Anciano Tempranillo, Valdepenas, Spain

http://www.ancianowine.com/

courtesy Spaincentre.org

Valdepenas, Spain; known to locals as the Val-de-penas or "The Valley of Rocks". The imagery isn't particularly hospitable. But then, this region has never been gentle... to people or to vines.

Surrounded by the better known, and much larger, region of Castilla-la-Mancha which was made famous by Don Quixote amongst others, I can almost imagine the Don... riding through these sun-baked valleys on his quest. Being a learned man, he would have known that this region had roots. These people had history; with some castles dating back to the 6th, 7th, 8th century BC. Yes, a castle, someone's home at one point - and it's 3000 years old (or thereabouts).

But these castles housed more then just people. For people in this region drink wine; always have and always will. They drink wine with lunch, with dinner, before dinner, after dinner, before bed and perhaps for a midnight snack. Not to say that they're drunks! But different cultures have different habits and to some people, the thought of lunch without wine is just silly. Just silly.

Archaeological sites have revealed wine production here, also dating back to a thousand years before Jesus was born. A drop in the bucket (or barrel, pardon-the-pun) when one compares it to wine-making in the areas surrounding the Black Sea (which have been dated to seven thousand years ago and older). However, when I look at wine-making in the New World - in BC let's say, and one hundred years ago there were only the roughest sort of vines, the barest-type of production, and three hundred years ago Europeans were being sighted for the first time ever sailing their galleons up the coast. Well, then 3000 years of viticulture takes on a degree of intensity!

And today in Valdepenas, the fierce sun blazes on soil, vine and man as it has for millennia. And the people struggle under the sun, working the limestone-rich subsoil, and harvesting Tempranillo. This varietal has plantings not only throughout Spain, but Portugal as well and is responsible for adding depth and dimension to some of the greatest red wines of the region. Even the New World is getting in on the action with wineries in California, South America and even one or two in BC taking a chance.

farm in Valdepenas

These two wines from Bodegas Navalon are absolutely entry-level priced examples of what Tempranillo is capable of, and yet deliver something more then entry-level quality. Remembering that BC has the second-highest liquor tax in the world (thank-you Sweden for being more expensive), these two wines come in at $12.99 and $15.99 respectively. In the UK you can pick them up at just about any major grocery store/wine outlet for about £8.99 or even less. For me, when I purchase a wine in that price-range, I'm just hoping that it's balanced and not much else. But in Spain, because these wines state that they are Gran Reserva, then they must be aged a minimum of 5 years: 2 in cask, 3 in bottle.

This is the difference. This is what pushes the quality of these wines from average to lovely, from "nice" to "Oh my!". Discover for yourself why sommeliers the world over are enjoying Spanish wines more then ever before...

Anciano Gran Reserva 2005

aged 7 years

88 points

*NO NEED TO DECANT/AERATE

• visual:   clear;   deep garnet core to slight cherry rim/some signs of age/oxidization
• nose:   clean; medium+ intense and developing aromas that show both the brightness and freshness of youth through cherry blossoms and fresh red berries (raspberries/strawberries/blueberries) but also the more developed nuances of worn leather, drying dark berries... complimented by a generous array of graphite tones and wild savory herbs
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ cranberry acid, medium+ chalky tannin, medium- body, medium alcohol (13% ABV), medium intense flavors that do a solid job of keeping up with the aromas; the wine shows more age on the palate then the nose as the flavors are more of the dried blueberry/Saskatoon nature, layered with that graphite edge and rounded out with the scrub-brush/herbs. Good balance and structure, short length
• conclusion:   whilst it will last for a few more years, this wine is at it's peak and should be enjoyed now. It should be noted that for those not used to "funky" Old World aromas, a quick run through the aerator or a 15 minute decant (just leave the bottle open) will do much to dispel what may be not-to-everyone's-liking
• FOOD PAIRING:   "when in Rome..." and so I paired this cheerful red with grilled chorizo and caramelized sweet onions, capsicum bell peppers and fresh basil; grainy Dijon dipping sauce. The wine loved the bit of fat, hint of spice, and bold fresh garden flavors!

Anciano Gran Reserva 2002

aged 10 years

89+ points

*PREVIOUS VINTAGES SCORED 90 POINTS BY ROBERT PARKER

*NO NEED TO DECANT/AERATE

• visual:   clear; full garnet core to slight cherry rim/only light signs of aging
• nose:   clean; medium+ developing aromas of cherry blossoms and dark rose, warm cherry compote, fresh thyme from the garden, graphite edges and a slight peppery finish
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ tart raspberry acid, medium chewy/meaty tannin, medium- body, medium alcohol (13% ABV), medium+ intense and developing flavors that mimic well the aromas; generous darker fruit tones give way to a well-placed minerality that cleanses the palate. The end is dark roses drying in my kitchen where I hang the Summer herbs. Good balance and very good structure with medium- length
• conclusion:   also at it's peak, this wine will last for several years but is best consumed within the next 18-24 months
• FOOD PAIRING:   a lighter though robust wine, this needed nothing other then the fireplace, a Sunday evening, and a good movie :) ... if I had paired food, it would have been something like grilled lamb burger with peppercorn-cherry relish, smoked garlic aioli for the frites
  

IMPORTER IN CANADA: www.DiamondEstates.ca 

 As always, I welcome your comments and questions - here, or on Twitter @AStudentofWine

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Vina Albali, Gran Reserva, Valdepenas DO, Spain

First of all, many thanks to Tom Cannavan ( http://www.wine-pages.com/features/solis.htm ) for his detailed research on Vina Albali and its owner, Felix Solis ( http://www.felixsolis.com/ ).

     This would not be the first time I've written about a winery owner wanted to pursue the finest quality possible in the vineyard. It may in fact be the first time I've written about someone trying to do that with a production of 180 million litres of wine per vintage... not to be dull, but I know wineries that produce 2000 cases a year and worry about quality control, and Vina Albali can produce 120,000 bottles per hour (about 10,000 cases). Quality control? One of the most important parts of being a winemaker.

     Of course, one can easily make the argument that everything is an important part of being a winemaker; it's much like someone once said "many things are half the battle... losing is half the battle! We're interested in what is all the battle."

     And what is the battle in Valdepenas? High on the plain of La Macha (from which comes the name for the mighty wind that blows from there), moisture is low and rot and coloure are flights of the imagination from other places. Even the lack of moisture hardly seems to be a problem as people have been growing grapes here for centuries without end, and only about 30% of the winecrop is grown with the use of irrigation.

     So what then could be the challenge? Extreme continental climate would be the answer: cold as a witch's teat in the winter and up to 40C in the summer (100F+ I believe). Extremes like this are tough on any living thing, and the grapevine is no exception. Temperanillo is grown here, but in a clone known locally as Cencibel. It is this clones hardiness that makes it possible to grow grapes; grapes that will survive an average of 2 days of rainfall in July when sunlight hits 12 hours per day but also endure January with 1C average low, 6 days of rain (only) and 5 hours of sunshine per day.

     But the vineyards of Felix Solis are growing more then just Temperanillo (no matter what clonal name one gives). There is Merlot, Cab Sauv, Syrah, even Gewurztraminer and many many more. Felix Solis is dedicated to researching just what really is possible on this high plateau. As I said earlier, I've met many winemakers who talk about the pursuit of excellence, but never before one who was willing to do the work on so large a scale.

     Bravo Felix Solis.

2002 Vina Albali, Gran Reserva, Valdepenas DO, Spain

13% ABV, $23 CAD   **Excellent Value**

Temperanillo (Cencibel) based blend

http://www.felixsolis.com/

Viña Albali Gran Reserva 2002

- Challenge International du Vin 2010. Bronze Medal.

- The best Spanish Wines in Asia 2009. Silver medal

- USA Wine Enthusiast- October 2009- 83 points. “Suitable for everyday consumption. Often Good value”

- International Wine Challenge 2009. Bronze medal.

- International Wine and Spirit Competitions 2009. Silver Medal (Best in Class).

- Premium select wine “Challenge Wein in Prowein 2009”. Silver Medal.

- AWC VIENNA 2009. Silver medal.

• visual:     clean with slight sediment; deep garnet core with obvious cherry rim
• nose:     clean; fully intense developed aromas; red and black berries (currants, raspberries prevail), caramel-vanilla of American oak, baked earth (sometimes noticed as terracotta), modest wild flowers, distinct spicy edge
• palate:   clean, dry, moderate+ to fully intense (raspberry) acids, moderate+ (soft, chalky) tannins, moderate body, moderate+ ABV, moderate+ to fully intense developed flavors of baked earth, dark berries, vanilla - American oaking, some savory herbs and once again a spiciness of pink peppercorns and mild peppers. Very well balanced, fully developed structure (for the price) and full length on the palate.
• conclusions:   drink this now, as this wine has peaked. It will last a few years longer, but will shortly start to lose all the things that make it a wonder for the price
• PAIRINGS:   big rich flavors! Anything your heart could desire really; from grilled beef to a classic bourguignon or Stroganoff... even a Calabrese styled stewed tuna or Portuguese stewed octopus (in tomato) would be lovely... wild red meat will play well off the mixed berry notes and fatty food will balance the acids

     Quality is possible on any level, if people are willing to do the work. I have seen chefs mess up a soup for 2 people, and have seen flawless execution of a 7-course meal for 1100. Do they require different skill-sets? Of course, but the one thing they share in common is that in both instances there must be a complete and total adherence to flawless quality. Because really, what would be the point if one didn't?

CIN-CIN~!!!   SLAINTE~!!!   CHEERS~!!!