the simply sensational Summerhill sparkling blanc-de-noirs

http://www.summerhill.bc.ca/

Champagne: beverage of the ultra-elite, the glittering nectar that deities of real estate and rap music use to wash away their troubles. Most highly regarded region for the production of said effervescent treat.

For now.

Winemakers the world over are starting to challenge the “Goliath of Bubbly”: Spain has their dry Cava, Italy the floralMuscato and stonefruit Prosecco and, more recently, the New World has also joined the fray. Meet Eric von Krosigk,über winemaker atSummerhill Pyramid Winery. I’ve had the pleasure of knowing Eric for years and call him friend, having sat on panel-discussions with him as well as sharing meals and family time together. Knowing Eric has developed my appreciation for the intricate art that is winemaking and the arduous labor that is vineyard management.

Eric von Krosigk, winemaker

It is these two skills, along with a myriad of other tools that a winemaker gathers over years upon decades of dedication, which can result in true understanding of the land. And it is only through this fundamental empathy with their soil, their vines, that winemakers can ever hope to craft truly expressive wines; wines that speak emphatically and passionately about where they come from.

Or, so I’ve been told by those who know far more then I do.

And so when Ezra Cipes, CEO of Summerhill(http://www.summerhill.bc.ca/Story/Biographies/Ezra-Cipes) , sent me a few of the new releases from the winery, it was with no small amount of zeal that I started digging into the box. Like my 3-year old at Christmas: paper flew, cardboard tore, and the treasure that had been locked within was soon perched on the kitchen counter gleaming in the summer sunlight.

And, of course, it was the sparkling wine that first caught my eye… This is the sparkling producer that has my attention these days; their recent accomplishments nothing short of tremendous:

…“Sparkling Wine of the Year” 2014 All Canadian Wine Championships

…Gold Medal, Top 10 Sparkling Wines of competition - 2013 Effervescents du Monde

…Gold Medal – 2012 World Wine Awards, Chicago, Illinois

…“Best International Bottle Fermented Sparkling Wine” – IWSC, London, England, December 2009

Serious wine-making. And yet not so serious that these fine folks can’t crack a smile more often then not; their love for the land directing the course of business. This is the heartbeat of bio-dynamic viticulture in the Okanagan and, as such, the Cipes family treat their terroir like the living, breathing organism it truly is… fields are doted over, natural ecosystems restored, and bio-diversity has been recovered. To some people this is the most progressive style of farming or viticulture that we know of. Others, myself included, refer to this instead as ancestral farming for, coming from a lineage of Irish farmers, this is in fact what my grandparents taught me in their garden and through the stalls of our local Farmer’s Market many decades ago.

Call it what you want “the proof is in the pudding” and from the moment I opened this bottle of Blanc de Noirs I knew I was in for a treat:

2008 Summerhill Blanc de Noirs

100% organic Pinot Noir, hand-made

92 points, EXCELLENT VALUE

$35 approx.

**DO NOT SERVE TOO COLD! NOT UNDER 12C/55F FOR BEST RESULTS

… almond/Macadamia nut dusty mineral driven aromas make the mouth water and are followed quickly by notes of baked Golden Delicious apples, ripe Anjou pear and alluring cherry blossoms in springtime. The mousse is world-class; fine pearled bubbles carrying flavors that mimic the fruit of the bouquet brilliantly yet driving home that utterly Burgundian sense of precise minerality. Exemplary balance, this is a wine that shines with craftsmanship… truly a food wine, it will find it home as easily with the Boursin and fresh basil thin-crust pizza I made my girls for lunch as it did with the recipe that follows – but was an utter delight to savor on its own, needing nothing more then a great vista as company. Excellent structure and long length on the palate, this threat to French Greatness will age gracefully for years and, based on previous wines from this producer, with stunning results. Enjoy 2014-2020+

My daughter, age 2, with Ezra’s daughter at the winery. #Inspiration

This wine inspired me.

I followed in the footsteps of yesteryear, and went grocery shopping just for dinner that night: no massive Costco shop, no bulk section, no “buy 5 and get the 6th free”. I went looking for what was best right then, for dinner that night. Lucky for me, I have champions of  #Fresh #Local #Seasonal at my butcher http://www.hopcottmeats.ca/

Double-smoked Swiss Farmer’s sausage roast local chicken,

wild rice and quinoa pilaf, BC chèvre finished leeks,

fireweed honey and seasalt glazed carrots

THE CHICKEN

this may be the easiest chicken recipe, ever:

2 pieces double-smoked Swiss Farmer sausage, thinly sliced

1.5 lbs chicken thighs (bone-in always has more flavor) or about 6-7 pieces

1 Tbsp dry Italian herbs

1. saute the sausage in a pan on the stove; medium heat only as you want to draw out the fat or render

2. pat the chicken dry with paper towel, dust with dry herbs

3. saute on medium skin side down until the skin turns golden brown

4. turn over in the pan and place in the oven, 300F for 12 minutes+ or internal temp read 165F

THE LEEKS

rich creamy goodness, this is almost a condiment for the protein!

2 leeks, julienne (about 3 full cups)

2 cups milk

1/2 cup chevre (goat’s cheese; can sub Boursin as well)

1 Tbsp butter

*sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. wilt the leeks in the butter on medium or medium low heat; the key is to cook them gently and not brown them

2. when the leeks start to soften, add the milk and continue to cook on medium until the milk is almost evaporated (takes about 30-40 minutes)

3. add the goat’s cheese, stir to smoothness, season to taste

Simple food really, but rich concentrated flavors: the cheese balances the poultry, the clean carrot balances the richness of the smoked sausage and all the meal needed was the crisp, vibrant sparkling wine to pull everything into focus. This meal was a breeze as well, taking only about 10 minutes to prep and 45 minutes to cook: total time from start to finish was just under an hour.

Eating well, and drinking well, doesn’t have to be complicated but it does take effort. In this Golden Age of wine, when there are more choices then ever before, it’s difficult even for people who work in the wine industry to keep on top of it all. My suggestion, humbly, is not to choose wines at all:

Choose wineries you respect.

Choose winemakers you admire.

I don’t love everything that my local butcher does; sometimes I think they over-season the marinated chicken or make the Thai chili jerky too spicy… but I respect them and I know that by supporting them with my purchasing power I am enabling a company people I admire. And I’m doing something good because of how they work with the land, the environment, their community. And I love the food!

Why would choosing wine be any different?

Many thanks to Hopcott’s meats where I purchased the fresh sausage and locally sourced chicken (http://www.hopcottmeats.ca/) and to Ezra Cipes at Summerhill Pyramid Winery  (http://www.summerhill.bc.ca/) for the generous sample bottles.

As always you can find more recipes, free wine reviews and my notes

on premium distillates and cigars:

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @ www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

Cazadores Anejo tequila

What do I know about tequila? I'm northern Albertan born, from a family of Irish farmers which is about as far removed from the state of Jalisco, Mexico and the art of growing agave as can be imagined.

   Or is it???

   Agave growing really is an art; just ask the jimador who spend up to 12 years raising the plants to produce only the sweetest nectar. These men and women will put the sweat of their brows (literally) into their craft day in and day out... watching, waiting and tending their flocks with care. And the artisans in this region have been honing their craft not for years, or decades, but for centuries leaning on a millennium.

   Yes indeed, when the Spaniards came across in the 1500's they found the locals already celebrating a history of at least 300 years of distillation with the agave plant. "Yikes" thought the Spaniards, "how can we make any money off of that?" and so they promptly outlawed the practice. Well, the years went by and the Spaniards began to see their stocks of Spanish brandy dwindling and then the local fire-water looked pretty good! Much as you can imagine, Spaniards then allowed the local distilling (which never really stopped) and took a vested interest in it. This led to better technical work, and even to the process of aging the distillate (modest as it may have been).

   It makes sense then, that the Mexican government would stand behind their cultural history and put forward laws in conjunction with the Consejo Regulador de Tequila.  These laws have been enacted to protect the Appellation of Tequila; the very spirit of the drink and the manner in which it is perceived world-wide. Those of you reading this with a basic wine-knowledge will recognize that these artisans are following in the footsteps of craftspeople from all corners of the globe, whether they be cheese-makers in England or wineries in New Zealand. "There can be no tequila without agave!" said one of the early pioneers in the industry.

   And so we get to the part in the story about Cazadores  distillery. Well these guys know what they're on about, and that's for sure. Ok, maybe some would call them a little nuts when they play Mozart to the tequila as it ferments. Err... play music to the drink? Heck yea, and they're not even the first to do it! I've known winemakers who play symphonies to their wine as they mature (a nod to Emiliana in Chile http://www.emiliana.cl/ )

   Cazadores ( www.cazadores.com ) takes every step in production seriously whether it be the raising of the agave, the grinding of the plants to facilitate production of the spirit, or the maturation process. The company has decided upon American white oak for a sweeter style of matured tequila, and though the lightly charred barrels are good for 7 years or longer, Cazadores use them for only 4 to ensure a consistent level of flavor in each batch.

   So what is the end result of all this doting? Don't take my word for the finesse of this premium tequila at a seriously competitive price, the proof (as always) is in the glass my friends.

Cazadores tequila Anejo
$45.99, 92+ Points
www.BCLiquorStores.com

spirit:   100% blue agave  tequila
region:   highlands of Los Altos in Jalisco, Mexico
distillation type:   stainless steel pot still
distillation times:  twice distilled
maturation type:   small American white oak barrels
ABV:   40%

• visual:   immediate appeal and easy to see the American oak at play, this has light amber-pale straw coloring
• nose:   light caramel and vanilla tones, soft floral aromas... reminiscent of Caribbean styled rum (due in part to the maturation process)
• palate:   medium+ concentration of flavors very similar to the nose with more emphasis on ripe stonefruit and exotics (kumquat/pineapple), some florals and a strong carry-through of that vanilla tone. Alcohol is present but approachable, structure is good but the persistence is mediocre (the only short-fall)... 
• conclusion:   a great way to get introduced to upper-tier tequila, this has structure, balance and finesse and the only thing limiting it from being a 95+ point spirit is the lack of persistence on the palate. Excellent value for $45!

    And so an end to my first tasting notes on tequila... it's funny how we can all end up with prejudices and writers are certainly no exception! A few years ago I never would have thought that I would be putting great tequilas into the same category as fine cognac or extra-aged rums but I was wrong. The premium and ultra-premium tequilas that I have tasted recently are smooth, supple, full of deep, rich and nuanced flavors. They are every bit as "sophisticated" as their counterparts from any part of the globe. France included.

As always, I look forward to your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Macon-Chanes "Serreudieres", Dominique Cornin, Burgundy

Ray Isle, the managing editor of Wine and Spirits magazine ( http://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com/ ), once said, "So what if they (biodynamic winemakers) also think burying cow horns full of manure will help them channel new life forces from the cosmos?"



Cornin winery, winter



   Do I think he was saying that because biodynamic practices add nothing to the product, or because whether one chooses to believe in the mystical aspects of this winemaking or not - the proof is in the bottle? A touchy subject, one that is being debated fairly heatedly in most areas of the winemaking world.

   With approximately 475 wineries worldwide being certified biodynamic by the Demeter Association ( http://www.demeter.net/ ) Dominique Cornin and his son Romain have achieved something unique at their winery in the Macon-Villages appellation of Bourgogne (Burgundy). They are one of a very small, very powerful movement in the wine industry.

Dominique Cornin

     Dominque learnt winemaking from his father, who learned it from his father, all working the same land. Dominique will tell you that his grandfather passed away when his father was only 16 years old, and he believes that it is because they were the first generation to work the land using chemicals. Chemicals, to both Dominique and Romain, are not only dangerous - they are un-necessary.

   The proof is in the bottle. The Cornin winery ( http://www.cornin.net/ ) only produces 12,000 bottles per year of the Macon-Chanes "serreudieres", and it manages to find it's way into markets as far away as Alberta, Canada. It has been written up be Decanter magazine, Le Point, and La Revue du Vin du France and continues to receive attention wherever it is sold.



Cornin winery, spring



   But is the attention due to biodynamics? The Cornin winery only received it's certification as an organic winery in 2009, although they follow most of the biodynamic practices. Does following the lunar cycle for harvesting really influence flavor concentrations? At the end of the day, I believe that what influences flavor more then anything else is the vignerons dedication to allowing the land speak in it's own voice. Dominique and Romain have that dedication and refuse to allow anything (even lunar cycles) get in between that expression of self and the bottle. Time will truly tell us if it was the Cornin's hardwork, or their belief system, that truly brought such elegance and finesse to our tables.

2008 Macon-Chanes "serreudieres", Cornin winery

Chaintre village, appellation Macon-Villages controlee, Burgundy, France

http://www.cornin.net/

13% ABV, $20 USD   $25 CAD   ** EXCELLENT VALUE **

soil:         limestone, some clay

varietal:   100% Chardonnay

vines:       planted 1990, 1998

maturation:   concrete tanks, no oak

• visual:   clean; pale amber gold core with watery rim
• nose:    clean; moderate+ intense and developing aromas of stonefruit, honeysuckle, calcareous minerality, ripened gala apples, light almondy finish
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (lemon zest) acids, moderate alcohol, light+ body, moderately intense and developing flavors; mimicking the nose well with that pronounced minerality that runs through the palate from start to finish. Excellent balance and structure, medium length on the palate
• conclusion:   drinking incredibly well now through 2012/13. Great concentration of flavors and the acids are quite lively
• PAIRINGS:   poulet au quarante gousse d'ail - a whole roast of chicken with 40 cloves of garlic! It may seem like overkill, but trust me that this Macon has enough where-withal to stand up to the buttery, roasted power of garlic. Not into garlic? chevre risotto with smoked duck - a little cheese to play off the acids, a little smoke to enhance the non-oaked Chardonnay

   Let me conclude with Dominique's own words:

     Our wines are like siblings. They all share Chardonnay origins- they are similar, yet each has its own personality. Our wines are like you, like me- sometimes reserved or shy, sometimes flirtatious, high-spirited or laughing. They evolve and mature but never lie. They are authentic, in short, alive. Over vintages and time, they unveil their multiple facets. Love them simply for who they are and they will give back tenfold.

Bravo says I. As always, I look welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Desert Hills Unoaked Chardonnay

Hot, hot, hot.

Finally Summer is here with a vengeance and the temperature has gone from 12C to 30C in 2 days. Feels good.

But what to serve Mrs Astudentofwine in such heat for dinner? Why a little sweet Thai chili marinated pork loin, stir-fry vegetables with ginger & cilantro, and a fine bottle of Desert Hills Unoaked Chardonnay.

I must admit that Chardonnay hasn't always been my favorite varietal, but recently I seem to be growing into it. Producers like http://www.deserthills.ca/ are certainly part of that influence with their round flavors, well balanced acids, and versatile pairing with a host of Summer foods.

2008 Unoaked Chardonnay

**bronze medal - Grand Harvest International**

14%, $17 **very good value**

• pale gold straw color
• moderate+ intense nose of chrysanthemums, orchard fruit, lilies, honey, dandelions
• moderate++ crisp, slightly biting acids, moderate intense flavors same as the nose, with more emphasis on the orchard fruit and very distant floral flavors - finish is lime zest (from the terroir I believe)
• an invigorating wine that opens the palate and loves Summer food: grilled pork with mushrooms, chicken scallopini with lemon chevre sauce, poached prawns with a sambal orange dipping sauce... the list goes on and on

Sainte Roseline, Provence

I love this time of year! Summer is the season to grill meats, sit under the sun, and have long talks over cold drinks. That is, unless you live in Vancouver. Today's daytime high? 12C. Wow - I've seen warmer in January, seriously.

So instead of the usual summer fair, we ended up with a roaring fire in the fireplace, and red wine as we watched an old movie. Molasses barbequed chicken, garlicky potatoes & basil-balsamic marinated grilled asparagus & portobello mushrooms. I would like to say that I cooked like this because it was a special occassion - but then - every night with my wife is a special occassion...

Celebrate yours.

2006 Roseline "Prestige" rouge (Syrah, Cabernat Sauvignon, Carignan)

by Chateau Sainte-Roseline, 13.5%, $15 **excellent value**

http://www.sainte-roseline.com/

• fully intense nose, with leathery oak, cigar box & pencil shavings, gamey bloody notes throughout
• moderate++ acids balanced by full tannins, flavors match the nose, with the oak showing through quite strongly
• pair this with food! Strong acids and tannins make me crave a little fat with this wine... at first I wanted to pair it with grilled meats, but more and more I came to the notion of the perfect marriage: a grilled bacon, tomato & aged cheddar sandwich. Great wine with a very good structure for the money, long developed palate and decent balance. But really, decant for an hour & serve with food or it can be a bit much.

BC Uncorked! Stag's Hollow

An "undiscovered" winery in the Okanagan Falls area, Stag's Hollow (www.stagshollowwinery.com ) is - as is the case with so much in this industry - a labor of passion. These people are dedicated to following their passion and letting the varietal and the terroir showcase with minimal interference. This winery focuses on letting the vines produce the best quality they can, rather than any amount of quantity that may satisfy fiscal targets. Quality over Quantity? These are people I understand! I only had the pleasure of tasting one of their wines, but look forward to more in the near future.

2008 Viognier $25 *very good value

• for all the world, smelling like New Zealand Viognier, which to me means cat-pee. I know this sounds disgusting, but really, that's how I've had it explained to me in tastings and class, and it really is what it smells like
• the palate is where this wine shines! crisp and lean moderate+ acids are balanced with lemony-peachy-apricot flavors and a distinctively excellent structure. Long long presence on the palate to be savored

Ok. I may have insulted some people by saying this wine smells like cat-pee. My apologies for that, but I will not recant. This is a great wine, in the style of Viognier that the winemaker wanted! It's not one of those vaguely Gewurztraminer or Muscat Viogniers... it is what is it. Grill some chicken (skin on for god's sake) and finish it with a summer stone fruit glaze or compote - serve it with this wine - live life to the fullest!