Desert Hills Estate Winery, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

 www.DesertHills.ca

brothers Randy and Jessie

 It’s the Holiday Season so I’m a sucker for a “feel-good” kind of story. Like 3 brothers who move in the mid ’80s to British Columbia from India and start working the new family farm…

Not a big stretch, right? They had a farm back home, Dad gets a little property in the Okanagan just outside of Oliver, and now they’re growing fruit. But the 3 brothers look around – undoubtedly noticing the large sign as one enters town that proclaims Oliver as “The Wine Capital of Canada”. True? Not for me to say, but there are a lot of wineries there… so the brothers go to Dad and say “Dad, let’s grow grapes. We can sell them for more then apples or peaches!”

Dad thinks about this, decides to go out on a limb and trust his boys. Much expense later, the family is producing wine grapes and selling them to local wineries and making more money. Good right? But not good enough for the Toor brothers who now go back to Dear Old Dad and say “Hey Dad, the grapes are really good. I mean really good… let’s start making our own wine.”

Dad goes back out on the limb, the family goes into the wine-making business now. And guess what?

Oh damned. You weren’t supposed to actually guess it… yes! The wine was also good. I mean really good. Good enough that they have won the prestigious Lieutenant Governor’s Award for excellence in winemaking (TWICE) and the winner of Canada’s Best Red.

And they planted the first Syrah in the South Okanagan.

This means that they’ve got some major determination, but also the foresight to look ahead of the curve and anticipate what might be lying there. That’s a good story in my books, and more then a little inspiring. But the best part to selfish-me is that these wines are widely available and at very reasonable prices. And my proof? Right there in the glass my friends:

2012 Chardonnay (unoaked)

solid 90 points

320 cases produced

*BEST WITH ONE/TWO RUN(S) THROUGH THE AERATOR

• a bouquet that’s generous in floral and mineral tones, this wine is expressive of whence it comes from. The crisp, clean palate is rich in the same minerality and accentuated by flavors of wild summer flowers, white tea and young stonefruit (such as apricots and peaches) with a healthy dose of warm Golden Delicious apples thrown in for good measure. Well balanced, with good structure and decent length on the palate – this wine does as well on it’s own as it would with food. And what food?? As this is much more French in it’s approach then Californian, I would opt for a French classic like poulet aux quarantes l’ail (chicken roast with 40 garlic) or perhaps butter poached scallops with asparagus and hollandaise… there are enough acids to handle more robustly fatty meals 

2011 Viognier, Sira’s vineyard

89+/90 points

1000 cases produced

*BEST WITH ONE/TWO RUN(S) THROUGH THE AERATOR

• once again, very French in it’s approach, this is an understated version of Viognierwith tight acid and a bouquet quite eloquently speaking about apricot compote, white tea and crushed-slate minerals. The balance is good, and the structure is even better with the length on the palate being considerable at 15-20 seconds before fading. I would have gladly scored this 91+ points if the bouquet was as expressive as the palate, which is as delicious as it is professional… a perfect pairing with WestCoast cuisine, this is brilliant with brown-sugar barbequed salmon, buttered fiddleheads and steamed new potatoes. And a word of caution; ensure you serve this wine under 15c/59F – too warm and the acids become unbalanced and bitter

2012 Gewurztraminer

91+ points

575 cases produced

*DECANTING/AERATION UNNECESSARY

• an icon from the Desert Hills line-up, this varietal shines on their terroir. Bold aromas of lychee, pink and white grapefruit, exotic flowers and guava erupt from the glass with a keenly edged full acid on the palate to keep it in focus. Generous mid-palate flavors that mimic the bouquet brilliantly, good balance and structure with a medium length palate that is fun on it’s own but can pair with some serious food. This is for your gourmet Thai/Vietnamese cuisine and will make you look like a superstar when paired with the flavors of Thai basil, ginger, galangal and curry~! Once again though, a caveat: don’t serve over 15c/59F or the acids will appear unbalanced

2012 Gamay (Noir)

91+ points

*DECANTING/AERATION UNNECESSARY

• if Gewurztraminer would be their flagship white varietal, then Gamay Noir would most certainly be (in my humble opinion) Desert Hills flagship red. Made famous, or infamous, by the Beaujolais Nouveau craze of the late 80′s/early 90′s (and modern day Japan) – Gamay Noir is capable of greatness when produced on the appropriate soil and crafted by artisans. This is certainly on the same level as many top-producers in Fleurie or Moulin-a-Vent~! A wildly expressive nose with aromas of worn leather, warm earth, pencil shavings, lightly candied blackberries and black currants, and a last hint of savory herbs… the palate follows suit with moderate acid, fine silty tannin and a generous expression that has balance, structure and medium+ length.
• Food pairing?? Try this with your simple food to allow the wine to shine: artisanal Tuesday-night pizza with spicy Capicolla, local chevre (goat’s cheese), sun-dried tomato, artichoke hearts and a drizzle of white truffle oil

2009 Cabernet Franc

Eagle’s Nest Vineyard

88 points

302 cases produced

*DECANTING/AERATION UNNECESSARY

• soft aromas of green pepper, warm earth and graphite-like pencil shavings greet the consumer while the palate delivers a modicum of tight red current acid overlayed by grippy young tannin. Whilst the balance is quite good, the structure is fair at best and the length on the palate is short to medium. This is an excellent candidate for Summer sangria and Winter mulled wine and, should you have some in your cellar, is best consumed sooner rather then later.

2008 “Mirage”

Cab-Sauv driven Bordeaux-styled blend (Left Bank)

91 points

980 cases produced

• yes, Bordeaux styling can be found in the most northerly of wine-growing regions. It can even be eloquent, as exemplified by the “Mirage”; sonorous aromas of warm earth, old leather, graphite minerality, blackberry/blueberry/currant jam, wild herbs growing on the hillside all marry together quite seamlessly. The palate is driven by the bright red berry tones turning darker with the five years of aging, and held together by the clean and lean mineral edge. Very good balance and excellent structure, this palate holds well at medium+ or over 20 seconds developing on the tastebuds. Excellent now, hold in your cellar for several years
• A wine of this structure merits food with equal thoughtfulness and consideration. Perhaps sous-vide beef tenderloin stuffed with Fraser Valley roast chestnuts and Qualicum blue cheese with a fresh rosemary jus, parsnip pave, candied eggplant crisps and charred radicchio salad…  intense flavors all, and all will draw strong notes from the wine

relaxing at the end of a hard day

Three brothers who turn a modest family business into a family legacy in the space of a generation. A good story, but then there’s the icing on the cake… it turns out that the brothers have taken some of the profits from the winery and built a sports arena in their hometown in India. Not content with merely flashing money around to look good, or assuage their egos, these fine men make a point of returning home every year to catch-up with family and friends, and ensure the arena is being run properly.

Because they care, these Toor brothers. They care about their family, they care about quality, and they care about their community: the New World and the Old, merging into something better then either was on it’s own. And that’s a good story, a really good story and more then reason enough for me to seek out their wines on a habitual basis: the Gewurztraminer a perennial treat for my beautiful wife.

Ask yourself, what do you respect about the last winery you supported with your consumer dollars?

Many thanks to Renaissance Wine Merchants, representatives of Desert Hills, for the sample bottles.  www.renaissancewine.ca

As always, I look forward to your thoughts, comments and questions. Here, or:

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

Syrah, Desert Hills, 2007 Select (revisited)

A new year, a new vintage of Syrah from one of my favorite BC wineries, Desert Hills ( http://www.deserthills.ca/ ).

All the wine-world, it seems, is going through a period of unprecedented growth; in volume, in diversity, and most importantly in terms of quality. Desert Hills is no exception. To think that only 15 years ago, the very first vines were being planted there, and already they have become a fixture in the BC wine landscape.

     Did you know that over 100 restaurants in the Lower Mainland carry their wines?

     Did you know that they have a fortified wine in the works?

     Very exciting to be able to witness this transformative time in our industry, and then, be able to sip the rewards of this long and dedicated labor. Cheers to BC wine!

2007 Desert Hills Syrah, Black Sage Bench, Okanagan, BC

14.3%, $35 CAN (not listed by BCLB, only speciality wine stores)       Very Good Value!

2010 Canada's over all best red wine of the year,

Double Gold,  Gold International & Silver Tasters Guild International

• visual: deep dark plummy blackcurrant color with the barest hint of orange-cherry rim
• nose: moderate++ to fully intense dark fruit to start (baie noirs; think blackberry jam, stewed plums), followed by leathery oak and garrigue (savory herbs; wild thyme and hints of sage), roast beef, wild game
• palate: moderate+ acids, moderate++ tannins (slightly chalky), moderate+ to full- intense palate mimicking the nose admirably... cherries come through on the palate that I didn't notice on the nose (and Saskatoons), mild peppercorns (pink) at the end
• PAIRING: every Christmas my father, the intrepid at-home chef, and I make grilled venison steaks with a blueberry and thyme compote. That dish was made for a wine like this. Use rich beef flavors to compliment the almost Chateauneuf-du-Pape qualities, use berries, try a duck breast with cherry & be suprised at how the wine seems to lighten to compliment. In essence, I'm always trying to either compliment an existing note in the wine, or sharply contrast. For example, I may contrast the moderate+ acids here with cheese or cream: Morbier goat's cheese from France would work well, on grilled bread rather then fresh bread (my own preference)... but the true joy, I think, is discovering your own pairings.

Overall, what a wonderful wine for $35! Full of flavor, and nuanced in the bouquet, what I would say is please decant! I tried this wine within 2 minutes of opening, then after 30 minutes of decanting, then after an hour (+) of decanting, and it was a world of difference. Allow yourself this wine the time to show all of its splendor. Decant a minimum of (1) hour. Alternatively, I agree with the winemakers that this wine can be cellared for 5 years with ease, and will drink well for several years past that... IMHO, this can be enjoyed 2014-2020, and realistically, no one could buy a wine of this quality for $35 after its had the chance to cellar properly for another 2 or 3 years.

CIN CIN!  SLAINTE!

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Saturday, 29th January, 2011

On a cold, wet, windy afternoon what better to do then re-visit an old friend? An here-in I have done just that; cracking open a bottle of the 2007 Desert Hills Syrah to see if it can't warm my old bones a little...

• visual:     same as above; clean; deep garnet core with slight cherry rim
• nose:     deep and fully intense bouquet showing signs of development with the blush of youth; dark berries (blackberry, black raspberry, saskatoon) appear first followed by some red berry (chery, raspberry, light red currant), moderate oaking, some small amount of savory herbs and more predominantly after sufficient decanting is a wonderfully rich florality of irises and hibiscus. Slightly spicy white pepper finish.
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (raspberry) acids, moderate (soft, velvety) tannins, moderate+ ABV, moderate+ body, moderate+ to fully intense youthful flavors showing some signs of development; red berries dominate (raspberry, cherry, cranberry) followed by some stewed blackberry and plum, leathery French oak, wild herbs are more noticable on the palate then the nose, lingering finish of floral notes and some mild vanilla. Excellent balance, beautiful structure, long finish.
• conclusion:   What a beautiful wine and what a wonderful treat on a miserably wet Saturday in January... drinking well now, this wine will benefit from some further aging, and will drink well 2012-2015 with ease.
• PAIRINGS:   same as above; duck, venison, pheasant if you're feeling "plucky" (pardon the pun)... try as a first course pumpernickle crostini rubbed with roast chives and chevre, topped with some duck carpaccio. The depth of the pumpernickle off the black berries, the chives do the same, the chevre off the acids and a mild game meat like duck off the milder tannins

     Thank you very much to http://www.deserthills.ca/ for giving me a bottle of this wonderful wine to try... it is as much a delight because it's from British Columbia as it is in and of itself. Always a marvel to me just how much BC winemaking has grown in the past decade... 10 years ago I was hard-pressed to find BC wines I truly enjoyed, and now I find it just as difficult to keep up!

CIN-CIN~!!!   SLAINTE~!!!   CHEERS~!!!

Desert Hills Unoaked Chardonnay

Hot, hot, hot.

Finally Summer is here with a vengeance and the temperature has gone from 12C to 30C in 2 days. Feels good.

But what to serve Mrs Astudentofwine in such heat for dinner? Why a little sweet Thai chili marinated pork loin, stir-fry vegetables with ginger & cilantro, and a fine bottle of Desert Hills Unoaked Chardonnay.

I must admit that Chardonnay hasn't always been my favorite varietal, but recently I seem to be growing into it. Producers like http://www.deserthills.ca/ are certainly part of that influence with their round flavors, well balanced acids, and versatile pairing with a host of Summer foods.

2008 Unoaked Chardonnay

**bronze medal - Grand Harvest International**

14%, $17 **very good value**

• pale gold straw color
• moderate+ intense nose of chrysanthemums, orchard fruit, lilies, honey, dandelions
• moderate++ crisp, slightly biting acids, moderate intense flavors same as the nose, with more emphasis on the orchard fruit and very distant floral flavors - finish is lime zest (from the terroir I believe)
• an invigorating wine that opens the palate and loves Summer food: grilled pork with mushrooms, chicken scallopini with lemon chevre sauce, poached prawns with a sambal orange dipping sauce... the list goes on and on

Desert Hills, Black Sage Bench

Desert Hills Estate Winery ( http://www.deserthills.ca/ ) was kind enough to send me some of their recent award winning wines. Wow, what a treat! True enough, Canada (and BC) are producing some excellent wines these days... truly artisan craftsmanship all across the country. But - but these really were lovely wines.

Starting with the Viognier, I wasn't really sure what to expect. I don't have alot of experience with them, and what little I do have is most recently because of John Clerides @ Marquis Wine Cellar ( http://www.marquis-wines.com/ ) and his passion for Alban estates ( http://www.albanvineyards.com/ ). John Alban makes wines in the Rhone style, and I will have to take everyones word for that because I really can't remember the last time I had a Rhone Viognier... but I know I like John Alban's Viogniers. Rich stonefruit flavors and a bouquet of flowers, that is how I know this varietal. Desert Hills version is quite different:

2009 Viognier

*winner gold @ The All Canadian Wine Championship 2010

13.3%, $20 approximately *Very Good Value

• pale gold straw color
• moderately intense nose of waxy-petroleum, orchard fruit especially rich pear, hints of chamomile, austere terroir
• moderate+ acids, palate is a match for the nose, with intense flavors of lime & grapefruit showing throughout
• very long structure, good balance and light to medium body - this wine does best when served at cellar temperature or just below

Loved the wine; a completely new style of Viognier for me! Austere acids and light-medium body made me think this could be an instant Summer hit. Absolute perfect pairing with salmon, we ended up having it with braised chicken with fresh herbs & loved every drop.

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Next was the Pinot Gris that we've had before, and enjoyed every time. We had friends over for dinner last night, and one friend is a vegetarian... thus I made a roast acorn squash stuffed with wild rice pilaf mixed with BC chevre (goat's cheese). On the side was a compote of cranberry, orange and caramelized onions, and grilled asparagus with grilled field tomatoes tossed in olive oil and balsamic reduction. Ah - to savor fine food in the company of good people (or is that good food in fine company?)... we had a fire in the outside fireplace and loved the balance of wine & food.

2008 Pinot Gris

*award winner in 3 competitions 2010

14%, $20, *Very Good Value*

• moderate- intense nose of pineapple, citrus & candied fruit
• moderate++ acids, balanced by moderate intense palate of green apples, bright lemony citrus and a minerality reminiscent of Muscadet or Alvarino
• light to medium body, very long structure, very good balance - once again I would (and do) serve at or just below cellar temperature

This wine adores chevre! Anything goat cheese will be an instant success with this wine.

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2007 Small lots Cabernet-Merlot

*gold medal @ Tasters Guild International 2010

14%, $25, **EXCELLENT Value**

• deepest plum color, minimal brick rim
• fully intense bouquet of leather, gamey meat, blackberries, hot alcohol, dark chocolate
• moderate acids, moderate++ tannins, moderate+ intense flavors that match the nose: dark chocolate shows through especially well with a herbaceous finish
• moderate+ body, great structure and great balance

In My Humble Opinion, a brilliantly crafted Rhone-styled blend. It has everything you could want in a $40 for $25... need I say more? Try it with a free-range beef tenderloin or even grilled merguez sausage.

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2009 Gamay Noir

**Best of Class, gold, Los Angeles Wine & Spirit Competition 2010

14%, $20, **great value**

• moderate garnet centre
• moderate+ intense nose of heirloom tomatoes, old fashioned black licorice, leather & garrigue (savory herbs)
• moderate++ acids, moderate+ tannins, moderately intense flavors that mimic the nose. Emphasis is tomatoes in all their glory & savory herbs

Great wine, much improved by serving it as my friend and colleague Sebastian LeGoff does: slightly chilled, it tames the acids down a shade to allow the fruit to show through. And what wonderful acids - and what wonderful fruit... a pleasure to drink on it's own: try it as we did with a roasted pepper & roma tomato pasta, or sitting on the deck with a little charcuterie of sausages, cheeses & olives!

a Beaujolais by any other name...

Gamay Noir - ah you do smell as sweet! Okay, perhaps the Shakespeare reference should have ended there because, let's face it, Gamey Noir doesn't smell smeet... unless you count the smell of ripe heirloom tomatoes as sweet (which can be argued).

BC is lucky enough to have wonderful terroir for Gamay Noir (Gamay is the varietal used to make Beaujolais Nouveau - but only Gamay from Beaujolais can be called Beaujolais) especially along a little stretch of road called "The Black Sage Bench". Black Sage Bench is also sometimes known as The Golden Mile and lies in the south Okanagan, south of the town of Oliver. a rugged mix of rocky and sandy soils with long, heat infused summers.

WINE A

clear visual;

• moderate cherry or garnet centre
• slight pale cherry/strawberry rim indicating little age
• moderate+ legs indicating alcohol 13%+ (was actually 14%)

clean nose; moderate- intense notes of

• dusty, earthy terroir
• overripe heirloom tomatoes

clean palate; 0 dryness, moderate++ acid, moderate tannin, moderate+ intense flavors of

• cherry or grape tomatoes
• slight copperiness
• young baie rouges, especially red currant

moderate- body, moderate+ alcohol, long long structure

Fresh, crisp acids are balanced by beautifully structured smooth tannins. This wine is drinking perfectly right now! I prefer it on it's own at the start of a meal, or if you must balance the flavors - balance it with a thick slice of brie on fresh baguette... bon appetit!

2008 Gamay Noir, Desert Hills (Black Sage Bench, BC)

**drink this right now @ $20

big beautiful Bordeaux blends

What is a Bordeaux blend?

OMG can of worms. A Bordeaux blend is a blend of 2 or more of the 6 varietals grown in Bordeaux. Makes sense right? Except now it's not 6 it's 5 because Carmenere is not grown in Bordeaux anymore except for a few eccentrics. Oh - and the blend changes every year because of a myriad of factors affecting the vines and the grapes.

So. So it's also the term (loosely used) for anyone who is blending a multiple of varietals to create a wine with greater depth.

In other words, Bordeaux blends are alot of work, every year - and as my Grandmother may have said once "the proof is in the pudding". IE; work hard at making a beautiful blend of 70% Cab Sauv, 15% Cab Franc and 15% Merlot - and you will have something infinitely superior than when you started out.

Sounds kinda like marriage!

WINE A

clear visual

• deep ruby centre
• pale cherry/slight brickish rim
• big, heavy legs indicating high alcohol (13.5%+)

clean nose; moderate+ intense bouquet of

• deep black fruit
• wild grass & a touch of garide (savory herb)
• sweet baie rouge
• well rounded oak
• meat

clean palate; 0 dryness, moderate acids, moderate++ tannin, moderately intense notes of

• apple pips (the oaking)
• touch of iron (once again - the meatiness of it)
• some yet rich black fruit (deepest plum, some blackberry, some late saskatoon)
• chalky terroir

This is a wonderfully balanced red, entering (IMHO) the prime of it's life. In human terms, this wine would be 26 years old - old enough to have some sophistication and yet young enough that we can still see lots of room for development. I think this will cellar well for years, and yet it seems to be losing none of the richness of the fruit. The tannins are full, yet smoothing down enough to sit and enjoy with or without food. All in all, an excellent wine!

2005 Desert Hills "Mirage", Black Sage Bench, BC **BUY THIS @ $35**

a little treat in a bottle

Every once-in-awhile, I get a present in a bottle that is worth saving... more often than not though, it's a present worth drinking.

So I got one of those presents from a friend and colleague, Ian from Desert Hills. And may I say "Thank-you Ian", what Desert Hills is releasing this year will continue to re-affirm their reputation as a producer of some of the finest wines BC has to offer.

WINE A

clear visual;
fully intense deep burgundy core with a slight cherry rim and strong legs

clean nose;
fully intense notes of tobacco, black berries (currant, saskatoon), rich plum, green herbaceousness, deep earthy notes from the terroir and a hint of wild exotic floral

clean palate;
0 dryness, moderate acids, full tannins, fully intense flavors of tobacco, leather, deep black fruit & berries, chalk and terroir, a touch of spice - notably black and white pepper

full body
full alcohol (14% but incredibly smooth)
excellent length at over 10 seconds

This is a huge, rich wine that deserves your time and special attention! Savor it. Relax. Start the fireplace, open the wine, crack a good book and give yourself some down time. I don't even think I'll share this with friends until I've tried it a few times... it's just that good.

If you must share it with friends over a meal, try it with a grilled ribeye steak of unsurpassed quality. Throw a little fresh rosemary on the coals before the steak goes on, but don't cover the steak with any sauce - just enjoy beautiful beef and a phenomenal wine.

2007 Desert Hills, Proprietor's Reserve Malbec **BUY THIS @$30**