Il Bisserino; sparkling red wine of Milano



Milano, Italy



When most people think of Milano, Italy, they think of fashion, of culture, of historical edifices. Most think of Milano as one of the great cities of Europe, enshrouded in the Autumn fogs that roll in from the coast.

But they don't think of winemaking. No, most people certainly don't think of that.

Oh it's not that the Milanese don't drink wine (they most assuredly do). The thing is that, up until the (relatively) recent past - for all of Milan's history - there was no local history of great winemaking...

For it was just in 1984 that Milan got it's first officially recognized wine producing region: colle de San Colombano, DOC. A region just south of the city, there has been wine production in these low, rolling hills for centuries upon centuries but, alas, mostly table wine (vino di tavolo). Now in the "Golden Era" of wine, technology is growing by leaps and bounds and eonophiles are quick to jump on board.

Lodi; in which one finds San Colombano

With new trellising methods, better understanding of soil compositions and infinitely cleaner methods of production, even the everyday wines of today are miles beyond what they were only a few decades ago.

Case in point, a charming little frizzante or sparkling wine from Claudio Pozzi: Il Bisserino (http://www.ilbisserino.it/). Fresh, fun, bursting with fruity goodness and a savory edge from the calcareous soils of the region, this is the sparkling wine for the person who adores big juicy reds and swears they abhor Champagne.

Indeed, Claudio and his team are doing something that winemakers the world over are trying to do though not all are succeeding: create value wines with a sense of place. But Claudio doesn't come by his talent honestly, at least, not in the old-fashioned sense of the term. Claudio never grew up in the vineyards and his father never taught him how to crush grapes. He is the first of his name to enter the winemaking arena and, in fact, still maintains another career.

So then to what can we attribute this wineries competent line of wines, at reasonable prices, with a sense of joy and characteristics of skill? Well if it's not inherited skill then it must be cultivated skill~! And where do we most often derive cultivated skills from? From passion!

Claudio speaks of the wonder and beauty he derives from his new craft, of a desire to create a vineyard that works with farming practices that have a true sense of purpose rather then blindly following an organic system to "sell more labels". To call Claudio a visionary would be stretching the truth, but rather let me say that in My Humble Opinion, Claudio Pozzi is doing what I hope all winemakers can aspire to: a truly Henry Ford style of business.

 "There is one rule for the industrialist and that is: Make the best quality of goods possible at the lowest cost possible, paying the highest wages possible"

2007 Il Bisserino Vin de Milan, San Colombano DOC

$20+ USD (the Tamalpais Wine Agency of California)

not widely available in Canada

89-90 points

vine age:   35+ years

vineyard size:   2.5 HA

altitude:    100 metres

soil:          clay silt

varietals:    Croatina 40% -Barbera 35%-Uva Rara 15%-Cabernet Sauvignon 10%

harvesting:   manual, end of September

vinification:   8-10 days maceration in stainless steel. Malolactic fermentation

• visual:   clear; deep plum garnet core with light cherry rim, small amount of tiny pearl bubbles
• nose:    clean; moderate+ intense youthful aromas of candied cherry, blackberry, red currant, dark cherry blossom characteristics, some violets
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (red currant) acids, moderate+ (chalky) tannins, moderate- body, moderate- alcohol (13.5%), moderate intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose; candy notes are gone and replaced by savory earthy tones, warm brambleberry/saskatoon flavors, lean graphite minerality and a crisp red currant finish... almost drinks like a young Morgon or Moulin-a-Vent. Very good balance and structure, medium length
• conclusion: already almost 6 years old, this wine is still in the prime of life and easily has another 3-5 years left but will not develop appreciably
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   much as Claudio says on his website, this wine will cosy up to a plate of cured salami and provolone cheese with delight, but I thought to take this one step further. What about prosciutto, prawn and chevre pizza? The salt of the prosciutto plays off the sweet fruit on the nose, the prawns will delight in the cherry flavors and the chevre will enhance the natural earthy tones!

Take a gander through the Il Bisserino website, or read some of Claudio Pozzi's interviews, and you will come to understand how that man came to this industry as an outsider. But, as an outsider, has no issue with "bucking the system" and throwing outdated traditions out the window. Claudio's staff are well paid, his lands are well taken care of, and his business model is sound. To me, this is the winning combination that will allow his grandchildren the luxury of learning the winemaking industry the old-fashioned way...

They'll learn it from their grandfather.

The proof my friend? As always, in the glass!

I look forward to your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Citerna Nero di Troia or Uva di Troia

I love a good deal; a good deal on a suit, a good deal on a flight, or a good deal on a bottle of wine.

I adore a good deal on a great bottle of wine~!!!

Recently I had the good fortune to win an auction for a modestly priced back-vintage of an obscure varietal: Nero di Troia which runs by the pseudonyms Uva di Troia, Uva di Canosa, Uva di Barletta, Uva della Marina, Troiano, Tranese and also Sumarello. A heck of a lot of names for a wine that 20 years ago only had a half-dozen single varietal bottlings. Period.

Well much research has gone into this Puglian grape recently, and the number of single-varietal bottlings has grown to over 80. Certainly, in the grand scheme of Italian wines, this makes it still an obscurity to say the least, but Puglia is taking interest in it's heritage. The Nero di Troia has been planted in "the heel of the boot" for centuries, but has remained a blending varietal for most of that time: this is a grape that tends towards high tannin structure and harvests late in the season. Oh, it has it's benefits as well; (otherwise I doubt it would have lasted) most notably a generous yield and resistance to many diseases, but this was a grape that needed someone to devote some time to it before it would yield it's secrets.

Secrets? Yes... Nero likes it's yields kept low, it needs to ripen fully, and loves a touch of altitude when planted. And it was the professor Luigi Moio of the University of Naples who devoted himself due to the generous benefactors Tenuta Rasciatano. And when the professor opened this door into a new and evolved version of Nero, the winery Tenuta was one of the first to reap the rewards.

Gone was the erstwhile varietal full of over-eager tannins and green herbaceous tones, and in it's place a fresh yet balanced fruit-laden wine brimming with an approachable sense of place. And all for a reasonable price.

Bravo professor~!

2007 Citerna Nero di Troia, Puglia IGT

by Alberto Longo www.AlbertoLongo.it

$10 USD+tax, Tamalpais Wine Agency of Richmond, CA

$25 CAD (not widely available)

89+ points

soil type:    loamy sand texture, mostly calcereous

vines:      single vineyard, family owned'

harvesting:   machine

altitude:    500 metres+

vinification:   cold soak maceration of 10 days usually (kept short to avoid excessive tannins)

maturation:   3 months+ in stainless steel, then 3 months+ in concrete vats, then 3 months+ in bottle

• visual:   clean; fully intense garnet core (much like Nero D'Avola) with slight bricking to the rim after 5 years
• nose:   clean; medium+ intense and developed aromas of drying cherries, graphite backbone, bramble fruit, dark flowers... a wine starting to speak of maturity, but in an elegant manner
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (red and black cherry) acids, moderate+ (chewy, sustained) tannins, moderate+ body, moderate+ to full alcohol (13% ABV), moderate+ intense and developed/ing flavors that mimick the nose; bright red fruit dominate the beginning of this charming table wine, a strong sense of place comes from the mineral/graphite tones that follow, which is summed up by the drying nuances of cherry and floral. Very good structure and balance, moderate length
• conclusion:   an excellent buy for it's price (in the US), this is still a table wine - just a good one. This can cellar well for up to 5,6 or even 10 years from date of bottling but will start to lose force after 5 or 6.
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   soft like a Merlot, yet full of vigor like a Malbec, this is a wine I've not experienced before but plan to delve into as often as I can~! When you find a bottle with a few years of age, consider enjoying it on it's own, or with simple charcutterie (cold cuts and cheeses). In it's youth I would pair this with rich beef dishes such as braised oxtail stew or a beef and wild mushroom canneloni... the vivid tannins will appreciate the counter play!

In ancient times it was the hero Diomedes who conquered the legendary city of Troy. He left the smoldering ruins and crossed the (at the time) vast sea to come to hills of Puglia, settling in what became the town of Troia. Some would surmise that he would have carried treasure, and most certainly would have brought food and wine for the voyage. Maybe, just maybe, he also brought a few clippings from local grapevines.

Maybe, and maybe not, but it makes a good story. No matter what the story is behind the history of Nero di Troia, we can be assured that whilst vintners like Alberto Longo are producing quality like this, there will most certainly be a future for it.

You doubt me dear friend? The proof, as always, is in the glass!

Many thanks to wikipedia and Sally Easton, MW at www.WineWisdom.com for their research. I look forward to your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Famille Perrin; Vinsobres and Rasteau

Many of you know of my recent attempt to achieve something few chefs ever do: the certificate of French Wine Scholar. I unfortunately failed this prestigious program by 1%, and so cannot add the post-nominal FWS... not yet!

And so here we find ourselves, you and I, on this my 200th article! I am not only writing for pleasure tonight, but gearing up (once again) for a renewed and vigerous attack on the FWS program in a few weeks. Wish me luck!

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   Famille Perrin is known for a great many accomplishments over their span of 5 generations, but perhaps their greatest achievement would be the Chateau de Beaucastel ( http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2010/05/chateauneauf-du-pape-blend-unto-its-own.html ). I had only just started scribing about wine when first I met this cheeky little rascal, and instantly fell in love.

   Well lucky for me, and my bank account, the Famille Perrin (http://m.familleperrin.com/web ) produce significantly less expensive ventures as well, including a diverse portfolio that runs the length and breadth of the Southern Rhone. Tonight I've chosen two examples; Vinsobres and Rasteau.

   Vinsobres is an AOC situated surrounding the parish by the same name, and is one of the newest AOC in France... receiving it's status in 2006. Previously the region was known by most French more for it's olive trees then it's viticulture. But then, the Perrins have always been forward-thinkers. No, Vinsobres is a steep and rocky place where the Mistral brings it's forceful winds to tormet farmers year-round. Here we find a new breed of winemaker, exploring what Syrah and grenache can do in the most northerly area of the Southern Rhone.

the view in Rasteau

   Rasteau is an AOC with a much older history... the recognition of Rasteau comes at about the same time as it's more famous cousin: ChateauNeuf du Pape in 1934. But the little oddity is that, for the most part, Rasteau was known as much if not more for it's fortified wines as it was for it's still wines. In fact, it was only in 2009 that Rasteau could officially use it's AOC designation for still red wines. Previously they had to be labeled as "Cotes  du Rhone Village Rasteau" which, could be considered by some to be a remark of inferred inferiority. But this area has a very similar soil composition to it's more infamous cousin, and in fact culivates and utilizes all of the same varietals as ChateauNeuf as well. Yes, all 13 red varietals that go into the remarkable Beaucastel can be found right here. For about a quarter the price.

So why then spend $100 Canadian on a new vintage of Beaucastel (minimum) when one can purchase a Rasteau for about $25? Well my friends, just because I said that Rasteau is similar - that doesn't mean that it's the same. But for $25... the value is in the glass!

2009 Famille Perrin Les Cornuds, Vinsobres

$25 CAD    90 Points

*IMPORTER: CHARTON-HOBBS www.Charton-Hobbs.com *

60 Hectares, single vineyard
altitude 300 metres+

50% Syrah, 50% grenache

35% aging in French oak, the rest in foudres

• visual:   clean; fully intense purple/garnet core with the barest whisper of a cherry rim
• nose:   clean; this is a fully intense and youthful wine, shouting to the rafters about it's home! Layers of brambly blackberry, tangy black currants (cassis), a definite dark floral note and hints of spice behind the fruit
• palate:   clean; dry, fully intense (red currant) acids, medium+ chewy tannins, medium body, medium+ alcohol (14.5%), fully intense and youthful flavors that mimick well the nose... fruit is still the driving force in this young and vibrant vintage. Very good structure and balance, medium length
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   a cheeky young wine like this either needs a fat cut of beef to side up to, or else should go back into your winerack for a few years. We'll be savoring the next bottle with Syrah braised boneless Alberta beef shortribs on truffled parsnip and potato mash, steamed Swiss chard on the side

**Further reading for the French speaking audience http://www.vinsobres.fr/ **

 2009 Perrin et Fils, Rasteau-Cotes du Rhone Villages

$20+ CAD    89-90 points

south facing parcel

mostly Grenache (80%) with a slight amount of Syrah

• visual:   clear; deep and medium+ intense garnet core with slightest cherry rim
• nose:   clean; youthful and medium+ intense aromas of warm earth, raisins, red currants, slight savory herbs
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ red currant acids, medium grippy tannins, medium body, medium+ to full alcohol (13.5% seems hot), medium+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking the nose with emphasis on fresh young red berries and warm earth, background of savory herbs, dark floral and dark cocoa. Very good structure and balance, medium length
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   consider using this like a fresh Malbec from Argentina; this wine wants a fresh grilled premium steak, topped with a hint of Kosher sea salt and nothing else! These acids crave a little beef, but the medium tannins require a fairly sophisticated cut of meat
• conclusion:   much as the above wine, this vintage craves a few more years in a dark and cool corner to cultivate a deeper understanding of itself. Enjoy 2013-2017

    Both of these wines are splendid examples of Southern Rhone valley terroir; that otherworldly mixture of soil, wind, sun and man. Here are value-priced wines that can actually start to educate the consumer on what this part of the valley is capable of. That in and of itself makes the wines an excellent value in the "Under $30" market. But to add the depth and dimension of flavor, the true craftsmanship with which they are made, these wines should be a welcome addition to almost any cellar.

   Anyone can fill their shelves (and their glass) with 90-point wines. Not everyone can do so at prices like this.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Tinhorn Creek Winery, 2012 releases

Regular followers of my articles know of my pride in BC winemakers and the culture that has sprung up around them over the past few decades. In 1998 in BC there were about 3 dozen wineries, 33 to be precise. In 2012 the count is closer to 240, give or take.

   From 33 to 240 wineries in less then a generation; a growth of 600%.

the vista at Tinhorn Creek

   But it's not just the changes in the amount of wine produced and consumed that has  that really makes me pause; it is the style and calibre of wine that has evolved at the same time that makes me pause for breath. Just ask the crew at Tinhorn Creek! www.Tinhorn.com

    These guys have been around for all of this change, and have more often then not been leading the charge! Kenn Oldfield bought this property in the early 1990's, which had already been planted with grape vines in the 1960's. In local terms this means it is ancient. And if I can remember all of this, how ancient would that make me??

   Regardless of your age, whether it's the bloom of youth or the gentleness of maturity, all are watching Tinhorn continue to lead the foray into a deeper, fuller exploration of our BC terroir. I was fortunate enough to do my portfolio tasting this year with Korol Kulko, assistant winemaker, who has been developing her skill-set and knowledge of the region's diversity over 15 years with Tinhorn.

2012 Release

2011 Pinot Gris

91 points

$18 / Tinhorn Crush Club $15.25~!!!

• 30% put through malo-lactic fermentation (or degradation as some winemakers will call it), then fermented in 100% stainless steel barrels. The barrels are approximately barrique size *225 L) if memory serves and the winery uses this specifically to increase the amount of lees contact. The lees are then stirred weekly to give more dimension both in flavors and texture
• lees contact is noticed immediately on the nose in beautifully rich toasty-brioche-bread like notes reminiscent of non-vintage sparkling French wine, with soft stonefruit filling out the edges
• balanced yet vivid acids with a creamy mouth-feel, fruit tones are lively and create a "little-too-easy-to-drink" summer wine

2011 Chardonnay
89 points
$18 / Tinhorn Crush Club $15.25~!!!

• 100% malo-lactec
• 15% in New French oak, stirring of lees twice/week for 3 months
• on the nose; clean minerality and under-ripe pineapple, papaya
• on the palate; zippy acids well balanced by the big-mouth feel. An easy to understand, direct version of Chardonnay that can still articulate where it came from.

    Korol and I spoke briefly about what 2011 had been like as a growing season; cool, long and drawn-out without much of the blazing heat that the south Okanagan is known for in Summer. Korol remarked "If we knew going into each year that it was going to be like that, we could plan for it and make specific decisions to capitalize on it."

   I responded that many of the winemakers I'ld been speaking to over the past few months had been vocal about facing the same challenges with 2011 and more then a few had voiced: "2011 will separate the professionals from the amateurs". 

   I had already been convinced which group Tinhorn belonged to, and I had many more wines to go~!

2011 2-Bench white   (Chardonnay, Semillion, Muscat, Viognier)
90 points
$23 / $19.50 Crush Club

•  non malo-lactic, but still the use of some small stainless steel tanks for increased lees contact
• on the nose; the exotics of pineapple and papaya and softened by a light summer floral touch from the Viognier, and then an exquisite, slightly sweet, ripe stonefruit finish
• on the palate this wine is all about food; lighter in style with pronounced acidity and true dimension to the mineral/fruit tones this can pair well with poultry, wild fowl, seafood, a whole host of cheeses and cheese dishes. As a chef/wine steward this is paradise in a bottle... many wines claim to pair well with a variety of foods. This wine doesn't claim to, it just does!
• as a note, the acids on this vintage are pronounced to the point of being slightly aggressive... this wine will age well for several years and will be drinking more smoothly even by Spring 2013

   And while I had tasted several vintages of Tinhorn releases, this was my first year up to stay at the property. My wife and daughter and I walked the vineyard as the sun was going down the night before and had enjoyed the cooling breezes that came down the hillside. Walking through the steep rows of vines, I was taken by the emphasis on growing wild grasses between the rows and the attention to plantings of indigenous herbs and brush nearby. Korol spoke as to how, though there were some practices at the vineyard that could be interpreted as being bio-dynamic in nature, that wasn't a direction that Tinhorn was moving in at the present.

   Their current project of switching to drip-irrigation has been more then enough to keep them occupied! But it does reap a whirlwind of benefits including a dramatic reduction in mold issues, rootstock that digs deeper on a yearly basis, and great cost savings on the water bill (not to mention the environmental kudos!).

 2011 Rose

90+ points

$22, $19.50 crush club

• 100% Cab Franc
• on the nose; a rich cacophony of wild floral,
• on the palate; light salmon color, this wine has striking acidity which makes it a natural for food pairings and hot summer afternoons. Dry, savory, this is the rose for red-wine drinkers!
• I have to add, what a great way to start a meal... if you imagine a long day of work, and all of the palate-fatigue we face with take-out food, too much coffee, etc, etc... a crisp, full-bodied rose is an excellent way to excite and awaken the palate

2011 Gewurztraminer
89 points
$18, $15.25 crush club!

• on the nose; typical Gewurztraminer roses, lychee, grapefruit with a strong mineral undercurrant
• on the palate; atypically crisp, clean, vibrant... almost racy, the acids are balanced but full of vigor. Strong mineral flavors balance the varietals natural tendancy to sweeter fruit flavors
• definitely a cool-climate wine! on the drier style at only 9 grams/L residual sugar

  
2011 Kerner Icewine
91 points
$30, $25 crush-club

• on the nose a fully intense candied apple, caramel, floral background
• the palate comes in crisp and full of lively acids that balance a stunningly rich and layered concentration of fruit flavors

   Korol then shared a story with me about the wildly delicious Pinot Noir that I  adore.  There is alot of Pinot grown here in BC, and with good reason I believe... some of our winemakers have produced high 90-point wines in recent years and I personally feel that there are more of those numbers to come. We have a staggering amount of talent for such a small wine-producing region, and Tinhorn Creek certainly fits in well with the upper-echelon of the province.

    Tinhorn faced a common issue with wineries; when to sell the wine. Some wineries will  sell their wine as soon as it comes out of the barrel, and try to make a reasonably quick return on investment. The challenge with this is that many wines need some time in bottle to mature before they drink their best... some wines may only need 6 months, and some Barolos arguably need 10 years or longer. But who should pay for the storage? Who should pay for the time?

   Often-times it is only the more established wineries who are on their second or third or thirteenth generation of owners who can afford such "luxury". The winemaking staff felt so strongly about the quality and potential quality of their Pinot Noir that they pitched the idea to the financial team to hold the wine for three years. A tough concept for a relatively new winery which only starting making profit just over a decade ago... but the winemakers were firm and they got their three years.

   The result? You know where to find that...

2009 Pinot Noir
91+ points
$ 20, $18 crush club

• a sumptously layered chewy red wine just entering the prime of life... this wine has years of development still ahead of it. Great balance and concentration, both Korol and I noted that the south Okanagan wild herbs were present in the bouquet and palate
• this wine is light enough to enjoy slightly chilled in the heat of summer and yet has enough presence to appreciate in the middle of a Vancouver winter; 4 degrees and pouring rain this would be mighty cozy whilst sitting next to the fireplace

   So it's obvious that I'm biased when it comes to Tinhorn Creek wines; I like them, plain and simple.

indigenous flora at Tinhorn Creek

   But why shouldn't I?? I like great wines, and I LOVE them if I can get them at a reasonable price. Tinhorn Creek delivers that , and, quite frankly overdelivers. If this tasting wasn't proof enough, then feel free to read my previous articles recounting other encounters with this BC gem.

http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2011/07/tinhorn-creek-vineyards.html

http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2010/05/many-joys-of-tinhorn-creek-bc.html

http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2011/08/tinhorn-creek-cabernet-franc-okanagan.html

http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2010/05/late-harvest-wine-in-spring.html

 

As always, I truly look forward to your comments and questions.

SLAINTE (gaelic)   =   CINCIN (italian)   =   CHEERS~!!!

Pouilly-Fume, "Les Cris", Domaine A. Cailbourdin, Loire Valley, France

Let's pretend that you're in Paris; you decide to leave the hustle and bustle of the big city for an afternoon in the country and where better to go then the Loire Valley?? 

   You drive for about an hour or so due south and hit the metropolis of Orleans; famed for it's rich cuisine, crisp wines and beautiful women. Try, if you can, to stay in your car and follow the motorway east... the road follows the Loire river as it meanders east, quickly dipping it's way south. Soon you're heading due south and could easily cross the river for a bite to eat in Sancerre. 

   But let's say that today you decide not to cross the river. Just a kilometer off of the motorway, within a few hundred feet of the river, is the hamlet of Tracy-sur-Loire and it is here that we find the winery Domaine A. Cailbourdin ( www.domaine-cailbourdin.com ). A nicer place for a picnic you would be hard-pressed to find.

  

  The hillside rolls gently down, covered with a rich canopy of grapevines, interspersed with small thickets of forest. Pear trees are hanging heavy with fruit and the perfume of the cherry trees invites one to an afternoon of idolentry; some fresh bread and cured meats, a little block of chevre and a chilled bottle of local Sauvignon Blanc. For that indeed is what varietal is going into the wines of Puilly-Fume, and that is where you have found yourself. 

   And it was only a few decades ago that Alain Cailbourdin found himself in this same spot, looking at the same vines, deciding that it was here that he would build a future. Thus the inception of Domaine Cailbourdin, with some truly vielles vignes  or "aged vines" of 50+ years, and the more recently planting going back to 1980.

Alain Cailbourdin

   Alain built this winery on solid principles; one of the greatest being a respect for the land. In his own words "The art of the winemaking profession consists of giving the grapes every possible opportunity to reveal their qualities."

   Amen Alain!

   Of course, this isn't the first time that I've heard a winemaker say these words. But, in the Loire Valley and in Pouilly-Fume, these words take on a high degree of clarity.

   Some of you reading this will already know that the Fume  part of the name for this region comes from the smokey nuances given to the wines here from the high levels of Silex in the soil. This region produces 100% Sauvignon Blanc, almost 100% of which is fermented and matured in stainless steel. Why is this important? Because this, too, goes to demonstrate the regions strict adherence to allow the land to express itself fully through the varietal.

   But let's return to Alain's words and consider them carefully. Firstly he uses the word "art" most particularly. That could be a point of contention for many people as winemaking can be as much of a craft as an art and, to be brutally honest, we've all had examples that were terribly shy on craft. So then why use the word "art" for a $20 bottle of wine?

   I think that it must be because of the high level of skill used in Alain's vineyards every day to reach the point where the grapes can start to tell their story. One could say that it starts with the trellising (which came first, the trellis or the grape?). Alain has restored a traditional, yet rarely used, method known as Le Cordon de Royat  which is more labor intensive than Guyot simple, yet allows the vine more room for the grapes to expose themselves to sunlight. This allows for greater ripeness, and also reduces the risk of mildew issues.

Sauvignon Blanc grapes

   And should mildew become an issue, how do Alain and his son Loic deal with them? For a winery not certified as organic, the two spend a great deal of time talking about the natural rhythms and patterns of their vineyards; they speak of the care and attention paid to bud-growth in Spring, planting grasses betwixt the rows of vines, of careful canopy management in Spring and Summer... they speak like organic winemakers. They speak with bio-dynamic principles at work in their fields. And why such ardour?

   "because our vineyard constitutes not only our livelihood but our way of life from day to day; it is the heritage we hope to leave our children" says Alain.

   And well how does this families' effort translate into action? As always, the proof is in the glass:

2010 Pouilly-Fume "Les Cris"

$20+ USD

$32+ CAD (BC)

89-90 points 

www.marquis-wines.ca

*previous vintages have scored gold medals at the Concours D'Angers and the Concours Generale Agricole de Paris

*this winery has ranked in the top 150 producers of Sauvignon Blanc  in the world (www.WineSpectator.com)

• visual:   clear; pale straw core with light gold and green highlights
• nose:   clean; medium intense youthful aromas thick with minerality, warm straw, baked apple... very fresh, crisp, clean and precise with the trademark smokey, almost peppery, finish
• palate:   clean; dry, fully intense (yellow grapefruit) acid, moderate- ABV (13%), medium- body,  medium+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking the nose with more emphasis on citrus; lemons, limes, grapefruit, even tangerine are felt. The minerality is tight but opening delightfully. Very good balance, good structure and medium+ length 
• conclusion: whilst already showing well, this still has room to develop. Drink 2012-2015 for best results
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   Sauv blanc is, of course, a natural for fish. Consider a somewhat fatty fish like trout, Artic Char, salmon and the preparation can be as simple as pan-frying with butter! When using a leaner fish and a lean wine like this, consider finishing a hint of cream, such as baked Great Northern Pike with butter-braised leeks, steamed new potatoes and grilled sweet peppers

  

Domaine Cailbourdin

   But now I've painted myself into a corner as-it-were! Here I was talking about technical matters to support a claim for artistry. Perhaps, then, that is where the art is found; in the technical routines that encapsulate this ancient craft. It is art: in calling each of Alain's four plots of land by it's own name (Boisfleury, Les Cris, Les Cornets, Triptyque), so that we can come to sense the differences in soil composition, in aspect and slope, but most of all in place. For it is Alain's wish and, as eonophiles, it is ours as well, that we will come to appreciate as much as he does the place that he calls home.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

a Master-level lecture on Burgundy by Pierre-Henry Gagey of Maison Louis Jadot

Faithful readers will remember that I was recently honored by being invited to  guest sommelier at the Post Hotel ( http://www.posthotel.com ) for their annual Wine Summit ( http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2012/07/post-hotel-wine-summit-2012.html )

Pierre-Henry Gagey (thanks to WineTerroir.com)

   I could go into detail again and again about the majesty of the setting; the backdrop of rugged Rocky Mountains still capped in snow at the end of May (it snowed twice during the 3 days I was there). I could recant tales of sitting indolently in the smoking lounge; enjoying a brilliantly well-kept Cohiba and sipping aged Gran Marnier whilst reading a new novel. I could even wax poetic about the brilliantly executed service in every department of that luxurious, yet truly comfortable, hotel.

   I could, but we'ld be here all day and I wouldn't get to talk about meeting Pierre-Henry Gagey, President of Maison Louis Jadot ( www.LouisJadot.com ).

   So the tiniest bit of back-story just for context; Maison Louis Jadot was a family owned and run winery from the mid 1800's until 1985. At that time the matriarch of the family decided to sell interest in the company to 3 major shareholders as she had no heir. These were the three daughters of the Kopf family, who had been instrumental in the continued development of Louis Jadot as a brand, especially in America. At this point Pierre's father was the incumbent Director of the winery and had a more then able assistant winemaker, and Pierre had just come on-board the year previous. Pierre had made his way in the world in a completely different industry before starting to follow in his father's footsteps but, in his own words, "it has brought me a perspective on the world of wine that I would not have had otherwise".

   Having had more then one career before turning to wine and wine-journalism, I can understand that on a profound level. I found I understood a lot more about Pierre and his thoughts on wine then I expected going into the lecture... I'm not sure what it was I had expected, but I'm certain I wasn't the only one surprised to genuinely like him so much!

   It was easy to like Pierre; quick-to-smile and rarely a negative word crossing his lips, his eyes full of mischief as he talks about tramping through the vineyards... the following is a recounting of that, as co-host Anthony Gismondi ( www.GismondionWine.com ) called it, "Master-class on Burgundy and Burgundian Wines".

  Mr Gismondi (Tony as he likes to be called) started by recanting a tale of his first visit to Maison Louis Jadot and what was supposed to be a modest sampling of vintages before the evening meal... the tasting started at about 7 pm with 30 white wines from different vineyard sites. Just when Tony thought that they were nearing the end and could move on to dinner (about 9 pm now) out comes Pierre with 30 different reds! Needless to say, dinner was a glimmer on the horizon not realized until very late in the evening.

   Pierre-Henry will tell you with genuine enthusiasm about his work; he is a Burgundian making wine in Burgundy. What's noteworthy about that you ask? Well, truth be told, flying winemakers are everywhere these days and Burgundy is not without it's fair share... Italians, Germans, Australians, Americans, people from across the globe have re-discovered their love for these wines and are coming to try their hand at crafting Burgundian elegance. But Pierre was born here, and loves to find ways to let this land tell it's own story.

   In his words "My family has been in Burgundy for many generations and this is what we have been doing. So making Burgundian wine is in our blood... I try not to think too much about it. I respect the grape and try to give to the people who drink our wine some of the landscape."

  Pierre then launched into a brief history of the region; speaking of the legacy of winemaking in Burgundy that stretches back over 2000 years. "Of course," he says, "back then we didn't know how to make wine! But we learned. We learned from our cousins in Italy who settled here. And we started with Pinot Noir, which is everything. Pinot Noir was one of the first grapes, and it is the base of everything."

   He then cautioned about the necessity in Burgundy to keep the varietal as pure as possible, and not get overzealous with mutations. Clones are a necessity, of course, when considering planting a Burgundian vine in another land. But in Burgundy, the vines have naturally selected themselves into something beautiful and respect must be given to that.

  
2009 Domaine J.A. Ferret, "Les Clos", Tet de Cru, Pouilly-Fuisse

$30 USD
this is from a 1 HA site; single vineyard

Pierre starts by praising the 2009 vintage as not only being a great vintage for Burgundy, but indeed for most of Europe. "You would have to be an idiot, not to make a great wine this year". But for Burgundy what makes a great vintage is (to Pierre) a great month of September. "You don't want to have too much sunshine because the Pinot Noir is a fragile creature and when it gets too much sunlight the sugars start to rise. The best is good sunlight, light breezes and low moisture: it allows the grape to maintain it's acidity while still developing flavors."

• this was the first Domaine in the area to start bottling their own wines over 100 years ago. The estate has been owned and managed solely by women ever since and Pierre has been trying to purchase land in this area for over 20 years... he was unsuccessful until 2005 and is very excited to have this 13 HA addition to his portfolio. Maison Jadot has continued the traditions practiced here, and has hired a young 29-year old female vineyard manager to oversee production.
• "this is very different from the Cote de Beaune" he continues, "this is very friendly, very inviting. Of course there is minerality; there is tension, precision, purity."

Mr Gismondi then posed the question to Pierre "How do you approach winemaking when you have, let's say, 5 sites all within a few kilometres of each other?"

Pierre's response: "The idea of Burgundy (as concerns wine) is that the  winemaker should always be in the background, never in front. And really, this is the concept of terroir. It is a combination of elements that are crafted by the winemaker... in Burgundy, yes, we could blend our wines (from different sites) together and we know that we would make great wine. We know this! But would lose our identity, we would lose why Burgundy is so unique."

2009 Mersault (blanc)

$55+ USD

•  total production 6000 cases
• produced from multiple growers and multiple sites (some quite famous)
• Pierre reluctantly acknowledges that "this wine is as good, if not better, then anything that Maison Jadot is making from it's own vineyards..."
• 10% new oak, fermentation in barrel. Different use of oak for 1er Cru (30%) and Grand Cru (up to 50%)
•  malo-lactic fermentation (degradation in Pierre's words) is avoided, or slowed, by storing the wine in as cool of a cellar as possible. Pierre is staunchly against acidification of his wines

2009 Domaine Gagey, "Le Clos Blanc", 1er Cru, "Greves", Beaune

$60+ USD  

• this planting was started by Pierre's grandfather with vine-cuttings from Montrachet
• "we think that the pleasure in this wine is in it's subtlety, that it is discreet. But - precise!"
• he continues by explaining why he thinks Burgundy can make such stunning examples of place: "we are lucky in Burgundy, because we have been studying our vineyards for 500 years... many places cannot say that but we can. it makes all the difference to know our soil like this"

2009 Domaine Duc de Magenta, 1er Cru, "Clos de la Garenne", Puligny-Montrachet

$70+ USD

•  the family that produces this wine for Maison Jadot has a long relationship with the company and produces (2) wines for them, the other being Chassagne-Montrachet
• 2 HA; single vineyard
• Pierre was asked how much control Maison Jadot has over the producers: when they pick, at what ripeness, how careful is the sorting, etc. Pierre's response: "very little actually. It is a relationship of trust; some of these growers we have been working with for 30, 40 years. They understand our needs, our level of quality, and respect the trust we put in them."

2009 Domaine de Heritiers Louis Jadot, Grand Cru, "Corton-Charlemagne"

$90++ USD 

• the largest of the 6 Grand Cru of Beaune at approximately 50 HA
• this is from a 2.5 HA plot (southern exposure) that Maison Jadot bought almost 100 years ago
• when asked as to what kind of "style" Maison Jadot is trying to create, Pierre responds: "when I'm asked about style I think of my friend who makes Champagne... we are not interested in style, we are looking for character which is more accurate for us.  The lees for example are very important; the lees feed the wine. So we keep some lees."
• Pierre continues to speak of this particular wine "You can feel that this is different in the mouth; a little fuller, a different vibration. We don't have the words for this but we know that it is different and is on a different level."
 

2009 Chateau des Jacques, "Clos du Grand Carquelin", Moulin-a-Vent

$35++ USD

• this was a great experience for me; to see a Bourgogne winemaker putting Beaujolais in the same portfolio tasting as Premier Cru Beaune and Grand Cru Chambertin. Loyal readers know of my personal love and professional respect for the great winemakers of Northern Beaujolais. I think they often get lumped-in with winemakers of another level of quality who produce "Beaujolais Nouveau"... which is not to say that all Beaujolais Nouveau is poor quality, but the great Nouveaus are rare. Whereas great quality Morgon, Fleurie and Moulin-a-Vent  abound!
• Pierre is very excited about northern Beaujolais as well, in large part because "the Beaujolais area is having a very tough time. They are having a tough time because the quality has been mediocre over the past 30, 40 years. Which is a pity because the Gamay grape, grown on the granitic soil (which is very different from Burgundy clay and marl soil) can produce very good wine."
• Pierre and his father came to this property in 1986 and recognized it's potential for greatness immediately. In Pierre's words "sometimes you just stand in a place and you know it has the potential to produce greatness"
• Under previous ownership there had been two labels; the upper-echelon named "vielles vignes" or "old-vines". Pierre isn't interested in labels such as this (nor Reserve, Special Reserve, etc) even though the vine-age is now between 30 and 50 years old, and so with his father broke the vineyard down to 5 specific sites, each with their own characteristics including this site with a particularly high proportion of Manganese
• at this point Pierre even invited the audience to "play a trick" on their friends: "take a bottle of 2009 Beaujolais and put it in your cellar for 5 years, easily, because 2009 was a great year for the Beaujolais area. 2011 is also a great vintage... then serve it blind for your friends and you will be surprised! Because what happens then to great Beaujolais is really spectacular; the Gamay disappears, leaving only great wine. The Gamay isn't important, it is Moulin-a-Vent that is important, it is Clos de Carquelin that we taste in this wine!"

2006 Domaine des Heritiers Louis Jadot, 1er Cru, "Clos des Ursules" Beaune (rouge)

$50+ USD (not widely available)

• Pierre chose 2 separate vintages of red Burgundy specifically to showcase terroir and what vintage variation can do with that terroir. In Pierre-Henry's words, 2005 was a great year that often times overshadows 2006 (unfairly as the '06 often tastes better right now) and capable of great aging... drink your '06 now and save the '05!
• this vineyard (2.5 HA) is the very first piece of property bought by Maison Jadot over 150 years ago. It is a monopole; meaning that there is only one owner (Maison Jadot in this case)
• total production is about 800 cases/year
• average vine age is 25 years

2005 1er Cru, "Clos de la Commaraine" Pommard
$50+ USD

• rated 90 points by Allen Meadows (the Burghound)
• Pierre launched into a dialogue about the "age-ability" of wines in response to a question from Anthony Gismondi about how long Maison Jadot wines could and should age: "any Maison Jadot can age for 10 years for sure, sometimes 15, 20, 30 years... we are drinking wines right now from 1904, 1911. But I get this question a lot; when should I drink this wine? It will not be better in 10 years, it will be different. Don't - forgive me Anthony - but don't listen too much to journalists! Trust your own palate!"
• we were then educated by Pierre as to why he had chosen the opposing vintages: "clearly you can see why you should not drink the 2005! This is too young, and even though it is a different area... Pommard is always a little tighter, a little more tension. There are 3 great Premier Cru in Pommard. This is not so well known because only one proprietor... we do not own the vineyard, we have a long-term contract with the owner. And so even if this is not so easy to find, it is very good value"

2007  Domaine Gagey, 1er Cru, "Les Baudes", Chambolle-Musigny (rouge)

$100+ USD

• 90 points from Stephan Tanzer, 16.5/20 from Jancis Robinson
• located immediately below Les Bonnes Mares Grand Cru and considered rich and powerful expressions of the region
• "when you hear the name Chambolle-Musigny you think elegance, delicacy, beauty! For us Chambolle-Musigny is a dream; the name itself has a certain sensualitie. These wines are sensual."
• this is a small vineyard that Pierre's father bought in the 1990's and only produces 5 or 6 casks per year
• this vintage was "a little more difficult"... up to 25% of the crop was lost to the sorting table but, as Tony stated so elegantly, "perhaps you (Pierre) suffer too much from the Maison Jadot condition of seeing your work as good, very good, and "could-be-better". This is such a good wine Pierre, I think you can relax." That was a comment that won resounding applause from the audience.

2006 Grand Cru, "Griotte-Chambertin"
$120-$170++

• very small vineyard less then 5 HA, only 3 proprietor
• to Pierre he can taste the impression of the local cherries, and not just the cherries, but the flesh of the cherries "and that is 2006; a great vintage for drinking now, but is also Griotte. I love this place"

2009 Domaine Louis Jadot, Grand Cru, "Clos Vougeot"

$150+++ USD

• average vine age is 30 years
• "2009 a great vintage; obviously a little young right now. Can be a little tough in the beginning! This young it is very tight. But the vintage is excellent."
• "this (Clos Vougeot) is so important for Burgundy because so many great winemakers have come here "
• "and you notice these spices in your mouth? We think these spices are typical of great Burgundy when they are young..."
• Pierre had evidently finally realized that his 1.5 hour lecture had been running into overtime for quite awhile, and tried a summation: "Obviously now when you have heard us winemakers talk, you have heard our passion. And it is our hope that you will hear this and be filled with a kind of envy and want to come, yes, come to Burgundy. It is good to taste the wine, and good to come to the wine-cellar, but you are young and full of life! Come work in the vineyard for a day! Then you will know the true Burgundy!". Anthony Gismondi responded with the succinct "Just get out of your car."

Pierre-Henry in Chicago

   Pierre is more then friendly, more then polite and well-spoken in several languages. Pierre is authentically passionate, and it's that passion that resonates though his audience and through his wines. By the end of our 90 minute lecture (which ran over by 30 minutes) I'm pretty sure that most of the room was enthralled. We were held captive by an unabashed love of Burgundy, and for what Burgundian soil can produce in it's wines; cool and steely Chablis,  delicate yet layered Cote de Nuits and the rich-fruit-bombs, full-of-earthy-perfume from Morgon and Moulin-a-Vents. Bourgogne (Burgundy) is as capable of greatness in it's wines as any other region.

  But not every region has champions like Pierre-Henry Gagey.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

 CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

2007 Piesporter "goldtropfchen" Riesling spatlese weingut St URBANS-HOF

Riesling; the longest-lived wine on the planet. Period. There is a barrel of Riesling in a German museum, which is still drinkable and tasted every 5 years by a panel of experts, from the mid-1600's.

   That's right, the wine is almost 400 years old.

   I thought an exclamation point at the end of that last statement would be overkill, but I'm sure you felt the implied emphasis! Riesling is a kind of "magical" varietal and no one is (arguably) better at working with this ancestral vine then the Germans. Baden, the Mosel, Pfalz or the Rheingau ; all of these areas and more, every part of Germany lends something different to it's wine. Some give a clean-slate minerality, others- ripeness of fruit, whilst some offer a baked-honey-utterly-lavish finish to the late-harvest wines that most of the world only dreams of.

   Yes, in Germany the mighty Riesling  becomes more then the sum of it's parts.

   And in Germany, depending on when in the picking season the grape is harvested, the sums of those parts will be given a different name. I suppose I should start by offering that these ingenious folks even have different names for varying levels of quality. Not given arbitrarily, all wines are given rigorous tasting and testing before judgement:

1. Deutcher Tafelwein : basic table wine
2. Deutcher Landwein :  a little better quality, from one of the specific 19 regions
3. Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA):  here's where we start to find some good quality; region specific to only 13 areas... these wines start to speak about where they come from
4. Prädikatswein :  the best quality; this is a new title replacing a much longer one that was easily confused with the third level (especially for non-German speakers)... although these can be dry, they almost always have a lip-smacking, dentist-(un)approved residual sugar. These wines tell a story, and tell it well.

St Urbans-Hof slopes

   So alot of information to digest, but this article is going to focus on one  Prädikatswein in particular: the St Urbans-Hof Riesling Spatlese... always a thing of beauty, this particular vintage (2007) is a true gem. I truly am thankful to the friend and colleague who turned me on to this small band of artisans. 

   Of course, this isn't the first article I've written about the family run winery from the Mosel region ( http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2011/03/riesling-st-urbans-hof-mosel-germany.html ) and I imagine that it won't be my last. These wines are filled with depth, concentration, balance and offer good to excellent value at any price-point.

   You doubt my words? Fine with me, for the proof (as always) is in the glass my friends.

2007 piesporter, goldtropfchen, Riesling-spatlese weingut 

St Urbans-Hof (winery), Leinwen, Mosel, Germany

$55 regular, on-sale at some speciality stores in BC for $39

93 Points
http://www.urbans-hof.de/

wine merchant in BC/Alberta: www.renwine.com
 

let me diverge from my normal style of article and talk about the label for a second, and the litany of words/names that appear.  

piesporter :   name for the (small) wine-growing region around the village of Piesport on the north bank of the Mosel river. Approximately 69 HA
goldtropfchen :   a term used to signify a this regions' top-level wine meaning "little drop of gold" 
Riesling-spatlese :   these Rieslings almost always carry a richer currant of ripe fruit flavors; I often find stonefruit dominant in tasting notes, and because of a generally higher level of residual sugar often have a fuller body and higher alcohol 
weingut :  meaning an estate which is growing grapes for wine, as opposed to purchasing their grapes, purchasing their juice, or growing their grapes for someone else's wine
Leinwen : is the name of the small town and Mosel as stated earlier is the region

• visual:   clear; ultra pale straw core with gold and silver highlights
• nose:   clean; fully intense and developing aromas of warm hay, honey, ripe stonefruit and stewed apricots, a super-intense line of crisp/vibrant minerality is piercing and yet balances thr ripe fruit perfectly
• palate:   clean; off-dry (64.7 grams sugar/L), full (yellow grapefruit) acids, moderate- body, moderate- alcohol (9% ABV), fully intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose with that strong current of minerality running rampant throughout... a strong spicy finish reminiscent of great Gewurztraminer. Excellent balance, very good structure and long length
• conclusion:   already drinking well, this wine has the acidity and sugar levels to ensure a long life in the cellar, but will not develop appreciably. Drink 2012-2025
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   use the sugars to best effect! Consider grilled lobster with fresh Thai basil coconut sauce on roasted peanut rice noodles and steamed gai-lan ... lobster loves Riesling  and a slightly spicy sauce will play well off the residual sugar in the wine. The mineral tones will embrace the earthy flavors from roasted nuts and the fresh vegetable will act as a little palate cleanser.

looking DOWN the slopes at St Urbans-Hof

    So many names, so many descriptive words. The Germans seem determined to make something as simple as fermented grape-juice as complex as they can. But what are we talking about? What is wine?

   Wine is more then just the grapes, more then just the fermentation process, or the maturation. Wine is more even then the people that perform all these tasks and more. Wine is a sometimes magical process that allows the grapes to tell the story of the land and the people that they come from.

   Perhaps a simple concept, but not an easy task. St Urbans-Hof has managed to do just that; with the German concepts of name, name, naming I can start to understand that story a little better from the moment I pick up the bottle. I know where this wine is from, and a bit about the people who made it. They're proud of what they've done, to put their name on the label so prominently.

   And so they should be

Nik Weis, current winemaker/proprietor

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!