It's Monday 01st December and in less than four weeks I will be celebrating my fourth anniversary in wine journalism. Only four years and yet it seems like so much longer because so much has happened and I have been fortunate enough to work with such gifted and passionate winemakers, cider-masters and distillers.

the inimitable and always congenial John Skinner of Painted Rock showing me the Cab Sauv that haunted me all year

It is because of their passion, and the way that this passion has inspired me, that I have decided to create The Chef and The Grape Top Wines and Spirits: a tribute to quality, value and passion.

My friends, we live in the Golden Age of Wine. Consumers have never in the history of (hu)Mankind had access to such a dizzying array of wines, of such rare calibre of excellence, from such distant corners of the world. And for a pittance! For a fraction of what one might have spent 100 years ago. We are blessed.

And here am I, perched in my corner of the office, where the vista unfolds at the base of the mountains; swaths of frozen gossamer already sheath the peaks and I can start to sense where the tree-tops, jade bristle-brushes waving in the winter breeze, will soon be sporting new coats of glistening ice-gems. And my mind wanders back through the year: the 2014 Vancouver Wine Festival, California Wine Fest, New Zealand Wine Fair and the amazing excursion from Oltrepo Pavese, Italy to name a few momentous tastings... yes, as I said, I am blessed.

These wines have been chosen out of about 2000 tasted in 2014 and have been chosen as much for Value as for sheer Excellence. That is to say, don't be surprised to see a $20 wine beat a $100 wine: to my mind, a $100 should be getting 92+points and if it doesn't then it's providing poor value. Just as a $20 wine that does score 92 points is providing amazing value.

Full descriptions are provided below:

TOP WINES AND SPIRITS 2014

1st place Sparkling: the STUNNING value of Cristalino

SPARKLING

1.    Cristalino Cava, Rose, Spain... 91+ points, $15+ CAD, $10-$12 USD

2.   Summerhill "Ariel", Kelowna, BC, Canada... 93 points, $85 CAD

3.   Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc-de-Noirs, Champagne, France... 93 points, $100+ CAD

honorable mention: Marques de Gelida, Gran Reserva Cava "CLAROR" (bio-dynamic), Spain... 92 points

WHITE

1.   Louis Latour 2010 Corton Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Burgundy... 94+ points, $120-$160+ USD

2.   Meyer Family Vineyards 2012 McLean Creek micro-cuvee, BC, Canada... 93+ points, $65 CAD

3.   M. Chapoutier Chante-Alouette Hermitage Blanc, Cotes-du-Rhone, France... 93+ points, $85 USD

honorable mention: Mudhouse single-vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand... 92+/93 points

ROSÉ

1st place Rose: David Akiyoshi's stunning Sangiovese

1.   David Akiyoshi 2012 Sangiovese rosé, Lodi, California... 92+ points, $18 USD

2.   Haywire 2012 Gamay Noir rosé, BC, Canada... 92 points, $25 CAD

3.   Cà del Gè Muscato Frizzante, Oltrepo Pavese, Italy... 92 points, €9

RED

1.   Black Hills 2010 Carmenere, BC, Canada... 95 points, $50 CAD (300 cases only)

2.   Thorn-Clarke "William Randell" Shiraz (Syrah), Barossa Valley, South Australia... 93+/94 points, $70+ CAD

3.   Bodega VistAlba Corte "A", Mendoza, Argentina... 93+ points, $65+ CAD

honorable mention: Painted Rock 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Skaha Lake, BC, Canada... 91+ points, $40 CAD

DESSERT

1.   Málaga Jorge Ordóñez "Old Vines", Portugal... 94 points, $75+ USD

2.   José Maria da Fonseca 20-year Moscatel de Setúbal, the Peninsula of Setúbal, Portugal... 93+ points, $65+ USD

3.   Dalva 1963 Colheita white-port, Duoro, Portugal... 93 points, $115++ USD

honorable mention: Hainle Vineyards 2010 Gewürztraminer Icewine, Peachland, BC, Canada... 93 points, $85++ CAD

1st place Spirits and perhaps the finest spirit I have ever experienced. #Magical

SPIRITS

1.   Marcel Trépout 1968 Armagnac, France... 94+ points, $150+ USD

2.  Pusser's 15-year, British Virgin Islands, West Indies... 93+ points, $90+ CAD

3.   Luksusowa potato Wódka (Vodka), Poland... 91 points, $25 CAD or less!

And now the chance to explain why I chose what I did...

SPARKLING

... small surprise to regular readers that Cristalino Cava has taken top place - AGAIN: absolutely stunning value for the money, this bubbly has garnered awards around the world and stunned sommeliers/judges everywhere. All you need to remember is that Wine and Spirit Magazine has given this their Value Award 3 years in a row - do I hear 4??

2nd place Sparkling: the Ariel from Summerhill, BC, Canada

... Summerhill winery's "Ariel" may be the most eloquent, elegant expression of sparkling wine I have ever had. I prefer this to Cristal and Dom Perignon, and consider it more on the level of Veuve Cliquet "La Grande Dame" but about $100 less per bottle! This is for lovers of mature sparkling wine (I just raised my hand) and carries nuanced tones of dried apricot, almonds and nougat, fresh baguette and cold, crisp, clean minerality amongst others.

... Nicolas Feuillatte may have crafted near-perfection with their 2012 Blanc-de-Noirs... I was overwhelmed by the levels, the concentration, the balance. This is one of the most beautiful expressions of Pinot Noir in Champagne I've had for years and, remember, 2014 Vancouver Wine Festival was themed on Sparkling Wine... I tasted more then a few :)

... I do love Cava, to be certain. That to one side, this offering from Marques de Gelida moves past the "limitations" of Cava and begins to express flavors and aromas most often only found in offerings from northern France for substantially more money! I was wholeheartedly impressed not only with craftsmanship but with the extreme value as this bubbly runs about $20 USD.

WHITE

... Louis Latour is a legend. This wine explains why: stunning layers, concentration, balance... the words are pitifully weak next to the wine. This is truly one of the most beautiful wines I've had in years and, hard for some to believe, is an Excellent Value at $150 USD. If one could find a Bordeaux red of this calibre, it would fetch $500++USD with ease and even a Champagne of this quality would be $300 USD. No - if you are a wine-lover, forget whether you love red or white. If I was a dinosaur I would be a "Bordeaux-a-saur" and yet even I acquiesce to this wines' greatness. If you do enjoy it, make room in your cellar for Chateau Musar white as well... a must!

Jak Meyer telling me about his Exceptional micro-cuvee Chardonnay

... I never expected to find one of the best values in Burgundy in Canada. Ever. And yet here I am telling you that, after working with Maison Jadot only last year, if you want fantastic value in Burgundian precision, Burgundian elegance, Burgundian intellect focused behind a purely Canadian terroir... pick up a case of the MFV micro-cuvee for about the price of 2 bottles of equivalent quality from Burgundy. An easy decision for me! Listen to the interview in the linked article above and, afterwards, you can ask Jak Meyer what Steven Spurrier thought of the wines if you don't believe me...

... wine has been grown in Hermitage for almost 2000 years. It took winemakers like Michel Chapoutier to turn that into #WorldClass product. This is, perhaps, not a record-setting year for scores from this region - but it is a singularly expressive vintage. This wine speaks with great verve of France, of region and of the varietal: 100%  Marsanne in this case. If you see this on a wine-merchant's shelf, purchase it - it is it's own reward.

... honorable mention went to Mudhouse and their inimitable winemaking duo for crafting the most eloquent expression of Sauvignon Blanc I have ever had. What Nadine Worley and Ben Glover have done is craft something so singular that it stands as an example of what is possible when people Believe. This carries depth and dimension far beyond its modest price-point and belongs to something far more grandiose. Small wonder Ben and Nadine, both, are recognized around the world for setting the highest standards for production and elocution.

ROSÉ

... David Akiyoshi was a name I had never heard before 2014, but a name that I shall now never forget. David is, to me, one of the most skilled winemakers I have (never) met. I've only tasted two of his wines; both were, shall we say, unusual to the marketplace - and yet utterly #WorldClass. This is one of the best Sangiovese I've ever had (for the price especially) and certainly one of the best rosé. If you haven't tried his wines yet then you simply haven't experienced the new taste of California!

a guest savoring the Vancouver moment with a glass of Ca del Ge muscato frizzante

... Haywire wines have been blazing a trail across British Columbia and Canada. To some (the un-learned) this means little. To those in the know, it means that these fine folks are kicking ass in one of the most progressive and competitive wine-regions on Earth. Smaller production than Algeria, BC is winning top honors around the world... and Haywire is winning awards amongst British Columbians. Will this be to your taste? I haven't the foggiest... but no one could try this and say it was anything less than superbly crafted.

... The first time I tasted the wines of the Oltrepo Pavese I was stunned into speechlessness (which
rarely, never happens). These "under-dogs" of the Italian winemaking community have been battling not only a growing international marketplace but, also, disdain from their own brethren. It seems as though Italians consider this region to be a "lesser" producer... to which all I can say is that genius is rarely recognized at home! Though I was mightily impressed with many wines, this rosé stood out as something unique and worthy of notice.

RED

... I'll perhaps never know if that sample bottle of Carmenere was really intended for me when my media pack was mixed with that of an older, more learned colleague - but I'll always be grateful for the confusion! For this was the second time I got to try the 2012 Black Hills Carmenere  and I knew - I knew - that it wasn't a fluke! This was one of the best red wines I have ever had in my life. And it was from Canada! Well throw out the rule-books and let's approach wine with an open mind because now anything is possible my friends! Graham Pierce (winemaker) and his team are pushing the boundaries of what is possible and they are doing this in a BIG way - expect greatness from subsequent vintages.

1st place Red and highest scoring wine of 2014: Black Hills Carmenere, BC, Canada

... After five generations of winemaking, I could expect competence, and hope for great professionalism - but who could predict that this family from South Australia would scoop award after award after award?! Well, anyone who is familiar with the portfolio could have... these guys are serious about their wine. The Thorne-Clarke "William Randell" takes Syrah/Shiraz to a new level that few wineries in the world can compete with and none can replicate. Ask me what I love most about it? I know that next year they'll put out the same level of product - or better. And the year after. And the year after that. And the year after that...

... Bordeaux is the standard by which all "Big Boys" measure their red-blends: Cab-Sauv, Merlot and perhaps Cab-Franc... except in Argentina where some bold wineries are including Malbec (one of the original Bordeaux varietals). In this we find Malbec with CabSauv and Bonarda... unexpectedly full of dimension, elegance and concentration this has the capacity to become a Mover-and-Shaker in the world of wine. For now expect to find this for a fraction of its true worth, and enjoy!

... my bias for BC wines comes not from being a native of British Columbia, because I'm not. My bias comes from the earnest toil that wineries are devoting to these new plantings; the absolute dedication to learning their land and coming to a fuller understanding of what the Land wants to express. None are taking that ideology more to heart than John Skinner and the team at Painted Rock on the bluffs above Skaha Lake in the Okanagan Valley DVA, British Columbia. This is not the best Cab-Sauv I had all year but it was so personal that the memory of that tasting has haunted me for months. Having watched the evolution of this winery's Chardonnay into what I consider Premier Cru level (in only a few years) I have no doubt that the development of this wine will be equally formidable. I advise purchasing sooner rather than later: the Red Icon (Bordeaux style blend) already sells in Singapore for $900/bottle.

DESSERT

... before this tasting I had never had a Málaga before: this spoiled me in the most beautiful way possible. The incredible concentration of flavors and aromas was staggering: warm Christmas spices like warm apple-cinnamon loaf fresh from the oven, grilled pineapple, pear chutney, fresh honeysuckle under a summer sun... and then there was the balance! Impeccable! Ripe sugars played off a near perfect harmony of lemon-balm full acid. For the price, this may be the finest dessert wine I have ever had.

3rd place Dessert: Dalva opened my eyes to an entirely new style of Port wines

... Moscatel de Setúbal is, much like any other grape, capable of greatness in the right hands. In the hands of José Maria it has grown beyond greatness and into something transcendent; this is an example to other winemakers of the power that comes with generations working towards a common goal. It is no flattery to say that this wine is on a level of craftsmanship and expression of region that many wineries may never reach: Christmas spices mixing with a hint of Raz-el-Hanout, baked earth, crusty bread fresh from the oven, almonds toasting in a pan... the aromas and flavors are so pure, so concentrated that they must be experienced to be believed.

... White Port. White Port?! Surely a joke; that's what I thought when I saw a winery owner at a stunning Portuguese wine-tasting with an aged white-port. I had always been taught that white ports were sub-standard; lacking in any true depth of flavor, concentration or finesse. I tasted the wine to be polite and was rewarded with one of the most unexpectedly decadent flavors of the year: rich nougatty-goodness with complimentary tones of slightly burnt honey, orange marmalade and orange blossom tea with the perkiest, most vibrant acid to balance the high levels of sugar. Harmonious. And this was my introduction to Dalva wines; producers of excellence and true pioneers in the crafting of vintage white port.

... I gave honorable mention to the Hainle vineyards Gewürztraminer icewine, and, small wonder; being the first producers of icewine in North America. This particular cuvée is named "Clare's vintage" in our house for it was purchased in honor of the birth of my daughter and what a spectacular way to celebrate it! Decadently sensual aromas of fresh apricot marmalade cooling in the window, over-ripe peaches dripping their honey-liquer on fingers as we devour them with gusto and an entire garden of summer flowers wafting through the room: yellow roses, daffodils, peonies, asters and dahlias. Brilliantly balanced, this will cellar for decades and reward the faithful.

SPIRITS

... I've met them: the snobs. Those who say that only Cognac is capable of true grace, balance and articulation. To them I quote the immortal John Cleese "phhhlllllllltttttttt" as I stick out my tongue. And then, were I in a graceful mood, I would pour them a dram of this heavenly elixir. The team at Marcel Trepout have been crafting some of the finest distillate in the world, and doing so for a very very long time. Remember that Armagnac was being produced 200 years before Cognac ever got started, and practice makes perfect! Aromas that blend and intertwine so seductively as to make the word “bouquet” utterly inept: salt-water toffee, white truffle shavings, a cacophony of Summer flowers melding into potpourri with fresh peaches/nectarines/pears and hints of wild thyme/bay leaf/sage/lavender growing on the hill... this is an Experience.

2nd place Spirits: one of the finest rums on the market today and easily scoring 93+ points.

... I'm a rum fan, no doubt about it. And, I've been an advocate for the craftsmanship of Pusser's rum; also, no question. But if someone would have told me that Pusser's 15-year would, in my mind, be challenging 18-year and 21-year Caribbean rums of long pedigree I would have been quick to argue: "I've been to Cuba!" I'ld state. "I've had brilliant examples of this work from some of the finest producers in the world!". A select group to which, for me, Pusser's now belongs without hesitation or reserve. For under $100 CAD this has been one of the finest spirits I have ever tasted: a harmony of orange zest, molasses, warm nutmeg and vanilla like a Christmas pudding just pulled from the oven and a big mug of black tea beside it... sublime. And it gives back to the community? Well that's like having your cake and eating it too :) Rhum-cake that is.

... bartenders everywhere are nodding their heads in agreement with me on my choice for third place; Luksusowa Wódka is most likely the finest quality spirit of it's class and out-performs competitors much more expensive than it is. My ultimate test for distillates is to taste them straight and at room temperature... a test for which most $20-something vodkas would make me cringe. The Luksusowa is beautiful! Crisp, clean and without any of the "petrol" notes one finds in many spirits under a certain price. I've had the pleasure of creating stunning infusions with it as well as many classic cocktails. I have never found a vodka for anywhere near the price that competes. #StunningValue

the reason why I celebrated that bottle of Marcel Trepout

I sincerely hope that this enlightens you to some of the great treasures out there in the world of wine and spirits in 2014. To the winemakers, distillers, agents and importers I worked with: many thanks again for your time and generosity throughout the year. It has been my great privilege to work with each and every one of you and I look forward to being able to share more of your stories, on an even larger media platform, in the coming year.

   Chef Kristof Gillese

As always you can find more recipes, free wine reviews and my notes on premium distillates and cigars on:

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Novas wines by Emiliana organic vineyards

Recently, I've been focused on the concept of terroir, and it's preservation. So much so, that I sent an idea for a lecture about this critical theme to the North American Wine Blogger's Conference. They have taken my idea, melded it with another theme, and will be re-packaging it into a 2.5 hour panel-lead discussion on Saturday 08th June. I'm pretty giddy about that!

But why? What's all the commotion about you say?

There is an evolution happening not only in the wine industry in general, but in our province of British Columbia in specific. Many readers know that in 1986 there were only 33 wineries in BC, and by 2011 that number had grown to over 240. We are growing faster then even the greatest wine gurus of Canada can reasonably keep up with.

But it's not just growth in numbers of wineries, or volume of production, that is so exciting to me and many others. It's the proliferation of truly world-class wines that are coming from our extreme wine region. We here at the most northerly edge of the wine-world are releasing sparkling wines rated as some of the finest anywhere. We produce truly unique and high-caliber Pinot Noir, ultra crisp, clean Chardonnay, bone-dry and fully intense Riesling... I even know a winemaker who produces small quantities of a brilliant Tempranillo. 

But will we always?

vineyard at Emiliana

As much as there is fantastic development in organics and bio-dynamics, and BC is one of the regions that is leading the foray,  there is another side to the industry. New winery owners are still being told, by some people, that it's ok when building a new winery - to bulldoze the land and then plant what is needed or wanted. There is still a proportion of the industry that doesn't believe that a natural ecosystem, well-preserved, is absolutely necessary to create a full and complete expression of terroir. 

It is that expression that creates uniquely beautiful wines. I also believe, as do many others, that it allows for greater life-span in the wines as well.

Emiliana organic vineyards (www.Emiliana.cl) is a brilliant example of these principles at work. I remember vividly the Vancouver Wine Festival of 2012, and be able to sit (in awe) and listen to the fantastically passionate Alvaro Espinoza (consulting winemaker). This man bristled with dynamic energy as he spoke of the investment of time, energy and passion into the land and the people who were producing Emiliana wines. 

There are so many things to list that Emiliana is doing well, that I would be remiss to even start the process - for you and I would be here for a long, long time. Better for you to read the company website and absorb from them directly the whats and hows of what this premium winery has done and continues to do. But let me tell you about the wines if you haven't tried them.

2010 Novas Chardonnay-Marsanne

DO Valle de Casablanca

$13.99 www.bcldb.com

89 points

www.PMACanada.com importers

vine age: 20 years
altitude: 370 m
vineyard yield: 6 tons/HA
maturation:  30% aged 4 months in new French oak
production: 9,350 cases

• visual:   clear; pale gold core with light watery rim, silver highlights
• nose:   clean; medium+ intense and youthful aromas; ripe pineapple, exotic floral notes, slate-like minerality, peppery finish
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ green apple/lemon acids, medium body, medium+ ABV (14%), medium+ intense and youthful flavors that mimick the nose with a keen line of mineral throughout, starts with the lush fruit/floral and finishes with a clean light citrus tone. Very good balance and structure, medium length
• conclusion:   brilliant wine for the money. Drink now, drink often! Will not develop appreciable but can be held until 2018 or potentially longer
• FOOD PAIRING:   crisp lemon acids with love a fat roast chicken or duck! Consider poulet au quarantes l'ail (the chicken of 40 garlic) where you put generous wedges of garlic in little cuts in a whole chicken and slow-roast...divine!!

2010 Novas Cabernet-Sauvignon Carmenere
DO Valle de Colchagua
$17.99 www.bcldb.com
90 Points

vine age:   20 years
altitude:   245 m
soil composition:   colluvial; stoney with clay-loam
yield:   8 tons/HA
maturation:   12 months, 40% new French oak, 30% American, 30% stainless steel
production:   13,250 cases

• visual:   clear; deep garnet core with slightest cherry rim
• nose:   clean; fully intense and youthful aromas; pungent savory herbs; tomato leaf/bay leaf, ripe dark  plums, strawberries, bell peppers, rich dark chocolate
• palate:   clean; dry, medium raspberry acids, medium+to full chalky/chewy tannin, medium+ body, medium to medium- ABV(14%), medium+ to full intense and youthful flavors expressing deep earthy tones, savory dark chocolate, bright red berries, hints of tobacco and leather. Excellent balance and structure, medium+ length
• conclusion: whilst this is already drinking quite well, this will reward patient cellaring. Enjoy 2013-2020
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   dimension, elegance, this wine over-delivers and pairs handsomely with prime rib, but also consider seared venison flat-iron steak with maple glaze, steamed spaghetti squash and rainbow chard, "raz-el-hanout" spiced quinoa... very specifically the maple and the Arabic spices both play well off the wines dark cocoa notes and the nuttiness of quinoa will enhance the tobacco/leather tones

Though for this article I'm writing about the Novas line, I must mention the great jewel of Emiliana which is the Coyam Bordeaux-style blend. I will never grow tired of that wine! Truly elegant in it's production, it follows the principles of a left-bank Bordeaux-blend with it's high proportion of Cabernet-Sauvignon whilst creating a flavor-profile that is entirely it's own. It is unabashedly Chilean with it's richness of bouquet; the depth of the savory earth-tones, the dark floral aromas... I have never scored it less then 92 points and was un-surprised to discover that it had earned the prestigious title of "Best Wine of Chile" in 2003.

Alvaro Espinoza

This is what happens when a winery treats their land as it deserves. This is the direct result of a terrific investment of both finances and energy into allowing a natural landscape to evolve into a thriving vineyard. These ideals don't just exist on paper for wine-lovers: these ideals exist in the bottle, and the glass. Alvaro Espinoza understands and shares these ideals. He has brought the story of his land, his valleys and his people to my very distant part of the world and I will always be grateful to him for that. I look to this winery as one of the best examples of how our industry can be leaders in organics, in bio-dynamics and carbon-neutral business and can do so with heart, and spirit while building a truly prosperous business.

Well done Emiliana! I would have loved your wines enough for what was in the bottle - the back story is icing on the cake. Now I get to drink great wine and support a worthwhile company at the same time. Where are you investing your consumer dollars???

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Oveja Negra, VIA wines, Valle del Maule, Chile

The focus around Vancouver as of late has undoubtedly been Chile, at least when it comes to wine. Our recent Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival (http://www.playhousewinefest.com/) was a raging success, as always, and Wines of Chile ( http://www.winesofchile.org/) has been helping to create memorable experiences throughout BC and the rest of North America.

   As many of you know, I have not been immune to the almost frenzied pull of Chilean red wines, and find the quality vs price to been some of the finest value in the world. Long gone are the days when saying "Chilean wine" was a subtle code for "table wine". These days Chilean wines are on some of the most prestigious winelists to be found, and sommeliers and wine merchants alike are clamouring for more, more, more!

   Which brings me to Ojeva Negra, the black sheep, http://www.viawines.com/. Perhaps I had a natural inclination to be fond towards the wines just because they are Chilean, or because my wife's maiden name means sheep in Italian. Perhaps that explains why I was open-minded towards wines that came in at well under $20 a bottle in BC (which has the second highest liquor tax in the world) and in general here - wines under $20 are often over-cropped, diluted and poorly balanced. Perhaps that explains my willingness to try the wines, but only the quality they deliver explains why I'm writing about the wines.

   VIA wines is a newcomer to Chile, having only been started in the late 1990's with two partners: a British wine merchant and a Chilean family with strong traditions in wines and spirits. They came along just at the time when Chile was truly making a place for itself among the great wines of the world, and had faith that they too could create brilliance in the most unique of places.

   Perhaps it is the first part of their company's mission statement that is the most telling "to craft innovative wines of the highest quality, in harmony with Nature...". Out of all of those words, perhaps the word "craft" is the most telling. Many writers will talk about the winemakers they meet, but rarely do we use the word "craftsman" (or woman) to describe that person. The truth is that even in the wine industry, there are a great many people who are just "doing their job" rather then "living their passion".

   Thankfully, the bold young team at VIA seem to have no end to their passion; passion for great wine, passion for working with their land in a respectful manner, passion for reducing their carbon-footprint in every aspect of their business, and passion for getting you the best wine for the best price. Admirable ambitions, but let's see how they measure up in the glass.

2011 Oveja Negra Sauvignon Blanc - Carmenere

$12 SPEC (BC)     88 points

blend:     85% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Carmenere

vines:     10+ years, single vineyard, with excessive yield of 12 tons/HA

soil:    fine textured alluvial with loam and loamy-clay, altitude 500 feet

vinification:   all stainless steel, with earth filtering

• visual:   clear; ultra pale core with light gold and watery rim
• nose:   clean; moderately intense and youthful; ripe stonefruits such as apricots and peaches, blossoming summer floral notes... very inviting
• palate:   clean; dry, fully intense (lemonbalm) acids, light body, moderate ABV (13%), moderately intense and youthful flavors mimicking the nose with more emphasis coming from citrus notes of lemon zest and yellow grapefruit, rich undercurrant of minerality. Very good balance and structure, medium length
• conclusion:   a crowd pleaser; for the price anyone who can get their hands on this will enjoy an overabundance of value for money. That being said I would love to try this wine when the vines mature a bit more and they reduce the yield
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   vibrant acidity wants for a bit of fat, and I would use seafood... consider a sushi experience with sea urchin or, for the less daring, try it with your butter poached crab or grilled prawns and watch it sing!

2010 Oveja Negra Cabernet Franc - Carmenere
$12 (SPEC) (BC)    89 points

blend:   72% Cabernet Franc, 28% Carmenere
vines:    10 years old, harvested at 8-10 tons per HA
soil:   same as above, single vineyard
vinification:   25% of the blend was 8-10 months in oak, also earth filtered

• visual:   clear; moderate ruby core with light cherry rim (little bricking)
• nose:   clean; moderate+ to fully intense and developing aromas; baked earth, rich red currants, strawberry compote, background of old cigarbox, light dark floral tones
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (young raspberry and currant) acids, moderate+ (slightly grippy) tannins, moderate body, moderate+ ABV (13.5%), moderate+ intense and developing flavors mimicking the nose with the bright young red berry flavors running rampant, undercurrants of floral notes. Very good balance, a structure approaching excellence, medium+ length
• conclusion:   the only thing holding this wine back is the youth of the vines. It shows a great deal of craftsmanship, especially for the price, and is still very young. Drinks well 2014-2018 and beyond
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   seared venison flank steak with blueberry and peppercorn compote on steamed spaghetti squash and roast wild mushrooms.... the venison will cosy up to the rich berry notes in the wines, the peppercorn with play of the almost-sweet and supple Carmenere, the spaghetti squash for a palate cleanser and the wild mushrooms will coax the earthy notes up front and show more depth in the wine

2009 Oveja Negra Carignan

$17 (SPEC) (BC)     91 points

blend:   87% Carignan, 9% Malbec, 4% Petit Verdot

vines:    40 years+ from the western side of the Valle del Maule, yield of 7-9 tons/HA

soil:    marginal granitic slopes with low moisture

vinification:   100% malolactic fermentation in French oak barrels for 12 months

• 
  visual:   clear;  medium+ plum core with slightest cherry rim
• nose:    clean; rich bouquet of plums, berry compote, light peppercorn spice, dark florals such as irises
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ to fully intense (red  currant) acids, medium+ (rich and chewy) tannins, moderate+ boy, moderate ABV (13.5%), moderate+ intense and developing flavors mimicking the nose with richness, fluidity and nuance. Excellent balance and structure with medium+ to long length
• conclusion:   the winemaker is finally shining by allowing his vines to express themselves. This wine is a joy to savor, and savor it I am... enjoy now (with one hour decant) 2012-2017 and possibly beyond
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   an easy one, just buy the best cut of beef you can, season it with salt and pepper, and have some potatoes and veggies for garnish.... a truly versatile wine it would also be brilliant  with a charcuterie platter; some dry aged sausage, some hard cheese and fresh bread!

   And so at the end, I'm left re-reading my notes and finding that VIA wines is living up to it's guiding principles: "Identifying the varietals that match our estates' soil characteristics, finding a balance variety and soil that express the typicity of each one". Expressing "typicity".... that just means expressing location, or terroir  as some might call it... it reminds me of what one winemaker told me. He said his job wasn't to make wine, it was to allow the wine to make itself.

   Bravo VIA, my expectations are now set on high for next years release!

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Chateau D'Arche, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux Superieur

Alot of names for a little bottle of wine, and I can easily remember the days when this would have been daunting. Let me try and help you understand the label of this lovely (and relatively inexpensive) little way to enter the fiscally intimidating region of Bordeaux.

Chateau D'Arche in Ludon, Medoc

   Firstly, Chateau D'Arche is a very well established chateau; it was classified as a "Cru Bourgeois" in 1932 (explanation to follow) and for almost 20 years has been owned and managed by the owners of the prestigious Chateau Palmer (http://www.mahler-besse.com/). Chateau Palmer, a Grand Cru Classe, is exorbitantly expensive. To wit: a 1945 Chateau Palmer will auction for over $15,000 USD and it's only a 91-point wine.

 I cannot afford Chateau Palmer. But that being said, I am more then willing to enjoy the work of Mähler-Besse (the owners) and their winemaker at a fraction of the cost.

 Now as to the Cru Bourgeois: back in 1855 Emperor Napoleon mandated a classification of the chateau of Bordeaux for the Paris Exposition. The chateau were classified mostly according to the price of the wines and were not intended (we are taught) to be a judgement on quality. This list was divided into Premier Cru (First Class), Deuxiemes Cru (Second Class) and so on through Fifth Class.

   Well very little has changed since that time with the exception that the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and Agriculture created a "Cru Bourgeois" in 1932. This list included 444 wineries that were thought to be of "high quality" and was divided into several tiers as well. This multi-tier system has since been annulled (as of 2008) and there is only one tier: Cru Bourgeois. This is supposed to indicate a high quality wine that was not on the official classification of 1855. Enough history?

   Time for some geography~! What is the Haut-Medoc?? Please refer to my article http://astudentofwine.blogspot.com/2011/01/chateau-la-gorce-medoc-bordeaux-france.html . Suffice it to say that the Medoc region is Left Bank Bordeaux (which in general means the wine will have a significant proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon) and the Haut-Medoc has the highest ratio of Grand Cru chateau.

1999 Chateau D'Arche, Haut-Medoc

Cru Bourgeois Superieur 

$45 BCLDB   **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

commune:   Ludon-Medoc

blend:         45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 15% Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Carmenere

age of vines: minimum 35 years

soil type:    rich gravel

cultivation: completely manual without the use of any chemicals

vinification: traditional saignee method with 21 day maceration

aging:         12 months in 35% new French barriques

awards:      15.5/20 Vinum Wine Magazine

                   2 stars Le Guide Hachette des Vins

• visual:   clear; medium garnet core with light cherry-brick rim and slight sediment
• nose:   clean; fully intense and developed bouquet of red and black berries; cherries, black raspberries, blackberries, crisp red currant and cassis, intoxicating summer floral notes of roses, green peppers from the Carmenere and rich savory woodsy and earthy background
• palate: clean; dry, moderate+ (still crisp red currant) acids, moderate (well integrated and chalky) tannins, medium body, moderate+ alcohol (12.5%), moderate intensity and developed flavors similar to the nose with emphasis on the red berry flavors with a strong woodsy/oaky/earthy presence mid-palate. Good balance, very good structure, good length
• conclusion:   drinking well now, I have heard people say that this vintage will cellar to 2020... perhaps, but there will be no further development of flavors and one is in danger of losing the last of these zippy acids
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   as with any great Cab-Sauv blend, my natural inclination is to steak. As this is French, why not a classic Steak Frites with peppercorn demi-cream or even with Steak Tartare and roast elephant garlic jam as an appetizer?

   Chateau D'Arche is not a Grand Cru wine, but it most certainly is Grand Cru skill utilized to it's fullest. The reward is in the glass!

As always, I look forward to your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Rogue WetBar Opens!

So tonight was the opening of a new watering hole: Rogue Wetbar. Situated in arguably the most central location of Vancouver, it's a classy joint in a classy building.














These guys were finishing up just as we walked in the door. Wow - I've been through opening days before and it's nerve-wracking. Hats off to them though, they pulled it off and apparently without a hitch.












Incredibly friendly staff - very attentive. There was a line-up for the 5:00pm opening and it seems as though the rebranding is going to be a success if the attention of the locals is anything to judge by.

Brilliant room! Lots of light, exposed brick - lots of kitch, bling, pattern, color. This is a room designed (IMHO) to be fun! There are lots of floor-to-ceiling "drapes" the give the illusion of privacy at tables... even the pitcher cocktails I saw at the next table looked nicer then the $14 pricetag would inspire one to believe.












One of the coolest menus I've ever seen, bar none. I am truly impressed. Brilliant design whoever came up with that one.

Neat looking food, but I was a bit let down when I found out that there was nothing I could eat from the appetizers except for nachos (Celiac UnFriendly). I couldn't even eat the fries... too bad - they have a fry trio for $8 with (a) gorgonzola & bacon cream, (b) traditional poutine & (c) truffle oil & parmesan cheese. Oh My.

Did I mention they have 20 beers & ales on tap? And not Coors but micro-brews the lot of them... oh to be an Irishman in Rogue Wetbar.

I'm a winedrinker these days though, and so was happy to see 3-3fl oz samplers for a great price. Imagine my surprise when there was no price on the menu! Ah well, a small error I hope will me amended. (My 3 wine sampler was $16)




WINE A
Veramonte "Riserva" Chardonnay, Casablanca Valle, Chile

• moderate intense nose of bright, fresh, buttery melon with minerality and pears
• moderate++ acids, balanced by moderately intense flavors of melon, crabapple, lemon and lime
• a moderate+ body with strong alcohol, these rich flavors need great food like melted brie! Raclette anyone?

WINE B

Quail's Gate Gamay Rose, West Kelowna, BC **Try this wine ASAP**

• fully intense bouquet of strawberries, rhubarb, blackberry & rich summer flowers
• moderate++ acids are quite crisp but not overwhelming. moderately intense flavors match the nose perfectly. Excellent craftsmanship.
• light body - I would choose to drink this wine on it's own in the summer heat, or pair it with subtle foods such as chevre, cold poached prawns or a duck galentine

WINE C

Vina Maipo Carmenere-Cabernet Sauvignon, Valle Central, Chile

• a moderately intense nose that needed some coaxing, but opened to plums, blackberry, chalky soil, mild leather and tobacco
• moderate(+) acids balanced barely by moderate tannins (quite smooth from the price). Full flavors of strawberry, saskatoon, plums with a touch of jalapeno spice
• I found the acids a bit over-the-top, and would only serve it with food. Try with the biggest, baddest, fattest burger you can get - almost like Rogue planned this?