Vinha do Monte, Vinho Regional Alentejano, Portugal

The cartoon to the left is simply titled "Suicide Alentejano (style)"... any winemaker or farmer will instantly see the humor.

     I am not a farmer, but am really only one generation removed, and whilst I can see the humor - I can also see the poignancy. What a struggle for that man, I think, and what passion. For what else, really, could motivate someone to work so diligently for what appears to be a "more then trying" situation? What else other then passion?

     I don't think I've ever heard anyone claim the Portuguese lacked for passion. Common sense? That may or may not be a different matter, which is also inferred from the cartoon. But then, what winemaker ever really followed sense above passion? What farmer? Common sense tells us that slaving all year to one's land is a risky endeavour at best; pests, natural disasters, drought, flood... so many things to get between the farmer and his crop. The farmer may even do everything right, in the right year, with the right weather - and it doesn't work the way he wanted it to. Just because.

     Common sense would tell me not to invest so much of myself in that endeavour.

     But farming, in any of its forms, really is about passion I believe, and that belief is re-affirmed every time I hear a winemaker speak of why he/she is in this craft: "To know that someone, somewhere, is sharing a bottle of my wine with friends or family, and smiling". Of course, I'm using my own words, but the meaning is there.

     Vinha do Monte, Vinho regional Alentejano comes from one of the largest areas of Portugal... it encompasses about 1/3 of the country though less then 8% of the population, and dwindling. It is a rural place, and having been born on the edge of rural - I understand why people  have left: people leave to find jobs. The sad part then, is many of the jobs that are there never get filled when the one person who does it for the town or county retires. And then a skill becomes forgotten. Cork production is an incredibly vital part of Alentejo's economy, and cork is harvested manually.

     Yes, by hand, and that will most likely never change. Did you know that one cork tree can produce enough bark in a harvest to create over 4000 corks? Pretty cool stuff. That was before I found out that they actually still make the axes for harvest in Alentejo as well. Makes sense-  who would know better what they need?

      The region spreads from the hills bordering Spain to the NorthEast down to the ocean... it is a vast sprawl of rolling hills with little rainfall. Summer reaches daytime highs of 40C or higher, and winters are generally mild. All in all, a wonderful place to grow crops of any kind, and wine drinkers the world over are taking notice.

2008 Vinha do Monte

Vinho Regional Alentejano, by Herdade do Peso

(a Vinho Regional is Portugal's version of the Country Wine classification)

12.5% ABV, $14   **Very Good Value**

traditional Alentejo white vine varieties -Roupeiro, Antão Vaz and Arinto

http://www.sograpevinhos.eu/

• visual:     clean; pale yellow straw core with slight watery rim
• nose:     clean; moderate+ intense youthful aromas of exotic fruit (pineapple, candied banana, ripe melon), wild grasses, gravelly/flinty minerality
• palate:     clean; dry, moderate+to full (lemon and lime) acids, moderate body, moderate+ alcohol, moderately intense youthful flavors of flinty minerality, wild grasses, lemon and lime zest, slight exotic fruit undertones. Moderately well balanced, moderate structure and a quick finish.
• conclusion:   This is a very refreshing wine, made as they say, to whet one's whistle. As an appero or a drink before the meal I think this would excel with its bright and lively acidity. Drink it now, as it will not improve with age and I don't imagine it has much more life. Enjoy 2011-2012.
• PAIRINGS:   An excellent match for white fish and light cream sauces, Spanish ham crisps topped with goats cheese, also steamed green vegetables!

Sogrape Vinhos (the parent company) has just been distinguished by the well-known American magazine, Wine Enthusiast, with the trophy for “European Producer of the Year”. Congratulations! I look forward to sampling more of your portfolio if this is the quality one can expect for under $15!

CIN-CIN~!!!   SLAINTE~!!!   CHEERS~!!!

Riesling, Crowsnest Vineyards, BC

Winemaking is rarely a solitary affair. Indeed, it is the rare exception when a winemaker claims sole credit (or responsibility) for the creation of a wine. Winemaking, in it's essence, is about family.

     This is certainly true in the winemaking at Crowsnest Vineyards (also known as Barcello Canyon) in the Similkameen Valley (designated viticulture area), British Columbia. This vineyard was planted in 1995, in an area long known for it's quality fruit and vegetables since the 1920's. The Heinecke family bought said vineyard 3 years later in 1998 and have been growing it ever since.

     Originally from Germany, the Heinecke family certainly bring a strong German style to their winemaking with such cuvee as the Stahltank Chardonnay (Steeltank) which is a brilliant wine. The winery also boasts a year-round restaurant, little inn (auberge for the French audience) and even a bakery that has gluten-free products available!

     Ann Heinecke is the winemaker, trained at the Weinsberg Weins Schule and emigrated with her family to Canada in 1994. Ann's philosophy towards her wine, in her own words, is "To showcase the immense fruit and acidity balance that this valley has to offer... using only Similkameen valley fruit is out priority."

2007 Crowsnest family reserve Riesling

BC VQA, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada

14% ABV, $20 CAD     **Decent Value**

http://www.crowsnestvineyards.com/

• visual:     clean; pale lemony gold core with slightest watery rim
• nose:     clean; moderately intense youthful aromas of lemon zest and lemon grass, pale meadow flowers, gravelly terroir, butter notes
• palate:     clean, off-dry, moderate+ (lemon and crabapple) acids, moderate+ to full body, moderate+ intense and youthful flavors of lemon grass, apricots, crabapples, light vanilla, gravelly terroir and minerality strong backbone, sweet-sour lemon and floral finish. Very good balance, good structure, moderate length.
• conclusion:   This wine is drinking well now, and unfortunately, I don't believe it will develop at all or last more then a few more years. Please understand that I find this to be a competent wine in all respects, however for $20, in a global market, this is only decent value. I have, and will continue to, drunk this as it is something unique in it's flavor and aromas. For that reason alone, it is more then worth purchasing at least once. I compare this to a slightly sweet Kabinett Riesling, or an Auslese Riesling.
• PAIRINGS:   This could certainly pair with mild white fishes, light cream sauces, etc... but when I started thinking a little German, it all made sense! Braised cabbage, speck or German bacon, some bratwurst and spicy mustard - this wine would sing!



the Heinecke family in their dining room

So some interesting things coming from the Similkameen Valley these days, and I for one couldn't be any happier. Two years ago, it seemed that no one really knew what or where it was, or believed that any decent wines were coming from there.

Believe!

CIN-CIN~!!!   SLAINTE~!!!   CHEERS~!!!

Vinha do Alqueve, Vinho Regional Ribatejano, Portugal

Well, I've always said that I'm just a "student-of-wine" and so then it is to be expected that I have a great many questions.



Pinhal da Torre, Portugal

     Today I am studying the wines of Portugal, and not the fortified type. Not that I don't love a great fortified wine (as many know I do), but because there is so much more to the wine-story of Portugal now and I want to learn!

     Touriga Nacional must be the first grape I learned about from Portugal: a grape that people have compared to Cabernet Sauvignon in that it has depth, tannin and structure, but usually needs something else to sort of "fill-out" the flavor profile. I've seen it married with Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and many others (Portuguese varietals of course). Here is where the question comes in...

     The wine in question today is the Vinha do Alqueve from Pinhal da Torre in the region of Ribetejano, Portugal ( http://www.pinhaldatoree.com/ ). This winery does all sorts of things to maximise quality; they hand-pick their grapes, pick their grapes early in the morning before the heat has a chance to diminish the quality of the picked fruit, etc. Why then, do you imagine, they would leave the stems on the grapes whilst in primary fermentation? To increase tannins I would naturally answer, but then, why do that for a grape that is already high in tannins? Unless that's just because that is how they enjoy that wine in that region. Could be.

     In any case, I was at my local BCLDB (BC Liquor Store) and inquired about Portuguese wines and this was what I got steered onto.

2006 Vinha do Alqueve, Pinhal da Torre

Ribatejano, Portugal

13% ABV, $10.99    **EXCELLENT VALUE**

varietals: Trincadeira, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon, Touriga Franca

http://www.pinhaldatorre.com/

• visual:     clean; deep garnet core with slight cherry rim
• nose:     clean; moderate+ intense and developed aromas; leathery oak, deep bruised plums, slightly jammy blackberries, mineral terroir, white pepper spice, cherry blossoms throughout
• palate:     clean; dry, moderate++ (red currant) acids, moderate+ (soft, slightly grippy) tannins, moderate body, moderate+ ABV, moderately intense and developed flavors mimicking the nose; French oak comes out first, followed by red currants, red and black raspberries, slightly jammy blackberries, backbone of meatiness. Moderate body, moderate+ to fully developed structure, full length on the palate (for the price)
• conclusion:   This wine completely over-delivers. For $11 in BC I get a wine and I just hope its balanced - nothing else. This wine has length, balance, structure, nuances... if I was charged $20 I would still say that it was a Very Good Value. However, drink now - this wine doesn't have long left in it.
• PAIRINGS:   Strong acids mean it can be paired with some fattier foods like cheese, richer sausages, pate... strong tannins mean fuller flavored cuts of meat. I would pair this with cured meats and cheese, fresh bread. The alcohol is in check so feel free to use a bit of spice as well, and the spice will enhance many notes in the wine

     Great wines being produced on the other side of the world for $11... simply marvellous! It makes me more then a little curious to taste their $40 wines. Colleagues tell me that the value-for-money never changes, and that Portugal is really out-doing itself these days... reshaping how we view their wine making skills.

CIN-CIN~!!!   SLAINTE~!!!   CHEERS~!!!

Vina Albali, Gran Reserva, Valdepenas DO, Spain

First of all, many thanks to Tom Cannavan ( http://www.wine-pages.com/features/solis.htm ) for his detailed research on Vina Albali and its owner, Felix Solis ( http://www.felixsolis.com/ ).

     This would not be the first time I've written about a winery owner wanted to pursue the finest quality possible in the vineyard. It may in fact be the first time I've written about someone trying to do that with a production of 180 million litres of wine per vintage... not to be dull, but I know wineries that produce 2000 cases a year and worry about quality control, and Vina Albali can produce 120,000 bottles per hour (about 10,000 cases). Quality control? One of the most important parts of being a winemaker.

     Of course, one can easily make the argument that everything is an important part of being a winemaker; it's much like someone once said "many things are half the battle... losing is half the battle! We're interested in what is all the battle."

     And what is the battle in Valdepenas? High on the plain of La Macha (from which comes the name for the mighty wind that blows from there), moisture is low and rot and coloure are flights of the imagination from other places. Even the lack of moisture hardly seems to be a problem as people have been growing grapes here for centuries without end, and only about 30% of the winecrop is grown with the use of irrigation.

     So what then could be the challenge? Extreme continental climate would be the answer: cold as a witch's teat in the winter and up to 40C in the summer (100F+ I believe). Extremes like this are tough on any living thing, and the grapevine is no exception. Temperanillo is grown here, but in a clone known locally as Cencibel. It is this clones hardiness that makes it possible to grow grapes; grapes that will survive an average of 2 days of rainfall in July when sunlight hits 12 hours per day but also endure January with 1C average low, 6 days of rain (only) and 5 hours of sunshine per day.

     But the vineyards of Felix Solis are growing more then just Temperanillo (no matter what clonal name one gives). There is Merlot, Cab Sauv, Syrah, even Gewurztraminer and many many more. Felix Solis is dedicated to researching just what really is possible on this high plateau. As I said earlier, I've met many winemakers who talk about the pursuit of excellence, but never before one who was willing to do the work on so large a scale.

     Bravo Felix Solis.

2002 Vina Albali, Gran Reserva, Valdepenas DO, Spain

13% ABV, $23 CAD   **Excellent Value**

Temperanillo (Cencibel) based blend

http://www.felixsolis.com/

Viña Albali Gran Reserva 2002

- Challenge International du Vin 2010. Bronze Medal.

- The best Spanish Wines in Asia 2009. Silver medal

- USA Wine Enthusiast- October 2009- 83 points. “Suitable for everyday consumption. Often Good value”

- International Wine Challenge 2009. Bronze medal.

- International Wine and Spirit Competitions 2009. Silver Medal (Best in Class).

- Premium select wine “Challenge Wein in Prowein 2009”. Silver Medal.

- AWC VIENNA 2009. Silver medal.

• visual:     clean with slight sediment; deep garnet core with obvious cherry rim
• nose:     clean; fully intense developed aromas; red and black berries (currants, raspberries prevail), caramel-vanilla of American oak, baked earth (sometimes noticed as terracotta), modest wild flowers, distinct spicy edge
• palate:   clean, dry, moderate+ to fully intense (raspberry) acids, moderate+ (soft, chalky) tannins, moderate body, moderate+ ABV, moderate+ to fully intense developed flavors of baked earth, dark berries, vanilla - American oaking, some savory herbs and once again a spiciness of pink peppercorns and mild peppers. Very well balanced, fully developed structure (for the price) and full length on the palate.
• conclusions:   drink this now, as this wine has peaked. It will last a few years longer, but will shortly start to lose all the things that make it a wonder for the price
• PAIRINGS:   big rich flavors! Anything your heart could desire really; from grilled beef to a classic bourguignon or Stroganoff... even a Calabrese styled stewed tuna or Portuguese stewed octopus (in tomato) would be lovely... wild red meat will play well off the mixed berry notes and fatty food will balance the acids

     Quality is possible on any level, if people are willing to do the work. I have seen chefs mess up a soup for 2 people, and have seen flawless execution of a 7-course meal for 1100. Do they require different skill-sets? Of course, but the one thing they share in common is that in both instances there must be a complete and total adherence to flawless quality. Because really, what would be the point if one didn't?

CIN-CIN~!!!   SLAINTE~!!!   CHEERS~!!!

Glorioso Crianza, Rioja DOCa, Spain

How does one begin to speak of Rioja, Spain? Does one begin at the beginning, with wine production conservatively estimated at 2000 years old? Does one begin with the first recorded wine production in the 8th century? Or the earliest recognition that these wines were unique in 1102? Where does one begin?

     In 1894, the Bodegas Palacio was built in Rioja Alavesa, Spain. It was the hub for a newly formed winery that surrounded it on 170 acres; a winery that was formed around the concept that all wines needed to express their own "signature" or personality. It is a concept embraced by quality craftsmen the world over.



Bodegas Palacio (today)



     Now, the winery is no longer owned by the original family, but seems to be guided by the original dedication to quality over quantity. Rioja has gone through much change in the relatively short period of recent time.... since the 1980's, the entire world of wine has changed and Rioja has changed right alongside it. Outdated fermentation and maturation methods have been discarded, or rather - invigorated with new technology.

     Of course, one hopes that the new technology will never blind people to age-old techniques that have worked for centuries and always will work in the right hands.One hopes, that the vision of Don Cosme Palacio y Bermejillo (the founder of the Glorioso line in 1928) will continue to hold firm: to allow wines to express their signature or personality.

2006 Glorioso Crianza, Rioja DOCa, Spain

13% ABV, $17 CAD **Very Good Value**

100% Temeranillo grape

12 months in French oak

http://www.bodegaspalacio.com/

• visual:     clean; dark garnet core with light cherry rim
• nose:     clean; moderate+ intense aromas showing development; dark and red berries especially black cherry, blackberry, old leather, baked earth, slight jammy roasted strawberry, light florals
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+to full- (cranberry) acids, moderate (slightly chewy) tannins, moderate- ABV, moderate- to light body, moderate- intense developed flavors of baked earth, leathery French oak, baked or dried black berries, slightly peppery finish. Strong balance, moderate+ structure and moderate in length
• conclusion:   For $18 it's hard to do better in the BC market... well balanced acids and relatively soft tannins - it can certainly be enjoyed on its own. Some rich flavors and aromas mean it can be paired with food as well. Drink now though as it has peaked
• PAIRINGS:   Strong enough acids and light enough flavors mean this is a beautiful wine for duck! Duck carpaccio, duck roulade stuffed with arugula, duck confit on fresh bread... instead of duck? Pasta with chevre and Parma ham (and fresh peas)

     Good wine is everywhere, if one knows where to look. Thank you for letting me look for you, and hopefully find a few deals out there. This isn't the best wine I've ever had, or even the best under $20, but I am impressed with it.... because as the Burghound would say "It is the duty of all wine to express terroir". This wine, I believe, accomplishes that and is a nice way to become acquainted with Rioja.

Nero D'Avola, the black juice of Sicily

Literally, Nero D'Avola means "the black of (the town of) Avola". We are supposed to infer that one is speaking of the black juice, or wine, although it could be equally possible to be talking about the color Sicilians turn in the summer. That's not meant as a racist remark, but more of a slightly jealous observation on my extended family.

     I come from an Irish family, and can get a sunburn sitting in my living-room. My wife on the other hand, can get a suntan taking out the garbage. Am I jealous? Ok - perhaps a little.  http://www.maplandia.com/italy/sicilia/siracusa/marina-d-avola/

     Sicily is the little island (little by Canadian  standards) just to the west of Calabria in southern Italy. Indeed, it is almost impossible to be any further south and still be in Italy.

     The Sicilians do consider themselves a different breed of Italian; dramatically different dialect, different cuisine... one gets the idea. And so, no less different do they consider their wine! The most well recognized of these is arguably the Nero D'Avola.

      Nero D'Avola was once a fantastically alcohol-driven wine, rivaling the mighty Zinfandel of California. Yes, back in the 1980's and earlier, one would see Nero with ABV of 17% or even 18%, the same as a light Porto or Madiera. These days, I am hard-pressed to find any stock in BC that has a higher ABV then 14.5%, which is strong, but no stronger then many Cab-Sauvs, Syrahs, and many other wines.

     Originally, as Nero D'Avola was native to Sicily, it was the primary varietal used. Now in the global marketplace that is the wine industry, Cabernet Sauvignon has become an important part of many Nero blends. There are other grapes as well that are grown in Sicily, but Cab-Sauv seems to be the most popular. I wanted to try 100% Nero to try and get a sense of the terroir.

2008 Cusumano Nero D'Avola, Sicilia, Italy

14.5% ABV, $20 CAD  **Decent Value**

100% Nero D'Avola grapes

http://www.cusumano.it/

• visual:     clean; fully intense black-purple core with slightest cherry rim
• nose:     clean; moderate- intense youthful aromas of blackberries, dark florals, cherries, cassis jam
• palate:     clean; dry, moderate (raspberry/red currant) acids, moderate+ slightly chewy tannins, full bodied, full ABV, moderate+ intense youthful flavors mimicking the nose with lots of red and black berries, slight jamminess, strong oak presence, end notes of baked earth. Well balanced, moderate structure and moderate length (the wine gets mono dimensional quickly)
• conclusion:   Even as this was my first Nero, I quickly concluded that it was either a marginal example of what the grape can be, or I just wasn't going to like Nero. After speaking with some colleagues, I'm going with the former. It's a decent wine if you want to sit and have an unassuming glass of wine... there is some action in the glass, but not so much that it would distract anyone from conversation
• PAIRINGS:     Tough to pair this, because there isn't alot there. Use cuts of beef that are low in fat and subtle in flavor such a tenderloin. Also consider a bolognese with a touch of ground lamb in it!

       And so, after this somewhat lacklustre performance, I was encouraged to re-visit the BCLDB (BC Liquor Store) and seek a greater vintage... something that really spoke about Nero D'Avola and Sicilia.

2008 Sedara Nero D'Avola, Sicilia, Italy

by DonnaFugata

13% ABV, $22 CAD **Decent Value**

http://www.donnafugata.it/

Winemakers Notes

With the new vintage Sedara continues its evolution from mono-varietal to a wine expressing and synthesizing the territory. To Nero d'Avola ( a grape that still prevails in the blend,with a bit more than 50%) are added some of international grapes (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah) grown on the winery's Estates .Additions that give the wine pleasant complexity and intensity.Refinement for 9 months in cement vats

• visual:     clean; deep garnet core with light cherry rim
• nose:     clean; moderate+ intense youthful aromas of red berries (cherries, raspberries, red currants), saskatoons, garrigue savory herbs, slight peppery spiciness, hot alcohol finish
• palate:    clean; dry, moderate+to full (red currant) acids, moderate+ to full (chewy and a bit gritty) tannins, moderate body, moderate+ ABV, moderately intense youthful flavors of red berries, wood notes, tart pomegranate finish. Moderately well balance, moderate structure, short to moderate finish
• conclusion:    Although it is an interesting wine, it isn't an especially well-crafted wine. It has more layers (and thus perhaps shows more of Sicily) then the Cusumano, but the layers themselves are perhaps not as well made. Drink now, will not improve with age.
• PAIRINGS:   Drink this with big flavors! Wild meat would work especially well... braised venision osso bucco (which in Northern Canada is poor man's food)



Favanghina, Sicily



     So I learned a little about Sicilian Nero D'Avola today. It is capable of being a soft and well rounded wine, easy drinking and respectable - or it's more then capable of coming across like a red-head (fiery and tempestuous). I look forward to learning more, though I spend more time now that I'm almost 40 in quiet contemplation and much less time with red-heads!

 CIN-CIN~!!!   SLAINTE~!!!   CHEERS~!!!

Falanghina, ancient white wine from Campania, Italy

Some of you may know that Mrs Astudentofwine is of Italian descent. Her father was the first to be born here in Canada, of Calabrese parents, and so she was raised  surrounded by Italian speaking aunts, uncles and grandparents. Very cool for me then to be learning about wines from just up the coast from where her family lived for generations.

     Campania is actually a Latin word, and literally means "the Countryside". There may in fact be somewhat of a stigma against winemaking (not without justification) from "the Countryside" but - just as with most regions of the world - here as well great strides in quality are being made. And what better place to start then this magnificent anicent grape Falanghina, native to Campania, and capable of rich aromatic white wines that pair as well with seafood as they do with a crisp pizza topped with buffalo mozzarella? Both pairings, by-the-way, are in fact regional. Did you know that the pizza (as we know it now) was first made in Napoli, capital city of Campania?

     Well anyways, Falanghina has 15 pseudonyms (which I will not bore you with) which makes it a horror for any student to try to learn about. It also has a plethora of rich possibilities in the bottle, which makes it an absolute pleasure to drink. Did I mention that it's also reasonably priced?

2009 Falanghina, by Terredora

Campania, Italy (Indicazione Geografica Tipica)

13% ABV, $20   **EXCELLENT VALUE **

http://www.terredora.com/

2008: Decanter Awards 2009 – silver

         The International Wine Challenge 2009 - bronze

2007: Decanter Awards 2008 – bronze

         The International Wine Challenge 2008 – bronze

         Vinitaly 2008, Concorso Enologico Internazionale – commended

2006: Decanter World Wine Awards 2007 – bronze

         The International Wine Challenge 2007 – commended

• visual:     clean; moderately intense golden lemon core paling to watery rim
• nose:     clean; moderately intense young and vibrant aromas of minerality, wild grasses, mild exotic fruit such as pineapple, almondy lees
• palate:    clean; 0 dryness, moderate+ Amalfi lemony acids, moderate- body, moderate+ ABV, moderate+ intense youthful and somewhat layered flavors comparable to the nose; Amalfi lemons, wild flowers, strong minerality throughout the palate, lemon finish with a hint of peppery arugula. Very good balance, good structure and moderate+ finish
• conclusion:   A wonderfully crafted "table" wine that is drinking superbly now (through 2012)
• PAIRINGS:   Seafood (as they do in Campania). Scallops in a buerre blanc are a natural, as would be butter poached lobster, fresh pan seared trout.... just about anything that is white from the ocean will love this. Herbs would be dill, tarragon, basil (but be sparing and try Thai basil). I personally would stay away from spice as it may throw the wine out of balance

     If anything, this small taste of Campania and the Amalfi Coast has made me more eager then before to take some time to visit Italy. Until then, I'll just have to try different varietals from the region, and from Terredora wines.

CIN CIN~!!!   SLAINTE~!!!   CHEERS~!!!