Grilled Ribeye meets CabSauv

The passion at Hopcott’s meats ( http://www.hopcottmeats.ca/ ) is nothing short of inspirational: this is what ribeye steak is supposed to be! And yet I hear time and time again from people that $15 on a steak is “just silly” and spending an extra $1/lb for free range/antibiotic free ground beef is “wasting money”. Well I’m pretty sure that a lot of the reasons we should all be investing in local butchers is not getting out there and so I knew I had to write an article on:

“Why should you spend the money?“

You and I both know that some grocery store in your neighborhood is selling striploin steaks this week: 4 for $12 or something similar. Great deal right? Who doesn’t like getting more for less? But then there’s the crux: are you really getting more?

On the one hand you’ve got bargain steaks at your grocer: cheap, probably not trimmed very well but you and I can handle that… probably more gristle/sinew/tendon then we would like as well, but we’re willing to swallow that *(pun intended). But what about the nutritional value? When you consume grass-fed beef, you increase your:

• Better Saturated Fat Profile
• Better Polyunsaturated Fat Profile
• More Antioxidants

*(many thanks to http://www.scienceofnaturalhealth.com/grass-fed-beef-nutrition.html)

What is your family’s health worth?

I take a look at the world around me and it doesn’t take a scientist to tell me that fresh beef from my own town is going to be better for me then something frozen for 6 months, then thawed, from Uruguay or Texas. I like the fact that when I walk into Hopcott’s, I can shake hands with the people that raised the cattle that is going on my table. I let my daughter eat beef jerky and pepperoni. Why? Because I know the people that make it, fresh every week. No additives. No preservatives… like when I was a kid growing up on the Prairies.

And so when people ask me how I can pay $10 or more for a single steak I just shake my head. When was the last time you bought a steak at a restaurant?? You know you aren’t getting any decent steak for $10 anywhere and if you go upscale? Try Las Vegas my friends – $60 and $80 steaks are the norm there. Now go back to Hopcott’s and ask them how much ribeye you get for $80 and start smiling!

But how do I, a chef with over 25 years’ experience, cook a steak like this? There are some basic rules that I, and most quality chefs, follow.

1. let the meat come to room temperature before grilling; this allows the muscle to relax and creates a more tender steak

2. ensure your grill is HOT; you want to sear the outside of the steak as quickly as possible to keep those lovely juices inside the steak and not on the bottom of your grill. 500C minimum for searing

3. cook your steak less than you think you need to, then let it rest longer than you think it needs; never forget residual heat in the steak will continue to cook it… I bring mine just to medium-rare, rest for 5 to 10 minutes, then serve and they are usually just a shade under medium

Now when I was prepping for this article I actually starting second guessing myself and so asked my friend, Mike Lindsay, who is Hopcott’s head butcher his thoughts on the subject. This is a guy who has a profound respect for beef; hard not to when you actually visit the animals as they’re growing up and look them in the eyes. This was the man I needed to show me a new trick or two when it comes to the barbeque. His thoughts on grilling great ribeyes??

“A little olive oil, some salt… maybe a pinch of pepper. Maybe.”

Bravo my friend – couldn’t have said it any better myself. Oh sure, you can fancy it up by finishing the steak with a little compound butter *(infused) such as roasted garlic, French thyme or my favorite Boursin infused butter… damn, it’s better than hollandaise! But  when you’ve got great components, try letting them speak for themselves.

This dinner we had to celebrate the sunshine had virtually no seasonings at all: the steak is just olive oil/salt/pepper, the beets are au naturel, the potatoes just a hint of butter, the carrots a light fireweed honey glaze and the salad is just lemon and olive oil. All of this is from Hopcott’s, because you know they have a fantastic produce selection now as well, and all from within 30 miles or so of my house.  Such concentration of flavors! All that was left for me was to choose the wine and I had a couple of beauties I’ld been saving for just such an occasion: a bottle each of Argentinian and Napa Cab-Sauv. They complement the steak in different ways and are both excellent values in any market.

Tomero Cabernet Sauvignon, 2012

by Bodega VistAlba (http://blendsinc.com/tomero)

90+ points, Excellent Value

*MERITS 1-HOUR DECANT FOR BEST RESULTS

… young, this CabSauv is a babe in the woods and will seriously benefit from another 2-3 years in the cellar. That being said, it was a treat that I knew was going to pair brilliantly with grilled ribeye steak. The thing to remember with Argentinian Cabs, personally, is that they are truly designed to go with food, and this is a perfect example. Ultra-ripe dark currant, black raspberry and dark floral aromas swirl through the glass *(think irises and dark roses). When you take your first sip, razor sharp full acid seems to bite at your lips creating a brilliant frame for full, finely-textured tannin and a symbiotic balance for the richness of slightly fatty grilled meat. This is a classic interpretation of what Bordeaux’s (arguably) greatest varietal can do in the South American land of cowboys, steaks and bold wine. Drink now, or hold for a decade plus, this wine can be enjoyed 2014-2025.

Louis M Martini Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010

www.LouisMartini.com

91 points, Excellent Value

… I never expected this; that I would one day be singing the praises of a mega-producer like Martini. But I must give credit where it’s due and these professionals have crafted an incredibly reasonably priced introduction into “What Is Napa”. From the opening bouquet of warm blackberry/currant compote, wild scrub-brush on the hillside, savory herbs and graphite minerality every aspect to the wine quietly declares its craftsmanship. Medium+ dark raspberry acids are far too well balanced for the good of the consumer who, when testing the wine to judge its quality, quickly finds that he or she has savored half the bottle before dinner is even cooked and guests have arrived. Ultra fine tannin feel chalky, full of dimension, and needing to be chewed a little – making the prospect of grilled meat seem a necessity rather then indulgence. Make no mistake about it, this is one of the great values in California Cab today… full of life, feel free to cellar some if you must though it seems a shame as it’s truly come into it’s own. Enjoy 2014-2019+

Maybe you’re close enough to Pitt Meadows to stop off at Hopcott’s and say hello. They’re mighty friendly folks and you’ll be glad you did. But if you aren’t then maybe you’ll take a moment and Google “local butchers”… these small businesspeople are in the business of providing the very best quality for you that is possible. Not the cheapest food, the best food. And really, aren’t you and your family worth that?

 Many thanks to Hopcott’s meats for the fine victuals, to Patagonia Imports ( www.PatagoniaImports.com ) for the Tomero and to my friend Peter Marshall at Gallo Imports ( http://gallo.com/wine/Canada/Canada.html ) for the fine bottle of Martini Cab.

As always, I look forward to your thoughts, comments and questions. Here, or:

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @ www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

Famille Perrin; Vinsobres and Rasteau

Many of you know of my recent attempt to achieve something few chefs ever do: the certificate of French Wine Scholar. I unfortunately failed this prestigious program by 1%, and so cannot add the post-nominal FWS... not yet!

And so here we find ourselves, you and I, on this my 200th article! I am not only writing for pleasure tonight, but gearing up (once again) for a renewed and vigerous attack on the FWS program in a few weeks. Wish me luck!

___________________________________________________________________________________

 

   Famille Perrin is known for a great many accomplishments over their span of 5 generations, but perhaps their greatest achievement would be the Chateau de Beaucastel ( http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2010/05/chateauneauf-du-pape-blend-unto-its-own.html ). I had only just started scribing about wine when first I met this cheeky little rascal, and instantly fell in love.

   Well lucky for me, and my bank account, the Famille Perrin (http://m.familleperrin.com/web ) produce significantly less expensive ventures as well, including a diverse portfolio that runs the length and breadth of the Southern Rhone. Tonight I've chosen two examples; Vinsobres and Rasteau.

   Vinsobres is an AOC situated surrounding the parish by the same name, and is one of the newest AOC in France... receiving it's status in 2006. Previously the region was known by most French more for it's olive trees then it's viticulture. But then, the Perrins have always been forward-thinkers. No, Vinsobres is a steep and rocky place where the Mistral brings it's forceful winds to tormet farmers year-round. Here we find a new breed of winemaker, exploring what Syrah and grenache can do in the most northerly area of the Southern Rhone.

the view in Rasteau

   Rasteau is an AOC with a much older history... the recognition of Rasteau comes at about the same time as it's more famous cousin: ChateauNeuf du Pape in 1934. But the little oddity is that, for the most part, Rasteau was known as much if not more for it's fortified wines as it was for it's still wines. In fact, it was only in 2009 that Rasteau could officially use it's AOC designation for still red wines. Previously they had to be labeled as "Cotes  du Rhone Village Rasteau" which, could be considered by some to be a remark of inferred inferiority. But this area has a very similar soil composition to it's more infamous cousin, and in fact culivates and utilizes all of the same varietals as ChateauNeuf as well. Yes, all 13 red varietals that go into the remarkable Beaucastel can be found right here. For about a quarter the price.

So why then spend $100 Canadian on a new vintage of Beaucastel (minimum) when one can purchase a Rasteau for about $25? Well my friends, just because I said that Rasteau is similar - that doesn't mean that it's the same. But for $25... the value is in the glass!

2009 Famille Perrin Les Cornuds, Vinsobres

$25 CAD    90 Points

*IMPORTER: CHARTON-HOBBS www.Charton-Hobbs.com *

60 Hectares, single vineyard
altitude 300 metres+

50% Syrah, 50% grenache

35% aging in French oak, the rest in foudres

• visual:   clean; fully intense purple/garnet core with the barest whisper of a cherry rim
• nose:   clean; this is a fully intense and youthful wine, shouting to the rafters about it's home! Layers of brambly blackberry, tangy black currants (cassis), a definite dark floral note and hints of spice behind the fruit
• palate:   clean; dry, fully intense (red currant) acids, medium+ chewy tannins, medium body, medium+ alcohol (14.5%), fully intense and youthful flavors that mimick well the nose... fruit is still the driving force in this young and vibrant vintage. Very good structure and balance, medium length
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   a cheeky young wine like this either needs a fat cut of beef to side up to, or else should go back into your winerack for a few years. We'll be savoring the next bottle with Syrah braised boneless Alberta beef shortribs on truffled parsnip and potato mash, steamed Swiss chard on the side

**Further reading for the French speaking audience http://www.vinsobres.fr/ **

 2009 Perrin et Fils, Rasteau-Cotes du Rhone Villages

$20+ CAD    89-90 points

south facing parcel

mostly Grenache (80%) with a slight amount of Syrah

• visual:   clear; deep and medium+ intense garnet core with slightest cherry rim
• nose:   clean; youthful and medium+ intense aromas of warm earth, raisins, red currants, slight savory herbs
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ red currant acids, medium grippy tannins, medium body, medium+ to full alcohol (13.5% seems hot), medium+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking the nose with emphasis on fresh young red berries and warm earth, background of savory herbs, dark floral and dark cocoa. Very good structure and balance, medium length
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   consider using this like a fresh Malbec from Argentina; this wine wants a fresh grilled premium steak, topped with a hint of Kosher sea salt and nothing else! These acids crave a little beef, but the medium tannins require a fairly sophisticated cut of meat
• conclusion:   much as the above wine, this vintage craves a few more years in a dark and cool corner to cultivate a deeper understanding of itself. Enjoy 2013-2017

    Both of these wines are splendid examples of Southern Rhone valley terroir; that otherworldly mixture of soil, wind, sun and man. Here are value-priced wines that can actually start to educate the consumer on what this part of the valley is capable of. That in and of itself makes the wines an excellent value in the "Under $30" market. But to add the depth and dimension of flavor, the true craftsmanship with which they are made, these wines should be a welcome addition to almost any cellar.

   Anyone can fill their shelves (and their glass) with 90-point wines. Not everyone can do so at prices like this.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Heartland wines by Ben Glaetzer

Have you ever gotten together with your friends and done something exciting? Driven to Las Vegas, kayaked to SaltSpring Island, gone windsurfing in Mexico, started a winery...

   Started a winery?!

   Well that's Ben Glaetzer's idea of fun and he managed to wrangle together a posse of like-minded vinophiles such as Geoff Hardy, Grant Tillbrook and Scott Collett. These men are all leaders in their industry in Australia and their names inspire confidence.

   Geoff Hardy is a fifth generation winemaker in South Australia and his children are even now being groomed to take a more pivotal role in his operations. Grant Tillbrook is a number-crunching wizard whose list of consulting jobs in Australian wineries is staggering... wine-making may be an art-form, but without the right numbers to support it, wineries are incredibly expensive propositions. That leaves Scott Collett whose family has been working with wine in the McLaren Vale for 50 years and show no signs of stopping.

   An inspired group of individuals, but I've often heard it said that "too many chefs spoil the soup". In this instance, nothing could be further from the truth, and it must be due in part to it's captain: Ben Glaetzer.

    Ben literally grew up in the wine industry; Ben's uncle John Glaetzer was the second employee at Wolf Blass Winery (see my article on Wolf Blass at http://astudentofwine.blogspot.com/2011/09/wolf-blass-gold-series-shiraz-viognier.html). Ben's father Colin is a renown winemaker who won the prestigious Winemaker of the Year award in Australia. Even Ben's two brothers are winemakers. One could say that genetics came into play when Ben's received the Quantas award for young winemaker of the year in 2004 and was called a "brilliant winemaker" by Robert Parker Jr.

   So what does the award-winning winemaker do? He gathers a team of like-minded individuals and creates the Heartland brand of wines from South Australia (http://www.heartlandwines.com.au/) which still focus on quality, but with value being a high priority and not afraid to take a few risks in the vineyard.

   Great pricing, great quality, and all from one of the most innovative winemakers in Australia today! What else do you want? Well I for one want to be able to drink the wine right away - as opposed to Ben's ultra-premium Amon-Ra which deserves ample cellaring. Done. All of these wines drink superbly right away and right from the bottle - I didn't even need to decant.

   So what's the magical key to making wines like this: is it only due to the efforts of the massively gifted confederates? Much as some might like to say "yes", the truth is that terroir plays into the equation just as much (if not more) then anything else.

vineyards in Langhorne

   Heartland wines are grown on two distinct properties; in the Langhorne Creek and on the Limestone Coast. The Langhorne Creek is about 70km, or an hour's drive, south-east of Adelaide in South Australia... it's a beautiful place that has been producing wine longer then almost anywhere in this country. Settlers came here in the early 1800's and by the 1850's a wine industry was already bustling. The area is known for the cooling effects that the local lake Alexandrina has on climate, and has been recognized as a "cool-climate" viticulture region.





a stickleback tree on the Limestone Coast

   The Limestone Coast is almost 300km south-east from Adelaide and shares more in common with it's famous neighbour to the east: Coonawarra. The Limestone Coast soil has a high amount of oxidized iron in it's soil, creating what is known a terra rosa or red-soil. The region is also known as having very dry (even by Australian standards) summers which leads to stress on the vines... this stress is good stress, not like when your boss tells you that he's fired someone else in your department and left all of their work for you. This stress leads to reduced yields from the vines which means that there will be a greater concentration of flavors.

   So Ben, Geoff, Grant and Scott decide that they want to use their powers of oenology for good in the world and create unique, well-crafted wines for a reasonable price. How to accomplish this? They source out regions which don't have aren't as well-known yet so they can afford to sell the yields for modest fees. The results speak for themselves.

2009 Heartland Stickleback Red

 $18   *** Very Good Value ***

Varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon 45%, Shiraz 38%, Dolcetto 9%, Lagrein 8%

Region:    Langhorne Creek 67%, Limestone Coast 33%

Vinification: fermented on skins for 5 days before pressing.

                      Malolactic fermentation in 2 and 3 year old oak barrels

Maturation: 12 months in 2 to 3 year old; French and American oak

• visual:   clear; fully intense plum/garnet core with slightest cherry rim
• nose:   clean; moderate+ to fully intense developing aromas of red and black currant, red and black raspberry, blueberries, slightly spicy earthy terroir
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (red raspberry) acids, moderate+ (soft chalky) tannins, moderate body, moderate+ alcohol (14.5% ABV), moderate+ intense youthful flavors that mimick well all the red and under ripe berry notes.... the Shiraz makes its presence known with the spicy finish and the Langrein helps with the fresh acids. Very good balance, and structure, medium+ to long length
• conclusion:   drinks well now but can cellar easily for until 2014. Will not develop appreciably
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   crisp red wines need a bit of fat; pair this wine with a Grilled ribeye steak with kosher seasalt and smoked paprika rub

2009 Heartland Shiraz

$25   **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

Varietal: 100% Shiraz

Region: Langhorne Creek 95%, Limestone Coast 5%

Soil: Langhorne Creek: Sandy Loam, Limestone Coast: Grey marl over deep limestone

Age of vines: 16-18 years

Vinification: crushed, then pumped over twice a day. Ten days skin contact. Extended maceration

Maturation:  14 months in new to 4 year old; 70% French, 30% American oak hogshead barrels

• visual:   clear; moderate+ bruised plum/garnet core with slightest cherry rim
• nose:   clean; moderate+ intense and developing aromas of red berries, spicy black licorice (no, really, that's what it smells like to me), dark espresso and chocolate notes
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (raspberry/currant) acids, moderate (soft, silky) tannins, moderate+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking well the nose with emphasis on red currant, red raspberry with the spicy finish known for Shiraz. Very good balance, excellent structure with long length
• conclusion:   drinking well now, this wine will certainly reward cellaring for the next several years. Drink 2014-2018
• FOOD PAIRINGS: a natural for lamb with it's lively acids, consider braised lamb shank with prosciutto-tomato and fresh sage reduction over parnsip and Yukon Gold potato mash

2009 Heartland Cabernet Sauvignon

$25    **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

Varietal:  100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Region: Langhorne Creek 73%, Limestone Coast 27%

Soil: Langhorne Creek: Sandy Loam, Limestone Coast: Grey marl over deep limestone

Age of vines: 12-15 years
Vinification: crushed into 10 tonne open fermenters, and left on skins to cold macerate for three days prior to yeast inoculation. The wine was pressed to oak for malolactic fermentation, then racked and returned to oak

Maturation:   12 months 2 to 4 year old; 80% French 20% American oak

• visual:   clear; fully intense garnet core with cherry rim
• nose:   clean; fully intense developing aromas of blackberry, warm winter spice, light tobacco and cigar box, light eucalyptus or menthol notes
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (red raspberry) acids, moderate+ to fully intense (soft, chalky) tannins, moderate+ body, moderate+ alcohol (14.5% ABV), moderate+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking the nose once again with emphasis on the red berry notes and a lingering earthy background... the terra rosa shows through. Excellent balance and structure, long length
• conclusion:   drinking well now, this wine also benefits from cellaring. Drink 2014 to 2018
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   rich red wine with a bit of zippy acids? Consider a Butter poached beef tenderloin with slightly spicy roast garlic compound butter

Heartland wineries on the map

   And so I'm left at the end of a truly wonderful tasting asking the exact same question I did at the beginning. Which is mightier in winemaking: the winemaker or the terroir? Obviously the answer is more complicated then just black or white.. it's neither one nor the other. The truest joy in winemaking comes for the consumer when winemaker and terroir are working in unison as evidenced by the above.

   My joy these days is measured by the LittlestStudentOfWine, who gave her smiles of approval when she smelled each and every one of these wines. My smiles were not far behind...

As always, I look forward to your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Durigutti Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina

Mendoza, Argentina is a desert... it's an extreme continental climate with earth-scorching hot summer days and winds that blow the dry soil to the four winds.

   In Lujan de Coyo DOC, an area within Mendoza, some would say that the most important aspect to their winemaking is not then the terroir, but rather the viticulturist. It is the decision on training, irrigation and canopy management... to the extent that I have hear winemakers talk about the difference in only a few degrees of aspect (the slope of the vineyard) as they calculate down to the minute just how much extra sunlight that few degrees will allow. These winemakers know their land, and they know how to make a rather harsh environment work for them. They know how to work with their land.

   Such is certainly the case with Hector Durigutti, who has spent more then 20 years in the industry, working his way around the world as a consultant. Now he and his brother Pablo have created a world class establishment in what some people would argue is some of the finest winemaking land in Mendoza: Familia Durigutti (www.durigutti.com )

   Hector and Pablo state in their website that their overriding philosophy is that of "young eonologists involved in the joy of incorporating modern variants to the elaboration of wine". I cannot pretend to fully understand what that means, but I can definitely pick out a few key words: joy. Anytime I hear a winemaker talk about their joy, I know that I'm probably in for a treat. I genuinely believe that anyone who works hard at what they do, and do it with real joy, will be successful.

    But don't take my word for it~! Success has already come for the Durigutti brothers as Hector was awarded the oenology award by the Association of Argentinian Sommeliers in June 2009. Wine Spectator (www.WineSpectator.com ) has listed several Durigutti vintages in their top 100 wines, including this 2008 Malbec as #74 and with 90 points. I unfortunately don't have this available in British Columbia, but in the USA this is running $15 USD per bottle and under - a Stunning Value.

2008 Durigutti Malbec

Agrelo, Lugan de Coyo DOC, Mendoza Province, Argentina

www.durigutti.com

$15 USD (most states),    **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

N/A in BC, available in limited quantities in Alberta

• visual:   clean; fully intense black-garnet core with slightest cherry rim
• nose:   clean; moderate+ to fully intense youthful aromas of red cherry, cherry blossom, red raspberry, light red currant, star anise (some will say asian spice) - almost licorice root, some light yet pungent dark florals like irises/dark rose
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ red cherry acids(slightly exuberant), moderate+ slightly chewy tannins, moderate+ alcohol, moderate+ (supple) body, moderate+ to fully intense youthful flavors mimicking the nose with emphasis on the cherry notes, fig compote and leathery end palate. Very good to excellent balance, excellent structure, medium+ length
• conclusion:   drinking well now - I would still cellar for best results. Drink 2012-2015/18. Very good concentration of flavors and rich tannins well integrated
• PAIRINGS:   great Malbec calls for great steak - a bit of acid in this wine so use steak with some fat or else finish with butter. The rich berry notes will play well off venison, as will the asian spice~!

Hector and Pablo Durigutti

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!    SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

D'Arenberg "The Footbolt" Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia



Chester d'Arenberg Osborn



Chester Osborn, winemaker and viticulturist at D'arenberg winery, says:

   "It is my aim to never make a wine that looks sterile...I want to see it all in my wines; I want a wine that has edges of all sorts of complexities such as spices, meats, compost and forest floors etc… "

   I'm used to hearing words like that from wineries that charge upwards of $30 to $50 and beyond - but recently I'm hearing more and more winemakers with modest prices saying the same thing. They seek to express their terroir with all of it's nuances, quirks and "flaws". I say "flaws" because some people look at compost and forest floors and think: "how could a consumer ever want to have that in their Shiraz?"

   How could I not want that, if that's exactly what your land is trying to impart on the wine?

   D'Arenberg winery (http://www.darenberg.com.au/ ) is in the McLaren Vale of South Australia. A robust 180 acres under vine, d'Arenberg has plantings aging back to 1912 in the case of their Shiraz. They have a versatile and complex portfolio including GSM blends, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sparkling wines, Fortified and so on... an impressive amount of work for one man to lead the entire winemaking and viticulture team. Chester seems to be doing it with his own inimitable style and winning awards and consumer loyalty as he goes.

d'Arenberg in Spring

   D'Arenberg wines are now sold in over 60 countries around the world - not bad for a mid-sized (by Australian standards) winery. The winery was recently (2010) awarded the Winery of the Year title from http://www.wine.com/ , one of the largest wine retailers in the world. If that wasn't enough, they also recognized the d'Arenberg Stumpjump Shiraz as being the Wine of the Year. At the McLaren  Vale wine show, the winery also won 3 (count 'em three) gold medals and the trophy for Best McLaren Vale pre-release wine. Then in Jim Halliday's Australian Wine Companion 2011, (http://www.winecompanion.com.au/ ) , the d'Arenberg Deadarm Shiraz earned 94 points - placing it as a permanent fixture in the Australian wine icon constellation.

2006 "The Footbolt" Shiraz, d'Arenberg winery

http://www.darenberg.com.au/

McLaren Vale, South Australia

14.5% ABV, $24 CAD   ** EXCELLENT VALUE **

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

soil :              primarily ironstone and chalky rock with a thin covering of clay loam

maturation :    20 months new and old American and French oak

• visual:   clean; fully intense plummy garnet core with slight cherry-brick rim
• nose:   clean; moderate+ intense developed nose of candied blackberry compote, worn leather, dried dark flowers, dried black cherries, soft and yet rich dark coffee nuances, finish of light cinnamon
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ red currant acids, moderate+ chalky tannins, moderate+ alcohol, moderate body, moderate+ intense and developed flavors mimicking the nose well... hints of very dark chocolate and black plums. Very good balance and structure, medium+ length on the palate
• conclusion:   drinks very well now to 2013 due to vibrant acids and good concentration of flavors
• PAIRINGS:   at the D'Arrys restaurant at the winery - they have a breaded lamb chop which I think would pair perfectly... use some savory herbs like wild thyme and rosemary and they will play delightfully off the dried fruit and coffee flavors in the wine

Joseph Rowe Osborn

   An impressive pedigree for a winery started by a man (Joseph Rowe Osborn) who abstained from drinking, and then his son Frank who sold his racehorses to start the d'Arenberg legacy. D'Arenberg was Frank's mother's maiden name, and he took the name for his winery to honor his mother, just as Frank's son D'Arry then named this wine "The Footbolt" for his father's most prized and successful racehorse. Now in it's fourth generation as a family business, Chester seems more then capable of giving respect to all the generations that came before him and yet still pushing off and driving the winery in his own direction.... a toast then:

   "to respecting where we came from, and daring to go where we dream"

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoran Estate Winery, Summerland, BC

Sonoran Estate Winery is named for the vast desert that stretches from southern California to the very northern tip of the Okanagan, of which Summerland could be considered part.

     I have had the good fortune to taste several of Sonoran's wines, and even visit the winery on two separate occasions. Life at Sonoran must be good, if one can judge such things from photos or from brief afternoon visits... and endless vista of rolling hills and warm lakeside, gentle breezes tickling one's nose with the perfume of grapes and orchardfruit heavy in the air and perhaps the merry sound of children playing nearby (or is that the winemaker having too much fun in the cellar?).

     Regardless of my "postcard" image of the serenity that must follow one's days in and around Summerland (*even the name inspires one to languish in a somewhat blissful stupor of barbeques and cold drinks by the pool), I know how hard the winemaker and all of his staff are indeed working. I know this because contrary to the images of joyous abandon, I've seen them hard at work.

     Summerland can reach day-time highs in the 30's and 40's Celsius in mid-summer, which translates to over 110F, which translates to damn hot. And yet, on they trudge and toil to bring us the fruit of an extra-ordinary terroir. Summerland's soil composition ( http://ginkgo.cisti.nrc.ca/RPAS/rpv?hm=HInit&journal=cjss&volume=79&afpf=S98-074.pdf ) is characterized by AgriCanada as Skaha Loamy Sand, which is a coarse soil overlaying a gravelly deposit... that is to say, it drains well and allows the vine roots to dig deep for water and nutrients. This in fact will develop flavors all on it's own, even without the meddling of the benevolent winemaker. A unique terroir that winemakers the world over look at with a tinge (or more) of jealousy...

     And this is what comes from that land:

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon "Jazz Series", Sonoran Estate Winery

Summerland, Okanagan, British Columbia, Canada

http://www.sonoranestate.com/

13.2% ABV, $24.95     ***EXCELLENT VALUE***

Fox's Reach Liquor Store, Maple Ridge

http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

• visual:   clean; deep plum-violet core with light cherry-brick rim (indicative of age)
• nose:   clean; fully intense youthful bouquet showing development; wild exotic black florals including black lily, black rose, irises, rich red and black fruit including cherry, raspberry, plum, heavy and yet balanced oaking, long savory spicy notes of nutmeg and allspice, sweet end notes bring back the floral with a slight vegetal tinge
• palate:   clean; dry, fully intense (red currant and cranberry) acids, moderate+ intense (slightly chewy) tannins, moderate+ ABV, moderate+ body, Excellent balance, structure and length
• conclusion:    For $25 I would be hard-pressed to think of a better expression of BC Cabernet Sauvignon. Sonoran Estate had produced an excellent wine which shows incredibly well now with 2 hours decanting... this wine should still age and develop slightly in bottle until 2014 or so
• PAIRINGS:   tonight Mrs. Astudentofwine and I enjoy this luscious wine with a prime rib roast beef, cook over a bed of savory herbs with steamed spaghetti squash and home-made onion rings.



beautiful people sampling beautiful wines at Sonoran

     It's a Sunday night, I've got my wife, a great dinner and I'm almost caught up on my studying. All is good in the world... reason enough to celebrate with a bottle from Sonoran Estate Winery!

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Chateauneuf du Pape, France

Oh what joy it is: a long summer evening, a reason to celebrate, and good friends to celebrate with. Last night was such a night.

 Mrs Astudentofwine & I went to the St Street Grill in Port Moody with friends and family for an impromptu birthday dinner. It was divine. True enough, perhaps we did wait a bit longer then usual for our orders to be taken, perhaps we did wait a bit for our drinks, but the service was warm and informed and the food was cooked with skill and attention to detail.

 Seeing as how it was a special occasion (more or less), I decided to splurge on a very nice bottle of wine. Both of the special women that evening have a penchant for Chateauneuf-du-Pape and so I made my way down to Marquis Wine Cellars (http://www.marquiswines.ca/ ) to see what they could do for me. I had been fortunate enough to have the 1999 Chateau de Beaucastel just a few months ago & wanted something in the same vein, if not the same price-point. This was what we savored last night:

2004 Domaine La Roquete, Chateauneuf-du-Pape

by Frederic & Daniel Brunier     (http://www.brunier.fr/ )

14.5%, $50 @ http://www.marquiswines.ca/ **EXCELLENT VALUE**

• soft brickish rim with a deep plum centre
• fully intense bouquet of garrigue (savory herbs, especially in this instance wild thyme), baie rouges  (little red berries especially in this case red currants and cherries), chalky terroir and old leathery oak barrels
• full acids, full tannins, fully intense flavors that completely mimicked the nose; the red currants were very sharp on the palate, the garrigue opened the palate and then returned for a very very long finish which was immensely pleasurable to savor. The end of the palate also came with a strong presence of old fashioned black licorice
• moderate body, full alcohol was still a touch hot on the nose (don't serve with spicy food), and an incredibly strong and developed structure

     What a delight to share with friends and family, especially as they all truly appreciated it so much, and especially for me as I came to sense that this wine still has not peaked. Lots of room left for this wine to grow and develop still into more: huge structure, long acids and tannins - brilliant balance... I look forward to more of this winery in the future.

PAIR WITH: traditional cassoulet, steak with a compound butter (the wine needs the fat still) such as a foie gras butter or truffle butter, consider also duck!

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2007 Domaine La Roquete

13.5% ABV, $47 CAD ( http://www.marquis-wines.com/ ) **Good Value**



label courtesy http://www.thewinedoctor.com/

tasted: 08 January 2011



visual:     clean; fully intense garnet core with slight cherry rim

• nose:      clean; moderate+ to fully intense; showing age and development; of leathery oak, red currants, black currants, blackberries, black and red raspberries, some baked earth notes and light floral-vanilla-lavender at the finish
• palate:    clean, 0 dryness, fully intense red currant acids, moderate+ tannins, moderate+ body, moderate++ alcohol *(it tastes hotter then the 13.5%), moderate+ intense flavors; showing signs of age and development; palate mimicks the nose well - with the addition of a significant white pepper finish from the 20% Syrah
• conclusion:   very good balance, excellent structure, very good length. This wine is really coming into its own right now - but buyer beware! Decant this a minimum of one-hour; I tried it after 20 or 30 minutes and found it far too tight to really enjoy and savor. Drink now to 2014
• pairs with:     bright red currant acids make me want to pair this with cream, cheese and/or poultry. I've considered a smoked chicken agnelotti with a mild sun-dried tomato & leek cream reduction

      So, in addition to the tasting notes, let me say a bit about AOC Chateauneuf du Pape.

     Chateauneuf du Pape is arguable one of the most popular and well known wine making regions in the world. There are multiple reasons for this; (1) when the Popes lived in Avignon (1308-1378), this was the region that produced wine for them and continued to do so for centuries (2) it became the role-model for the AOC system under the guidance of Baron Pierre Le Roy (1923) and thus came under scrutiny by wine drinkers the world over (3) there is a history of wine making here for 2000 years.

     The popes came into a region that had a reputation for mediocrity in its wine making. The popes gave it love, attention and massive amounts of hard work (by others). Because of this, the wines grew in depth and complexity - eventually being called "du Pape" under Pope John XXII. Obviously, with their immeasurable resources, the papacy would not have lent their name to something of mediocre quality.

      Then in the early 1900's there was a "wild west" feel to the wine industry... anyone could call a wine by any name and no one was around to tell them not to. People would mix beet juice with cheap wine from Algeria or Bulgaria and call it Chateauneuf du Pape. Well, the winemakers who had been in the area around Chateauneuf (in the Southern Rhone) for in some cases centuries - were understandably miffed. They almost literally begged Baron Pierre le Roy to help them systematically organize their region to enforce and regulate quality. After the passing of these regulations, people the world over knew they could count on consistent quality from the winemakers of Chateauneuf. Ask MacDonalds or Starbucks how important consistency is to business.

     And then there is the little matter of over two millennium of wine making in the region. Even if, at times, it was less then perfect wine making, it created a culture. In this region, people celebrate the vineyard; they design food around it, they build "siesta" into the afternoon so they can relax in it, they feel it in their bones because it is a part of their day-to-day life. Any culture that lives like this will naturally produce excellence over time.     

     Out of the three reasons listed above, none is more (or less) responsible for the quality produced within. True enough the prices are somewhat steep in comparison with for instance the Languedoc, but still reasonable compared to Burgundy. I digress. Chateauneuf reds are perfumed from the wild thyme and lavender that grow along the roads, baked by the long hot summers and sharp from the currant and raspberry flavored Grenache that abounds in the region. Explore. Enjoy.

 CIN CIN ~!!!    SLAINTE ~!!!   CHEERS ~!!!

Desert Hills, Black Sage Bench

Desert Hills Estate Winery ( http://www.deserthills.ca/ ) was kind enough to send me some of their recent award winning wines. Wow, what a treat! True enough, Canada (and BC) are producing some excellent wines these days... truly artisan craftsmanship all across the country. But - but these really were lovely wines.

Starting with the Viognier, I wasn't really sure what to expect. I don't have alot of experience with them, and what little I do have is most recently because of John Clerides @ Marquis Wine Cellar ( http://www.marquis-wines.com/ ) and his passion for Alban estates ( http://www.albanvineyards.com/ ). John Alban makes wines in the Rhone style, and I will have to take everyones word for that because I really can't remember the last time I had a Rhone Viognier... but I know I like John Alban's Viogniers. Rich stonefruit flavors and a bouquet of flowers, that is how I know this varietal. Desert Hills version is quite different:

2009 Viognier

*winner gold @ The All Canadian Wine Championship 2010

13.3%, $20 approximately *Very Good Value

• pale gold straw color
• moderately intense nose of waxy-petroleum, orchard fruit especially rich pear, hints of chamomile, austere terroir
• moderate+ acids, palate is a match for the nose, with intense flavors of lime & grapefruit showing throughout
• very long structure, good balance and light to medium body - this wine does best when served at cellar temperature or just below

Loved the wine; a completely new style of Viognier for me! Austere acids and light-medium body made me think this could be an instant Summer hit. Absolute perfect pairing with salmon, we ended up having it with braised chicken with fresh herbs & loved every drop.

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Next was the Pinot Gris that we've had before, and enjoyed every time. We had friends over for dinner last night, and one friend is a vegetarian... thus I made a roast acorn squash stuffed with wild rice pilaf mixed with BC chevre (goat's cheese). On the side was a compote of cranberry, orange and caramelized onions, and grilled asparagus with grilled field tomatoes tossed in olive oil and balsamic reduction. Ah - to savor fine food in the company of good people (or is that good food in fine company?)... we had a fire in the outside fireplace and loved the balance of wine & food.

2008 Pinot Gris

*award winner in 3 competitions 2010

14%, $20, *Very Good Value*

• moderate- intense nose of pineapple, citrus & candied fruit
• moderate++ acids, balanced by moderate intense palate of green apples, bright lemony citrus and a minerality reminiscent of Muscadet or Alvarino
• light to medium body, very long structure, very good balance - once again I would (and do) serve at or just below cellar temperature

This wine adores chevre! Anything goat cheese will be an instant success with this wine.

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2007 Small lots Cabernet-Merlot

*gold medal @ Tasters Guild International 2010

14%, $25, **EXCELLENT Value**

• deepest plum color, minimal brick rim
• fully intense bouquet of leather, gamey meat, blackberries, hot alcohol, dark chocolate
• moderate acids, moderate++ tannins, moderate+ intense flavors that match the nose: dark chocolate shows through especially well with a herbaceous finish
• moderate+ body, great structure and great balance

In My Humble Opinion, a brilliantly crafted Rhone-styled blend. It has everything you could want in a $40 for $25... need I say more? Try it with a free-range beef tenderloin or even grilled merguez sausage.

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2009 Gamay Noir

**Best of Class, gold, Los Angeles Wine & Spirit Competition 2010

14%, $20, **great value**

• moderate garnet centre
• moderate+ intense nose of heirloom tomatoes, old fashioned black licorice, leather & garrigue (savory herbs)
• moderate++ acids, moderate+ tannins, moderately intense flavors that mimic the nose. Emphasis is tomatoes in all their glory & savory herbs

Great wine, much improved by serving it as my friend and colleague Sebastian LeGoff does: slightly chilled, it tames the acids down a shade to allow the fruit to show through. And what wonderful acids - and what wonderful fruit... a pleasure to drink on it's own: try it as we did with a roasted pepper & roma tomato pasta, or sitting on the deck with a little charcuterie of sausages, cheeses & olives!