2014 Vancouver International Wine Festival: Trade Tasting

http://www.playhousewinefest.com/

There's a reason why the viticulture Illuminati descend on Vancouver at the end of February each and every year: pantheons whose names are carved on the modern history of wine. Mondavi, Antinori, Chapoutier, Perrin, Tattinger... the list goes on. And why? Why do these giants come to the far side of the globe, to a (relatively) small city with a very new wine market; historically predispositioned to drink beer rather then savor sparkling wine?

One important reason is the voracity of local wine professionals to grow, to learn, to absorb as much as possible from these families and businesses who count their experience not in years but in generations. 7000 tickets are sold each and every year for only two days of Trade Events which means that, for the principals from the wineries, this is an opportunity for them as well! The opportunity to sample their well-loved, hand-crafted, more-then-slightly-doted-on Reserves and Gran Reservas for a throng of informed consumers who (mostly) appreciate the hard work and dedication that went into creating them.

For the wineries, this is the chance to influence the influencers: to dazzle with the creamy mousse of Champagne, titillate with cheeky rose and gratify with gutsy Cab-Sauv. The Public Tasting will sell cases upon cases of wine, but the Trade Tasting sells containers of wine and can shift the very tide of the Industry for those willing to put their best foot forward.

And what of the insiders from BC and surroundings who flock to the events? If you haven't been able to make the time for this yet, then you've been missing out and there's no nicer way to say it. Winemakers, viticulturists, principals from the top wineries in the world here to pour for us but, more important, to answer our questions! What is the hidden value in Bordeaux? What's the next exciting project for Chateau Ste Michelle? How is Ray Signorello working in the vineyard to evolve the already iconic "Hope's Cuvee" Chardonnay? Over 175 wineries here this year and over 175 rare opportunities to speak one-on-one with these game-changers. Oh, and they all bring one private reserve just to pour for the Trade Tastings... as if we needed another incentive. 

I was absolutely stunned by the level of quality this year in all price-points and hope that you get the opportunity to taste them as well.

1. Chateau la Maroutine, white Bordeaux

90 points

http://www.liffordwine.com/on/brands/chateau-la-maroutine

What a beautiful wine and brilliant value too at around $20 CAD... "Summer in a glass" was how I first described it, and I still can't find a better way to summarize: rich, fully intense youthful aromas of ripe apricot compote, fresh grass and warm hay, an entire garden of white and yellow flowers. The bouquet is followed by a palate of crisp, clean minerality and approachable acids. Great balance, structure and concentration, this wine over-delivers. Worthy of note; Sandrine Darriet, eonologist/winemaker for the winery, is also a professor at the illustrious Universite de Bordeaux!

2. Chateau Ste. Michelle, sparkling Pinot Noir rose

90+ points

http://www.ste-michelle.com/

Clean, crisp, mineral-driven Pinot Noir with the blush of young raspberries and the savory hints of wild thyme growing in the garden... an utterly delightful way to start the day, this is such a perfect representation of what Washington is capable of. Pair this with some fresh WestCoast salmon and your tastebuds will thank-you! I love that this is a winery humble enough to ask for guidance from some of those "iconic" producers: Loosen and Antinori. And the result? A "String-of-Pearls" of plots throughout Washington producing true representation of the soil, the varietal and the winery. Terroir may be a French concept, but it's alive and well in America.

3. Signorello, "Hope's Cuvee" Chardonnay

92+/93 points

http://signorelloestate.com/

Not the first time that I've mentioned this producer from Napa Valley ( http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2013/05/signorello-portfolio-tasting-2013.html ), nor the last as evidenced by the current vintage of their reserve Chardonnay. Consistently excellent and over-delivering quality, Ray Signorello drives that value of terroir in his vineyard. The site for the "Hope's Cuvee" is, in his opinion, one of the best plots on the entire property. Signorello leaves the work of crafting this wine to the vines themselves and remains out of the picture as much s possible: very low yields (2 tons/HA), wild yeast fermentation, no cold stabilization, 16 months in barrel all go towards creating a living testament from  a son to the memory of his mother.

4. Tenuta Argentiera

Bolgheri Superiore

91+ points

www.argentiera.eu

A new classic: this wine was to me utterly Bordeaux. A traditional Left-Bank blending of Cab-Sauv, Merlot and Cab-Franc it sings with aromas of fresh red raspberries, black currants, hints of graphite and the warmth of wood... gentle sous-bois undergrowth tones round it out. The palate is crisp, clean and in the words of a mentor "Tastes like more" meaning that there is no palate-fatigue with this wine. Great balance and structure I would never have guessed it to be Italian (not meant as derogatory). I asked Jeanette Servidio the Sales and Marketing Director why a Tenuta in Livorno, Italy would be crafting a Cab-blend, gorgeous as it is. Her response: "why make mediocre Sangiovese when we can make World-Class Bordeaux??" It turns out that when the humble owners took possession of the property, neighbors suggested something along the lines of "Hey - those guys down the road making Sassicaia have done a good job with Cabernet... you should try too!" And, they listened... calcareous soil with lots of limestone makes their site a perfect match and, after tasting it, how could anyone argue?

5. Santa Rita "Casa Real"

Bordeaux styled blend

93 points

www.santarita.com

Cecilia Torres, winemaker for Santa Rita, has been the artisanal guiding force behind this signature wine since its inception in 1989. The vineyard in Alto Jahuel however, has been been doing it's work for much, much longer... the median age of the vines is around 85 years old and the sheer weight, concentration and complexity of the wine speaks to that legacy. In the glass it offeres rich, textured aromas of roast beef, wild sage, currant jelly and a pinch of Thai chili. The palate is full; dynamic yet approachable and oh-so-inviting with it's chewy yet fully integrated tannin. An absolute World-Class Cab, it offers fantastic value at just over $100 for if you've ever tried to purchase 1st Growth Bordeaux, $100 doesn't get you very far. A sophisticated vintage, this is marked by the coolness of the year and it's immense ability to continue developing in savvy-cellars for decades.

...

And the list goes on. "To see is to experience" as they say, but perhaps in this instance it should read "To taste". Every year the Vancouver International Wine Festival keeps growing, keeps attracting more winemakers, more chefs, more sommeliers and more great wine. The question is no longer why you should be here next year, only why shouldn't you?

My thanks to the @VanWineFest and Heth PR ( http://hethpr.com/ ) for access to the Trade Tasting room and for coordinating such a stellar event so close to home.

As always, I look forward to your thoughts, comments and questions. Here, or:

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

Maison Louis Latour, Montagny 1er cru 2009

www.louislatour.com

There’s a minute group of businesses who belong to a special club; an “uber” tier to the concept of family-run companies called the Henokiens. The membership is limited to companies that are leaders in their respective fields, remain family owned, have a history of 200 years’ experience and still bares the name of the founder… you won’t be surprised now to learn that the membership is currently stuck at 30 companies. In the entire world.

So my last trip down to Las Vegas I was recommended this little gem by my good friends at the Double Helix in the Venetian ( www.doublehelixwine.com ). These are my same highly proficient colleagues who introduced me to the Chateau LaFleur St Jean which is right across a country road from Petrus and yet sells for less then $100 USD a bottle… with 3-4 years of cellar age on it~!! So anyways, when these people make a suggestion I perk both my ears and prepare to learn.

the Latour wine-making facility

And opening this bottle was certainly a learning experience. This has balance, structure, precision… in short it has all of the qualities that one could ever hope for from Burgundy and it has them in ample quantity. Best part? It only runs about $50-60 USD so about half the price of what I would pay in British Columbia (the second highest liquor tax in the world).

I knew enough from my FWS (French Wine Scholar) program to know when I smelled, swirled and tasted the wine that it was something special, but it was when I read about the company that I discovered just how unique this really is. Since 1797 the family has been refining their skills as negocients or wine-brokers… but to call them brokers is really a failure in translation as there is so much more then that. This is a family that for 10 generations, from father to son, has bequeathed a legacy of winemaking that has little comparison. For how does one compare any modern winery against this kind of collective wisdom? Centuries of studying their soil, the aspect, the slope, the way the wind flows in Autumn… a thousand minute details collected, organized and put to good use. Who can really hope to equal the Burgundians when it comes to knowing one’s land?

And here is the family, still working the land and honoring tradition whilst being leaders in innovation. Of particular note is their intricate wine-making facility in which all handling of the juice from the grapes is done through gravity to eliminate unnecessary oxidization.

I could go on, but the best proof of a wineries work is still to be found – in the glass~!

2009 Montagny 1er cru “La Grande Roche”

Cote Chalonaise, Cote D’Or, Burgundy

91+ points

soil: limestone, chalk, clay

*NOTE: DO NOT SERVE TOO CHILLED! UNDER 15c/68F WILL INHIBIT AROMAS/FLAVOURS

• This wine sings with precision from the initial aromas to the end of the palate: a textured bouquet of clean hay/almonds/crushed seashell minerality is brilliantly balanced by crisp/lean acids driven by that self-same seashell mineral focus. The structure is impeccable and the length a generous 20-30 seconds… a natural pairing for seafood, but especially richer Oyster Affairs such as the classic Oysters Rockefeller 

As a New World consumer, it’s difficult sometimes to truly understand the Old World systems: premier cru, grande cru, premier classe, vielle vignes, appellation… how do any of these words have bearing on California, Washington or Ontario? Well as a much wiser man explained to me, if wine were art then the French vineyards are Degas, Cezanne or Matisse. The vineyards, and the people who have helped shaped them into what they are, have defined a style of wine-making that all must learn if they are to ever develop their own art. Burgundy and the Cote Chalonnaise are not the be-all/end-all of what Chardonnay is~!

But. But it’s families such as the Latours who inspired people like the Wente clan of California; without whom there would be little in the way of Chardonnay in the New World, and even less quality. It isn’t obligatory to honor these pantheons for their own sake, but respecting centuries of dedication seems the least we New World consumers can do. And so I raise the last of my glass to the great artists of Burgundy and invite you, when you want to taste Old School precision to do the same.

As always, I look forward to your thoughts, comments and questions. Here, or:

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

Famille Perrin; Vinsobres and Rasteau

Many of you know of my recent attempt to achieve something few chefs ever do: the certificate of French Wine Scholar. I unfortunately failed this prestigious program by 1%, and so cannot add the post-nominal FWS... not yet!

And so here we find ourselves, you and I, on this my 200th article! I am not only writing for pleasure tonight, but gearing up (once again) for a renewed and vigerous attack on the FWS program in a few weeks. Wish me luck!

___________________________________________________________________________________

 

   Famille Perrin is known for a great many accomplishments over their span of 5 generations, but perhaps their greatest achievement would be the Chateau de Beaucastel ( http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2010/05/chateauneauf-du-pape-blend-unto-its-own.html ). I had only just started scribing about wine when first I met this cheeky little rascal, and instantly fell in love.

   Well lucky for me, and my bank account, the Famille Perrin (http://m.familleperrin.com/web ) produce significantly less expensive ventures as well, including a diverse portfolio that runs the length and breadth of the Southern Rhone. Tonight I've chosen two examples; Vinsobres and Rasteau.

   Vinsobres is an AOC situated surrounding the parish by the same name, and is one of the newest AOC in France... receiving it's status in 2006. Previously the region was known by most French more for it's olive trees then it's viticulture. But then, the Perrins have always been forward-thinkers. No, Vinsobres is a steep and rocky place where the Mistral brings it's forceful winds to tormet farmers year-round. Here we find a new breed of winemaker, exploring what Syrah and grenache can do in the most northerly area of the Southern Rhone.

the view in Rasteau

   Rasteau is an AOC with a much older history... the recognition of Rasteau comes at about the same time as it's more famous cousin: ChateauNeuf du Pape in 1934. But the little oddity is that, for the most part, Rasteau was known as much if not more for it's fortified wines as it was for it's still wines. In fact, it was only in 2009 that Rasteau could officially use it's AOC designation for still red wines. Previously they had to be labeled as "Cotes  du Rhone Village Rasteau" which, could be considered by some to be a remark of inferred inferiority. But this area has a very similar soil composition to it's more infamous cousin, and in fact culivates and utilizes all of the same varietals as ChateauNeuf as well. Yes, all 13 red varietals that go into the remarkable Beaucastel can be found right here. For about a quarter the price.

So why then spend $100 Canadian on a new vintage of Beaucastel (minimum) when one can purchase a Rasteau for about $25? Well my friends, just because I said that Rasteau is similar - that doesn't mean that it's the same. But for $25... the value is in the glass!

2009 Famille Perrin Les Cornuds, Vinsobres

$25 CAD    90 Points

*IMPORTER: CHARTON-HOBBS www.Charton-Hobbs.com *

60 Hectares, single vineyard
altitude 300 metres+

50% Syrah, 50% grenache

35% aging in French oak, the rest in foudres

• visual:   clean; fully intense purple/garnet core with the barest whisper of a cherry rim
• nose:   clean; this is a fully intense and youthful wine, shouting to the rafters about it's home! Layers of brambly blackberry, tangy black currants (cassis), a definite dark floral note and hints of spice behind the fruit
• palate:   clean; dry, fully intense (red currant) acids, medium+ chewy tannins, medium body, medium+ alcohol (14.5%), fully intense and youthful flavors that mimick well the nose... fruit is still the driving force in this young and vibrant vintage. Very good structure and balance, medium length
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   a cheeky young wine like this either needs a fat cut of beef to side up to, or else should go back into your winerack for a few years. We'll be savoring the next bottle with Syrah braised boneless Alberta beef shortribs on truffled parsnip and potato mash, steamed Swiss chard on the side

**Further reading for the French speaking audience http://www.vinsobres.fr/ **

 2009 Perrin et Fils, Rasteau-Cotes du Rhone Villages

$20+ CAD    89-90 points

south facing parcel

mostly Grenache (80%) with a slight amount of Syrah

• visual:   clear; deep and medium+ intense garnet core with slightest cherry rim
• nose:   clean; youthful and medium+ intense aromas of warm earth, raisins, red currants, slight savory herbs
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ red currant acids, medium grippy tannins, medium body, medium+ to full alcohol (13.5% seems hot), medium+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking the nose with emphasis on fresh young red berries and warm earth, background of savory herbs, dark floral and dark cocoa. Very good structure and balance, medium length
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   consider using this like a fresh Malbec from Argentina; this wine wants a fresh grilled premium steak, topped with a hint of Kosher sea salt and nothing else! These acids crave a little beef, but the medium tannins require a fairly sophisticated cut of meat
• conclusion:   much as the above wine, this vintage craves a few more years in a dark and cool corner to cultivate a deeper understanding of itself. Enjoy 2013-2017

    Both of these wines are splendid examples of Southern Rhone valley terroir; that otherworldly mixture of soil, wind, sun and man. Here are value-priced wines that can actually start to educate the consumer on what this part of the valley is capable of. That in and of itself makes the wines an excellent value in the "Under $30" market. But to add the depth and dimension of flavor, the true craftsmanship with which they are made, these wines should be a welcome addition to almost any cellar.

   Anyone can fill their shelves (and their glass) with 90-point wines. Not everyone can do so at prices like this.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Pouilly-Fume, "Les Cris", Domaine A. Cailbourdin, Loire Valley, France

Let's pretend that you're in Paris; you decide to leave the hustle and bustle of the big city for an afternoon in the country and where better to go then the Loire Valley?? 

   You drive for about an hour or so due south and hit the metropolis of Orleans; famed for it's rich cuisine, crisp wines and beautiful women. Try, if you can, to stay in your car and follow the motorway east... the road follows the Loire river as it meanders east, quickly dipping it's way south. Soon you're heading due south and could easily cross the river for a bite to eat in Sancerre. 

   But let's say that today you decide not to cross the river. Just a kilometer off of the motorway, within a few hundred feet of the river, is the hamlet of Tracy-sur-Loire and it is here that we find the winery Domaine A. Cailbourdin ( www.domaine-cailbourdin.com ). A nicer place for a picnic you would be hard-pressed to find.

  

  The hillside rolls gently down, covered with a rich canopy of grapevines, interspersed with small thickets of forest. Pear trees are hanging heavy with fruit and the perfume of the cherry trees invites one to an afternoon of idolentry; some fresh bread and cured meats, a little block of chevre and a chilled bottle of local Sauvignon Blanc. For that indeed is what varietal is going into the wines of Puilly-Fume, and that is where you have found yourself. 

   And it was only a few decades ago that Alain Cailbourdin found himself in this same spot, looking at the same vines, deciding that it was here that he would build a future. Thus the inception of Domaine Cailbourdin, with some truly vielles vignes  or "aged vines" of 50+ years, and the more recently planting going back to 1980.

Alain Cailbourdin

   Alain built this winery on solid principles; one of the greatest being a respect for the land. In his own words "The art of the winemaking profession consists of giving the grapes every possible opportunity to reveal their qualities."

   Amen Alain!

   Of course, this isn't the first time that I've heard a winemaker say these words. But, in the Loire Valley and in Pouilly-Fume, these words take on a high degree of clarity.

   Some of you reading this will already know that the Fume  part of the name for this region comes from the smokey nuances given to the wines here from the high levels of Silex in the soil. This region produces 100% Sauvignon Blanc, almost 100% of which is fermented and matured in stainless steel. Why is this important? Because this, too, goes to demonstrate the regions strict adherence to allow the land to express itself fully through the varietal.

   But let's return to Alain's words and consider them carefully. Firstly he uses the word "art" most particularly. That could be a point of contention for many people as winemaking can be as much of a craft as an art and, to be brutally honest, we've all had examples that were terribly shy on craft. So then why use the word "art" for a $20 bottle of wine?

   I think that it must be because of the high level of skill used in Alain's vineyards every day to reach the point where the grapes can start to tell their story. One could say that it starts with the trellising (which came first, the trellis or the grape?). Alain has restored a traditional, yet rarely used, method known as Le Cordon de Royat  which is more labor intensive than Guyot simple, yet allows the vine more room for the grapes to expose themselves to sunlight. This allows for greater ripeness, and also reduces the risk of mildew issues.

Sauvignon Blanc grapes

   And should mildew become an issue, how do Alain and his son Loic deal with them? For a winery not certified as organic, the two spend a great deal of time talking about the natural rhythms and patterns of their vineyards; they speak of the care and attention paid to bud-growth in Spring, planting grasses betwixt the rows of vines, of careful canopy management in Spring and Summer... they speak like organic winemakers. They speak with bio-dynamic principles at work in their fields. And why such ardour?

   "because our vineyard constitutes not only our livelihood but our way of life from day to day; it is the heritage we hope to leave our children" says Alain.

   And well how does this families' effort translate into action? As always, the proof is in the glass:

2010 Pouilly-Fume "Les Cris"

$20+ USD

$32+ CAD (BC)

89-90 points 

www.marquis-wines.ca

*previous vintages have scored gold medals at the Concours D'Angers and the Concours Generale Agricole de Paris

*this winery has ranked in the top 150 producers of Sauvignon Blanc  in the world (www.WineSpectator.com)

• visual:   clear; pale straw core with light gold and green highlights
• nose:   clean; medium intense youthful aromas thick with minerality, warm straw, baked apple... very fresh, crisp, clean and precise with the trademark smokey, almost peppery, finish
• palate:   clean; dry, fully intense (yellow grapefruit) acid, moderate- ABV (13%), medium- body,  medium+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking the nose with more emphasis on citrus; lemons, limes, grapefruit, even tangerine are felt. The minerality is tight but opening delightfully. Very good balance, good structure and medium+ length 
• conclusion: whilst already showing well, this still has room to develop. Drink 2012-2015 for best results
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   Sauv blanc is, of course, a natural for fish. Consider a somewhat fatty fish like trout, Artic Char, salmon and the preparation can be as simple as pan-frying with butter! When using a leaner fish and a lean wine like this, consider finishing a hint of cream, such as baked Great Northern Pike with butter-braised leeks, steamed new potatoes and grilled sweet peppers

  

Domaine Cailbourdin

   But now I've painted myself into a corner as-it-were! Here I was talking about technical matters to support a claim for artistry. Perhaps, then, that is where the art is found; in the technical routines that encapsulate this ancient craft. It is art: in calling each of Alain's four plots of land by it's own name (Boisfleury, Les Cris, Les Cornets, Triptyque), so that we can come to sense the differences in soil composition, in aspect and slope, but most of all in place. For it is Alain's wish and, as eonophiles, it is ours as well, that we will come to appreciate as much as he does the place that he calls home.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Marquis Wine Cellars 2012 Media tasting

Anyone who's been reading my wine articles for awhile knows that I hold Marquis Wine Cellar (www.Marquis-wines.com ) in the greatest esteem. To me, they represent the highest echelon of wine-merchants not only in Canada, but in any country I have ever been.

   John Clerides, owner, is a man who makes things happen. John isn't afraid to voice his opinion on wines, on politics or on the local hockey-team. John also isn't afraid to buck the trends and pursue his own path... whereas some merchants here will stock their shelves based off of Robert Parkers scores, John prefers to hire the best staff he can and sends them forth to all corners, sourcing new treasures for admirers of wines, not scores.

   Here is a list of fine wines that John and his brilliantly eloquent staff introduced at their second annual Media tasting at the shop recently:

the whites

n/v Domaine Renaudie, Touraine Sparkling, Loire Valley

Chenin Blanc - Chardonnay  blend

http://www.domainerenaudie.com/

$24, 91 Points

• nose is dry and dusty with rich minerality and light stonefruit qualities, almost a black pepper finish
• palate is crisp, full (yellow grapefruit) acids, frothy mousse, palate mimicks the nose with medium+ concentration and good length
• this wine is a great alternative to Prosecco or Cava for a similar price; well balanced and integrated acids, good structure and concentration this can be enjoyed on its own or with some rich foods. Think fresh BC salmon, butter poached scallops or a pasta with a light cream sauce and fresh peas!

2008 Bruno Colin aligote , Burgundy

$24, 89 Points

• yes, this is the same Bruno Colin who produces beautiful Premier Cru Montrachet  and truly world-class Pinot-Noir
•  ultra pale straw color with silver highlights
•  rich bouquet leaning more towards the dried peach/apricot flavor with a strong savory herbaceous background and light summer floral notes
•  tight, focused, lean, dry with moderate+ to full acids full of lemon and lime flavors but gets a little mono-syllabic... very good concentration just not alot of layering

2010 Jardin Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa

$20, 92 Points

• very funky nose running rampant with a moderate+ concentration of youthful savory herb notes, wild grasses, rocky/granitic minerality. It almost smells like a Languedoc Chardonnay  with it's fresh pear aromas!
• on the palate a super-inviting moderate+ lemon/lime acid, moderate- body, moderate+ concentration of kumquat marmalade and the savory herbs, still has the strong minerality underneath
• maybe not everyone's cuppa-tea, but I find this totally over-delivers. Once again, an excellent find by Marquis staff

2010 Domaine Baudry "3 Coteaux", Chenin Blanc, Chinon, Loire Valley

 $25  , 90+ Points

• 100% Chenin Blanc blended from 3 different vineyard hillsides
• ultra pale honey color
• aromas of dry dusty minerality with a warm earth undercurrant, distinct black pepper finish
• ultra bright, ultra fresh yellow and pink grapefruit acid gives way to straw notes, rich underlying minerality, quince jam. Great concentration!
• good value, but I believe that part of the $25 price is because a white Chinon  is just so rare in the BC market
• also important to note that this is an organic winery family-owned and run since the mid-1400's... these wines can age (yes the whites) for up to 50 years!

2006 Bernard Gripa St Joseph,

northern Rhone Valley

$43, 94+ Points

• Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier
• lush, fully intense and developing bouquet  of layers upon layers of ripe summer flowers, succulent orchardfruit and honeyed stonefruit, gravelly goodness underneath
• palate is awash in yummyness; full, vibrant, youthful acid fantastically well integrated and developing into a truly world-class wine
• lots of room left for this wine to develop further; it represents the region superbly and will reward anyone with the patience to keep from stealing down to the cellar on a daily basis! A must-have for those of you who enjoy Chateau Mussar from Lebannon

2004 Josko Gravner Breg Anfora, friuli Italy

$120, 93-94 Points

• blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Italico and Pinot Grigio
• important to note the peachy/orange-blossom color
• aged on the skins for up to 9 months! A unique technique for a white wine, creating unique aromas and flavor profiles
• on the nose a savory floral quality I'm totally unfamiliar with, moderate concentration but ultra distinct. Now that I've smelled this, I will never confuse it with anything else, nor can I explain it in any other words
• on the palate moderate+ acid, moderate- (grippy) tannin (yes tannins in a white), medium+ concentration of unique savory herbal-floral notes, excellent balance and structure with superbly long lasting flavor

2010 Domaine Huards Rose, Cheverny, Loire Valley

$23, 89 Points

• soft floral, strawberry aromas
• fun and unassuming, this well-put-together wine is full of delightful structure and nuance. This is a deeper, richer, fuller-bodied and drier version then we're used to from most New World wineries, but very much the norm in Old World producer. Good notes of young cherries, raspberries, some roses and cherry blossom

After some truly inspired choices of whites, we were all looking forward to what John might have as a surprise in red wines... I genuinely believe no one could have predicted that someone in BC would be putting Greek wine next to Crozes-Hermitage, but John is a purveyor of goodness in the bottle, and seems indifferent to wine-prejudice. The wines ranged from great to excellent and the Greek wines were as good, if not better, then many I've tried in the States or Europe.

the reds

2010 Tetramythios Agiorgitiko, Greece

$19, 89 Points

• slightly funky, fresh and inviting herbal/fruity nose
• moderate acids with a young cherry tinge, moderate chewy tannin structure, this wine has some good structure and is enjoyable right now
• bright acids make this a natural pairing for lamb; roast, grilled, braised... the fat in lamb always calls out for "high-strung" acid and this wine will play the part perfectly!

2010 Edgebaston Pepper Pot, Stellenbosch, South Africa

$23, 92 Points

• blend of Syrah/Shiraz, Mourvedre and Tennat
• on the nose more of a cooked/stewed tomato, almost a cinnamon quality/warm spice
• acids are well integrated but full intensity (read: mouth-watering), tannin structure comes in much stronger then it feels (because they're already so well integrated as well), great structure, flavor notes similar to the nose
• this is really a food wine! This has style, this has grace... just looking for the right partner for an evening at home... consider this more an Osso Bucco or Beef Wellington wine as it has the structure to go the distance with your more full-bodied dishes. An excellent example in our marketplace of South African wine



Yahn Chave and his son



2007 Yahn Chave Crozes-Hermitage, Northern Rhone Valley

$38, 92+ Points

• 100% Syrah
• beautiful! rich and integrated cherry, cassis, leather, blackberry, savory earth aromas melding seemlessly
• bright, fresh and inviting... medium+ acids, medium- tannins, lighter bodied style
• would pair like a dream with some simple yet well-made charcutterie; think of a basket filled with salami, cured ham, chevre, fresh bread, some pickles and olives. This is the wine that you want in that basket. The only question is: Who are you going to share it with?

2007 Amalie Robert Pinot Noir, Oregon

$42, 92+ Points

• if you like the lighter, more "classical" Burgundian style of Pinot Noir, then this is for you!
• fresh, light+ to medium black currant/black berry acid, medium (rich and vigorous) tannin, everything in check, everything well-balanced with a good structure
• this wine delivers Burgundy quality at half the price. Is it Burgundy? No. No, but it's got that "Burgundy feel" to it and would be a brilliant addition to anyone's cellar. Can age 5 to 7 years gracefully

And just before we left, a little something sweet to send us on our way with a smile.

sweet

2004 Domaine le Mont, Bonnezeaux, Loire Valley, 

late-harvest chenin blanc 

$37, 91 points

• rich perfume of dried stonefruit (apricots), dried hay
• bright and fresh without huge amounts of residual sugar, rich racy acid, strong concentration of those same apricot marmalade flavors without being flabby or heavy
• I would consider this more for people who say that they don't like icewine or late-harvest but are looking for an after-dinner treat

So John Clerides knows how to throw a party, and no doubt about it! We had great wine, succulent little morsels of food, and the room was abuzz with lively conversation. It's a relaxing thing, for a wine-writer, to know that I'm going to a function where I won't have to worry if the wines may or may not be corked. I don't have to worry about whether or not someone is trying to push a $12 wine on me for a $40 pricetag because they think they can get away with it.

   When I step into Marquis Wine Cellars, my shoulders relax; I'm in a very happy place. This was where I came before I knew what Chinon was, or before I knew how to understand when I was tasting minerality in a wine, this was my first adult foray into wine... now I'm lucky enough to be able to go in and discuss Sonoma Pinot Noir vs Willamette Valley. I get to go in and search for good back-vintages of moelleux Loire whites (which my wife adores).  In short, Marquis Wine Cellars has become a fixture in my wine-education and remains so to this day.

   True enough, I may not agree with every comment or suggestion from the staff and management, but folks this is wine: I'll gladly debate with John why I love great Sonoma Pinot Noir and he can't say that I'm wrong because it's all personal taste at a certain point! No one will agree with you on everything, especially not something as specific as wine, but we can all agree that this is a great place to buy it from!

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Domaine de la Sionniere, Moulin-a-Vent

Burgundy, and as a result Beaujolais, has an aspect to its personality that is both a true pleasure and a source of frustration to wine-lovers around the world.

   Burgundy has not only more AOCs then anywhere else in France, it also has perhaps a greater winemaker-density then anywhere else. Actually I take that back, there's no perhaps about it: with some famous plots of land having as many as 70 separate owners over only a few hectares, some owners controlling as little as a couple of rows of vines. No other wine-region is quite like Burgundy in that respect.

   But that's part of the charm, as I said. We grow fond of the small wineries who cherish each curve of the hill reaching for sunlight, each dip in the slope where water accumulates and each glade of trees with it's undeniable  aromas of "sous-bois" as they say.

   There should be a natural inclination towards superior quality in any wine made from such attention, such devotion bordering on affection. Well, there should be superior quality but invariably what results is just superior degrees of variation.

   One region where quality is rarely an issue is Moulin-a-Vent. Tucked into the north-east corner of Beaujolais and bordered by the Saone river racing towards the Mediterranean, Moulin-a-Vent is a pantheon of the region and its wines considered the greatest of Beaujolais. These are wines can age gracefully for 10, 15 and sometimes even 20 years reaching peaks of elegance usually only scaled by the mighty Pinot Noir of the (arguably) more distinguished neighbours to the north.

   How? Why? Some might say (and they would be right) that it's due in large part to the ancient and decomposing granitic topsoil... this topsoil is easy for the vines to penetrate in their youth and encourages them to dig deep. Down, down, down they go to the subsoil sometimes referred to as "gore" which is an accumulation of sand, clay, mica, schist and granite that give the wines their unmistakable mineral edge.

old Manganese mine in Romaneche-Thorins

   And here, in the rural sprawl of vineyards sitting atop these soils, lies the sleepy commune of Romaneche-Thorins. It's small by anyone's standards (population around 800) but the locals are doing big things with Gamay Noir and have been doing so for centuries! One of the secrets to their success is a high concentration of Manganese found only in the local soils... there have even been mines dedicated to its extraction for over a hundred years.

   Now in come Estelle and Thomas Patenotre, owners of the Domaine de la Sionniere (http://www.vins-bernard-perrin.weonea.com/produit/55431/ ). Thomas came to North American attention recently when in 2007 the owner of Domaine Diochon  wanted to retire, but had no heir for the prestigious property. Long-time employee (?) Thomas was offered the honor and, lucky for us, he accepted.

   And so Thomas has brought the ancestral methods of the region roaring back to life in not just one, but two separate properties in Moulin-a-Vent... this is where yields are intentionally kept minimal, vines are left to age to graceful puissance, and the Gamay grape that most often receives scorn in the New Age of wine connoisseurs is aged in oak barrels to promote long-life.

    You doubt that Gamay Noir can develop into something as sophisticated as the great Pinot Noirs  of Burgundy? The proof, as always, is in the glass my friends.

2011 Domaine de la Sionniere , Romaneche-Thorins, Moulin-a-Vent

12 Euro (FRA)

20 pounds (ENG)

$25+ USA (Kermit-Lynch wine merchants)

$20+ CAD (Opimian Society www.opim.ca)

 90 Points

varietal:      100% Gamay Noir a jus blanc

soil:              decomposing granite and schist

vine age:     between 40 and 60 years old

vineyard:   13 HA

training:    goblet

harvesting  100% manual, hand-sorted

maturation  up to 18 months in oak barrels

•  visual:   clear; light ruby core with cherry rim
• nose:   clean; moderate+ to fully intense and youthful aromas of candied red berries (think strawberry compote), a hint of sous-bois or underbrush, mineral tones and a leathery finish
• palate:  clean; dry, moderate red currant acids, moderate+ to full chalky tannins, light body, moderate abv (13%), moderate+ concentration of youthful flavors; explosion of youthful currants, strong mineral undertones and the recent barrel aging is still unruly. Very good balance and structure with medium+ length
• conclusion:   whilst a great wine, this is also terribly immature and so I may or may not being giving justice to the review... best consumed 2015-2021+
• FOOD PAIRINGS:     a perky little wine for a friendly summer day, take this lightly chilled on your next picnic with charcuterie, soft cheese and fresh bread... 

a summer day i n Romaneche-Thorins

   Most of my faithful readership know that I've been singing the praises of northern Beaujolais wines for most of the year. I have found that dollar-for-dollar, the wines from this region are truly competitive on a global level and I am hard-pressed to find their equal anywhere. Domaine de la Sionniere is a fine example; true enough this may be a fairly simple wine right now, but on a Sunday afternoon with your girl and a bit of sunshine, that may be just what the doctor ordered!

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Domaine Billard Pere et Fils, "Les Tavannes" Pommard

I recently saw a photo of Jerome Billard tilling between the vines at one of his vineyard parcels. His son (about 5 years old) was on his lap and it was obvious from the photo that Jerome was explaining things to his son. Domaine Billard Pere et Fils ( http://billardetfils.free.fr/index.html ) ... I read the name on the bottle of wine and thought that it must be another antique winery with a dusty history; filled with remarkable lineages and a family tradition built upon generations.

I didn't realize that it was the story of a man tilling the fields with his 5-year old; starting a new lineage, a new tradition with the newest generation.

Jerome Billard came to purchase his property 15km south of Beaune in the village of Rochepot in 1999. With 17 HA to his name, Jerome had given himself a sizeable amount of work but passion and dedication (always key-words) gave him the energy to devote himself to creating a quality product.

Principles of maximum intervention in the vineyard and minimum intervention in the winery were key to Jerome's early success, both with critics and the public. "Expressing the typicity of the terroir" is the way Jerome explains it.

But what is Pommard, and thus, what is the terroir of Pommard?

We can look at the statistics ( http://www.terroir-france.com/region/burgundy_pommard.htm ) and come to some conclusions, but the essence of terroir is about much more then stats. It's about the people who work the land as much as the land itself... it's about the spirit of a place as much as the composition of the soil.

Pomard is the second largest producer in volume after Beaune, but it's a small place... just over 10 square km it's a blip on the radar, a bump in the road when one drives the infamous Route des Grands Crus. Yes, almost a forgettable town with its single bell tower, and vineyards bereft of Grand Cru status. And a dwindling population.

Pomard's population has dropped by a third in the past 50 years and now is just barely over 500. But this is where Jerome Billard came to start a new life with his wife. This was where he envisioned building a home and future for his family. No Grand Cru vineyards here, 'tis true, but a plethora of Premier Cru that are respected worldwide again for their craftsmanship.

And perhaps Pomard is a bit like Jerome. Pomard was once one of the darlings of Bourgogne (Burgundy) and renown for quality long before the AOC system came into being in 1935, and before it itself received AOC status in 1937. Pomard was an easy to remember name for non-French speakers and for the French it spoke of value.

But then the people began to leave.

A new generation moving to the meccas of Rouen, Lyons, Marseilles and an aging population; not a recipe for success. Slowly, consistently, the work of decades began to erode. Consumer confidence waned and greener pastures were sought... then a renewal! There is a brushfire of excitement about Pommard wines again and if men like the Billards have anything to do with it, the brushfire will soon become a tempest.

Doubt me? The truth, as always, is in the glass my friends.

2010 Domaine Billard Pere et Fils, "Les Tavannes"

Pommard, Bourgogne, France

$50 USD, 

n/a in Canada (except through the Opimian Society www.opim.ca)

93 Points

soil:               stony with clay-lime and calcareous deposits

elevation:    between 250-400 metres

vineyard:    0.22 HA, no use of pesticides/insecticides

varietal:       100% Pinot Noir  

maturation:   15 months in Futs (large barrels), of which one third is new oak

• visual:   clear; light ruby core with cherry rim and slightest brickish tint, no sediment, bright
• nose:   clean; medium+ to fully intense and youthful aromas; bright fresh red berry notes abound with strawberries, ripe raspberries, sweet summer rose-like floral notes
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ to full young raspberry acids, medium fine/soft well integrated tannins, light body, medium- to light abv (13%), medium intense and youthful flavors that mimick well the nose; red berry notes burst with flavor followed by clean mineral tones and the lightest spicy finish. Excellent balance and structure. Long length
• conclusion:   enjoyable in its youth, this will reward another 12-24 months of aging... drink 2013-2016
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   use the bright acidity to open a meal, or serve slightly chilled in the heat of the day... consider rillettes du porc  or confit du canard  served quite simply with fresh bread and seasonal fruit

    I can imagine my wife and I on one of those hilltops that overlook the village of Pommard... we would eat some of that rillettes and bread with a bottle of Jerome's wine and watch our daughter chase butterflies through the cherry trees.  Of course, it's a dream right now... but then again, so was Jerome's vision not so long ago.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!