Thorn-Clarke wines, South Australia

Thorn-Clarke Wines

 With the 2015 Vancouver International Wine Festival just around the corner my mind has started leaping ahead to the star-studded line-up of world-class winemakers who will be jetting in. Over 1,700 wines from 170 wineries will be poured and some of the most exciting, to me, are from this sixth-generation producer from the Barossa valley.

 Let's be honest about why I'm so excited to meet these folks: it's all about quality. But maybe I don't mean quality in the way that you're thinking. It's not just that this family, who've been pouring heart and soul into South Australia since the 1850's, released an entire line-up of wines that are great value for money. Hey - it's the "Golden Age" of wine! We're used to getting great wine for a great price.

the vineyard of St Kitts

THE thing to me is that I'm continually impressed, each and every year, because this is what they do with every vintage. I'm entering my fifth year writing about wine (a "youngster" still to many) and I taste a silly amount of wine... on average it's over 2,000 per year. And I can tell you, without reservation or hesitation, that there are very very few producers who are releasing quality of this magnitude year after year after year. Every year just a little better than the last, every wine being sold for less than it's true value.

The Clarke family state categorically that they:

"-take a long-term view of the future and our goal is unashamedly to be still growing grapes and making wine for another six generations."

And this is how it's done. This is why James Halliday, who knows more about Australian wine than any person who ever walked the Earth, has given Thorn-Clarke 5 stars for the ninth time in a row! Not familiar with Mr Halliday? Suffice it to say that when a winery earns it's first 5-star rating, it's going to be written about in the news. It is the benchmark for "outstanding quality" in Australian wine and is used as the yardstick by which every winery judges it's calibre versus it's colleagues and it's own previous vintages.

Nine times in a row means that the man who knows the most about Australian wine considers this tightly-knit team to be amongst the top echelon of a country brimming with brilliance. And when one hears the stories - of David Clarke testing soil samples by the light of the headlights of his car, at night, so as not to arouse suspicion in local farmers... well, stories like this are what feed the intuition that herein lies something beyond a desire to make good wine, it's (mild) obsession in the best of all possible ways.

This is the team that outfitted entire vineyards with moisture-probes: calibrated to only allow the vines access to irrigation under the most stringent conditions. Is this an environmental responsibility? Of course it is, but the benefit to you and I is that Thorn-Clarke is keeping it's berries small; less water per grape means a higher concentration of flavors!

Planting cover-drops between the rows of vines, planting thousands upon thousands of trees on the properties; these are environmentally responsible as well right? Once again - the winery and it's team are to be lauded, but as someone who's just one generation off the farm I'm thinking about the bio-diversity! What is happening is a return to, as some call it, ancestral farming. Through these techniques Thorn-Clarke is creating an environment that will allow full expression of flavor to come through the grapes and give their land it's own unique taste.

And this vision is all the more apparent when one hears them speak of their ardent efforts to now return the local waterways to " -a pristine example of native vegetation.". It's funny in a way, to think that in 100 years we as a First-World culture have come full circle; from the early 1900's and respecting the land and it's cycles, to the mid 1900's when we first decided that we needed to control Mother Nature and her many flights of whimsy, to the early 2000's when the trend is coming back to a place of respect.

And perhaps that's what separates Thorn-Clarke most of all from their competitors. In a time when quality is easier to come by then ever before and even great value can be found on almost any wine-vendor's shelves, respect in it's most sincere form is still rare enough to be extolled when we see it. Respect for the land, respect for the water, respect for the grapes and the winemaking process and, most of all, respect for you - the customer.

I hope you find value in my thoughts on these beautiful wines.

2011 "Terra Barossa" Shiraz-Cabernet-Petit Verdot

89+/90 points, $13+ USD, Great Value

... Expansive yet not expensive: this wine is rich with aromas of wild blueberries and Saskatoons, tomato leaf, warm earth, hints of vanilla, oak. On the palate is a perky acidity with fine, well integrated tannin and an intensity of flavors that well-matches the nose. Very good balance and structure, the length on the palate is also substantial for the price.

... When I smell and taste those darker berry flavors: blueberries, black currants, Saskatoons, I immediately think of venison! To me there's nothing that would pair better with this then a dish of venison stew/ragout with steamed new potatoes and fresh garden veggies. Although, I say that and then I savored the bottle over successive evenings and a ration of premium, hand-made, fresh peppercorn beef jerky from Hopcott farms, Pitt Meadows.

2012 Cabernet Sauvignon

89+ points, $16+ USD, Great Value

... What I love about this wine is its ability to express young Cab: big, beautiful, pear-shaped tones of ripe red fruit, summer flowers, the backbone of pencil-shaving/minerality and the warmth of musk/forest aromas. The bouquet is inviting, the palate offering substantial yet well balanced acid and more of the trademark well-integrated tannin though these are more substantial then the previous blend. Great structure.

... Food pairings abound! A natural for beef dishes, this will also bring beauty to the meatier Italian dishes like a lamb bolognese but I found it light enough to serve with grilled panini for lunch. This is a terrific introduction to the "softer-side-of-Cab" and pairs well with Tuesday nights and a warm fireplace :)

 

 2010 Barossa "Quartage"

Left Bank Bordeaux-styled blend: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot

91+ points, $18-$25 USD, EXCELLENT Value

... it's no secret that I love Bordeaux, but good Bordeaux is becoming out-of-reach for a writers salary. Top-tier Bordeaux is out-of-reach for most doctors and lawyers. But~! But there is great Bordeaux-style coming from all corners of the world and Australia is certainly a part of that wave. This wine is a personal favorite of mine and I have been constantly impressed vintage after vintage. For the money, this may be one of the best values in the North American market! Rich, nuanced dark floral aromas burst from the glass with violets and dark roses followed by black currants/black cherries/red raspberries. The palate is brisk with lean/focused young red currant acid, fine/chalky tannin and a concentration of flavors that well-mimic the nose and outperform the price-tag. Excellent balance, very good structure, this wine drinks well now and holds for several years but will not develop in bottle due to the Stelvin enclosure.

... Food pairings? Try cigar pairings! From Rocky Patel "Decade" to Montecristo, this wine is a cigar-lovers delight. If you must pair it with food, consider the price and then spoil yourself: this is a decadent treat for a Wednesday afternoon and gourmet pizza, capicollo panini or a simple steak frites... use great ingredients and let the beauty of this Barossa shine!

2010 Barossa Shiraz

90+ points, $15-$22 USD, Great Value

... first, a word on Shiraz if you're thinking right now "Oh - I don't like Aussie Shiraz, I only like French/Spanish/California/etc". In a recent blind tasting with a dozen highly skilled industry professionals, no one could tell which Shiraz out of ten bottles was from Australia. Well... I could tell one of them, but only because I was incredibly familiar with that particular winemaker and knew his "signature". But my point is that there is a new era in winemaking and what you tasted 10 years ago (or older) isn't necessarily what you will find today! I have shown colleagues time and time again that the "New Face" of Aussie Shiraz is a sophisticated, elegant one that merits attention.

... Harmonious. This wine achieves a delightful balance of dark floral aromas, dark exotic chocolate and warm earth tones. The palate is awash in fresh red berry flavors and achieves mouth-watering acidity yet in a balanced and approachable manner. Very good concentration of flavors that match the nose with that ever-present peppercorn finish, to me this is a great example of the modern Shiraz.It will keep well for several years in cellar but, once again, will not develop due to Stelvin enclosure. Enjoy it young with sea-salt and olive grilled lamb and an herbaceous quinoa-tabbouleh salad!

2010 "William Randell" Barossa Shiraz

93+/94 points, $40-$50+ USD, WORLD CLASS

*97 points James Halliday

*in my TOP WINES, 2014

*minimum 1 hour decant or 2 runs through the aerator

... made from small, select lots and only in the best years, this is the essence of truly Great Barossa without the staggering price that some can fetch. That James Halliday of the Australian Wine Companion would bestow 97 points on this is enough for any reasonable person to ascertain that here-in lies beauty... created as an Ode to one of the patriarchs of the Clarke family, this wine offers the "Holy Trinity" of stunning: balance, structure and concentration.

... if you open this wine and find the aromas closed, just try decanting another 30 mins to an hour; it is impossible to over-decant this. To the eye this wine is so dark in it's bruised purple tones that it appears black in the glass. I was most struck by the plethora of floral aromas; the usual suspects of red and dark berries, dark cocoa, peppercorns and warm Barossa soil abound, but the lifted scents of violets, soft roses and irises is both feminine and tremendously alluring. On the palate, it presents tight, lean, well-focused red currant and young red raspberry acid that reminds one of Northern Rhone; tremendously fresh. The tannin is full, yet ultra fine/chalky/chewy and is delightfully approachable considering it's relative youth. The flavors are as full, and full of life and dimension, as the bouquet; a true craftsman's work. If you would drink this now (and it is utterly delightful now) I would highly encourage buying another few bottles to set aside. This wine will live and evolve for at least 15 more years with grace. Food pairing? Consider this dish I created for my Chef du Cuisine final project:

lamb, 3 ways               (sourced from Elliot Ranch, Strathmore, Alberta)

1. tenderloin (wrapped in duck pate and spinach) on braised chicory

2. two points of rack, baked in coarse salt with vanilla bean & fresh thyme, Hainle vineyards Gewurztraminer icewine poached Anjou pear, warm crab-apple compote

3. individual tortierre with braised shank and shoulder, charred heirloom tomato ketchup

the vineyards of Thorn-Clarke

Many thanks to Renaissance Wine Merchants (importer to Western Canada) and Thorn-Clarke Wines for the very generous sample bottles. As always you can find more recipes, free wine reviews and my notes on premium distillates and cigars on:

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Anarchist Mountain Vineyard, BC

It’s natural, at the start of a New Year, to ask ourselves: “What does it mean to be alive?” We breathe, we eat, we give thanks through our day for the blessings we’ve received. Does that make us alive? Or is it something more?

In my life, the times when I feel most alive are when I struggle; when I strive against the obstacles, the nay-sayers, the obstinate will of those who would deny the possibility of more. This is when every breath is full of oxygen, when every flower is imbued with a kaleidoscope of color and the wind is the breath of god.

Andrew Stone loving his work

Look at this photo: this is a man who is filled with life. Even if you don’t know him and, before a few weeks ago, I didn’t know him either. But I don’t have to know him to see his joy. I don’t have to know him to see that this is someone who has found his place in the world, his home and that life is more to him than the passage of time.

Meet Andrew Stone: one half of the team that is bringing life to a vineyard 1700′ above the ocean; high above the northern tip of the Sonoran desert in the Okanagan Valley, British Columbia. A place filled with its own ancient magic that, to some, may seem ethereal. But watch the sun begin to set over the hills, feel the last rays touch your face, the earth, the grapes on the hillside, and tell me that you don’t hear the land whispering its own primordial song.

I asked Terry (wife/partner/better-half to Andrew):

the vista at Anarchist Mountain

“Why? Why do this? Why give up your great jobs with great incomes and great security – to take on the life of winemakers?”

And though we were speaking on the phone I assure you that I saw most plainly when Terry smiled quietly before her response.

“When we came to this place, when we looked out on this vista, we knew that this was our place. This is our home and the lifestyle of being a part of this land makes it all worthwhile.”

I knew she was being completely honest. I knew because I’ve felt the same feeling. I tried to steer the conversation around to the actual business side of winemaking and asked Terry what their inspirations were for the Burgundian-style Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that I tried. But Terry is humble, to the point of even deferring that they were truly wine-makers.

“We’re still trying to figure that out Kristof: are we really winemakers or are we grape-growers? There is so much inspiration to choose from but, of course, my brother (Jak Meyer of Meyer Family Vineyards) has been significant for both of us. It was being there with him, right at the beginning of his adventure into the woolly world of wine, that got us hooked.”

But – there must be a style that you’re striving for… certainly with your Pinot Noir, which is one of the most unique I’ve tried.

“Yes, there is a style…. the style the land wants to express. And that’s what we’re trying to better understand.”

Andrew and Terry Stone

Humbling words coming from a couple who have staked their future on these grapes and so I had to know: What would be the biggest goal for Anarchist Vineyards in 2015?

“You mean besides survival?”

And we both laughed ruefully at that, for we both knew what it is to take that leap into the unknown and gamble not only with our own future, but the future of our family on a new venture. “It’s a roller-coaster-” Darren Hardy of Success Magazine likes to say, “-and if you don’t like roller-coasters then you’ld better not get into business for yourself.”

“We’ve both kept our full-time jobs to help support our work at the vineyard, but it means long days and very little rest on weekends, holidays… we’ve always got something to do! Which we love! But we’ve got to get the word out there – get people trying the wine so we can get feedback and do better next year, and better the year after that.”

And then came one of the hardest parts of being a journalist; I had to tell the truth. I’m not including a review of the Anarchist Vineyards Chardonnay: the acid was untamed/out of balance and though the wine showed excellence in mineral concentration, the structure was overwhelmed by these full++ lemon zest acids. And I said as much to Terry who, to my surprise, concurred.

“It was a difficult vintage for us. I’m not making excuses, but it was tough, and we’ll do better next year. That being said we have noted that, with time, it is softening; making it a wine that will come into its own over time “

And listening to her, I found myself nodding in agreement. It is part of the process and a necessary one. You and I know that we all learn better from our stumbles in life than we do from our triumphs. Lucky for you, the consumer, Anarchist Mountain Vineyard has both.

2012 “Wildfire” Pinot Noir

Okanagan Falls, Osoyoos

harvested at 2.3 tons/acre

70 cases produced

89 points, Very Good Value

*BENEFITS FROM DECANTING OR 1-2 RUNS THROUGH THE AERATOR*

… inviting aromas of ripening red raspberries, wild lavender and thyme, punctuated by a light seasalt minerality. Refreshing medium+ raspberry acid acts much like great examples from its cousin Gamay Noir in that it conveys a candied fruit quality. Tannin is fine and incredibly light – far less then I would expect – and again, acts much like a good Gamay. This being the case, and the wine having very good balance, structure concentration, I would use this the same way when pairing with food. Think of this as a “mid-afternoon” Pinot Noir; perfect with a grilled mortadella e provolone panini at the park or out on the deck with a plate of charcuterie (coldcuts), local cheese and warm bread. Unfined and unfiltered means that this wine is made with Old World skill and, though under Stelvin enclosure (screw-top), will benefit from a few years of age… it helps, in my opinion, to soften the eager acid and let the wine find it’s balance.

livin’ the life at Anarchist

Many thanks to Andrew and Terry Stone of Anarchist Mountain Vineyard for the very generous sample bottles. As always you can find more recipes, free wine reviews and my notes on premium distillates and cigars on:

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A local (Irish) Christmas Dinner

Chaberton Winery

Hopcott's Meats

Who doesn't love Christmas? Even people from outside of the traditional Christmas areas (Europe and North America) embrace the season of gluttony giving! And what says giving better than being giving of your time, your space and your self.

Because, really, isn't that the whole idea?

And in my family Christmas has evolved as a tradition of making time to invite friends and family to the house:  fresh cedar boughs by the fireplace, the tree-trimming a celebrated afternoon to itself, the outside lights warm, inviting - without the post-modern garishness of a Chevy Chase Père Noël debacle. It's the only month of the year that sees Roger Whitaker, Bing Crosby and Alvin and the Chipmunks music played on a daily basis. My step-mom makes the most insanely decadent, melt-in-your-mouth, fattening-beyond-belief-but-who-cares? shortbread cookies. My Dad and I make menus requiring days of slavish labor in the kitchen with more than a few trips down to the basement to grab a bottle of this or that... it's the time of year when we celebrate the simple pleasure of being together with a decent meal and some good wine.

Now I've reached that point of my life where my parents and I are separated by long distance (a thousand kilometers or 700 miles) and a mountain range. Driving to their house just isn't the option it once was; what with a precocious 3 year old and her rapscallion 9-month old brother and so this Dad needs to do what my Dad did for me: I have to learn to create Christmas for myself.

Not an easy task. Or is it?

My friend Jenn Hopcott-Foxley invited me down to Hopcott's Meats the other day; something I never pass up on. I packed Clare (Thing #1) in the car and off we whisked along country roads and meandering dusty trails; the foothills to the north already cloaked in cotton-capes of fluffy wonder and the blustery clouds above promising more to come. And as we parked I could hear the query from the backseat "Daddy where are the donkeys?!". Hopcott's, you see, keeps a cute pen beside the store where little ones can pet the little ones and my daughter has been brave more than once - screwing up her courage enough to hand a carrot to the furry fellows.

Inside the store Jenn responded to Clare's question with due gravity and announced that the donkeys needed to visit their friends, the cows, in the barn and would be staying  until it warmed up enough for them to come back to the store. Clare stated imperially that "that's a very smart idea". I'm sure Jenn was much relieved.

And as Jenn and I discussed the upcoming "feast-ivites" of Christmas I spoke about how many Irish families (ours at least) were much more likely to serve roast beef than turkey - and thus this article was conceived. The entirety of this meal comes from Hopcott's and I'm proud that it showcases the brilliant quality fruit, vegetables and meat that are available not from within 100 miles - but much closer! And then I thought of my friends at Domaine de Chaberton winery in Langley (now Chaberton Estate) and realized that they were the perfect fit for a #Local Christmas Dinner (Irish-style).

This is a simple meal that I would be proud to share with any chef-colleague or picky relative; the ingredients speak for themselves. 

Baron of Beef (medium-rare) and natural beef jus

creamed leeks with Boursin cheese

steamed carrot "jewels", baby red potato and organic Swiss Chard

oven roast parsnip and baby turban squash

"petite salade" of roast beet, hothouse cherry tomato and organic peashoots

To me the key to this, and indeed any, meal is utilizing different cooking techniques to create differing flavors, colors, textures and aromas. Never forget that we eat with our eyes before we ever taste~! If the plate doesn't look amazing then we're bound to pre-determine that it "just-isn't-up-to-snuff".  Here are my tricks to making these stunning local components shine:

try searing the beef first, then adding veggies to the roasting pan

   1. Baron of beef is packed with tons of flavor but is a very lean cut! This means that over-cooking, even just a bit, will give you a dry roast. Go back to the basics: let your roast come up to room temperature before cooking, sear it well and then roast it "low-and-slow" which, for me, means about 290F until the internal temperature reaches 140F. Remember: when in doubt, cook your roast for less than you think it needs and rest it for longer! This roast was about 3-4 pounds and was 90 minutes cooking time, 30 minutes resting.

   2. When I make my creamed leeks I wilt them at least 30 minutes in chicken stock - they continue to soak up that rich, buttery flavor and only then do I add the cream and turn the burner down to it's lowest setting. Boursin is added just moments before serving to prevent scorching.

  3. When steaming veggies, remember that you can always put them back in for a few more minutes - but you can't "un-steam them". Check, check and re-check if you need to! And when I'm cooking for a large group I always cook in batches and put the cooked ones in a large ceramic bowl close to the stove wrapped in cling-film. Never overload your steamer or you'll end up with uneven cooking.

the baby-turban squash

4. Ever have woody parsnips in the winter? Try cutting the core out of them! The outsides can be lovely creamy goodness even if the center isn't. And baby turban squash is a great conversation piece... my wife couldn't believe it was more than decoration ;)

  5. Even in the middle of winter the local hothouses are growing delicious vegetables and fruit. This salad looks far more beautiful than I would have imagined considering it took less than 5 minutes to prep! And the diversity of flavors makes this a winner with the kids as much as the adults.

And, to me, no celebration is complete without a glass or three of wine. The dedicated team at Chaberton Estates has been putting their hearts and souls into crafting elegance from BC fruit and the results are nothing less than spectacular. Remember it was just this spring that Chaberton won first place in the #WTCRightBank (Wine Tasting Circle: Right Banks of the World tasting) with 92+points for their AC50 beating some absolute premier wineries. 

And so I was proud to serve this Siegerrebe which I knew would be brilliant with the creamed leeks and steamed veggies and the CabSauv (Cabernet Sauvignon) which is the natural pairing for beef. If you aren't familiar with Siegerrebe then you're in good company because I didn't know very much about the varietal either. It turns out to be fairly obscure and only has about 100 HA planted in all of Germany which is where it's from. Certainly the New World producers have crafted surprising greatness from a grape that most seasoned journalists are dismissive of. I'll let my notes speak for themselves on what I consider to be one of the best value aromatic white wines I had in 2014.

As for the CabSauv, there's not much I can say that hasn't been said before except for this: BC does not grow CabSauv well, with a few exceptions. In an area larger than France we grow less of this bold grape than some of the smallest regions in the world. But! But in those tiny pockets of the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys, when the conditions are right and winemakers are using the utmost skill: something special can happen. This is a beautiful example of CabSauv and a great representation of that "something special".

2013 Reserve Siegerrebe 

Fraser Valley VQA

$17.95 CAD, 89 points Stunning Value

... the best part of this wine is the worst part of this wine: it's highly addictive nature! I am not a lover of sugary, ripe-fruit wines; I prefer the austere or the masculine: Big, Bold Bordeaux is my "thang" as it were. So, when I opened this bottle, I had thought that I was opening it for my wife. Well she's in bed and I'm pouring the last of it into my empty glass as I write  because it's just that darned good. Ripe exotic aromas of jasmine and apple-pears, grilled pineapple and lychee, mango and guava... a veritable Fijian fruit salad of exuberance. Pair that with exquisitely crafted full lemon-drop-candy acid and a concentration of flavors that far outweigh the negligible price and you have #StunningValue and then some. This was gorgeous with the creamed leeks (expected) but the real treat was how well it paired with roast beets: a new favorite for me!

Chaberton Estates Reserve CabSauv: great value

2011 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Okanagan Valley DVA

$23.75 CAD, 89 points Great Value

... I actually don't have to look that far to find a $20-something Cab-Sauv (blend) that's been aged for 3 years before release; examples abound from Spain, Portugal, Chile... anywhere one might find viticulture en-masse for the past few centuries. But from British Columbia?! Ok - a beast of a different nature, I grant you. I had no idea the price when I made my notes: observing the rich aromas of bramble-berries (blackberries/blueberry/Saskatoon/black currant), musk and cedar... the perky medium+acid which showcases a professional medium+chewy tannin structure and very good concentration. No, I just made my notes and made the mental note that it reminded me quite a bit of a Cru Bourgeois Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux. That's a compliment by-the-way :). Well if you want Bordeaux, buy Bordeaux, but if you want #GreatValue - look no further... one would be hard-pressed to find this quality from that (or any) region for a similar price.

*****

dinner for the 9-month old

And so the lesson for me this December is that creating my own Christmas isn't nearly as daunting as I had thought it would be; I put the appropriate music on, we decorated the house with lights and tinsel and I took fresh, local, seasonal ingredients and treated them with the respect they deserve. We sat 'round the table, just the four  of us, and gave thanks for the richness in our lives and savored not only the meal, but the precious time we have together.

And so from my family - to yours - we wish the very best of the Holiday Season!

Many thanks to Jenn at Hopcott's for the fine fixings I used to create this lavish feast and to the exemplary team at Chaberton Estates for the sample bottles. As always you can find more recipes, free wine reviews, and my notes on premium distillates and cigars on:

dinner for the adults

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Fort Berens Estate Winery, BC

Fort Berens Estate Winery

Lillooet, British Columbia

When will I learn? Never, ever, ever judge a wine immediately after opening it! These wines came across my desk only a few days ago and, as I was familiar with them, I opened them immediately and started to make notes. Wrong! Almost all wines (there must be an exception) benefit from some measure of decanting and these wines; these young wines that had just been packed up and shipped hundreds of miles certainly deserved the respect of at least minimal decanting. I didn’t write any notes that first day… just put the cork back in, non-plussed, and went on to other work. In a day or two they all started opening and they are beautiful!

Rolf (right) with guests

But let me first take a moment to share some thoughts on the founders of this new venture:  Rolf de Bruin and his charming wife Heleen Pannekoek. What kind of bravery does it take for a young family to move from Holland to Canada – to make wine? Does this then infer a level of boldness bordering on foolishness when the same family decides to push the known boundaries of wine production for the most northerly growing region in the world?!

Yes, maybe foolish – even crazy… crazy like a fox 

Some readers will be familiar with the price of land in the Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, which has reached ludicrously high levels for a region that in the 1980’s only had 30 wineries in it and none of those what one might consider “competitive on a global level”. But in a flash and a generation that has blossomed to over 240 wineries and several of those garnering the highest accolades for: sparkling wines, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, rosé and bold Bordeaux-styled blends. Oh yes, and a little gem known as Icewine.

So then this crafty, foxy family moving from Holland sees right past the incredibly competitive Okanagan Valley and hears of a little town to the north-east of the “great Valley” named Lillooet. It seems that a forward-thinking mayor had the notion in the early 2000’s to have the soil and climate of the Lillooet region (Fraser Canyon) tested for suitability for viticulture… she was another smart-cookie and the researchers told her as much: the Fraser Canyon could produce beautiful grapes. But who was going to take a chance on the northern-most region of the northern-most region?

Savvy business people – that’s who! There are only a few ways to make money: be the first, be the cheapest or be the best. Being cheapest is an impossibility in a region like this (and who wants to fight that battle anyways?). Being the best is a noble endeavor but, with tens of thousands of wineries with pedigrees of winemaking – perhaps not the easiest business plan. So why not be the first?

And so Rolf; a management consultant with almost two decades of track record bringing others success and Heleen; an equally accomplished banker having worked with medium and small businesses – helping them find the path to their financial goals. These two can see the diamond-in-the-rough. A fitting analogy as who comes into the picture as investors? A venture-capitalist, an investment banker (former mining executive), the Co-Head of BMO Capital Markets’ Metals and Mining practice, the President and CEO of Victoria Gold Corp and the head of National Bank’s Metals and Mining practice (whose family is from Lillooet).

As I said if this is a diamond-in-the-rough then these are the people who are going to see that, and make it work. And work it has: these wines have earned awards at some of the most competitive competitions in the world: the International Wine and Spirit Competition (London, UK), the Los Angeles International and the National Wine Awards of Canada just to name a few.

Yet, to me, the greatest joy in tasting these wines isn’t in the pride of choosing something that won awards. I’m not excited when I see them at a wine tasting because somebody (even me) gave them a high recommendation or 90+ points. What gives me a thrill is that these wines, these absolutely juvenile wines (please don’t consider that derogatory) are already starting to express a sense of place that exists nowhere else on earth.

These are the first, and only, winemakers on this land as of 2014. And what they are creating is worthy of note: consummately professional, eloquent, even poetic in their own way… I invite you to try for yourselves and, please, I look forward to hearing your thoughts.

2013 Estate Chardonnay

602 cases, $19.99 CAD

90 points, Very Good/Excellent Value

… unique! I tried my best to compare this to other regions… tried to put this wine into the same box as someone/somewhere else, and fell short. This Chardonnay simply doesn’t taste like Chardie (as they say in Australia) from anywhere else: the reserved aromas of young pineapple/Amalfi-coast lemons could make me think of a cool California region (Central Coast AVA maybe) or Chile, but the palate is led by a fierce chalky minerality… Chablis right? Or at least Petit Chablis for this price. But then there are more flavors that come in; hints of honeydew and ripe canteloupe, grilled pineapple with it’s sugary-goodness burning to the barbeque and apricots soaking in juice. Impressive levels of balance, structure and balance for such a young winery/vines. FOOD PAIRING: Oysters. Oysters and more oysters. Don’t like oysters? Anything from the sea is going to love the strength of this salty-mineral palate. Coquilles-St-Jacques a natural, this recipe comes from a mentor and guru to me (though he’s unaware of the fact): Anthony Bourdain.

2012 Estate Pinot Noir

475 cases, $25.99 CAD

90 points, Very Good/Excellent Value

*MERITS ONE HOUR DECANT OR RUN THROUGH AERATOR*

… Rich layers of aromas blend ripe raspberry tea with wet sage leaves, tight minerals, dark cocoa and old leather. The palate is precise: utterly focused on bright/lean/full cranberry-raspberry-red currant acid and a medium/fine-yet-grippy tannin structure. The flavors are much the same as the nose, though slightly simpler; most of the focus being on the brightness of fresh young red berries and that keen mineral backbone holding it together. Very good structure, balance and the concentration is excellent. If I had to compare this, I would say it’s much like the great examples of Gamay Noir from places like Morgon or Fleurie in northern Beaujolais when they gather some age and become so like Pinot Noir that many sommeliers can’t tell them apart. FOOD PAIRING: the pizza-purists in the audience will shudder when I say duck pizza with sauteed watercress, garlic jam and Sbrinz cheese. The watercress will emphasize the herbal tones, the garlic brings out earthiness, the duck is just beautiful – seriously though a bit of fat in the food will make this wine happy. And Sbrinz?? I prefer this over most of the Parmegiano family and when you try it you’ll understand why 

2012 Estate Cabernet Franc

482 cases, $26.99 CAD

90+ points, Very Good Value

*MERITS 1/2 HOUR DECANT OR RUN THROUGH AERATOR*

… I was charmed by the “friendliness” of the perky red berry aromas; melding with that Fort Beren’s seasalt-mineral-undertone much like one of my favorite treats: Lindt dark chocolate with seasalt. The palate carries brisk red currant acid and the same fine yet chewy tannin structure. Very good balance, structure and concentration of flavors which carry those same currant/young raspberry/raspberry tea flavors with a deliciously savoury backdrop. FOOD PAIRING: call me crazy but as soon as I tasted this I thought: Jerk Turkey!! If you’re not familiar with “Jerk” then please follow the link and prepare your taste-buds for a whirlwind adventure in spice and flavor! A very good representative for Lillooet winemaking AND Cabernet Franc, this young wine will not develop appreciably and is best enjoyed 2014-2017

2012 Meritage

844 cases, $28.99 CAD

72% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc

89+ points, Very Good Value

…this Bordeaux styled blend finds a unique home in Lillooet; Merlot certainly drives the bulk of the aromas: plush red raspberry jam still warm on the stove with a touch of that Cab-Franc savoury sage/wild thyme. It could almost be St-Emilion except for the fact that very very few wineries there grow any Cab-Sauv, much less blending 18%! And that’s where the subtly creeps in; aromas more (as stated above) of seasalt dark chocolate rather than what many of us are used to from the varietal as a more graphite/pencil-lead smell. The palate is cool climate class: crisp, almost-but-not-quite brittle medium+red currant acid drives a medium+chalky/chewy tannin structure. Concentration is quite good and carries much of the nose with it, balance and structure also being good. FOOD PAIRING: call it Beef Stew or Pot-au-Feu, it’s still the same: the best quality beef you can afford, braised for long hours in wine and stock with ample amounts of sweet onion and roast garlic… some garden fresh thyme and rosemary thrown in. Steam some brilliantly fresh winter veg: Savoy cabbage, parsnip, turnip, squash, celeriac and serve with crusty bread or scones fresh from the oven with too much butter. #Heaven #ComfortFood

Fort Berens Horse train

Many thanks to Heleen and Rolf for the generous sample bottles: your bravery took root, literally, and has shown us a completely new face to varietals we’ve tasted a thousand times before. As always you can find more recipes, free wine reviews and my notes on premium distillates and cigars on:

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