VistAlba Corte C by Carlos Pulenta, Mendoza, Argentina

I've written about the Lujan de Coyo DOC of Mendoza, Argentina before... but am growing to learn more about this diverse area (as any good student should do).

   I should start by saying that the province of Mendoza is a vast wine region. By comparison the province of British Columbia in Canada has approximately 210 wineries, yet Mendoza has over 1100. Yes, that's right: 1100 wineries producing more then 1 billion litres of wine; 70% of the total production of Argentina.

  Wow.

courtesy Wikipedia: Lujan de Cuyo

   Nestled in the north-west corner of Mendoza, situated against the mighty Cordón de Plata mountain range (and thus- Chile) is Lujan de Coyo DOC. I for one am glad that Mendoza/Argentina is smart enough to divide their intricate and infinite wine-region... it certainly makes my studies easier and more efficient, though I doubt they thought of me when they emulated the regional structure of France and the AOC system.

   In Luyan de Coyo is an even smaller sub-region called VistAlba, and in this region a noted Argentian winemaker named Carlos Pulenta has set-up shop. Carlos' family has been involved in the wine industry here in Mendoza for generations, and Carlos himself was the former president and CEO of Salentein (a Dutch company with 3 bodegas). His recently constructed winery is constructed largely of marble, slate, inert concrete and dark woods and has received many favorable write-ups on it's architecture. Pulenta owns 53 hectares of red grapes around the winery, 80% of which is malbec planted in 1948 and the rest being more recent plantings of more Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bonarda.

2008 VistAlba Corte C

Bodega VistAlba by Carlos Pulenta

15.1% ABV

$19 CAD  (BC) *** Very Good Value ***

varietals:   78% Malbec, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Bonarda

maturation:   12 months in 20% new French oak (medium toast), 6 months in bottle at winery

• visual:   clear; fully intense deep purple core with slightest cherry/brick rim
• nose:    clean; fully intense and developing aromas of worn leather, drying black berries (currants, raspberries), lifted red berries (raspberries, cherries, strawberry), slight menthol-savory herb, soft dark floral
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ (red currant) acids, medium+ to full (chalky and slightly green-grippy) tannins, medium+ body, medium+ to fully intense developing flavors that mimick the nose with emphasis on cocoa and dark berries. Very good to excellent balance, very good structure, long- length
• conclusion: 2008 is showing well, but would benefit from further aging. Drink 2013-2018
• PAIRINGS:   much like any Malbec blend, I would pair this wine with grilled red meat. Keep it simple to allow the rich aromatics of the wine to showcase, but use some fat to balance the relatively high acidity. Grilled ribeye steak with smoked seasalt and wild thyme butter

And so Carlos has returned to the family land and built himself something to be proud of. Not only a beautiful winery, with a 12-room inn and one of (if not the) most respected restaurants in the region: La Bourgogne. No, Carlos Pulenta and family haven't built a winery, they've created an experience.

As always, I look forward to hearing your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

_________________________________________________________________

2009 VistAlba Corte "C"

 $20, 89 points

varietals:   80% Malbec, 20% Cabernet-Sauvignon 

• visual:   clear; bright moderate ruby core with slightest cherry rim
• nose:   clean; medium+ intense and youthful aromas of fresh red raspberries, cherries, currants, savory wood tones, old leather, light tones of pine resin and graphite
• palate:   clean; dry, full (red currant) acids, moderate+ (green/grippy) tannins, moderate body, moderate+ alcohol (14.5%ABV), moderate+ intense and youthful flavors that mimick the nose with emphasis on bright red berries up front, some intriguing cedar/pine/leather mid-palate and a finish strong on red berries and earth. Good balance and structure, medium length
• conclusion:   this cheeky little bugger is a diamond-in-the-rough waiting for someone to open it and decant twice before serving... a touch young, this will also reward patient cellaring. Best 2014-2018/2020

 

   Once again, a prime example of not judging to quickly, too harshly: never be afraid to let your wines sit open for a day or two or even three before deciding that they "just aren't any good". 

 

   There can be a number of reasons that a wine doesn't show well right away when you open it; bottle-shock, the wine can be too young, it may have suffered from travel, it may be going through an evolution (yes indeed, wines evolve sometimes more then once in the bottle)... never, ever be afraid to put the cork back in the bottle and try it again the next day. You may be pleasantly surprised by what happens!

 

   And the proof of this? As always, in the glass my friends.

 

As always, I look forward to your comments and questions.

 

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Durigutti Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina

Mendoza, Argentina is a desert... it's an extreme continental climate with earth-scorching hot summer days and winds that blow the dry soil to the four winds.

   In Lujan de Coyo DOC, an area within Mendoza, some would say that the most important aspect to their winemaking is not then the terroir, but rather the viticulturist. It is the decision on training, irrigation and canopy management... to the extent that I have hear winemakers talk about the difference in only a few degrees of aspect (the slope of the vineyard) as they calculate down to the minute just how much extra sunlight that few degrees will allow. These winemakers know their land, and they know how to make a rather harsh environment work for them. They know how to work with their land.

   Such is certainly the case with Hector Durigutti, who has spent more then 20 years in the industry, working his way around the world as a consultant. Now he and his brother Pablo have created a world class establishment in what some people would argue is some of the finest winemaking land in Mendoza: Familia Durigutti (www.durigutti.com )

   Hector and Pablo state in their website that their overriding philosophy is that of "young eonologists involved in the joy of incorporating modern variants to the elaboration of wine". I cannot pretend to fully understand what that means, but I can definitely pick out a few key words: joy. Anytime I hear a winemaker talk about their joy, I know that I'm probably in for a treat. I genuinely believe that anyone who works hard at what they do, and do it with real joy, will be successful.

    But don't take my word for it~! Success has already come for the Durigutti brothers as Hector was awarded the oenology award by the Association of Argentinian Sommeliers in June 2009. Wine Spectator (www.WineSpectator.com ) has listed several Durigutti vintages in their top 100 wines, including this 2008 Malbec as #74 and with 90 points. I unfortunately don't have this available in British Columbia, but in the USA this is running $15 USD per bottle and under - a Stunning Value.

2008 Durigutti Malbec

Agrelo, Lugan de Coyo DOC, Mendoza Province, Argentina

www.durigutti.com

$15 USD (most states),    **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

N/A in BC, available in limited quantities in Alberta

• visual:   clean; fully intense black-garnet core with slightest cherry rim
• nose:   clean; moderate+ to fully intense youthful aromas of red cherry, cherry blossom, red raspberry, light red currant, star anise (some will say asian spice) - almost licorice root, some light yet pungent dark florals like irises/dark rose
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ red cherry acids(slightly exuberant), moderate+ slightly chewy tannins, moderate+ alcohol, moderate+ (supple) body, moderate+ to fully intense youthful flavors mimicking the nose with emphasis on the cherry notes, fig compote and leathery end palate. Very good to excellent balance, excellent structure, medium+ length
• conclusion:   drinking well now - I would still cellar for best results. Drink 2012-2015/18. Very good concentration of flavors and rich tannins well integrated
• PAIRINGS:   great Malbec calls for great steak - a bit of acid in this wine so use steak with some fat or else finish with butter. The rich berry notes will play well off venison, as will the asian spice~!

Hector and Pablo Durigutti

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!    SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Las Perdices Cabernet Sauvignon, Lujan de Cuyo DOC, Argentina

There was once a joke in the wine industry that "It is the duty of all wines to be: red".

   Being a red wine drinker, I certainly have felt like that from time to time, but I am more inclined to follow the new adage that: "It is the duty of all wine to express terroir". Terroir: that inexplicably French term meaning the soil of a specific region, the wind, the quality of sunlight, the very energy of the people and how all of that translates into flavor of the grape.

   It is the duty of all wine to express where they are from; the land from whence it is grown, the tang of seasalt on the wind as it brushes the vineyards, the soft blanket of sunlight holding the grapes as they work their magic and transform from acidic berries to lush flavor bombs. It is the duty of wine to tell a tale of the people who worked the vineyards and toiled through the fermentation and maturation process. It's alot to ask from a bottle of wine, but is it too much to ask?

   In the early 1950's, Juan Munoz Lopez left Spain to begin a new life in Argentina. As I've said many times before (and will no doubt say many times again) I have nothing but the utmost respect for anyone who forges out on their own and begins their own something. Build a winery, open a car-repair shop, start a cupcake business - I think you are absolutely brave.

   I imagine it must have been difficult for Juan leaving friends and family and moving to the other side of the world. He must have felt quite alone as he walked through the fields of his new vineyard, his new life, and was trying to decide whether or not he had made "the right move". When along comes a partridge...

   Sounds like the opening line of a joke right? But no, seriously, Juan was walking the vineyards and was genuinely surprised by the number of wild partridges on his property. He asked his neighbours and they said that the partridges had always been there, and so the wild birds became constant companions on Juan's walks through the vineyards. It's easy to understand, then, how the vineyard became "Las Perdices" (The Partridges) rather then Domaine Juan Lopez... after all, hadn't the partridges been there first?

equipment at Las Perdices

   Juan's two sons now run the winery, and are developing a portfolio with international standing and respect. They have developed their skills and infrastructure to be able to allow the nuances of the grape to show through - even though their production has now reached a capacity of 900,000 Litres. They still use manual labor to pick the grapes, the grapes go through a sorting process not once, but twice, and the winery has invested in French and American oak barrels of the highest quality.

   It says alot, about this family's beliefs in quality above quantity, and striving every day to allow their wines to express themselves as completely as possible.

Las Perdices 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon

(the town of) Agrelo, Lujan de Cuyo DOC, Mendoza, Argentina

http://www.lasperdices.com/

14.5% ABV, $18 CAD  
90+ points, **Good Value**

ALTITUDE         1,030 meters above sea level

SOIL                    Alluvial origin, loam-lime, medium depth, supported by a layer of gravel.
MATURATION   aged for 6 months in French and American oak (new and used)

• visual:   clean; deep plum-garnet core with slight cherry rim (little brick)
• nose:   clean; moderate+ intense youthful aromas of red raspberries, red cherries, old leather, light vanilla, rich floral notes, black pepper on the end
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (red currant) acids, moderate+ (slightly chalky and grippy) tannins, moderate+ alcohol, moderate body, moderately intense and youthful flavors of red raspberries and cherries, red currants, old leather, light notes of rich earth, slightly blackcurrant (cassis) finish. Very good balance and structure, medium length on palate
• conclusion:   Good value for the money, this wine will hold in the cellar to 2013 certainly. It's a well balanced wine but doesn't have alot of personal expression in it - still - much more then one would find for the same price from other regions
• PAIRINGS:   Good Cab-Sauv calls for good beef - try this with your roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, pot roast with crispy parsnips, or even just a well made burger~!

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!