an Ode to the humble pot roast

Pot roast:

The lowliest cut of beef turned into the most succulent comfort food. I mean, what says comfort more than pot-roast? Immediately thoughts turn to Sunday evening meals; family is near, there’s good conversation amidst the bickering (it is family after all) and always a decent bottle of wine.

Well as soon as I tasted these two wines I started thinking of pot-roast, and I hope the wineries take that as a compliment! For not all red wines under $20 can actually stand-up to the richness, the intense “beefiness” that is great, slow-cooked meat. These wines deliver concentration, balance and value… perfect for your Wintery-type braised dishes.

THE WINE

2010 Milton Park Shiraz

88+ points, Very Good Value

$14.99 www.BCLiquorStores.com

… deep, dark and inky in the glass – it even looks like a wine for beef! Rich aromas of stewed cherries and blackberries, some fresh thyme and rosemary with that background of cracked pepper that is signature Shiraz. Crisp, light acid and approachable, chewy tannin, the flavors in the wine are much in-line with the aromas and are rich enough to pair with dinner but fresh enough to appreciate a glass or two on their own.

*Shiraz: a note on Shiraz; it is the exact same varietal (grape) as Syrah… no difference at all! The only thing that is worthy of noting between the two is that in the past Syrah was considered the French style of winemaking (and so more restrained, less obvious fruit and more earth tones) and Shiraz was the Australian style meaning big bold fruit, higher alcohol. Well, the times have changed and in a recent meeting of the #WineTastingCircle of Vancouver, industry professionals couldn’t tell which was Australian, American, Canadian or Spanish Syrah/Shiraz. It’s not that there are no differences, but that wine-making has grown and evolved that much in the past 10 years. If you think that you don’t enjoy Australian Shiraz but enjoy full-bodied wines with great concentration, balance and structure then you owe it to yourself to “pony-up” the $15 and give this little gem a try.

Jumilla “Las Hermanas” organic Monastrell

89+ points, Excellent Value

$15.99 www.BCLiquorStores.com

… fresh, fruity, inviting: this is the wine you open as you’re cooking and hope that you have a second bottle for dinner! The aromas are plush with red cherries, currants and young plums and the palate has just enough acid to crave a bit of fatty food but, once again, balanced enough to appreciate thoroughly on its own. A solid wine, this is already on my Top 100 list for 2014~!

*Monastrell: not familiar with it? I find that this grape is very much like Merlot, which all of us can remember as fresh, fruit-driven flavors. This is a classic to serve at social events, but when well-made can offer concentration and structure to pair with classic Canadian winter dishes like pot-roast, tortierre and Shepard’s pie/Cottage pie. As per this particular producer, it’s small wonder that the European Portfolio Manager for the BC Liquor Board (one of Canada’s three Masters-of-Wine: Barbara Phillip) has named this as an “Insider Pick”. This would be a great value even if it wasn’t organic!

THE FOOD

Making beautiful food doesn’t have to be time consuming! And while I can admire the economy of throwing everything into one pot and turning it on, when plating that food it can look sometimes like a plate for the dog rather than the (fussy) kids.

This plate of pot-roast took relatively little extra time to prepare for dinner @ 5:30:

STEP 1:   2pm:      pot-roast in the oven @ 350F (about a 4lb roast)

STEP 2:   4:30:      baked potato and spaghetti squash in the oven

STEP 3:   5:00:      sauté the whole mushrooms on medium-high for 5 minutes, then in the oven

STEP 4:  5:20       steam the carrots 5 minutes, then throw the broccolini in, continue steaming 3 minutes

Kristof’s Pot Roast Recipe

1 fl oz     canola oil

1              yellow onion, finely sliced

6              cloves garlic, finely sliced

4 lb         pot roast

1 lb         green cabbage, rough chopped

½ bottle red wine

1 L           beef stock

½ tsp        each: fresh thyme and fresh rosemary

*salt and pepper to taste

• Start by sautéing the onions in the oil on medium until translucent
• Add the garlic and continue cooking until it’s turned a nutty brown
• Add the beef, sear on all sides. When it’s on it’s last sear then add the cabbage
• When the beef is finished searing, add the wine, then stock, then herbs
• DO NOT salt the dish until it’s finished cooking… as it reduces, the flavors will concentrate. If it tastes perfect at the start then by the end you run the risk of having salty food!
• Just before serving slice the roast on your cutting board and thicken the juice with cornstarch – excellent gravy! Don't forget to rest the roast on that cutting board for a good 15 minutes to ensure it stays moist!

So enjoy your pot-roast dinner with great wine and family or friends. Treat yourself, spoil someone else, and above all: savor the moment~! Many thanks to the Christopher Stewart Wine Agency, representatives in Canada, for the sample bottles. www.christopherstewartwineandspirits.com

As always, I look forward to your thoughts, comments and questions. Here, or:

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @ www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

Ron Barcelo "Imperial" Dominican rum

http://www.ronbarceloimperial.com/english.html

When I read that the BTI (Beverage Tasting Institute) of Chicago has rated a rum 97 points not once, but twice, then I take notice. You see, 97 points is the highest score they have ever given a rum.

So I do some digging, find out that they guys at Ron Barcelo have accumulated a succession of medals that would make any distiller dizzy with pride: 10 gold medals, a double-gold medal in Miami where it was also voted "Best in Class". The list goes on... pretty good legacy for the company that Julian Barceló started in 1929 when he emigrated to the Dominican Republic from Spain.

The company grew out of a vision of quality, quality, quality. So much so that even the locals ditched their hither-to favorite libations in deference to the Barcelo brand. Time passed and the natural progression of a company with strong vision and the support of the community: Barcelo rum became the most popular brand in the country! Impressive! But there's always room to grow, right?

In 1980, Miguel Barcelo (?grandson to Julian?) created the new icon: "Imperial" label. A testament to the family/company values, only the best would do and the company invested heavily in their infrastructure: from the sugarcane plantations to the molasses refinery to the labs to the aging cellar. Quality because more then a catch-phrase for the Ron Barcelo company (Barcelo Export Import S.R.L.), it became the Prime Directive.

The led to great accomplishments: the company earning the first ISO 9001:2000 Certification in the Dominican Republic spirit industry and the second in all of the Caribbean, international expansion to 10 countries in the 1990s,  the company winning a team of highly skilled, highly motivated Spanish rum professionals and by 2010 a distribution plan the extends to over 50 countries world-wide.

The massively accelerated growth can be directly linked to that 97-points I started talking about: it's the octane in the Barcelo fuel. But obviously grandson Miguel would never have been able to push such dramatic expansion without the leg-work of grandfather Julian. When a company starts with such a determined vision or goal then anything is possible.

My one challenge with the Barcelo company propaganda is that they state the "Imperial" is made in "limited quantities to maintain its mystique... its uniqueness". The Barcelo company is immense, employing many thousands of people, and exporting its own ocean of distillate to over 50 countries. To a country-lad such as myself, this doesn't seem much like "limited production". That being said, the spirit is quite good, so let's move straight to the tasting-notes:

"Imperial"

no age given: research shows from 6 to 10 years, but flexible depending on the year

91 points

$42+ CAD (Quebec)

$35+ US (Washington)

• TO THE EYE: a pretty rum, it shows so well in the glass with it's dark coppery hued amber tones
• ON THE NOSE: it displays rich, unique salt-water toffee, young pineapple and mild Szechuan pepper aromas
• ON THE PALATE: is where the score starts to dip for me: clean flavors of dark toffee, coffee and warm wood-tones are reminiscent of great Bourbon (positive) but some of the spirit in the blend is a tad juvenile/rough and clumsy and burns (negative). The structure is quite good, but not all of the flavors truly seem to marry together and this particular vintage seems to have some bits and pieces sticking out on their own. Well made but perhaps benefiting from further maturation.
• How to serve it? Too good as a blender with cola or fruit-punch, too much ice will also dampen the more subtle aromas and leave it somewhat mono-dimensional. I found that room temperature, with a splash of water allowed it to open more in the nose and left the palate in better balance.

So a good little sipping rum, from a company with a strong history of over-delivering. Just the type of company I like to support! This rum is a great gift for you celiacs out there who find yourselves missing a splash of Bourbon or Kentucky whiskey... similar flavors and will do in a pinch on your veranda one lazy afternoon. 

As always, I look forward to your thoughts, comments and questions. Here, or:

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

Cantinian Reserva Malbec - Cab Sauv

"Writing about wine doesn't pay very well, but you have to like the benefit package!"

   A writer who is like a mentor to me said that once, very early in my career, and it's stuck with me. What he failed to mention was the amount of work that this was going to be... who knew that writing about wine would take effort?

   A few days ago a colleague of mine from Patagonia imports (  http://www.patagoniaimports.com/our_wines.php ) dropped off a few sample bottles for me to taste and potentially write about. Well, who I am to refuse a friend?

    Then I opened the first bottle, a $27 Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Cantinian vineyards ( http://www.cantinian.com/ )... normally I would be super-charged! I love Malbec, absolutely one of my favorite varietals; I adore the big, juicy red and black fruit notes, the sullen earthiness is can carry and unabashed self-ness when crafted with care.

   I opened the bottle, mouth watering, and poured some into a big Bordeaux glass to allow it a chance to breathe properly before I began guzzling. The glass was sending heady aromas in the air before I even lifted it, and I admit to getting a touch dizzy from the perfume. Then I tasted it.

   What a disappointment.

   Thin, sharp, unbalanced acids were aggressive to say the least and the concentration of flavors couldn't match the puissance of the fine bouquet. Perhaps I just didn't let it breathe enough? So fine, I let the bottle sit open all night, praying that the voracious fruit-flies camped out in my kitchen left my prize alone. They seemed as appalled by the poor vintage as I was... I came back around midnight for a last-effort at redemption but ended up leaving the 95% remaining in the bottle open overnight, more in sorrow then in any effort at further aeration. I had given up, the wine just didn't live up to it's hype.

   Then about 24 hours later I sat down to try and write something redeemable about it, some edge... I searched the Internet, scoured my secret sources for tidbits and even re-read some old notes on wines from the area. A few colleagues were around so I asked them to try it and give me their thoughts...

workers at Cantinian

   "Not bad; good expression of terroir"

   "Brilliant bouquet, lovely bright acids"

    "racy little number, should pair well with some slightly fatty grilled meats"

   Eh? What's this? Are they talking about the same wine?

   I put my nose to the glass again; a plethora of Mendoza trademarks aromas burst forth (with more finesse then the night before). A host of dark red berries, warm earth and savory wood-tones with a light cinnamon-spice finish marched through my olfactory. 

   Trepidatiously I tasted the garnet colored liquid; supple body, brilliantly alive acids, crisp and well-punctuated berry tones... this was a completely different wine.

   What did I learn? Never judge a book by it's cover, or a wine by it's opening notes when it's first poured into the glass. John Schreiner ( http://johnschreiner.blogspot.ca/ ) will always be inspirational to me, not just because he knows more about British Columbia wine then anyone else, but because he is always willing to keep a bottle of wine open for 3-5 days, "just to see what happens".

   Well John, I've truly learnt the lesson. This blend from only minutes outside Mendoza city is brilliantly transparent. If you want to taste a textbook example of "Mendoza-ness", then look no further... just give it a chance to breathe!

2009 Cantinian Reserva Malbec - Cabernet Sauvignon

$27 in BC, SPEC product (only speciality stores)

90 Points

blend:   70% Malbec, 30% Cab-Sauv

harvesting:   manual

organic:   certified organic as of 2012 (this vintage is not certified)

vine age:   up to 90 years; original plantings in 1923, youngest no less then 30 years

soils:   mineral-rich silt and sand with saline deposits

altitude:   950 metres

maceration:   total 39 days; gravity-fed fermentation tanks

maturation:   18 months in new French and American oak

• visual:   clean; fully intense ruby core with slight cherry rim
• nose:   clean; medium+ developing aromas of ripe black strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, dark plums, dark floral notes, wood-tones like cedar,  warm earth, spicy cinnamon finish
• palate:   clean; dry, full (red currant) acids, medium+ (grippy) tannins, medium body, full alcohol (14.5% ABV) is quite hot, medium+ intense and developing flavors akin to the nose with more emphasis on red berry notes and a dark cocoa finish. Good balance and structure, good concentration
• conclusion:   released early, this wine will show best in a few years or with a double decant through your aerator. Enjoy 2014-2020 and best enjoyed with food
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   whilst true that the zippy acids need fat, and a grilled Merguez sausage with eggplant tagine would cosy up to this just fine.. . also consider a Chef Kristof classic: bacon, tomato and aged cheddar sandwich. It has the fat to balance acids, the smokiness to enhance the Argentinian terroir... a lovely way to celebrate the lunch-hour!

the vista at Cantinian

   And so I stand before you, a humbled man.

   I made a snap decision based on literally thousands of wine-tastings, and I was wrong. I actually had the same thing happen with a brilliant Sonoma Pinot Noir  about a year and a half ago, and the sommelier who was with me and I still laugh about it, because we both ended up falling in love with the wine by the end of the night. 

   Wines are living entities; they are born of earth and sweat and sometimes even of love and respect for the place they come from. They sleep in bottles for months, or years, or decades waiting for someone to find them and appreciate them for what they are. Wines have personalities, presence, even the promise of something more... because wine can transport us from one place to another, from one time to another. Wine can ease our burdens, it can lift our sorrows and celebrate our victories. Wine, when it's done well, is a celebration of life.

   You doubt? The proof my friends, is in the glass.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Abuelo Anejo 7anos rum, Panama

I love a good story... who doesn't? And what could be a better story then one of a stranger to a new land - defying the odds and making a success of himself?

   In 1908 a young man by the name of Don Jose Varela Blanco landed in the newly established Republic of Panama by way of Spain. He ended up in the small town of Pese (population approximately 10,000) and opened the first sugar plantation amid the lush sugarcane fields rampant in that central part of the country. He did what many people (including myself) dream of: he opened a business, ran it well and started a family.

   Fast forward almost 30 years and in 1936 Don Jose finally succumbed to the fervent wishes of his three sons (Jose Manuel, Plinio and Julio: los Hermanos Varela www.VarelaHermanos.com) and started the regions first sugarcane distillery.

   Sugarcane has a long history in the Americas... turns out that Christopher Columbus brought sugarcane on his return visit and it turned into a massive cash crop virtually wherever it went. Sugarcane became such a commodity that France even traded part of what it controlled in my dear old Canada to the British Empire for their islands of Guadeloupe, Martinique and St. Lucia~! 

   Well times change, and sugar became overproduced and less of a commodity. It all came to a head for such countries as Cuba when the former Soviet Union dissolved and Cuba's sugar production found itself without a market. So what does one do with sugarcane when no one wants sugar? Make alcohol young man...

   But alcohol isn't the only use... sugarcane actually gets used in non-alcoholic drinks, in food and candy, and nowadays in ethanol production. To wit - Brazil is the largest grower of sugarcane in the world and is also co-incidentally the largest producer of gasahol which is a blend of ethanol and gasoline.

   Back to Abuelo rum and Varela Hermanos S.A., who made a name for themselves by creating a premium sugarcane spirit where before it had been rough and clumsy. The company, in it's third generation as a family owned and run business, now produces over 1,000,000 boxes of spirit annually or over 90% of the nation's liquer.

   Now that's a good story.

Ron Abuelo Anejo 7-anos

$51 CAD (BC)   *** Good Value ***

maturation:   7 years in small white oak barrels

• visual:   clear; light coppery-gold throughout
• nose:   clean; fully intense spice with orange zest, light clove notes and dried summer and exotic flowers... rich background of aged honey and light butterscotch... molasses is felt keenly
• palate:   clean; taste is reminiscent of a fine Scotch: light oaky-vanilla opens the palate to dried apple, dried florals and the faint buzz of orange peel in the background... the finish is smooth with a hint of spice sparking the tongue and a rich, robust earthiness. A sipper, I found the flavors turned to nothing quickly with too much ice and I much prefer this as a quality Scotch: neat. If you must add ice, let it be one cube only.
• PAIRINGS:   the sweetness in rum usually lends itself to certain types of cigars, but because to me this drinks like a Scotch then it must be paired with other cigars. Suggestions anyone??

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Inniskillin Discovery Series Zinfandel, Okanagan Valley DVA

Zinfandel is one of the earliest recorded grape varietals for viticulture in the world... anthropologists have discovered evidence that places the first Zinfandel wines at approximately 6000 BC.

   Six millenia of winemaking using just one varietal would lead one to think that it must be an incredibly popular varietal. Why haven't you heard of it before? Well it all likelihood it's because Zinfandel wasn't always and isn't always called by that name. In the Puglia region of southern Italy it's known as Primitivo, and it Croatia (from whence it is believed to have originated) it is known by the impressive title Crljenak Kaštelanski. And that's just the main names; Zinfandel actually has over 20 synonyms many of which bear absolutely no resemblance to the original.

   So what's the story behind this grape? Well Zinfandel is thought to have been brought across to North America from Austria when the Austrian Empire held territory in Croatia (early 1800's). At that time, much American viticulture was centered around the Boston area (yes seriously) and done in greenhouses. And so began the American saga of the mighty Zin which went on to be planted to much success in California in the mid-1800's and then ripped out during the Prohibition Era of the 1920's and then replanted during the great growth period of Californian winemaking in the 1970's and 80's.

   But who would think it would grow well in British Columbia? A serious question, worthy of serious consideration and a serious answer: No One. That's right, no one. When winemaking truly began to flourish in British Columbia in the 1990's, and the growth of new wineries was so remarkable that even the mighty John Schriener (http://johnschreiner.blogspot.com/) is known to have said on more then one occasion "It's growing so fast that even I find it hard to keep up." At that point in BC's winemaking - no one believed that Zinfandel could truly be grown to any great success in this climate.

Bear Cub vineyard near Osoyoos, British Columbia

   No one should have told that to Inniskillin wineries *(www.Inniskillin.com) or their winemaker in the Okanagan Valley, Sandor Mayer. Vincor, which owns Inniskillin wineries, planted their first Zin vines at the Bear Cub vineyard near Osoyoos in 1999 and in 2002 they released their very first (small lot) vintage through their Discovery Series. The Discovery Series was started, in their words, with the express purpose of cultivating grape varietals not typically grown in the Okanagan. These releases are usually small in nature, and designed more to enlighten us to possibilities rather then a money-making scheme (in my eyes).

   Well, although this wine is much more in keeping with a cold-climate wine then the fully intense flavors I'm used to from California's Santa Clara Mountains AVA, or the Dry Creek AVA, it is full of nuanced flavors, structure and balance. This is certainly it's own rendition of a classic grape passed down to us from the dusty past, and one that I'm very glad Inniskillin wineries and Sandor Mayer have taken the time to - discover again.

2005 Inniskillin Okanagan "Discovery Series" Zinfandel
www.Inniskillin.com

$29 CAD    *** Very Good Value ***

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

vine age:         10 years

fermentation:   on the skins for 14 days

maturation:      11 months in 60% French and 40% American oak

production:     550 cases

• visual:   clear; fully intense garnet core with substantial cherry/brick rim
• nose:   clean; moderate+ intense and developed aromas of worn leather, dried blackberries and black raspberries, pink peppercorn and light Thai chili spice, some warm winery spice like baked cinnamon
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (red and black currant) acids, moderate (slightly green and grippy) tannins, moderate+ alcohol, moderate body, moderately intense and developed flavors that mimick well the nose with especially focus on the red and black currants, and soft cherry end notes. Very good balance and structure, medium- length
• conclusion:   if you have it - drink it now. The winemaker has stated that he believes this wine was best before 2010, but I find it still has some life left in it, just not for long. Lively acids, but the tannins are dying and the concentration is fading. Drink before the end of summer 2011
• PAIRINGS:   rich red wine for rich red meat. Consider any of your braised meat dishes like beef stroganoff as the cream will soften the acids and the fresh dill will bring a fading wine back to life

   Primitivo, Zinfandel, I don't think it much matters what you call it.... people around the world have been enjoying this wine for thousands of years, and now BC winemakers are starting to let the terroir here express itself in a new and exciting way; through a venerable and well deserving grape. Thanks again Inniskillin ~!

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Melange Noir, Mt. Boucherie estate winery

In a place where winemaking is a relatively new process, and most vineyards are keeping their history in years rather then decades or centuries, the Gidda family and Mt Boucherie estate winery are making their mark (http://www.mtboucheriewinery.com/) .

Mt Boucherie vineyard in West Kelowna

   1968 was the inaugural year that saw them growing grapes for winemaking and now, over 40 years later, brothers Nirmal and Kaldeep are continuing to grow the family passion to greater heights. Although their state-of-the-art facility for processing, fermenting and bottling wine is in West Kelowna, British Columbia, the family now has over 300 acres of vineyards in the West Kelowna area, Okanagan Falls and Similkameen Valley near the township of Cawston. All of their wines are made using 100% estate sourced grapes to ensure quality can be guarded as closely as possible.

location of Cawston, Similkameen Valley DVA

   Cawston has become a recently "hotbed" of viticulture activity and the Gidda family aren't the only ones sourcing new land there. Cawston has a population under 1000 and yet still has 2 fruit processing plants, the newer of which has been built solely for organic produce... the number of wineries and vineyard is growing by double digit percentages as well.

   And what are these new vineyards growing? Well in Westbank one of the grapes of choice is Michurinetz, which is an Eastern European varietal extremely well suited to cold climates; high in acid it is now blended successfully with a varietal like Merlot which will balance the acidity and give some plushness to the thin juice. Michurinetz is also capable of greatness when the vines reach maturity, but in their youth can produce wines that are thin and acerbic. Marechal Foch, a hybrid developed in the early 1900's, was named in honor of one of the French generals instrumental in the peace treaty ending the First World War. This varietal also is grown successfully in Westbank and the Similkameen owing to it's cold-weather hardiness and also lends a vibrant acidity to blends...

2005 Melange-Noir summit reserve, Mt. Boucherie estate winery

West Kelowna, Okanagan Valley DVA, British Columbia

http://www.mtboucheriewinery.com/

$22 CAD   *** Very Good Value ***

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

varietals:         100% estate grown Marechal Foch, Michurinetz, Merlot and Gamay Noir. 14% ABV

fermentation:   cold soak, then 7 days warm ferment

maturation:     19 months new and used French oak

• visual:   clear; fully intense purple-garnet with cherry-brick rim
• nose:   clean; fully intense and developed aromas of blackberries, dried saskatoons, dark cocoa, black florals, black cherries and cherry blossoms, black raspberry compote
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (red/black currant) acids, moderate (green, grippy) tannins, moderate+ alcohol, moderate body, moderately intense and developed flavors of red and black currant, raspberry compote, blackberries, old leather, red and black cherries. Good balance, very good structure, medium length
• conclusion:   drink now to 2013; will not develop further and is already losing concentration of flavor
• PAIRINGS:   vibrant acids want some fat; I would use this for it's Gamay Noir and pair with boeuf bourguignon because the cream will balance the acids and the dried red berry flavors and aromas will love some red meat - consider using venison is you're daring and I think it will pay off~!

view from Mt Boucherie winery deck

   An interesting blend from an established BC winery, this was a unique experience. Paired with the right food I believe this wine can truly sing, but I would really like to come back and try it again when the vines have had a chance to develop further.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Tabali Reserva Especial Pinot Noir, DO Limari Valley, Chile

250 kilometers north of Santiago lies the wine region known as the D.O. Limari Valley, home to the El Molle people.

Limari Valley, Chile

   A hardy people, it was this indigenous people who taught modern winemakers how to produce fine wines @ 30 degrees latitude south (the same latitude as Cairo): plant in the ravines where there is shade from the sun and residual moisture. The Limari river brings run-off from the northern glaciers, but the Limari Valley itself is bordered by the Atacama desert; the driest place on Earth. Not what one could consider as a "prime" location for growing grapes.

   And yet they do. Most of the plantings in this valley began in the late 1980's and early 1990's, and only recently has the Chilean wine industry started to realize the potential of this special place. One of the most important factors is the proximity to the Pacific Ocean, less then 30 km away and bringing fresh, moist, moderating breezes. Vina Tabali (http://www.tabali.com/) has recently pushed that boundary and has new planting only 13 km from the ocean, on steep terraced vineyards - something that excites their chief winemaker Phillipe Muller as he compares the terracing to the terrain of Bordeaux.

   As to whether Pinot Noir will ever rise to the great heights here that Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc have risen to in Bordeaux - only time will truly tell. Asides from the obvious climatic impact that occurs being at this latitude and being so close to a desert, there is also the impact of soil type: the Limari Valley is home to a rare soil for Chile. Due to tectonic activity, former seabeds have been risen and the soil here is dominated by fossils and shells, rich chalk deposits overlaying fractured limestone. In comparison to other parts of the world, one would expect it to be a natural pairing with Chardonnay and perhaps Chenin Blanc, and indeed, Chardonnay is a star in the region as is Syrah. Perhaps Pinot Noir may only be a curiosity in this region, but an incredibly interesting "take" on the heart-break grape and I'm very glad I had the opportunity to taste Vina Tabali's handiwork.

2009 Tabali Reserva Especial Pinot Noir

D.O. Limari Valley, Chile

13.5% ABV, $24 CAD  ** GOOD VALUE**

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

soil:   rich chalk deposits over fractured limestone with gravel and sand topsoil

work:   all work from picking to sorting is 100% manual

aging:   12 months in 100% French oak

• visual:   clean; light ruby-garnet core with slightly oxidized cherry rim
• nose:   clean; fully intense developed bouquet of wild herbs (lavander grows nearby), gamey meat, new leather, rare roast beef, white truffle mushroom notes, candied fennel seed, plum compote, slight peppery finish
• palate:   clean; dry, full red currant acids, moderate+ slightly green and grippy tannins, moderate alcohol, moderate- body, moderate+ intense developed flavors mimicking the nose with a substantial amount of tart red berries hitting the palate immediately - followed by deeper fungal, beefy, herbaceous notes. Very good balance and structure, medium (-) length
• conclusion:   wine is drinking well now to late 2012... concentration of flavor isn't enough that I would want to keep it past that. Will not develop further.
• PAIRINGS:   Serve this with your more subtle red meats... beef tenderloin is a classic, but if you don't want to spend that much money then consider a good cut of pork from a local supplier. Pork schnitzel with caramelized onions and fresh thyme would be great - the light fat in the pork with the moderate acids, the onions play off the fruit and the thyme will enhance the light herbaceous qualities

As always, I look forward to your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Las Perdices Cabernet Sauvignon, Lujan de Cuyo DOC, Argentina

There was once a joke in the wine industry that "It is the duty of all wines to be: red".

   Being a red wine drinker, I certainly have felt like that from time to time, but I am more inclined to follow the new adage that: "It is the duty of all wine to express terroir". Terroir: that inexplicably French term meaning the soil of a specific region, the wind, the quality of sunlight, the very energy of the people and how all of that translates into flavor of the grape.

   It is the duty of all wine to express where they are from; the land from whence it is grown, the tang of seasalt on the wind as it brushes the vineyards, the soft blanket of sunlight holding the grapes as they work their magic and transform from acidic berries to lush flavor bombs. It is the duty of wine to tell a tale of the people who worked the vineyards and toiled through the fermentation and maturation process. It's alot to ask from a bottle of wine, but is it too much to ask?

   In the early 1950's, Juan Munoz Lopez left Spain to begin a new life in Argentina. As I've said many times before (and will no doubt say many times again) I have nothing but the utmost respect for anyone who forges out on their own and begins their own something. Build a winery, open a car-repair shop, start a cupcake business - I think you are absolutely brave.

   I imagine it must have been difficult for Juan leaving friends and family and moving to the other side of the world. He must have felt quite alone as he walked through the fields of his new vineyard, his new life, and was trying to decide whether or not he had made "the right move". When along comes a partridge...

   Sounds like the opening line of a joke right? But no, seriously, Juan was walking the vineyards and was genuinely surprised by the number of wild partridges on his property. He asked his neighbours and they said that the partridges had always been there, and so the wild birds became constant companions on Juan's walks through the vineyards. It's easy to understand, then, how the vineyard became "Las Perdices" (The Partridges) rather then Domaine Juan Lopez... after all, hadn't the partridges been there first?

equipment at Las Perdices

   Juan's two sons now run the winery, and are developing a portfolio with international standing and respect. They have developed their skills and infrastructure to be able to allow the nuances of the grape to show through - even though their production has now reached a capacity of 900,000 Litres. They still use manual labor to pick the grapes, the grapes go through a sorting process not once, but twice, and the winery has invested in French and American oak barrels of the highest quality.

   It says alot, about this family's beliefs in quality above quantity, and striving every day to allow their wines to express themselves as completely as possible.

Las Perdices 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon

(the town of) Agrelo, Lujan de Cuyo DOC, Mendoza, Argentina

http://www.lasperdices.com/

14.5% ABV, $18 CAD  
90+ points, **Good Value**

ALTITUDE         1,030 meters above sea level

SOIL                    Alluvial origin, loam-lime, medium depth, supported by a layer of gravel.
MATURATION   aged for 6 months in French and American oak (new and used)

• visual:   clean; deep plum-garnet core with slight cherry rim (little brick)
• nose:   clean; moderate+ intense youthful aromas of red raspberries, red cherries, old leather, light vanilla, rich floral notes, black pepper on the end
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (red currant) acids, moderate+ (slightly chalky and grippy) tannins, moderate+ alcohol, moderate body, moderately intense and youthful flavors of red raspberries and cherries, red currants, old leather, light notes of rich earth, slightly blackcurrant (cassis) finish. Very good balance and structure, medium length on palate
• conclusion:   Good value for the money, this wine will hold in the cellar to 2013 certainly. It's a well balanced wine but doesn't have alot of personal expression in it - still - much more then one would find for the same price from other regions
• PAIRINGS:   Good Cab-Sauv calls for good beef - try this with your roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, pot roast with crispy parsnips, or even just a well made burger~!

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Penfolds Koonunga Hill, Shiraz Cabernet

Dr. Christopher Penfold was a man who believed in the medicinal value of wine, especially fortified wine. I can relate to the story because my own father, Dr. Astudentofwine, also is a believer.

     Did you know that red wine is the most absorbable source of iron for humans? Well it is... spinach has iron you say? What about Popeye? Well unless you happen to be related to a rabbit or a cow (I not saying you are), you just don't have the proper enzymes in your stomach to breakdown that particular type of iron. Red wine however...

     And so the story goes that when Dr Penfold, youngest of 11 children, moved to Australia (the edge of the world in 1844), he brought with him not only a wife (rare commodity in Australia) but vine stock! He was going to make wine and heal the masses.

     Praise Jesus and pass the bottle I say! I find myself getting healthier by the moment!

     Dr Penfold settled just outside of present-day Adelaide, and even though the area has been called a "Super-Zone" for wine production, it remains to this day as the only winery located within the Adelaide city limits. It is a small vineyard by Australian standards, about 13 acres, and grows mostly Shiraz (Syrah).

     In time Penfolds grew, as all good things do, and began other vineyards around the Barossa Valley and South Australia in general. One of the places they found was Koonunga Hill in the Barossa Valley. Koonunga Hill isn't an easy Google search, let me tell you! Hit after hit for the wine, but it's murder to try and find the actual area... http://www.findawinery.com/ has some information, though it is limited.

     Called "One of Australia's best kept secrets", it is no secret to the fine folks at Penfolds. Penfolds Shiraz Cabernet is deliberately labeled as "South Australia" rather then being labeled as coming from somewhere within that immense region. "Why?" one may ask. It gives a certain freedom to the winemaker, you see. Every year, the winemaker can choose from the very best crops that all of South Australia has to offer. Good enough reason, but also one needs to accept that whilst wine-geeks may know what the Barossa Valley is, the average consumer may not. Why then confuse a consumer already overwhelmed with new choices every time they go to buy a bottle of wine?

     I think for such a low price-point, Penfolds knows exactly how they want to market it, and who they want to market it to... it's for the consumer who is looking for "Australian" flavors, by which they generally mean big jammy fruit berry flavors, strong alcohol and a rich body. In this, Penfolds most certainly succeeds.

2006 Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz-Cabernet

South Australia region

$9 CAD (375ml) $16 CAD (750ml)   **Good Value**

http://www.bcliquorstores.com/

• visual:   clean; deep garnet core with slightest cherry rim
• nose:   clean; moderate+ intense youthful aromas; cherry, blackberry jam, light spiciness, sweet blueberries in the background (possible McLaren Vale sourcing), layered black floral of irises, black rose
• palate:   clean, dry, full (black currant/cassis) acids, moderate+ (slightly chewy) tannins, moderate+ ABV, moderate+ body, moderate+ to fully intense youthful flavors mimicking the nose; cassis is strong from start to finish, oaking is minimal. Good balance, very good structure, moderate length
• conclusion:   Definately overdelivers for an Australian wine in this price range... drink now to 2013/2014 but will not develop in bottle
• PAIRINGS:   A simple wine calls for simple pleasures: I had mine with some grilled bread, pate and cheese. Would also make a bacon and cheddar sandwich sing! The acids can use a little fat (pate or bacon), the sharp cheddar would actually acentuate the spice of the Shiraz and a little tomato would bring out some of the natural tomato-earthy characteristics that are somewhat hidden

     While Penfolds wine may not be the same as it was in 1844 when the daring young doctor brought himself, his wife and their vine clippings across the ocean, it is still worth a visit. Always well constructed, I can honestly say that I've never had a bad bottle... it is reasonably balanced, has decent structure, and some interesting flavors of South Australia. Really, what else could anyone want for $9/375 ml and $17/bottle?

As always, I welcome your comments.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Value Priced Cigars, ARGYLE

Ever want a deal? Of course you do - and so do I. I look for deals all the time; on wine, on food and of course on cigars.

     But. But I am also a firm believer that one gets what one pays for. A $10 bottle of wine will never surpass in quality what one buys for $100, even if the $10 bottle is better value for the money. Ah the duality of human nature, right? And so it was with some initial reluctance that I purchased 20 cigars online for about $30 CAD from http://www.holts.com/ in the USA.

     Well my daring has paid off, at least in part. I found myself with 20 cigars that I feel more then comfortable giving out as gifts to friends and colleagues, and yet have enough flavor that I am enjoying them on my drive home, or a walk through one of our local parks. Christmas is a wonderful time to take in a brisk walk with your friends and loved ones, especially if you live in a place as truly spectacular as I do.

     So what did I learn? For $30 they could have been a waste of money, but I still would have given them to my 20-something year old brothers and then "presto" not a waste of money at all. Never be completely steered by price - there are values out there in wine, food and cigars just waiting to be found.

Argyle cigar, Dominican Republic

Churchill,         $2/cigar    **Good Value**

Strength: Mild

Wrapper: Connecticut
Binder: Dominican
Filler: Dominican

• visual:     no obvious flaws in the construction, smooth wrapper, burns fairly evenly, very light ash so try not to smoke it in the wind or you may be covered by the time you get home
• nose:     light intensity; not much development or layering of aromas; some vanilla, coffee, cream, leather
• palate:   light intensity; palate mimicks nose
• conclusion:   these cigars are rolled by the youngest rollers on the line... very hit-or-miss for quality. I've has two in two days and the first was quite bitter for the first 1/4 and then was just a rough flavor. It made me want to sit in front of a campfire and drink some Jack Daniels (and not the good stuff). The second was much smoother - much more even construction - burnt evenly down to the nub and had virtually no bitterness. A lovely inexpensive cigar that smoked well above it's price!

Macon white wines

Oh what a web we weave, when at first we start studying wine... a new wine and a new region for me, at least, so I thought. Maconnais, Burgundy produces the most prolific white wines in France. 42 villages all producing excellent table wines; and some of them I already know! Such as.... Pouilly Fuisse; a 100% Chardonnay barrel aged for one year then aged in bottle for another two years. I like me the Pouilly Fuisse!

     So when I walked into my local speciality BCLDB and the product consultant there told me I should try some Macon with our dinner of pasta carbonara, I thought: "Ok. He's a pretty savvy wine-guy."

Vendanges 2006 Terra Incognita

Macon Villages, 13%, $24 **good value**

• 
  
  fully intense buttery oak on the nose, candied banana, pineapple, a floral like daffodils or maybe peonies
• 
  
  moderate acids, moderate+ body, moderate+ intense flavors of meyer lemon, pineapple tartness, orchard fruit
• 
  
  so a decent little wine... much better value in London @ about $15 (CAN). It's a table wine, and a good one at that. The nose doesn't match the palate, which is a shame, but it shows good structure and fine balance - a worthwhile contender for summer afternoons on the deck

2006 Macon-Villages Chardonnay

by Georges DuBoeuf, 12.5%, $16 **EXCELLENT VALUE**

• 
  
  fully intense bouquet; dandelions & summer flowers, Anjou pears, golden apples, more buttery oakiness, soft-rich-meyer lemon forever
• 
  
  moderate acids (start very soft and develop on the palate), moderate flavors that duplicate the nose. Are you reading this DJ? **grin** Excellent craftsmanship
• 
  
  wonderful wine. Perhaps the palate isn't as developed as one would want, but in an under $20 wine I find it brilliant value. Long structure becomes a tad bitter at the end... try this wine with your afternoon brie & baguette. Some apricot compote will bring more richness from the wine.

     And so ends a small tasting of the wines of Macconais. With value like this, I'm looking forward to the next tasting!

Rogue WetBar Opens!

So tonight was the opening of a new watering hole: Rogue Wetbar. Situated in arguably the most central location of Vancouver, it's a classy joint in a classy building.














These guys were finishing up just as we walked in the door. Wow - I've been through opening days before and it's nerve-wracking. Hats off to them though, they pulled it off and apparently without a hitch.












Incredibly friendly staff - very attentive. There was a line-up for the 5:00pm opening and it seems as though the rebranding is going to be a success if the attention of the locals is anything to judge by.

Brilliant room! Lots of light, exposed brick - lots of kitch, bling, pattern, color. This is a room designed (IMHO) to be fun! There are lots of floor-to-ceiling "drapes" the give the illusion of privacy at tables... even the pitcher cocktails I saw at the next table looked nicer then the $14 pricetag would inspire one to believe.












One of the coolest menus I've ever seen, bar none. I am truly impressed. Brilliant design whoever came up with that one.

Neat looking food, but I was a bit let down when I found out that there was nothing I could eat from the appetizers except for nachos (Celiac UnFriendly). I couldn't even eat the fries... too bad - they have a fry trio for $8 with (a) gorgonzola & bacon cream, (b) traditional poutine & (c) truffle oil & parmesan cheese. Oh My.

Did I mention they have 20 beers & ales on tap? And not Coors but micro-brews the lot of them... oh to be an Irishman in Rogue Wetbar.

I'm a winedrinker these days though, and so was happy to see 3-3fl oz samplers for a great price. Imagine my surprise when there was no price on the menu! Ah well, a small error I hope will me amended. (My 3 wine sampler was $16)




WINE A
Veramonte "Riserva" Chardonnay, Casablanca Valle, Chile

• moderate intense nose of bright, fresh, buttery melon with minerality and pears
• moderate++ acids, balanced by moderately intense flavors of melon, crabapple, lemon and lime
• a moderate+ body with strong alcohol, these rich flavors need great food like melted brie! Raclette anyone?

WINE B

Quail's Gate Gamay Rose, West Kelowna, BC **Try this wine ASAP**

• fully intense bouquet of strawberries, rhubarb, blackberry & rich summer flowers
• moderate++ acids are quite crisp but not overwhelming. moderately intense flavors match the nose perfectly. Excellent craftsmanship.
• light body - I would choose to drink this wine on it's own in the summer heat, or pair it with subtle foods such as chevre, cold poached prawns or a duck galentine

WINE C

Vina Maipo Carmenere-Cabernet Sauvignon, Valle Central, Chile

• a moderately intense nose that needed some coaxing, but opened to plums, blackberry, chalky soil, mild leather and tobacco
• moderate(+) acids balanced barely by moderate tannins (quite smooth from the price). Full flavors of strawberry, saskatoon, plums with a touch of jalapeno spice
• I found the acids a bit over-the-top, and would only serve it with food. Try with the biggest, baddest, fattest burger you can get - almost like Rogue planned this?