Vinha do Alqueve, Vinho Regional Ribatejano, Portugal

Well, I've always said that I'm just a "student-of-wine" and so then it is to be expected that I have a great many questions.



Pinhal da Torre, Portugal

     Today I am studying the wines of Portugal, and not the fortified type. Not that I don't love a great fortified wine (as many know I do), but because there is so much more to the wine-story of Portugal now and I want to learn!

     Touriga Nacional must be the first grape I learned about from Portugal: a grape that people have compared to Cabernet Sauvignon in that it has depth, tannin and structure, but usually needs something else to sort of "fill-out" the flavor profile. I've seen it married with Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and many others (Portuguese varietals of course). Here is where the question comes in...

     The wine in question today is the Vinha do Alqueve from Pinhal da Torre in the region of Ribetejano, Portugal ( http://www.pinhaldatoree.com/ ). This winery does all sorts of things to maximise quality; they hand-pick their grapes, pick their grapes early in the morning before the heat has a chance to diminish the quality of the picked fruit, etc. Why then, do you imagine, they would leave the stems on the grapes whilst in primary fermentation? To increase tannins I would naturally answer, but then, why do that for a grape that is already high in tannins? Unless that's just because that is how they enjoy that wine in that region. Could be.

     In any case, I was at my local BCLDB (BC Liquor Store) and inquired about Portuguese wines and this was what I got steered onto.

2006 Vinha do Alqueve, Pinhal da Torre

Ribatejano, Portugal

13% ABV, $10.99    **EXCELLENT VALUE**

varietals: Trincadeira, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon, Touriga Franca

http://www.pinhaldatorre.com/

• visual:     clean; deep garnet core with slight cherry rim
• nose:     clean; moderate+ intense and developed aromas; leathery oak, deep bruised plums, slightly jammy blackberries, mineral terroir, white pepper spice, cherry blossoms throughout
• palate:     clean; dry, moderate++ (red currant) acids, moderate+ (soft, slightly grippy) tannins, moderate body, moderate+ ABV, moderately intense and developed flavors mimicking the nose; French oak comes out first, followed by red currants, red and black raspberries, slightly jammy blackberries, backbone of meatiness. Moderate body, moderate+ to fully developed structure, full length on the palate (for the price)
• conclusion:   This wine completely over-delivers. For $11 in BC I get a wine and I just hope its balanced - nothing else. This wine has length, balance, structure, nuances... if I was charged $20 I would still say that it was a Very Good Value. However, drink now - this wine doesn't have long left in it.
• PAIRINGS:   Strong acids mean it can be paired with some fattier foods like cheese, richer sausages, pate... strong tannins mean fuller flavored cuts of meat. I would pair this with cured meats and cheese, fresh bread. The alcohol is in check so feel free to use a bit of spice as well, and the spice will enhance many notes in the wine

     Great wines being produced on the other side of the world for $11... simply marvellous! It makes me more then a little curious to taste their $40 wines. Colleagues tell me that the value-for-money never changes, and that Portugal is really out-doing itself these days... reshaping how we view their wine making skills.

CIN-CIN~!!!   SLAINTE~!!!   CHEERS~!!!

Desert Hills, Black Sage Bench

Desert Hills Estate Winery ( http://www.deserthills.ca/ ) was kind enough to send me some of their recent award winning wines. Wow, what a treat! True enough, Canada (and BC) are producing some excellent wines these days... truly artisan craftsmanship all across the country. But - but these really were lovely wines.

Starting with the Viognier, I wasn't really sure what to expect. I don't have alot of experience with them, and what little I do have is most recently because of John Clerides @ Marquis Wine Cellar ( http://www.marquis-wines.com/ ) and his passion for Alban estates ( http://www.albanvineyards.com/ ). John Alban makes wines in the Rhone style, and I will have to take everyones word for that because I really can't remember the last time I had a Rhone Viognier... but I know I like John Alban's Viogniers. Rich stonefruit flavors and a bouquet of flowers, that is how I know this varietal. Desert Hills version is quite different:

2009 Viognier

*winner gold @ The All Canadian Wine Championship 2010

13.3%, $20 approximately *Very Good Value

• pale gold straw color
• moderately intense nose of waxy-petroleum, orchard fruit especially rich pear, hints of chamomile, austere terroir
• moderate+ acids, palate is a match for the nose, with intense flavors of lime & grapefruit showing throughout
• very long structure, good balance and light to medium body - this wine does best when served at cellar temperature or just below

Loved the wine; a completely new style of Viognier for me! Austere acids and light-medium body made me think this could be an instant Summer hit. Absolute perfect pairing with salmon, we ended up having it with braised chicken with fresh herbs & loved every drop.

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Next was the Pinot Gris that we've had before, and enjoyed every time. We had friends over for dinner last night, and one friend is a vegetarian... thus I made a roast acorn squash stuffed with wild rice pilaf mixed with BC chevre (goat's cheese). On the side was a compote of cranberry, orange and caramelized onions, and grilled asparagus with grilled field tomatoes tossed in olive oil and balsamic reduction. Ah - to savor fine food in the company of good people (or is that good food in fine company?)... we had a fire in the outside fireplace and loved the balance of wine & food.

2008 Pinot Gris

*award winner in 3 competitions 2010

14%, $20, *Very Good Value*

• moderate- intense nose of pineapple, citrus & candied fruit
• moderate++ acids, balanced by moderate intense palate of green apples, bright lemony citrus and a minerality reminiscent of Muscadet or Alvarino
• light to medium body, very long structure, very good balance - once again I would (and do) serve at or just below cellar temperature

This wine adores chevre! Anything goat cheese will be an instant success with this wine.

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2007 Small lots Cabernet-Merlot

*gold medal @ Tasters Guild International 2010

14%, $25, **EXCELLENT Value**

• deepest plum color, minimal brick rim
• fully intense bouquet of leather, gamey meat, blackberries, hot alcohol, dark chocolate
• moderate acids, moderate++ tannins, moderate+ intense flavors that match the nose: dark chocolate shows through especially well with a herbaceous finish
• moderate+ body, great structure and great balance

In My Humble Opinion, a brilliantly crafted Rhone-styled blend. It has everything you could want in a $40 for $25... need I say more? Try it with a free-range beef tenderloin or even grilled merguez sausage.

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2009 Gamay Noir

**Best of Class, gold, Los Angeles Wine & Spirit Competition 2010

14%, $20, **great value**

• moderate garnet centre
• moderate+ intense nose of heirloom tomatoes, old fashioned black licorice, leather & garrigue (savory herbs)
• moderate++ acids, moderate+ tannins, moderately intense flavors that mimic the nose. Emphasis is tomatoes in all their glory & savory herbs

Great wine, much improved by serving it as my friend and colleague Sebastian LeGoff does: slightly chilled, it tames the acids down a shade to allow the fruit to show through. And what wonderful acids - and what wonderful fruit... a pleasure to drink on it's own: try it as we did with a roasted pepper & roma tomato pasta, or sitting on the deck with a little charcuterie of sausages, cheeses & olives!