Haywire “Lunar New Year” wines

 http://www.haywirewinery.com/

 

The challenge with many people in the wine business is that they start treating wine as art and forgetting that it is a business. In and of itself there’s nothing wrong with viewing wine as art but when it interferes with a business’ ability to remain fiscally viable then the vision needs to change. This has never been a problem for the wise folks at Haywire who manage to blend art and function in virtually every endeavor they create: Lunar New Year wines being the example today.

 When I first heard that someone was crafting a special release for the Lunar New Year I thought “Capitalism at its finest; these folks are just chasing the market” which, really, isn’t such a bad thing if it’s done well. China is now poised to be the largest consumer of wine on the planet… who wouldn’t want a piece of that?!

But as my step-family is Cantonese I cringed inwardly. I had visions of ginger-infused syrupy sadness lacking depth beyond Beaujolais Nouveau and tasting more of my morning ginseng tea. I couldn’t have been any further from the truth. Here are wines that any winemaker would be proud to put his/her name to and showcase not only varietal correctness but also speak in sophisticated ways of their terroir. Truly finessed, each of them, I was a bit humbled and started my due diligence in researching just what this could portend: after all, it was only a few years ago that one of the most highly regarded houses of Bordeaux put a Chinese symbol on its bottle.

It caused a wave of sales that outstripped anything conceived.

So the savvy craftsmen at Haywire decide to follow, but, in an unexpected way; you see, this is one of their first releases and it’s for the “Year of the Sheep”. This is considered a very unlucky year by many Asians and this is especially true for children’s birth years and business. Creating a new wine is certainly like a kind of “birth” and this is most definitely business, so why do it? It wouldn’t be the first time a winery created a release on only certain years.

Well as I pondered this I looked at my 8-month old son who was helping me with this article *(all punctuation is his, not mine). Adam is half Italian and half Irish; his Italian family name actually meaning “sheep” in their dialect. It seemed to me, in that moment, that sheep were actually very lucky for some people like me. And I got past the nay-sayers who conjecture doom and gloom at every corner and found the beauty of the “Year of the Sheep”.

Loyalty. That’s a quality to those born in this lunar year. So is generosity. And kindness. Hard for me to imagine bestowing those traits just because of the month they’re born in, but, I’ve heard crazier explanations for the cosmos before.

And I went back to the wines I was making notes on: so filled with generosity of flavor, brimming with “loyal” representation of the grape and the land and with very “kind” pricing… and so it seems, to this writer, that 2015 will be one lucky “Year of the Sheep”.

2012 “Lunar New Year Red”

blend of (mostly) Gamay Noir, small amount of Syrah

89+ points, Very Good Value

$22.90 in BC

*DOES NOT REQUIRE DECANTING

… to get this quality in Gamay Noir from Beaujolais in the south of Burgundy one would need to invest more then $23 CAD and invest it wisely. This wine carries rich aromas of warm earth, dark cocoa, stewing blackberry/plum/raspberry and the hint of Schezuan peppercorn on the finish (thank-you Syrah). The bright, full, fresh palate carries lively medium+ currant acids that titillate the tastebuds and are a brilliant way to start any meal or simply enjoy on their own as the guests are arriving. The medium fine/slightly grippy tannin carry their weight deceptively as they are finessed well beyond the price-point of the wine and deliver a performance more in line with wines twice the cost. This is a wine that at the same time will impress the ardent connoisseur in your midst and be perfect for the friend who “really is more of a beer person” – or so they say. Food pairing options abound from ginger and lemongrass infused beef/pork to the salty treat of soya crispy skin duck; the bold red and black fruit tones will balance salt and yet the warm earthy/spice/pepper tones will delight in bringing balance to Asian flavors. Meant for consuming now (Stelvin enclosure) this wine can age well for several years but will not develop in bottle. Enjoy 2014-2017

2013 “Lunar New Year White”

blend of Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, Viognier

90++points, EXCELLENT VALUE

$19.90 in BC

*DO NOT SERVE TOO COLD; 12C MINIMUM TO PRESERVE THE AROMATICS

… this might be the prettiest wine I tried in 2014! Whilst normally this style isn’t a “go-to-wine” for me, this particular blend is impressive on many levels: aroma, balance, structure and value. The aromas are seductively layered with notes of lychee fruit, pink grapefruit, honey and exotic flowers… it’s an incredibly easy wine to want to drink which brings me to the palate. The balance and structure are absolutely flawless for under $20; bright/fresh/zippy medium+ lemon and grapefruit acid dance in unison. This wine loves south Asian flavors: Vietnamese, Cambodian, Thai… coconut milk, ginger, lemongrass and galangal all delight in the nuanced levels here. Which brings me to value: STUNNING. Want a blend like this from outside of BC? Firstly I don’t know any region blending these varietals but secondly something similar would start at $25 and work its way up… buy a few extra bottles as this gem will easily last a few years in the cellar/wine-fridge if you can resist 

“lucky money” from Canada in the Year-of-the-Sheep

Many thanks to Haywire Wines and their PR firm TownHall Brands (  http://townhallbrands.com/ )for taking the time and expense to send these lovely wines to me.

As always you can find more recipes, free wine reviews and

my notes on premium distillates and cigars:

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @ www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

Desert Hills Estate Winery, BC VQA Okanagan Valley

 www.DesertHills.ca

brothers Randy and Jessie

 It’s the Holiday Season so I’m a sucker for a “feel-good” kind of story. Like 3 brothers who move in the mid ’80s to British Columbia from India and start working the new family farm…

Not a big stretch, right? They had a farm back home, Dad gets a little property in the Okanagan just outside of Oliver, and now they’re growing fruit. But the 3 brothers look around – undoubtedly noticing the large sign as one enters town that proclaims Oliver as “The Wine Capital of Canada”. True? Not for me to say, but there are a lot of wineries there… so the brothers go to Dad and say “Dad, let’s grow grapes. We can sell them for more then apples or peaches!”

Dad thinks about this, decides to go out on a limb and trust his boys. Much expense later, the family is producing wine grapes and selling them to local wineries and making more money. Good right? But not good enough for the Toor brothers who now go back to Dear Old Dad and say “Hey Dad, the grapes are really good. I mean really good… let’s start making our own wine.”

Dad goes back out on the limb, the family goes into the wine-making business now. And guess what?

Oh damned. You weren’t supposed to actually guess it… yes! The wine was also good. I mean really good. Good enough that they have won the prestigious Lieutenant Governor’s Award for excellence in winemaking (TWICE) and the winner of Canada’s Best Red.

And they planted the first Syrah in the South Okanagan.

This means that they’ve got some major determination, but also the foresight to look ahead of the curve and anticipate what might be lying there. That’s a good story in my books, and more then a little inspiring. But the best part to selfish-me is that these wines are widely available and at very reasonable prices. And my proof? Right there in the glass my friends:

2012 Chardonnay (unoaked)

solid 90 points

320 cases produced

*BEST WITH ONE/TWO RUN(S) THROUGH THE AERATOR

• a bouquet that’s generous in floral and mineral tones, this wine is expressive of whence it comes from. The crisp, clean palate is rich in the same minerality and accentuated by flavors of wild summer flowers, white tea and young stonefruit (such as apricots and peaches) with a healthy dose of warm Golden Delicious apples thrown in for good measure. Well balanced, with good structure and decent length on the palate – this wine does as well on it’s own as it would with food. And what food?? As this is much more French in it’s approach then Californian, I would opt for a French classic like poulet aux quarantes l’ail (chicken roast with 40 garlic) or perhaps butter poached scallops with asparagus and hollandaise… there are enough acids to handle more robustly fatty meals 

2011 Viognier, Sira’s vineyard

89+/90 points

1000 cases produced

*BEST WITH ONE/TWO RUN(S) THROUGH THE AERATOR

• once again, very French in it’s approach, this is an understated version of Viognierwith tight acid and a bouquet quite eloquently speaking about apricot compote, white tea and crushed-slate minerals. The balance is good, and the structure is even better with the length on the palate being considerable at 15-20 seconds before fading. I would have gladly scored this 91+ points if the bouquet was as expressive as the palate, which is as delicious as it is professional… a perfect pairing with WestCoast cuisine, this is brilliant with brown-sugar barbequed salmon, buttered fiddleheads and steamed new potatoes. And a word of caution; ensure you serve this wine under 15c/59F – too warm and the acids become unbalanced and bitter

2012 Gewurztraminer

91+ points

575 cases produced

*DECANTING/AERATION UNNECESSARY

• an icon from the Desert Hills line-up, this varietal shines on their terroir. Bold aromas of lychee, pink and white grapefruit, exotic flowers and guava erupt from the glass with a keenly edged full acid on the palate to keep it in focus. Generous mid-palate flavors that mimic the bouquet brilliantly, good balance and structure with a medium length palate that is fun on it’s own but can pair with some serious food. This is for your gourmet Thai/Vietnamese cuisine and will make you look like a superstar when paired with the flavors of Thai basil, ginger, galangal and curry~! Once again though, a caveat: don’t serve over 15c/59F or the acids will appear unbalanced

2012 Gamay (Noir)

91+ points

*DECANTING/AERATION UNNECESSARY

• if Gewurztraminer would be their flagship white varietal, then Gamay Noir would most certainly be (in my humble opinion) Desert Hills flagship red. Made famous, or infamous, by the Beaujolais Nouveau craze of the late 80′s/early 90′s (and modern day Japan) – Gamay Noir is capable of greatness when produced on the appropriate soil and crafted by artisans. This is certainly on the same level as many top-producers in Fleurie or Moulin-a-Vent~! A wildly expressive nose with aromas of worn leather, warm earth, pencil shavings, lightly candied blackberries and black currants, and a last hint of savory herbs… the palate follows suit with moderate acid, fine silty tannin and a generous expression that has balance, structure and medium+ length.
• Food pairing?? Try this with your simple food to allow the wine to shine: artisanal Tuesday-night pizza with spicy Capicolla, local chevre (goat’s cheese), sun-dried tomato, artichoke hearts and a drizzle of white truffle oil

2009 Cabernet Franc

Eagle’s Nest Vineyard

88 points

302 cases produced

*DECANTING/AERATION UNNECESSARY

• soft aromas of green pepper, warm earth and graphite-like pencil shavings greet the consumer while the palate delivers a modicum of tight red current acid overlayed by grippy young tannin. Whilst the balance is quite good, the structure is fair at best and the length on the palate is short to medium. This is an excellent candidate for Summer sangria and Winter mulled wine and, should you have some in your cellar, is best consumed sooner rather then later.

2008 “Mirage”

Cab-Sauv driven Bordeaux-styled blend (Left Bank)

91 points

980 cases produced

• yes, Bordeaux styling can be found in the most northerly of wine-growing regions. It can even be eloquent, as exemplified by the “Mirage”; sonorous aromas of warm earth, old leather, graphite minerality, blackberry/blueberry/currant jam, wild herbs growing on the hillside all marry together quite seamlessly. The palate is driven by the bright red berry tones turning darker with the five years of aging, and held together by the clean and lean mineral edge. Very good balance and excellent structure, this palate holds well at medium+ or over 20 seconds developing on the tastebuds. Excellent now, hold in your cellar for several years
• A wine of this structure merits food with equal thoughtfulness and consideration. Perhaps sous-vide beef tenderloin stuffed with Fraser Valley roast chestnuts and Qualicum blue cheese with a fresh rosemary jus, parsnip pave, candied eggplant crisps and charred radicchio salad…  intense flavors all, and all will draw strong notes from the wine

relaxing at the end of a hard day

Three brothers who turn a modest family business into a family legacy in the space of a generation. A good story, but then there’s the icing on the cake… it turns out that the brothers have taken some of the profits from the winery and built a sports arena in their hometown in India. Not content with merely flashing money around to look good, or assuage their egos, these fine men make a point of returning home every year to catch-up with family and friends, and ensure the arena is being run properly.

Because they care, these Toor brothers. They care about their family, they care about quality, and they care about their community: the New World and the Old, merging into something better then either was on it’s own. And that’s a good story, a really good story and more then reason enough for me to seek out their wines on a habitual basis: the Gewurztraminer a perennial treat for my beautiful wife.

Ask yourself, what do you respect about the last winery you supported with your consumer dollars?

Many thanks to Renaissance Wine Merchants, representatives of Desert Hills, for the sample bottles.  www.renaissancewine.ca

As always, I look forward to your thoughts, comments and questions. Here, or:

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

Perseus wines, British Columbia vqa

 http://perseuswinery.com/

 

A winemaker friend of mine told me recently:

   "Sending my wine to competition is roughly equivalent to the stress I might have faced, had I sent my children to beauty pageants."

...

Rob Ingram, owner

A Little Dramatic I thought, but I gave him the benefit of the doubt. Flash-forward a few weeks and I'm scribbling away at my notes for the new release of Perseus Winery, his words coming back to haunt me. I considered the wineries (relatively) new owner Rob Ingram and what stresses and challenges he must be facing in his day-to-day business as he sends forth his enological minions to all parts of Canada.

One of the biggest stresses must be that he has worked through three consulting winemakers in as many years, trying to find the right fit. Having settled his focus now with JM Bouchard, who is best known to British Columbians for his work at Road 13 just down the street, I can only believe that a greater clarity will come quickly to the wines.

A native of Quebec, which is perhaps better known these days for the decadent "iced-cider" then it is for wine production, Jean Martin (or JM as he prefers) never planned on becoming a winemaker. But that being said, I've met with those who hail from a multi-generation wine-making family and smile in recognition as I hear JM saying "Its all about the dirt!"

You read it in my reviews time and time again, how the top-level professionals in the wine industry have moved in-line with the idea that 90% of making a wine is growing great grapes. We forget, sometimes, how contrary that is to what was wide-spread practice in the industry only a short generation ago (and in some cases, much-much more recent then that!)... there was a time when making wine was more chemistry then artistry, more equation then inspiration and perspiration. We have moved forward, as a collective, by looking back at the "ancestral farming" and even "ancestral wine-making", when less was more and we didn't put into the soil (or the wine) what we didn't want to take out.

And what I took from my glass(es) of Perseus was delightful:

2011 Chardonnay

*BENEFITS FROM A 30 MINUTE DECANT OR 1 RUN THROUGH THE AERATOR

89+ points

• displaying a smokey/flinty mineral-driven nose, this wine has zippy (full) lemon-peel acids that will work wonders with roast chicken! Packing a strong initial flavor-punch of the same mineral tones, I think it safe to say that the winemaker enjoys his white-Burgundy very much. If you want to pair food off the minerality, then oysters/clams/mussels are a natural! Oysters Rockefeller anyone???

2012 Gewurztraminer

90 points

*NO NEED TO DECANT/AERATE

• This varietal is to wine what a sundress is to women: highly complimentary. And few places in the world are producing so many different interpretations of Gewurztraminer as is British Columbia; this being a personal  favorite! The bouquet is a kaleidoscope of lush tropical flowers, peach/apricot compote and yet delicate mineral-tones underneath. The palate is awash in bright (full) grapefruit acids that are going to be perfect with my next seafood Thai dish and the relatively low alcohol means that I can have that food as spicy as I want. Yum~!

2011 Merlot

89 points

*BENEFITS FROM 1 HOUR DECANT OR 1 RUN THROUGH AN AERATOR

• Dark ruby core and bright cherry rim, this wine is a very cool-climate example of Merlot. The aromas are full of bright red cranberry/raspberry/currant tones with a hint of warm/spicy musk/earth underneath. The palate is full of those same, ultra-cool, ultra-bright red berry flavors with the slight earthy background and huge chunky tannin just waiting for big, rich winter foods to balance it.

2011 Syrah/Malbec

91+ points

*MINIMAL DECANTING/AERATION NEEDED

• Stunning. From the moment I poured it in the glass, this wine flooded my room with heady aromas of warm tropical flowers, red and black berries, precise graphite-like minerality, subtle oak and more... the sophistication of the bouquet was easily matched by the concentration and balance of the palate which exuded many of the same characteristics and in a refreshingly unique manner. This is not classical Syrah, nor is it classic Argentinian Malbec, but it is a delightful mix of both those worlds. I want no food with it, only my fireplace and a great cigar. But, if I needed to eat, then certainly I would use beef as the Argentinians do and delight my friends with how brilliantly it pairs with any steak. Bon appetit~!
  

2010 Select lots Cabernet-Sauvignon

90 points

*NEEDS 1 HOUR+ DECANT OR 2 RUNS THROUGH AN AERATOR

• of note: my preference for this wine would be to cellar minimum 2 years to allow it to really come into it's own
• a deep, dark and inky wine, the aromas are full of traditional red and black currant, leather and graphite notes. Medium+ acids and full/chewy/meaty tannin make me want to use this as a food-wine... the palate is very similar to the nose and enjoys a medium or average length finish. Unquestionably a brilliant choice for your Winter dishes of: roast beef, pot roast, prime rib etc. Want a different pairing? Try this with an ultra-rich dark chocolate dessert and be amazed~!

2010 "Invictus"

Bordeaux-styled blend of: 56% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec

89+ points

*BENEFITS FROM 1 HOUR DECANT OR 1 RUN THROUGH AN AERATOR

• so dark it seems more black then purple... bruised one might say. Medium concentration aromas that start with the freshness of red raspberries/currants and develop into some blueberry/blackberry tones, warm savory herbs and earth with more then a hint of vanilla. Crisp med+ red currant acids and chewy full tannin, an approachable alcohol (14.9% ABV) to be wary of - truly a wine made for big meals. Very good balance and good structure with medium- length... this wine won't disappoint with your hearty Winter dishes, or for the person who just can't help but fire-up their barbeque for just - one - more - steak!

Perseus is a young winery even by BC standards, which means that for most of the world it's barely out of the womb. But. But with talented, passionate individuals like Jean-Martin Bouchard to watch over her, and with the determination of an owner like Rob Ingram (who managed to secure said talent!), I have no doubts that the winery and the wines will continue to grow and evolve. And any winery that evolves from making their own utterly unique blends right out-of-the-gate will undoubtedly grow into something worth watching.

The proof is in the glass!

As always, I welcome your thoughts here or on Twitter @AStudentofWine

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Tinhorn Creek Winery, 2012 releases

Regular followers of my articles know of my pride in BC winemakers and the culture that has sprung up around them over the past few decades. In 1998 in BC there were about 3 dozen wineries, 33 to be precise. In 2012 the count is closer to 240, give or take.

   From 33 to 240 wineries in less then a generation; a growth of 600%.

the vista at Tinhorn Creek

   But it's not just the changes in the amount of wine produced and consumed that has  that really makes me pause; it is the style and calibre of wine that has evolved at the same time that makes me pause for breath. Just ask the crew at Tinhorn Creek! www.Tinhorn.com

    These guys have been around for all of this change, and have more often then not been leading the charge! Kenn Oldfield bought this property in the early 1990's, which had already been planted with grape vines in the 1960's. In local terms this means it is ancient. And if I can remember all of this, how ancient would that make me??

   Regardless of your age, whether it's the bloom of youth or the gentleness of maturity, all are watching Tinhorn continue to lead the foray into a deeper, fuller exploration of our BC terroir. I was fortunate enough to do my portfolio tasting this year with Korol Kulko, assistant winemaker, who has been developing her skill-set and knowledge of the region's diversity over 15 years with Tinhorn.

2012 Release

2011 Pinot Gris

91 points

$18 / Tinhorn Crush Club $15.25~!!!

• 30% put through malo-lactic fermentation (or degradation as some winemakers will call it), then fermented in 100% stainless steel barrels. The barrels are approximately barrique size *225 L) if memory serves and the winery uses this specifically to increase the amount of lees contact. The lees are then stirred weekly to give more dimension both in flavors and texture
• lees contact is noticed immediately on the nose in beautifully rich toasty-brioche-bread like notes reminiscent of non-vintage sparkling French wine, with soft stonefruit filling out the edges
• balanced yet vivid acids with a creamy mouth-feel, fruit tones are lively and create a "little-too-easy-to-drink" summer wine

2011 Chardonnay
89 points
$18 / Tinhorn Crush Club $15.25~!!!

• 100% malo-lactec
• 15% in New French oak, stirring of lees twice/week for 3 months
• on the nose; clean minerality and under-ripe pineapple, papaya
• on the palate; zippy acids well balanced by the big-mouth feel. An easy to understand, direct version of Chardonnay that can still articulate where it came from.

    Korol and I spoke briefly about what 2011 had been like as a growing season; cool, long and drawn-out without much of the blazing heat that the south Okanagan is known for in Summer. Korol remarked "If we knew going into each year that it was going to be like that, we could plan for it and make specific decisions to capitalize on it."

   I responded that many of the winemakers I'ld been speaking to over the past few months had been vocal about facing the same challenges with 2011 and more then a few had voiced: "2011 will separate the professionals from the amateurs". 

   I had already been convinced which group Tinhorn belonged to, and I had many more wines to go~!

2011 2-Bench white   (Chardonnay, Semillion, Muscat, Viognier)
90 points
$23 / $19.50 Crush Club

•  non malo-lactic, but still the use of some small stainless steel tanks for increased lees contact
• on the nose; the exotics of pineapple and papaya and softened by a light summer floral touch from the Viognier, and then an exquisite, slightly sweet, ripe stonefruit finish
• on the palate this wine is all about food; lighter in style with pronounced acidity and true dimension to the mineral/fruit tones this can pair well with poultry, wild fowl, seafood, a whole host of cheeses and cheese dishes. As a chef/wine steward this is paradise in a bottle... many wines claim to pair well with a variety of foods. This wine doesn't claim to, it just does!
• as a note, the acids on this vintage are pronounced to the point of being slightly aggressive... this wine will age well for several years and will be drinking more smoothly even by Spring 2013

   And while I had tasted several vintages of Tinhorn releases, this was my first year up to stay at the property. My wife and daughter and I walked the vineyard as the sun was going down the night before and had enjoyed the cooling breezes that came down the hillside. Walking through the steep rows of vines, I was taken by the emphasis on growing wild grasses between the rows and the attention to plantings of indigenous herbs and brush nearby. Korol spoke as to how, though there were some practices at the vineyard that could be interpreted as being bio-dynamic in nature, that wasn't a direction that Tinhorn was moving in at the present.

   Their current project of switching to drip-irrigation has been more then enough to keep them occupied! But it does reap a whirlwind of benefits including a dramatic reduction in mold issues, rootstock that digs deeper on a yearly basis, and great cost savings on the water bill (not to mention the environmental kudos!).

 2011 Rose

90+ points

$22, $19.50 crush club

• 100% Cab Franc
• on the nose; a rich cacophony of wild floral,
• on the palate; light salmon color, this wine has striking acidity which makes it a natural for food pairings and hot summer afternoons. Dry, savory, this is the rose for red-wine drinkers!
• I have to add, what a great way to start a meal... if you imagine a long day of work, and all of the palate-fatigue we face with take-out food, too much coffee, etc, etc... a crisp, full-bodied rose is an excellent way to excite and awaken the palate

2011 Gewurztraminer
89 points
$18, $15.25 crush club!

• on the nose; typical Gewurztraminer roses, lychee, grapefruit with a strong mineral undercurrant
• on the palate; atypically crisp, clean, vibrant... almost racy, the acids are balanced but full of vigor. Strong mineral flavors balance the varietals natural tendancy to sweeter fruit flavors
• definitely a cool-climate wine! on the drier style at only 9 grams/L residual sugar

  
2011 Kerner Icewine
91 points
$30, $25 crush-club

• on the nose a fully intense candied apple, caramel, floral background
• the palate comes in crisp and full of lively acids that balance a stunningly rich and layered concentration of fruit flavors

   Korol then shared a story with me about the wildly delicious Pinot Noir that I  adore.  There is alot of Pinot grown here in BC, and with good reason I believe... some of our winemakers have produced high 90-point wines in recent years and I personally feel that there are more of those numbers to come. We have a staggering amount of talent for such a small wine-producing region, and Tinhorn Creek certainly fits in well with the upper-echelon of the province.

    Tinhorn faced a common issue with wineries; when to sell the wine. Some wineries will  sell their wine as soon as it comes out of the barrel, and try to make a reasonably quick return on investment. The challenge with this is that many wines need some time in bottle to mature before they drink their best... some wines may only need 6 months, and some Barolos arguably need 10 years or longer. But who should pay for the storage? Who should pay for the time?

   Often-times it is only the more established wineries who are on their second or third or thirteenth generation of owners who can afford such "luxury". The winemaking staff felt so strongly about the quality and potential quality of their Pinot Noir that they pitched the idea to the financial team to hold the wine for three years. A tough concept for a relatively new winery which only starting making profit just over a decade ago... but the winemakers were firm and they got their three years.

   The result? You know where to find that...

2009 Pinot Noir
91+ points
$ 20, $18 crush club

• a sumptously layered chewy red wine just entering the prime of life... this wine has years of development still ahead of it. Great balance and concentration, both Korol and I noted that the south Okanagan wild herbs were present in the bouquet and palate
• this wine is light enough to enjoy slightly chilled in the heat of summer and yet has enough presence to appreciate in the middle of a Vancouver winter; 4 degrees and pouring rain this would be mighty cozy whilst sitting next to the fireplace

   So it's obvious that I'm biased when it comes to Tinhorn Creek wines; I like them, plain and simple.

indigenous flora at Tinhorn Creek

   But why shouldn't I?? I like great wines, and I LOVE them if I can get them at a reasonable price. Tinhorn Creek delivers that , and, quite frankly overdelivers. If this tasting wasn't proof enough, then feel free to read my previous articles recounting other encounters with this BC gem.

http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2011/07/tinhorn-creek-vineyards.html

http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2010/05/many-joys-of-tinhorn-creek-bc.html

http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2011/08/tinhorn-creek-cabernet-franc-okanagan.html

http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2010/05/late-harvest-wine-in-spring.html

 

As always, I truly look forward to your comments and questions.

SLAINTE (gaelic)   =   CINCIN (italian)   =   CHEERS~!!!

Tinhorn Creek vineyards, Okanagan Valley DVA, BC

I like to support local industry. I especially like supporting local industry when they are producing quality goods, but I love supporting local when they produce quality products in a responsible manner.

   Let me introduce you to Tinhorn Creek vineyards (www.tinhorn.com).

   Tinhorn creek is Canada's first carbon-neutral winery and, just as important, they produce quality wines. Sandra Oldfield is the newly appointed CEO and President of the winery, as well as wearing the hat of winemaker and so it truly is under the leadership and guidance of Sandra that Tinhorn Creek has become a fixture of BC winemaking.

2010 Pinot Gris

$18   ** Good Value **

Awards:   SILVER - San Fransisco International Wine Competition, 2011

Maturation:   one third sur-lies for approximately 8-10 weeks, then blended with the rest. 100% stainless steel

• nose:   clean; fully intense and youthful aromas of dusty summer florals and orchardfruit with a light mineral backbone
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (green apple) acids, moderate+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking the nose. Good balance and structure, medium length
• PAIRINGS:   vibrant yet restrained acids made me think of a lighter flavored and less fatty fish such as our local shark; dogfish... try grilled shark with salsa verde and watch the grill bring dimension through contrast and the pungent herbaceousness of the salsa open the Pinot Gris naturally light herbal notes

2009 Chardonnay

$17   *** Very Good Value ***

Awards:   SILVER - World Value Wine Challenge, 2010 JUDGES CHOICE International Value Wine Awards, Wine Access Magazine, 2010

Maturation:  28% in new French oak for 2-3 months

• nose:   clean; moderate+ intense and youthful aromas of buttery pear, light exotic fruit and grilled pineapple... very modern BC
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (very well balanced lemon zest) acids, moderate+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking the nose in a cool-climate manner... refreshing~! Very good balance and structure, medium length
• PAIRINGS:   with the acidity and nuanced buttery/exotic/stonefruit flavors my mind immediately went to roast turkey with white-truffled chestnuts and perhaps a savory focaccia, sage and apple stuffing... but that's just me

2010 Gewurztraminer

$18   *** Very Good Value ***

maturation:   4 weeks stainless steel

• nose:   clean; moderate+ intense and youthful traditional aromas: rich rosehips, lush lychee, grapefruit marmalade, apricot coulis
• palate:   clean; dry, fully intense (very well integrated green apple) acids, moderate+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking well the nose. Very good balance and structure, medium length
• PAIRINGS:   the rich flavors and strong structure allow this wine to be paired with stronger flavored foods, whilst the natural fruitiness will soften spicy food... consider this as a natural not only with Vietnamese or Thai foods, but also East Indian food from any number of regions (from vindaloo to tiki masala)... for myself I thought of grilled chicken with spicy peanut and cilantro dipping sauce

2008 2-bench white

$23   *** Very Good to EXCELLENT Value ***

AwardsSILVER - West Coast Wine Competition, 2011
BRONZE - NorthWest Wine Summit, 2011
BRONZE - Canadian Wine Awards, 2010

varietals:   44% Chardonnay, 26% Sauvignon Blanc, 17% Semillon, 12% Viognier, and 1% Muscat

maturation:   Sauvignon Blanc was fermented in a stainless steel tank by itself, Semillon and Viognier were co-fermented together in stainless steel as were the Chardonnay and Muscat

• nose:   clean; moderate+ intense and developing aromas of papaya, ripe stonefruit, gala apples, strawberries and dried raisins
• palate: clean, dry, moderate+ to fully intense (green apple and lemon balm) acids, moderate+ to fully intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose. Very good balance and structure with a long length
• PAIRINGS:   although this layering in this wine would do well with the lighter green curried dishes, my mind went to Provencal bouillabaise with slight spicy rouille and grilled flatbread

Kenn at work in the field

Sandra's husband, Kenn Oldfield chairman, owner and co-founder of Tinhorn Creek, started his career in Alberta working the oilfields. Not much to do with wine, but it must have given him the passion to work with something sustainable and more picturesque then Northern Alberta tarsands. Kenn worked 14 years in the oil industry before turning his attention to wine and by 1994 had taken all the courses necessary for a Master's degree in viticulture from the University of California at Davis.

Sandra just happens to be originally from California and it was here that she got her first taste of the industry - working at the noted Rodeney Strong Vineyards in Sonoma. Sandra eventually came back from her new home in BC and finished her Master's of Enology from UC Davis as well. Together, husband and wife have a powerful amount of learning, but it is perhaps their tie with their land that sets them most apart.

Many champions of great winemaking will talk about the necessity of working with their land; of the harmonious co-existence that should take place between viticulturist and vineyard. Sandra and Kenn have done more then talk about it.

TLC, The Land Conservancy has recognized their work in creating a balanced ecosystem where everyone and everything is taken as having importance. Indigenous flora has been replanted in the vineyard to allow the natural system of the terroir to function as it should, and animal corridors have been created as well. Tinhorn Creek has even taken the effort to source 90% of their bottles from within 500 km (a short distance in Canadian terms) and of that, 35-50% is recycled glass.

2008 Pinot Noir

$20   *** Very Good to EXCELLENT Value ***

maturation:   old French oak 10 months, 24 months in bottle

• nose:   clean; moderate+ intense and developing bouquet of dry dusty soil, layers of cherries, light herbaceousness and fungal-mushroomy notes... slightly spicy finish
• palate:   clean, dry, moderate+ (red currant) acids, moderate+ to fully intense (chalky) tannins, moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick well the nose. Excellent balance and structure with medium+ length
• PAIRINGS:   Pinot Noir can be said to have one true food partner, and to me that is boeuf bourguignon... I would pair mine with spicy parmesan crisps

2008 Merlot

$18   *** Very Good Value ***

AwardsGOLD - All Canadian Wine Championships, 2011
GOLD - World Value Wine Challenge, 2010
SILVER - NorthWest Wine Summit, 2011
SILVER - Grand Harvest Awards, 2011
SILVER - New World International Wine Competition, 2011
SILVER - West Coast Wine Competition, 2011
BRONZE - Intervin Wine Competition, 2011
BRONZE - Canadian Wine Awards, 2010
BRONZE - Pacific Rim International Wine Compeition, 2011
BRONZE - San Fransisco International Wine Competition, 2011
Honourable Mention - International Wine & Spirit Competition, 2011
TOP100 - Vancouver Magazine Wine Awards, 2011

maturation:   new to 3-year old French oak for 12 months

• nose:   clean; moderate+ to fully intense and developing bouquet of cherries, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, red and black currants, dry dusty soil, slightly hot cinnamon-peppery finish
• palate:   clean, dry, fully intense (red currant) acids, moderate+ (chalky) tannins, moderate+ to fully intense and developing flavors mimicking the nose with a restrained mushroom-fungal note. Good balance, Very good structure and long- length
• PAIRINGS:   good merlot needs good steak~~ I would grill a simple striploin and finish with an herbed butter and a Chiliwack corn salsa

2007 Oldfield Series Merlot

$25   **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

AwardsGOLD - Grand Harvest Awards, 2011
SILVER - All Canadian Wine Competition
BRONZE - Canadian Wine Awards, 2010
BRONZE - Intervin Wine Competition, 2010
BRONZE - BC Wine Awards, 2010

varietals:   92% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Syrah

maturation:   8 months in 100% French oak (new to two year old), then 15 months in bottle

• nose:   clean; fully intense and developing bouquet of red and black cherries, strawberry compote, red and black currants, black roses, strong terroir
• palate:   clean, dry, moderate+ intense (red and black currant) acids, moderate+ (very well integrated chalky) tannins, moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose with the finish of old leather and light tobacco. Excellent balance and structure with long length
• PAIRINGS:   I said that a good merlot needs a good steak, and thus greatness deserves greatness: spend the money and buy the best ribeye or prime-rib you can... free-range, local, organic, Kobe if you can find it... then grill it with a hint of olive oil and sea-salt. That's it... maybe a piece of parsley for garnish **grin**

Tinhorn vines in autumn

I certainly do believe that supporting local industry is important for sustainable business to take place. That being said, I don't believe in supporting local just for the sake of supporting local. Local businesses, to me, need to provide a commodity that is competitive on a global level. Tinhorn Creek is doing that, and doing it in an environmental responsible manner. Tinhorn Creek has my business.

As always, I look forward to your questions and comments.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!