Dandelion vineyards "Lionheart of the Barossa" Shiraz

Last January I happened to be in Edmonton, Alberta to celebrate a family function; there was food, there were long talks and, of course, there was wine. For all that my family may be Irish, we drink wine as if we were Italian.

   So it was a real treat when my father took me for a drive because he said he knew a "very special" wine-shop. I told him that the shop in question would have alot to stand up against as I have virtually grown-up (as a wine-steward) in the semi-mystical http://www.marquis-wines.ca/ which is a pantheon of oenology in Vancouver, BC. I was not disappointed.

   The store in question had certified sommeliers on-hand to lead me through a list of wines I had rarely seen... for those of you not in Canada we here are in the Dark Ages: we have different liquor boards for each province and shipping between provinces prohibitive. And so the wines my father sees are rarely the ones I see and the two of us almost never see wines that make it to Ontario or Quebec. But I digress.

   One of the sommeliers pointed out the Dandelion vineyards (http://www.dandelionvineyards.com.au/) and stated that categorically it was one of the finest Shiraz he had in stock. At almost $40 CAD it was worth about $60-$70 in my own province and I was - reluctant. In the end, I trusted my father and bought the bottle. A 2008 "Lionheart of the Barossa"... something worth cellaring for years upon years I imagined.

   A few days ago I was becoming despondent with lacklustre syrahs and saw the old Lionheart on a shelf and thought: "Stelvin enclosure; it must be made to drink young. Meh, how bad could it be?"

   I've managed to lose my aerator somewhere, and because of the Stelvin enclosure (screwtop) I decided against decanting. I opened the bottle, poured out a few ounces and lifted to my nose. That was when the magic began for me.

Dandelion Vineyards, Lionheart of the Barossa Shiraz

$35 CAD in Alberta, not available in BC

95 points James Halliday

94-95 points AStudentOfWine

vine age:   old vines, many over 100 years

altitude:   725 feet (220 metres)

fermentation:   25% new French oak

maturation:   18 months, then racking without fining or filtration

winemaker:   Elena Brooks, Bsc

• visual:    clear; fully intense inky-purple core with slightest cherry rim
• nose:   clean; moderate+intense and developing bouquet of red currants, black raspberries, developing secondary notes of old worn leather and cedar, dried savory herbs and light earthen background
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ to fully intense (red currant/sour cherry acids), moderate+ (silky yet grippy) tannins, moderate body, moderate ABV (14.5%), moderate+ to fully intense youthful flavors of sour cherries, young raspberries, small strawberries and blueberries, light notes of savory herbs/light summer florals, soft background of warm earth. Stunning balance and structure, long length
• conclusion:   a rarity; a wine that drinks so brilliantly whilst young and yet could cellar well for half a dozen years with ease. Peaks 2017-2020
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   because of the vibrant acids of course I'm going to suggest a little fat, but not as much as I normally would... the acids are so delicately integrated that I'm going with grilled rack of lamb with caramelized onion and blueberry compote on Manitoba wild rice latkes with steamed Swiss chard.

  This was an experience for me.

Barossa vines, 100++ years

   This wine drinks with the vibrancy of a Melbourne Shiraz, the lively acidity of McLaren Vale, the freshness of the Langhorne and the warm suppleness of Barossa. It is quite simply one of the finest examples of Shiraz that I've ever had and would love to sample it at 6 or 9 years old, when I imagine it will have grown into the mature grace of a Rosemount Balmoral (which is the finest kind of compliment).

   For all of my credible research skills, Dandelions vineyards in still an enigma to me. Established in 2009, Dandelion Vineyards Pty Ltd is a private company categorized under Crop Planting and Protection and located in Port Willunga, SA, Australia. That's what the records state, but the first vintage of The Lionheart is 2008...

winemaker Elena

 No matter, it seems as though a Canadian businessman/vigneron and an Australian patriarch/vigneron sought the fresh ideas of a young Adelaide graduate and created Dandelion. They only source from family estates, and the quality is self-explanatory. Not convinced?

   James Halliday may know more about Australian wines then anyone else on the planet. Period. I thought this was at least a 92-point wine after 10 seconds in my glass. Without an aerator. James Halliday agreed and gave 95 points.

   I give this, at 4 years old, 94 points and feel it can easily grow into 95 or even 96 points. It's smooth, sophisticated and layered beyond belief for the price. If you're in Alberta or Ontario, spend the money and discover new winemaking with Old-World sensibility.

As always, I welcome your questions and comments.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Durigutti Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina

Mendoza, Argentina is a desert... it's an extreme continental climate with earth-scorching hot summer days and winds that blow the dry soil to the four winds.

   In Lujan de Coyo DOC, an area within Mendoza, some would say that the most important aspect to their winemaking is not then the terroir, but rather the viticulturist. It is the decision on training, irrigation and canopy management... to the extent that I have hear winemakers talk about the difference in only a few degrees of aspect (the slope of the vineyard) as they calculate down to the minute just how much extra sunlight that few degrees will allow. These winemakers know their land, and they know how to make a rather harsh environment work for them. They know how to work with their land.

   Such is certainly the case with Hector Durigutti, who has spent more then 20 years in the industry, working his way around the world as a consultant. Now he and his brother Pablo have created a world class establishment in what some people would argue is some of the finest winemaking land in Mendoza: Familia Durigutti (www.durigutti.com )

   Hector and Pablo state in their website that their overriding philosophy is that of "young eonologists involved in the joy of incorporating modern variants to the elaboration of wine". I cannot pretend to fully understand what that means, but I can definitely pick out a few key words: joy. Anytime I hear a winemaker talk about their joy, I know that I'm probably in for a treat. I genuinely believe that anyone who works hard at what they do, and do it with real joy, will be successful.

    But don't take my word for it~! Success has already come for the Durigutti brothers as Hector was awarded the oenology award by the Association of Argentinian Sommeliers in June 2009. Wine Spectator (www.WineSpectator.com ) has listed several Durigutti vintages in their top 100 wines, including this 2008 Malbec as #74 and with 90 points. I unfortunately don't have this available in British Columbia, but in the USA this is running $15 USD per bottle and under - a Stunning Value.

2008 Durigutti Malbec

Agrelo, Lugan de Coyo DOC, Mendoza Province, Argentina

www.durigutti.com

$15 USD (most states),    **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

N/A in BC, available in limited quantities in Alberta

• visual:   clean; fully intense black-garnet core with slightest cherry rim
• nose:   clean; moderate+ to fully intense youthful aromas of red cherry, cherry blossom, red raspberry, light red currant, star anise (some will say asian spice) - almost licorice root, some light yet pungent dark florals like irises/dark rose
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ red cherry acids(slightly exuberant), moderate+ slightly chewy tannins, moderate+ alcohol, moderate+ (supple) body, moderate+ to fully intense youthful flavors mimicking the nose with emphasis on the cherry notes, fig compote and leathery end palate. Very good to excellent balance, excellent structure, medium+ length
• conclusion:   drinking well now - I would still cellar for best results. Drink 2012-2015/18. Very good concentration of flavors and rich tannins well integrated
• PAIRINGS:   great Malbec calls for great steak - a bit of acid in this wine so use steak with some fat or else finish with butter. The rich berry notes will play well off venison, as will the asian spice~!

Hector and Pablo Durigutti

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!    SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

The Errazuriz (wines) Strike Back!

I've preached about the wonders of Errazuriz before; honestly one of - if not the best value Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc I've ever bought was from them, and it was only $14 CAN. So my younger brother and his long-time sweetheart came into town for dinner with Mrs Astudentofwine and I, and imagine my surprise when we walked into our local BCLCB specialty store & saw an entire shelf of Errazuriz wines! http://www.errazuriz.com/

First on our plate (literally) was the Sauvignon Blanc with boursin cheese, rice crackers (for me the celiac) and a vegetarian antipasto.

2009 Sauvignon Blanc, 13.5%, 91 Points by Wine & Spirits Magazine
$14 CAN **excellent value**

• vibrant lemony gold color, moderate++ intense bouquet of exotic fruits, wild flowers & mild citrus notes
• moderate+ acids, phenomenal balance for such a modestly priced wine! palate matches the nose exactly
• serve as I did with your first course: the acids are enough to wake the palate, yet not so much as to make difficult to sip on it's own. I also paired with main course of Meaux mustard, maple and garlic grilled pork tenderloin & it was divine

Then we moved onto the Max Reserva Syrah. Little did I know that Errazuriz has gone green by decreasing the weight of their wine bottles by 14%! Every little step we all make is making a positive step - right?

Anyways - the Syrah is hand picked, and aged for 12 months in new French oak. It also won the Grand Médaille d’Or at the SAQ in April 2010. The world is starting to talk about this family that is celebrating 140 years of continuous wine making in Chile.

2007 Max Reserva Syrah, 14.5% $20 **excellent value**

D.O. Valle de Aconcagua

• deep violet and bruised plum color
• bouquet of hot alcohol, violets, leathery oak, blood, gamey meat, chalky soil
• moderate++ acids, full tannins, fully intense palate that matches the nose brilliantly
• This was a fantastic wine that will only get better! Buy it now - buy a case, then pull out a new bottle every 3 months to watch it develop. Great structure already, and a fully satisfying balance, there are enough tannins and acids to see this drinking well for another 3 to 5 years easily (IMHO)

Sainte Roseline, Provence

I love this time of year! Summer is the season to grill meats, sit under the sun, and have long talks over cold drinks. That is, unless you live in Vancouver. Today's daytime high? 12C. Wow - I've seen warmer in January, seriously.

So instead of the usual summer fair, we ended up with a roaring fire in the fireplace, and red wine as we watched an old movie. Molasses barbequed chicken, garlicky potatoes & basil-balsamic marinated grilled asparagus & portobello mushrooms. I would like to say that I cooked like this because it was a special occassion - but then - every night with my wife is a special occassion...

Celebrate yours.

2006 Roseline "Prestige" rouge (Syrah, Cabernat Sauvignon, Carignan)

by Chateau Sainte-Roseline, 13.5%, $15 **excellent value**

http://www.sainte-roseline.com/

• fully intense nose, with leathery oak, cigar box & pencil shavings, gamey bloody notes throughout
• moderate++ acids balanced by full tannins, flavors match the nose, with the oak showing through quite strongly
• pair this with food! Strong acids and tannins make me crave a little fat with this wine... at first I wanted to pair it with grilled meats, but more and more I came to the notion of the perfect marriage: a grilled bacon, tomato & aged cheddar sandwich. Great wine with a very good structure for the money, long developed palate and decent balance. But really, decant for an hour & serve with food or it can be a bit much.

Spanish New World

In the world of Spanish winemaking, a few fellows are trying something new. Something really new. These guys are taking satellite mapping to analyze the soil!!

Anyways - whatever the techniques, and even though they aren't from Rioja (joke), they still make good wine.

WINE A

clear visual;

• deep ruby centre
• moderate cherry rim with light brick tones *(little age - my guess 2005)
• moderate legs indicating alcohol 11%-12.5% max

clean nose; moderate+ intense notes of

• Spanish oak/leather
• vegetal & floral (*damp grass & lilies)
• rich terroir (I call it "baked earth syndrome" now)
• black plums & even a touch of blueberry
• slight spicy peppercorn

clean palate; 0 dryness, full-acid, full- tannin, moderate intense flavors

• baies rouges (strawberry, cherry, red currants are strong)
• leather & oak
• chalky gravel
• slight floral::: hibiscus?

moderate+/full- body, moderate+ alcohol (12%ish), long palate

These tannins are a bit chewy, and my notes said I thought this was due to long oaking. I only today learnt they oak this 10 months in American oak, then 6 months in new French... that's alot of oak for this blend of Merlot, Cab Sauv & Temperanillo. I would wait and see if the fruit can stand up to another few years for the tannins to soften. If I was to serve it - I would serve it only with food (on it's own it will rip up your tastebuds in short order) - and it would be fatty grilled meats. Think ribeye or striploin, not tenderloin. It's got a really well constructed structure to it, but the acids and the tannins are a bit overwhelming - they really do keep the fruit in the dark (as it were). Not my choice for $8/glass, but understandable for 8 Euro/bottle.

2004 Raimat "Abadia" Crianza, costers del segre (Spain) $8/glass @ JOEYS

some serious Syrah

Sandhill Syrah: award winning red wine from the Naramata Bench, and you must know that I am partial to the wines from the Naramata Bench.

So this was the first time for me making notes on Sandhill and I'm not sure what the hype is about. It was a well-made wine, but >>> well, let's just say that it was a well made wine and leave it at that.

WINE A

clear visual:

• deep plum centre
• slight strawberry/orangish brick rim suggesting light age (my guess was 2007 to 2008 and it was 2007)
• moderate+ legs indicating moderate+ alcohol (13%+)

clean nose: full- intense notes

• plum
• licorice
• spice (cinnamon & anise)
• deep earth & terroir

clean palate: 0 dryness, moderate+ acid, moderate++ tannin, fully intense notes:

• spicy plums
• blackberry jam
• tobacco
• chalky earth

moderate body

full alcohol (14.5%)

excellent length of over 10 seconds

This is a very well constructed wine, competely developed and full of gorgeous structure. However, I must admit that I prefer Syrahs/Shiraz with a touch less aggressiveness (Desert Hills is still my favorite BC Syrah to date). This is a wine that I feel demands some food to go with it, and can handle BIG food flavors... think grilled lamb, long-slow braised beef (osso bucco), garlic & rosemary, even reindeer (one of my favorites).

2007 Sandhill Syrah, BC (Naramata Bench) $22