Three Saints Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley, California

I'm at that point in my life where hard-work and dedication are goals everyday: every time I read about someone who dared to break off on their own and build something that was theirs I am reminded that the only thing standing between myself and my success is me.

   I'm in awe of people who seem to instinctually know this and live their lives accordingly; they dream of something and they make it happen. Kudos to people like you. You are inspirational.

Three Saints, Santa Ynez

   Jim Dierberg is one of those inspirational people. Jim was born in a small town in Missouri and after college went to work at the local bank. The local bank went out of control and turned into a chain of 150 units across several states and Jim's salary increased accordingly, and so Jim did what every kid in Missouri dreams of (joking); he opened a winery.

   Not content with just the Hermannhof winery, which became one of the best known wineries in the state... Jim and his wife Mary began scouring California for their new home and adventure. They ended up in the Santa Barbara AVA and why they chose to settle there I can well understand. Santa Barbara is comfortable; rolling hills meet the ocean and un-ending beaches... there's great farmland, cattle raising (*especially lamb), fishing. In fact, one of the only things I don't like about Santa Barbara is that there is a county-wide $2000 fine for smoking on the beach. Fairly draconian measures in my mind - but then again - I smoke cigars, don't I?

   So Jim and Mary found Santa Barbara County appellation in the inland corner known as Santa Ynez Valley and there they started the Three Saints Vineyard (www.ThreeSaintsVineyard.com ). Many winemakers will argue that the area along the coastline is more prestigious,  as it gets a heavy amount of fog and is eminently suitable to the growing of Pinot Noir. Santa Ynez however retains it's heat, and when Jim and Mary wanted to work with Southern Rhone varietals - they know they had the right spot.

   The wineries' website gives the fullest explanation of their individual terroirs and I fear I wouldn't do them justice by plagiarizing and so I'll say: visit the website. It's a brief read full of useful information. One thing I don't think they give enough attention to is the vast amount of work that is done by hand in the vineyards. There are a staggering number of wineries in California who automate their viticulture work in order to reduce costs and (theoretically) increase quality... in some instances I've seen quality increase. Some.

2007 Three Saints Syrah

$20    **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

time on skins:   20 days

aging:      15 months in neutral oak; 2 months on-the-lees

fining/filtration:   light fining/ light filtration

production:   650 cases

• visual:   clear; dark inky-purple core with slight cherry rim (light bricking)
• nose:   clean; fully intense and developing aromas of bright red cherry, red raspberry, light cassis, blackberry and huge blueberry notes, savory baked earth
• palate:   clean; moderate (red currant) acids, moderate+ (chalky, silty) tannins, moderate+ body, moderate+ alcohol (14.2% ABV), moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose with nuances of leather, red meat, hints of dark coffee. Very good balance and structure, long length
• conclusion:   drink now to 2014, will not develop further in bottle
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   all of the berry notes and the bright, vibrant acidity make me want to pair this with duck~! Consider a Chinese 5-spice crispy skin duck breast on wild rice latkes with steamed Swiss chard...

 2007 Three Saints "Steakhouse Red"

 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Malbec, 18% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Franc

$23     **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

• visual:   clear; moderate+ to fully intense garnet core with substantial cherry/brick rim
• nose:   clean; moderate intense and developing aromas of baked earth, casis, red and black raspberry, worn leather, light savory herbs, a little spice on the finish (a good Bordeaux blend)
• palate:   clean; moderately intense red currant/cassis acids, moderate+ (chalky/silty) tannins, moderate body, moderate+ alcohol (14.7% ABV), moderately intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose with the richness of the berries and the earth showcasing. Very good to excellent balance, excellent structure and long length.
• conclusion:   drinking very well now and until 2014/15. Will not improve with further aging.
• FOOD PAIRINGS:  I wouldn't expect this with a $23 Bordeaux blend, but this has the balanced acids and finesse in it's structure to pair with beef tenderloin. Consider  butter poached venison tenderloin "al rossini" with shaved black truffle on foie gras, potato rosti and apple puree

the view at Santa Ynez

   A great showing of reasonably priced wines. I look forward to sampling more of their products in the near future~!

As always, I look forward to your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Thelema Mountain Vineyards Merlot

So I heard a story recently about an award-winning winemaker from South Africa who used to be a chartered accountant...

I waited patiently for the punchline.

There isn't one. It's a true story and Gyles Webb from Thelema Mountain Vineyards (www.Thelema.co.za) really used to be an accountant, but more then that he was (and is) a man with a passion: excellence in wine.

Thelema vineyards (arial view)

   Gyles and his wife Barbara had dreamt of finding themselves the right spot in Stellenbosch to make the wine they knew they could make. It was a long search, but an abandoned fruit farm of approximately 157 ha became their new home. The farm had been long abandoned, and though grapes had once been grown there - there were none when the Webbs moved onto the property.

   The amount of work that went into developing the land from fruit orchard to working winery was staggering and the Webbs aren't done yet~! In 2000 Thelema bought a 45 ha apple orchard in the Elgin Valley and began to convert it to cool-climate varietals such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.

Thelema vineyards (tasting room)

   But it was the 2006 Merlot that really caught my attention; deep, dark and delicious it's a uniquely rich version of the grape. Merlot of course is capable of many faces; from a soft and fruit-driven single varietal to a blend with Cabernet Sauvignon to a fully tannic and an intense dark berry and chocolate flavor profile. This showing from Thelema would certainly fall under the latter category and is brilliantly executed.

2006 Thelema Mountain Vineyards Merlot

$36    **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

 http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

altitude:    approximately 500 m

soil:          Hutton: high proportion of decomposed granite

vines:        planted 1988

maturation:   20 months oak (40% new)

• visual:   clear; fully intense bruised plum core with slightest cherry/brick rim
• nose:   clean; moderate+ intense and developed aromas of blackberry, black cassis, black raspberry, light savory herbs and eucalyptus notes
• palate: clean, dry, moderately intense (red and black currant) acids, moderate+ (soft, smooth, silty) tannins, moderate+ body, moderate+ alcohol (14.5%), moderate+ intense and developed flavors similar to the nose with a distinct peppery finish. Very good to excellent balance and structure with long length
• conclusion:  I agree with the winemaker's notes that this wine is peaking now and should be enjoyed over the next 24 months. Will not improve with further aging.
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   a soft and smooth red wine with rich tannin structure screams red meat to me... I was thinking butter poached beef tenderloin with wild thyme roast BC mushrooms and crispy parnip chips but hey, that's just my style :)

  

 I like hearing stories that end on a positive note; an accountant and his wife have a burning passion for wine. They search for their place in the world and work their a$$es off to make the land work and work with the land. Many of you know that I have a new light in my life; Clare Elizabeth (the LittlestStudentofWine). I understand the value of hard work and have a new-found comprehension  for how and why people are willing to dedicate themselves to building something bigger then themselves.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Moon Curser, Border Vines "Bordeaux Blend", BC

Bordeaux blends; a wine by any other name would smell as sweet? Well call the wine a Bordeaux blend, a "Meritage", "Mirage", "Occulus" or "Border Vines"... we're all talking about the same thing (more or less).

   Bordeaux (France) is a winemaking region with a long history of craftsmanship going back to the 2nd century and the Romans. Today the region is perhaps best known for it's blended wines (which comprise more then 80% of all it's production). The red wines, which I'm focusing on today, are divided into two broad categories (which sommeliers will divide further): Right Bank and Left Bank.

   Right Bank blends are generally more supple, drink younger, and can be enjoyed on their own or with food. These blends are always driven by a large portion of Merlot which will be 70% of the blend or more, with a smattering of Cabernet Franc and perhaps a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon.

 

 

   Left Bank blends are primarily Cabernet Sauvignon driven blends, also with Merlot and Cabernet Franc, but also Petit Verdot and Malbec. These are the "Bordeaux Blends" that are most common in British Columbia, especially the Okanagan Valley DVA. An almost obscure varietal;  Carménère has been virtually fazed out of the vineyards of Bordeaux and has taken root (forgive the pun) in the Central Valley of Chile to great success.

   And then along comes a Moon Curser. A what? A winery from the Okanagan Valley (www.MoonCurser.com ) which started as Twisted Tree in 2005 and went through a true  renaissance in 2010; it was reborn. The winery's parents Beata and Chris Tolley, who emigrated to our fair valley from the other side of the Rocky Mountains in Calgary, hired Vancouver designer and brand-specialist extraordinaire Bernie Hadley-Beauregard who's pedigree is as impressive as his multi-syllable name (just joking - some of the finest BC wineries to open or re-open in recent years including Blasted Church Vineyards, Dirty Laundry Winery, 8th Generation Winery and more have hired his expertise).

   And what does Moon Curser have that warrants all this conversation?

the view from Moon Curser

   A true Bordeaux blend, the Border Vines:  Cabernet Sauvignon (29%), Carmenere (23%), Malbec (23%), Merlot (20%), Cabernet Franc (4%) and Petit Verdot (1%). The wine is grown in five Osoyoos East Bench vineyards, all within tractor-driving distance from one another.

   We here in BC have many wineries producing Bordeaux blends, yet this is the only one including the rare Carménère . And why would this be? Carménère simply requires a longer summer season for ripening then most wineries have, with the exception of those at the southern end of the province at the northern tip of the Sonoran Desert: Moon Curser (with a few other notable exceptions).

2009 Border Vines bordeaux blend

$25 at the winery

$27 http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/   **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

• visual:   clear; fully intense royal purple or slightly inky core with slightest cherry rim
• nose:   clean; moderate+ to fully intense and developing aromas of red raspberry and currant, light cranberry notes, pink peppercorn spice, light star anise and black currants
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (well integrated red currant) acids, moderate+ (soft and supple) tannins, moderate body, moderate ABV, moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose with emphasis on the berry flavors throughout, soft finish of savory herbs with a slightly spicy finish. Excellent balance and structure, medium+ to long length on the palate
• conclusion:   this wine drinks very well now, and very well for the price~! Enjoy 2011-2014/15 but will not develop appreciably in bottle
• FOOD PAIRINGS:  great Bordeaux style wine calls for great beef (in my opinion). Serve this with a great grilled ribeye steak with kosher seasalt and extra-virgin olive oil, steamed swiss chard and new potatoes... not the most original food pairing ever, but sometimes we just need to get back to the classics

Moon Curser workers at night

   If you haven't tried these wines before (in either incarnation) you will quickly be listing this as one of your classics... a "go-to" wine that easily expresses BC quality and BC terroir. Well done Moon Curser, and my thanks to John Schreiner (www.johnschreiner.blogspot.com) for his inspired and ever-diligent research.

As always, I look forward to your questions and comments.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley DVA, BC

So before I start to talk about Tinorn Creek winery again (www.Tinhorn.com), I think it's important to talk about Cabernet Franc; the much planted varietal that plays such a pivotal role in so many great red wine blends.

Cabernet Franc (courtesy Wikipedia)

   Cabernet Franc is very closely related to Cabernet Sauvignon: in fact, Cab Franc is one of the parents. So what does this mean for flavor, color, aromas? Well of course there are going to be similarities; both are red wine varietals, both are deep in color though Cab Franc will be lighter in pigment (a trick to use in a blind tasting), both have the obvious red berry flavors though Cab Sauv will tend towards blackberry and plum and Cab Franc will tend towards (depending on where it's grown) raspberry and red currant and then for the aromas there are distinctive differences. Cab Franc has a unique vegetal quality which is accentuated by over-cropping and/or underexposure and will be perceived quite often as bell peppers and/or a "stemminess".

   Now overcropping is something that any viticulturist can avoid if s/he wants to and is motivated towards. That being said, sometimes there are fiscal reasons for over-cropping and sometimes even viticulturists just don't care about quality - they care for quantity. Underexposure is a different matter altogether.

   A winemaker can be motivated to the creation of quality wine, and yet the weather can choose not to co-operate (much like this Summer of 2011 in British Columbia).... by mid-August many winemakers and their vineyard managers are talking about being weeks behind schedule due to excessive cloud cover and mild temperatures. What to do? Well unfortunately, all the skill in the world can't fix something that goes awry in the vineyard.

   Which brings us to one of the primary reasons why Cab Franc was planted and continues to be planted in the first place: it buds and ripens an easy week earlier then it's child Cab Sauv. One week may not seem like much difference, but in regions where late rains or hail are a reality, that week may make the difference between a successful harvest and a failure.

   And where do we find great plantings of Cab Franc? Almost anywhere winemakers plant Cab Sauv and worry about not reaching phenolic ripeness; the Libournais region of Bordeaux (my much loved AOCs of St Emilion and Pomerol) and the Loire Valley of France, the north-east corner of Italy, parts of California and along the northern border of the United States, British Columbia, the Niagara Peninsula and Prince Edward County regions of Canada and throughout the New World.

   So here in beautiful BC we are blessed with almost everything a winemaker could want, with the exception of a lengthy enough summer (in most places) for a winemaker to be able to "properly" cultivate Cab Sauv. What's a winemaker to do? Plant Cab Franc. This is done as insurance for the "Bordeaux-style" blendings for which we have garnered some recognition and, now, as a stand-alone single varietal- sometimes as a late-harvest wine and even as a rosé.

   Tinhorn Creek is rather renown in British Columbia (and in Canada) for the quality of it's Cab Franc. To be completely honest though, the acknowledgements come not only for the quality - but for the absolutely reasonable price that they sell it for. Almost anyone these days can make a decent wine, given the right growing conditions... but it is a dying breed the winemaker who consistently sells a good product for a reasonable price.

2009 Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc

$19.99 at the winery   *** Very Good Value ***

~~ For The Cellar ~~

14.8% ABV

viticulture:   100% from their Diamondback Vineyard on the Black Sage Bench

maturation:   12 months in American oak barrels

awards:        

2007 Cabernet Franc

SILVER Pacific Rim International Wine Competition, 2010
SILVER Taster’s Guild International Wine Judging, 2010
BRONZE Intervin International Wine Competition, 2009
BRONZE World Value Wine Competition, BTI, 2009

• visual:   clear; moderate bruised plum core with substantial cherry rim (slight amount of brick)
• nose:   clean; moderate+ intense youthful aromas of red currants, early raspberries, savory herbs, green bell pepper, sweet wood notes
•  palate:   clean; dry, moderate (well-integrated red currant) acids, moderate+ (slightly green and grippy) tannins, moderate- body, moderate+ intense youthful flavors mimicking the nose with pronounced savory vegetal notes, a long dry finish of red berries, dried mushrooms and sweet wood. Very good balance and structure, long length
• conclusion:   whilst this is already a good wine, it still needs some time to develop in bottle and become a great wine. Best (Fall) 2012-2016
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   I would work off the lighter body and almost delicate structure and use it much like a Burgundian Pinot Noir, pairing it with a traditional Bourguignon with wild BC mushrooms and local vension... I think the slightly vegetal quality will play well off of venison's gamey-ness, the wild mushrooms pull fungal qualities from the wine and the hint of cream and demi-glace balance the wine's moderate acids

Tinhorn's Diamondback vineyard

As always, I look forward to your questions and comments.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Inniskillin Discovery Series Zinfandel, Okanagan Valley DVA

Zinfandel is one of the earliest recorded grape varietals for viticulture in the world... anthropologists have discovered evidence that places the first Zinfandel wines at approximately 6000 BC.

   Six millenia of winemaking using just one varietal would lead one to think that it must be an incredibly popular varietal. Why haven't you heard of it before? Well it all likelihood it's because Zinfandel wasn't always and isn't always called by that name. In the Puglia region of southern Italy it's known as Primitivo, and it Croatia (from whence it is believed to have originated) it is known by the impressive title Crljenak Kaštelanski. And that's just the main names; Zinfandel actually has over 20 synonyms many of which bear absolutely no resemblance to the original.

   So what's the story behind this grape? Well Zinfandel is thought to have been brought across to North America from Austria when the Austrian Empire held territory in Croatia (early 1800's). At that time, much American viticulture was centered around the Boston area (yes seriously) and done in greenhouses. And so began the American saga of the mighty Zin which went on to be planted to much success in California in the mid-1800's and then ripped out during the Prohibition Era of the 1920's and then replanted during the great growth period of Californian winemaking in the 1970's and 80's.

   But who would think it would grow well in British Columbia? A serious question, worthy of serious consideration and a serious answer: No One. That's right, no one. When winemaking truly began to flourish in British Columbia in the 1990's, and the growth of new wineries was so remarkable that even the mighty John Schriener (http://johnschreiner.blogspot.com/) is known to have said on more then one occasion "It's growing so fast that even I find it hard to keep up." At that point in BC's winemaking - no one believed that Zinfandel could truly be grown to any great success in this climate.

Bear Cub vineyard near Osoyoos, British Columbia

   No one should have told that to Inniskillin wineries *(www.Inniskillin.com) or their winemaker in the Okanagan Valley, Sandor Mayer. Vincor, which owns Inniskillin wineries, planted their first Zin vines at the Bear Cub vineyard near Osoyoos in 1999 and in 2002 they released their very first (small lot) vintage through their Discovery Series. The Discovery Series was started, in their words, with the express purpose of cultivating grape varietals not typically grown in the Okanagan. These releases are usually small in nature, and designed more to enlighten us to possibilities rather then a money-making scheme (in my eyes).

   Well, although this wine is much more in keeping with a cold-climate wine then the fully intense flavors I'm used to from California's Santa Clara Mountains AVA, or the Dry Creek AVA, it is full of nuanced flavors, structure and balance. This is certainly it's own rendition of a classic grape passed down to us from the dusty past, and one that I'm very glad Inniskillin wineries and Sandor Mayer have taken the time to - discover again.

2005 Inniskillin Okanagan "Discovery Series" Zinfandel
www.Inniskillin.com

$29 CAD    *** Very Good Value ***

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

vine age:         10 years

fermentation:   on the skins for 14 days

maturation:      11 months in 60% French and 40% American oak

production:     550 cases

• visual:   clear; fully intense garnet core with substantial cherry/brick rim
• nose:   clean; moderate+ intense and developed aromas of worn leather, dried blackberries and black raspberries, pink peppercorn and light Thai chili spice, some warm winery spice like baked cinnamon
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (red and black currant) acids, moderate (slightly green and grippy) tannins, moderate+ alcohol, moderate body, moderately intense and developed flavors that mimick well the nose with especially focus on the red and black currants, and soft cherry end notes. Very good balance and structure, medium- length
• conclusion:   if you have it - drink it now. The winemaker has stated that he believes this wine was best before 2010, but I find it still has some life left in it, just not for long. Lively acids, but the tannins are dying and the concentration is fading. Drink before the end of summer 2011
• PAIRINGS:   rich red wine for rich red meat. Consider any of your braised meat dishes like beef stroganoff as the cream will soften the acids and the fresh dill will bring a fading wine back to life

   Primitivo, Zinfandel, I don't think it much matters what you call it.... people around the world have been enjoying this wine for thousands of years, and now BC winemakers are starting to let the terroir here express itself in a new and exciting way; through a venerable and well deserving grape. Thanks again Inniskillin ~!

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoran Estate Winery, Summerland, BC

Sonoran Estate Winery is named for the vast desert that stretches from southern California to the very northern tip of the Okanagan, of which Summerland could be considered part.

     I have had the good fortune to taste several of Sonoran's wines, and even visit the winery on two separate occasions. Life at Sonoran must be good, if one can judge such things from photos or from brief afternoon visits... and endless vista of rolling hills and warm lakeside, gentle breezes tickling one's nose with the perfume of grapes and orchardfruit heavy in the air and perhaps the merry sound of children playing nearby (or is that the winemaker having too much fun in the cellar?).

     Regardless of my "postcard" image of the serenity that must follow one's days in and around Summerland (*even the name inspires one to languish in a somewhat blissful stupor of barbeques and cold drinks by the pool), I know how hard the winemaker and all of his staff are indeed working. I know this because contrary to the images of joyous abandon, I've seen them hard at work.

     Summerland can reach day-time highs in the 30's and 40's Celsius in mid-summer, which translates to over 110F, which translates to damn hot. And yet, on they trudge and toil to bring us the fruit of an extra-ordinary terroir. Summerland's soil composition ( http://ginkgo.cisti.nrc.ca/RPAS/rpv?hm=HInit&journal=cjss&volume=79&afpf=S98-074.pdf ) is characterized by AgriCanada as Skaha Loamy Sand, which is a coarse soil overlaying a gravelly deposit... that is to say, it drains well and allows the vine roots to dig deep for water and nutrients. This in fact will develop flavors all on it's own, even without the meddling of the benevolent winemaker. A unique terroir that winemakers the world over look at with a tinge (or more) of jealousy...

     And this is what comes from that land:

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon "Jazz Series", Sonoran Estate Winery

Summerland, Okanagan, British Columbia, Canada

http://www.sonoranestate.com/

13.2% ABV, $24.95     ***EXCELLENT VALUE***

Fox's Reach Liquor Store, Maple Ridge

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

• visual:   clean; deep plum-violet core with light cherry-brick rim (indicative of age)
• nose:   clean; fully intense youthful bouquet showing development; wild exotic black florals including black lily, black rose, irises, rich red and black fruit including cherry, raspberry, plum, heavy and yet balanced oaking, long savory spicy notes of nutmeg and allspice, sweet end notes bring back the floral with a slight vegetal tinge
• palate:   clean; dry, fully intense (red currant and cranberry) acids, moderate+ intense (slightly chewy) tannins, moderate+ ABV, moderate+ body, Excellent balance, structure and length
• conclusion:    For $25 I would be hard-pressed to think of a better expression of BC Cabernet Sauvignon. Sonoran Estate had produced an excellent wine which shows incredibly well now with 2 hours decanting... this wine should still age and develop slightly in bottle until 2014 or so
• PAIRINGS:   tonight Mrs. Astudentofwine and I enjoy this luscious wine with a prime rib roast beef, cook over a bed of savory herbs with steamed spaghetti squash and home-made onion rings.



beautiful people sampling beautiful wines at Sonoran

     It's a Sunday night, I've got my wife, a great dinner and I'm almost caught up on my studying. All is good in the world... reason enough to celebrate with a bottle from Sonoran Estate Winery!

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Stift Goettweig, Gruner Vetliner, Austria

So many new words it's like a foreign language... well, that's because it's a foreign language! Gruner Vetliner is known primarily as the white wine of Austria (where it is over 30% of all wine production), Slovakia and the Czech Republic.

     Gruner Vetliner, or GruVe as the hip kids in Austria call it, produces a crisp white wine capable of greatness. It can be enjoyed quite young (evidenced by the 2009 I'm enjoying today) or can cellar well (as is evidenced by http://www.jancisrobinson.com/ giving high points to the 1990 Grüner Veltliner "Vinothekfüllung" Smaragd, Knoll, Austria). It also has in interesting heritage...

     It turns out that no one really knew where the GruVe came from (for certain), and so some researchers - researched. To no avail, still they couldn't deduce both of the parent grapes until... until someone (no idea who) discovered a solitary vine in the abandoned vineyard of St. Georgen outside of Einstadt, Austria. After many years, finally the mystery father appeared! And so, work is being done now to bring it back to the point where crops can be made from St.Georgener-Rebe so that researchers can analyze it properly.

     Pretty neat, huh!?

     Almost as cool as the story of Stift Goettweig, the monastery in Austria that produces the GruVe I'm tasting: the above picture is inside the cathedral.

     Founded in 1083 (as per the label), Stift Goettweig produces a special type of GruVe called Messwein, which can only be called such when it has been produced with permission of a Benedictine Bishop, and follows strict guidelines. Having grown up Irish Catholic, I can well believe the guidelines would be strict .

     Well now the secular has moved in, and though the wine is made under the auspices of the monastery, it is not the monastery Brothers who are toiling in the fields or heading up production. The traditions have been maintained however, from the way the fields are maintained, to the methods of vinification and maturation. Some oak is used now, which certainly did not happen in 1083, but the old ways are still alive and well in the Wachau Valley.

2009 Gruner Vetliner, Messwein

from Stuft Goettweig, Wachau Valley, Austria

http://www.weingutstiftgoettweig.at/

Very Good Value

12% ABV, $22 CAD @ Fox's Reach Wine Store, Maple Ridge

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

• visual:   clean; pale straw core with gold highlights and a light watery rim
• nose:     clean; moderately intense youthful aromas showing signs of development; layers of slate minerality, wild grasses, little summer meadow flowers, ripe stonefruit especially apricot, light honey nuances, soft oaky finish
• palate:    clean; dry, moderate+ to fully intense crisp yellow grapefruit acids, moderate+ (supple) body, moderate+ to full alcohol (don't serve too warm), moderate+ intense youthful flavors showing signs of development; yellow grapefruit, layers of minerality, crisp stonefruit, young pears, light backbone with soft oak, pronounced peppery finish. Good balance, very good structure, short to medium finish.
• conclusion:   Well made entry level Gruner, this wine drinks very well right now, and will continue to do so until the end of 2012. Will not improve with cellaring.
• PAIRINGS:    As always, the wine of a region pairs well with the food of a region, but in this I'll move outside-the-box. Try this delightfully crisp wine with butter braised rabbit and fresh pasta with wild thyme; the light gameyness of the meat will play off the spice in the wine, the butter will blend with the buttery texture of the wine, but also play off the acids and the wild thyme plays off the light grass/ripe meadow flowers.

Looking forward to more from Stift-Goettweig!!!

CINCIN~!!!    SLAINTE~!!!    CHEERS~!!!

Valle Las Acequias, the richness of Malbec

Vancouver, BC: city by the water. It's the first week of June and the winds are whipping down from the local mountains; thick with rain and cold. It feels more like October as a fire burns in our fireplace and a bottle of Valle Las Acequias, 2005 Malbec is decanting. Mrs. Astudentofwine and I settle in to watch Anthony Bourdain travel Great Britain's greatest culinary talents and, weather aside, all is good in the world.

We had this wine with a simple grilled pork, mashed potatoes, bacon & caramelized onion demi-glace and salad. Simple food for simple folks. But the wine? For the price I may never find better quality ever again. The next time I have this wine (and there will be many next times for this wine) I will make my own steak tartare and a confit of elephant garlic to smear on my foccacia crostini. Carpe diem my friends - savor your wine.

2005 Valle Las Acequias Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina 
**BUY THIS NOW @ $22**

by http://www.bodegasarreas.com.ar/

• the color of bruised plums: a true Malbec with the barest hint of brickish rim... looking for all the world more like a 2 year old wine rather then 5 years old
• after decanting 2 hours, a bouquet of worn leather, ferric gamey bloody meat, deep black berries and black currants, irises, dusty earth
• moderate++ acids (bordering on full-) well balanced by moderate+ tannins (which are still a touch green, though big-soft-mildly chewy)
• moderate++ intense flavors that perfectly match the nose and last forever... excellent structure and though reasonably high in alcohol, never hot

A wonder. A truly brilliant wine bordering on true excellence. Similar to what I found in the Pio Cesare Ornato Barolo of 2004, this wine is showing excellent potential and has not peaked yet. Let's be honest, there is a touch of green-ness to the tannins as they are a little rough around the edges, and the acids are a tad over-the-top, but this wine is a find. Buy a case of this and savor a new bottle every month to enjoy how it develops... it's that good. Buy what you can afford, then buy a few more bottles, because let's face it - it's $100/bottle cheaper then Pio Cesare Ornato Barolo~!

Cin-cin! Slainte!

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Thursday, 10th February 2011

So a re-visit to Las Acequias Malbec, but this time the new release: 2006 vintage~!

Well, as I failed to mention any of the particulars of the winery last time, I will attempt brevity:

Remarkably, the family has been in Mendoza since the 16th century, which is 3 centuries longer then the European settlement in Vancouver. The Correas family, who own the winery, have been involved in many aspects of Mendoza (and Argentinean) life including politics when Mr Juan de Dios Correas was governor of Argentina for 3 consecutive terms.

     The Correas family now produce 5 different lines of wines, and I am disheartened to say that I have only tasted one varietal from one line, the here-to mentioned Valle Las Acequias which is named for the ancient canals that bring glacial run-off down from the mountains to irrigate the arid Mendoza landscape.

     Much remains the same in Mendoza; people eat similar food to what was eaten in generations past, horses are still a common mode of transportation, and everyone enjoys their wine. What has changed is: the vast quantity of wine that can be produced now, the quality with which it can be produced, and the equipment used there-in. The Correas family is no exception and is rightfully proud of their use of innovative technology whether it be Julian Correas who has a degree in Agronomy Engineering, or their shiny new de-stemmer machine from Italy, or their warehouse of French oak barrels which can hold..... 3.7 MILLION litres of wine in total (which in 225 L barriques is approximately 16,500 barrels). Rightfully proud.

2006 Malbec from Valle Las Acequias

Estate Don Angelino, High Medrano, Mendoza, Argentina

http://www.bodegasarreas.com.ar/

13.8% ABV, $22 CAD    ** BUY THIS NOW ** 

100% Malbec, 70 year old vines, hand-picked late March

6 months French oak

• visual:   clear; deep garnet core with slight cherry rim
• nose:   clean; fully intense youthful aromas with substantial development; gamey meat, black berries, layers of cherry and red currant, slight black currant, slight garrigue, vanilla at the end with black florals... smells similar to wine from Languedoc-Rousillion in France
• palate:    clean; dry, moderate+ to full (red currant and sour cherry) acids, moderate+ (slightly chewy) tannin, moderate+ ABV, moderate+ body, fully intense youthful flavors showing development; vanilla oak is forward with red berries, followed by some blackberry, black currant, wild savory herbs, black florals at the end with the oak again. Excellent balance. Excellent structure. Brilliant length on the palate (especially for the price).
• conclusion:   Drink it now and drink it later! This wine is showing beautifully now and will continue to do so for several years (2011-2015). I don't predict much more development in the bottle, but it is already a significant value for the money.  
• PAIRINGS:   Bold acids call for a bit of fat, and soft tannin mean you can use a gentler meat; consider duck! It may not be traditional to Argentina, but consider seared duck breast with cherry and caramelized onion compote... onions will brings beauty to this wine- trust me.

     And so, once again, this is one of my top value-wines for the year. I can honestly say that in the past 13 months I have tasted and made notes on over 700 wines, and this is surely, for the money, among the best.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!