It's Monday 01st December and in less than four weeks I will be celebrating my fourth anniversary in wine journalism. Only four years and yet it seems like so much longer because so much has happened and I have been fortunate enough to work with such gifted and passionate winemakers, cider-masters and distillers.

the inimitable and always congenial John Skinner of Painted Rock showing me the Cab Sauv that haunted me all year

It is because of their passion, and the way that this passion has inspired me, that I have decided to create The Chef and The Grape Top Wines and Spirits: a tribute to quality, value and passion.

My friends, we live in the Golden Age of Wine. Consumers have never in the history of (hu)Mankind had access to such a dizzying array of wines, of such rare calibre of excellence, from such distant corners of the world. And for a pittance! For a fraction of what one might have spent 100 years ago. We are blessed.

And here am I, perched in my corner of the office, where the vista unfolds at the base of the mountains; swaths of frozen gossamer already sheath the peaks and I can start to sense where the tree-tops, jade bristle-brushes waving in the winter breeze, will soon be sporting new coats of glistening ice-gems. And my mind wanders back through the year: the 2014 Vancouver Wine Festival, California Wine Fest, New Zealand Wine Fair and the amazing excursion from Oltrepo Pavese, Italy to name a few momentous tastings... yes, as I said, I am blessed.

These wines have been chosen out of about 2000 tasted in 2014 and have been chosen as much for Value as for sheer Excellence. That is to say, don't be surprised to see a $20 wine beat a $100 wine: to my mind, a $100 should be getting 92+points and if it doesn't then it's providing poor value. Just as a $20 wine that does score 92 points is providing amazing value.

Full descriptions are provided below:

TOP WINES AND SPIRITS 2014

1st place Sparkling: the STUNNING value of Cristalino

SPARKLING

1.    Cristalino Cava, Rose, Spain... 91+ points, $15+ CAD, $10-$12 USD

2.   Summerhill "Ariel", Kelowna, BC, Canada... 93 points, $85 CAD

3.   Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc-de-Noirs, Champagne, France... 93 points, $100+ CAD

honorable mention: Marques de Gelida, Gran Reserva Cava "CLAROR" (bio-dynamic), Spain... 92 points

WHITE

1.   Louis Latour 2010 Corton Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Burgundy... 94+ points, $120-$160+ USD

2.   Meyer Family Vineyards 2012 McLean Creek micro-cuvee, BC, Canada... 93+ points, $65 CAD

3.   M. Chapoutier Chante-Alouette Hermitage Blanc, Cotes-du-Rhone, France... 93+ points, $85 USD

honorable mention: Mudhouse single-vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand... 92+/93 points

ROSÉ

1st place Rose: David Akiyoshi's stunning Sangiovese

1.   David Akiyoshi 2012 Sangiovese rosé, Lodi, California... 92+ points, $18 USD

2.   Haywire 2012 Gamay Noir rosé, BC, Canada... 92 points, $25 CAD

3.   Cà del Gè Muscato Frizzante, Oltrepo Pavese, Italy... 92 points, €9

RED

1.   Black Hills 2010 Carmenere, BC, Canada... 95 points, $50 CAD (300 cases only)

2.   Thorn-Clarke "William Randell" Shiraz (Syrah), Barossa Valley, South Australia... 93+/94 points, $70+ CAD

3.   Bodega VistAlba Corte "A", Mendoza, Argentina... 93+ points, $65+ CAD

honorable mention: Painted Rock 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Skaha Lake, BC, Canada... 91+ points, $40 CAD

DESSERT

1.   Málaga Jorge Ordóñez "Old Vines", Portugal... 94 points, $75+ USD

2.   José Maria da Fonseca 20-year Moscatel de Setúbal, the Peninsula of Setúbal, Portugal... 93+ points, $65+ USD

3.   Dalva 1963 Colheita white-port, Duoro, Portugal... 93 points, $115++ USD

honorable mention: Hainle Vineyards 2010 Gewürztraminer Icewine, Peachland, BC, Canada... 93 points, $85++ CAD

1st place Spirits and perhaps the finest spirit I have ever experienced. #Magical

SPIRITS

1.   Marcel Trépout 1968 Armagnac, France... 94+ points, $150+ USD

2.  Pusser's 15-year, British Virgin Islands, West Indies... 93+ points, $90+ CAD

3.   Luksusowa potato Wódka (Vodka), Poland... 91 points, $25 CAD or less!

And now the chance to explain why I chose what I did...

SPARKLING

... small surprise to regular readers that Cristalino Cava has taken top place - AGAIN: absolutely stunning value for the money, this bubbly has garnered awards around the world and stunned sommeliers/judges everywhere. All you need to remember is that Wine and Spirit Magazine has given this their Value Award 3 years in a row - do I hear 4??

2nd place Sparkling: the Ariel from Summerhill, BC, Canada

... Summerhill winery's "Ariel" may be the most eloquent, elegant expression of sparkling wine I have ever had. I prefer this to Cristal and Dom Perignon, and consider it more on the level of Veuve Cliquet "La Grande Dame" but about $100 less per bottle! This is for lovers of mature sparkling wine (I just raised my hand) and carries nuanced tones of dried apricot, almonds and nougat, fresh baguette and cold, crisp, clean minerality amongst others.

... Nicolas Feuillatte may have crafted near-perfection with their 2012 Blanc-de-Noirs... I was overwhelmed by the levels, the concentration, the balance. This is one of the most beautiful expressions of Pinot Noir in Champagne I've had for years and, remember, 2014 Vancouver Wine Festival was themed on Sparkling Wine... I tasted more then a few :)

... I do love Cava, to be certain. That to one side, this offering from Marques de Gelida moves past the "limitations" of Cava and begins to express flavors and aromas most often only found in offerings from northern France for substantially more money! I was wholeheartedly impressed not only with craftsmanship but with the extreme value as this bubbly runs about $20 USD.

WHITE

... Louis Latour is a legend. This wine explains why: stunning layers, concentration, balance... the words are pitifully weak next to the wine. This is truly one of the most beautiful wines I've had in years and, hard for some to believe, is an Excellent Value at $150 USD. If one could find a Bordeaux red of this calibre, it would fetch $500++USD with ease and even a Champagne of this quality would be $300 USD. No - if you are a wine-lover, forget whether you love red or white. If I was a dinosaur I would be a "Bordeaux-a-saur" and yet even I acquiesce to this wines' greatness. If you do enjoy it, make room in your cellar for Chateau Musar white as well... a must!

Jak Meyer telling me about his Exceptional micro-cuvee Chardonnay

... I never expected to find one of the best values in Burgundy in Canada. Ever. And yet here I am telling you that, after working with Maison Jadot only last year, if you want fantastic value in Burgundian precision, Burgundian elegance, Burgundian intellect focused behind a purely Canadian terroir... pick up a case of the MFV micro-cuvee for about the price of 2 bottles of equivalent quality from Burgundy. An easy decision for me! Listen to the interview in the linked article above and, afterwards, you can ask Jak Meyer what Steven Spurrier thought of the wines if you don't believe me...

... wine has been grown in Hermitage for almost 2000 years. It took winemakers like Michel Chapoutier to turn that into #WorldClass product. This is, perhaps, not a record-setting year for scores from this region - but it is a singularly expressive vintage. This wine speaks with great verve of France, of region and of the varietal: 100%  Marsanne in this case. If you see this on a wine-merchant's shelf, purchase it - it is it's own reward.

... honorable mention went to Mudhouse and their inimitable winemaking duo for crafting the most eloquent expression of Sauvignon Blanc I have ever had. What Nadine Worley and Ben Glover have done is craft something so singular that it stands as an example of what is possible when people Believe. This carries depth and dimension far beyond its modest price-point and belongs to something far more grandiose. Small wonder Ben and Nadine, both, are recognized around the world for setting the highest standards for production and elocution.

ROSÉ

... David Akiyoshi was a name I had never heard before 2014, but a name that I shall now never forget. David is, to me, one of the most skilled winemakers I have (never) met. I've only tasted two of his wines; both were, shall we say, unusual to the marketplace - and yet utterly #WorldClass. This is one of the best Sangiovese I've ever had (for the price especially) and certainly one of the best rosé. If you haven't tried his wines yet then you simply haven't experienced the new taste of California!

a guest savoring the Vancouver moment with a glass of Ca del Ge muscato frizzante

... Haywire wines have been blazing a trail across British Columbia and Canada. To some (the un-learned) this means little. To those in the know, it means that these fine folks are kicking ass in one of the most progressive and competitive wine-regions on Earth. Smaller production than Algeria, BC is winning top honors around the world... and Haywire is winning awards amongst British Columbians. Will this be to your taste? I haven't the foggiest... but no one could try this and say it was anything less than superbly crafted.

... The first time I tasted the wines of the Oltrepo Pavese I was stunned into speechlessness (which
rarely, never happens). These "under-dogs" of the Italian winemaking community have been battling not only a growing international marketplace but, also, disdain from their own brethren. It seems as though Italians consider this region to be a "lesser" producer... to which all I can say is that genius is rarely recognized at home! Though I was mightily impressed with many wines, this rosé stood out as something unique and worthy of notice.

RED

... I'll perhaps never know if that sample bottle of Carmenere was really intended for me when my media pack was mixed with that of an older, more learned colleague - but I'll always be grateful for the confusion! For this was the second time I got to try the 2012 Black Hills Carmenere  and I knew - I knew - that it wasn't a fluke! This was one of the best red wines I have ever had in my life. And it was from Canada! Well throw out the rule-books and let's approach wine with an open mind because now anything is possible my friends! Graham Pierce (winemaker) and his team are pushing the boundaries of what is possible and they are doing this in a BIG way - expect greatness from subsequent vintages.

1st place Red and highest scoring wine of 2014: Black Hills Carmenere, BC, Canada

... After five generations of winemaking, I could expect competence, and hope for great professionalism - but who could predict that this family from South Australia would scoop award after award after award?! Well, anyone who is familiar with the portfolio could have... these guys are serious about their wine. The Thorne-Clarke "William Randell" takes Syrah/Shiraz to a new level that few wineries in the world can compete with and none can replicate. Ask me what I love most about it? I know that next year they'll put out the same level of product - or better. And the year after. And the year after that. And the year after that...

... Bordeaux is the standard by which all "Big Boys" measure their red-blends: Cab-Sauv, Merlot and perhaps Cab-Franc... except in Argentina where some bold wineries are including Malbec (one of the original Bordeaux varietals). In this we find Malbec with CabSauv and Bonarda... unexpectedly full of dimension, elegance and concentration this has the capacity to become a Mover-and-Shaker in the world of wine. For now expect to find this for a fraction of its true worth, and enjoy!

... my bias for BC wines comes not from being a native of British Columbia, because I'm not. My bias comes from the earnest toil that wineries are devoting to these new plantings; the absolute dedication to learning their land and coming to a fuller understanding of what the Land wants to express. None are taking that ideology more to heart than John Skinner and the team at Painted Rock on the bluffs above Skaha Lake in the Okanagan Valley DVA, British Columbia. This is not the best Cab-Sauv I had all year but it was so personal that the memory of that tasting has haunted me for months. Having watched the evolution of this winery's Chardonnay into what I consider Premier Cru level (in only a few years) I have no doubt that the development of this wine will be equally formidable. I advise purchasing sooner rather than later: the Red Icon (Bordeaux style blend) already sells in Singapore for $900/bottle.

DESSERT

... before this tasting I had never had a Málaga before: this spoiled me in the most beautiful way possible. The incredible concentration of flavors and aromas was staggering: warm Christmas spices like warm apple-cinnamon loaf fresh from the oven, grilled pineapple, pear chutney, fresh honeysuckle under a summer sun... and then there was the balance! Impeccable! Ripe sugars played off a near perfect harmony of lemon-balm full acid. For the price, this may be the finest dessert wine I have ever had.

3rd place Dessert: Dalva opened my eyes to an entirely new style of Port wines

... Moscatel de Setúbal is, much like any other grape, capable of greatness in the right hands. In the hands of José Maria it has grown beyond greatness and into something transcendent; this is an example to other winemakers of the power that comes with generations working towards a common goal. It is no flattery to say that this wine is on a level of craftsmanship and expression of region that many wineries may never reach: Christmas spices mixing with a hint of Raz-el-Hanout, baked earth, crusty bread fresh from the oven, almonds toasting in a pan... the aromas and flavors are so pure, so concentrated that they must be experienced to be believed.

... White Port. White Port?! Surely a joke; that's what I thought when I saw a winery owner at a stunning Portuguese wine-tasting with an aged white-port. I had always been taught that white ports were sub-standard; lacking in any true depth of flavor, concentration or finesse. I tasted the wine to be polite and was rewarded with one of the most unexpectedly decadent flavors of the year: rich nougatty-goodness with complimentary tones of slightly burnt honey, orange marmalade and orange blossom tea with the perkiest, most vibrant acid to balance the high levels of sugar. Harmonious. And this was my introduction to Dalva wines; producers of excellence and true pioneers in the crafting of vintage white port.

... I gave honorable mention to the Hainle vineyards Gewürztraminer icewine, and, small wonder; being the first producers of icewine in North America. This particular cuvée is named "Clare's vintage" in our house for it was purchased in honor of the birth of my daughter and what a spectacular way to celebrate it! Decadently sensual aromas of fresh apricot marmalade cooling in the window, over-ripe peaches dripping their honey-liquer on fingers as we devour them with gusto and an entire garden of summer flowers wafting through the room: yellow roses, daffodils, peonies, asters and dahlias. Brilliantly balanced, this will cellar for decades and reward the faithful.

SPIRITS

... I've met them: the snobs. Those who say that only Cognac is capable of true grace, balance and articulation. To them I quote the immortal John Cleese "phhhlllllllltttttttt" as I stick out my tongue. And then, were I in a graceful mood, I would pour them a dram of this heavenly elixir. The team at Marcel Trepout have been crafting some of the finest distillate in the world, and doing so for a very very long time. Remember that Armagnac was being produced 200 years before Cognac ever got started, and practice makes perfect! Aromas that blend and intertwine so seductively as to make the word “bouquet” utterly inept: salt-water toffee, white truffle shavings, a cacophony of Summer flowers melding into potpourri with fresh peaches/nectarines/pears and hints of wild thyme/bay leaf/sage/lavender growing on the hill... this is an Experience.

2nd place Spirits: one of the finest rums on the market today and easily scoring 93+ points.

... I'm a rum fan, no doubt about it. And, I've been an advocate for the craftsmanship of Pusser's rum; also, no question. But if someone would have told me that Pusser's 15-year would, in my mind, be challenging 18-year and 21-year Caribbean rums of long pedigree I would have been quick to argue: "I've been to Cuba!" I'ld state. "I've had brilliant examples of this work from some of the finest producers in the world!". A select group to which, for me, Pusser's now belongs without hesitation or reserve. For under $100 CAD this has been one of the finest spirits I have ever tasted: a harmony of orange zest, molasses, warm nutmeg and vanilla like a Christmas pudding just pulled from the oven and a big mug of black tea beside it... sublime. And it gives back to the community? Well that's like having your cake and eating it too :) Rhum-cake that is.

... bartenders everywhere are nodding their heads in agreement with me on my choice for third place; Luksusowa Wódka is most likely the finest quality spirit of it's class and out-performs competitors much more expensive than it is. My ultimate test for distillates is to taste them straight and at room temperature... a test for which most $20-something vodkas would make me cringe. The Luksusowa is beautiful! Crisp, clean and without any of the "petrol" notes one finds in many spirits under a certain price. I've had the pleasure of creating stunning infusions with it as well as many classic cocktails. I have never found a vodka for anywhere near the price that competes. #StunningValue

the reason why I celebrated that bottle of Marcel Trepout

I sincerely hope that this enlightens you to some of the great treasures out there in the world of wine and spirits in 2014. To the winemakers, distillers, agents and importers I worked with: many thanks again for your time and generosity throughout the year. It has been my great privilege to work with each and every one of you and I look forward to being able to share more of your stories, on an even larger media platform, in the coming year.

   Chef Kristof Gillese

As always you can find more recipes, free wine reviews and my notes on premium distillates and cigars on:

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Maison Louis Latour, Montagny 1er cru 2009

www.louislatour.com

There’s a minute group of businesses who belong to a special club; an “uber” tier to the concept of family-run companies called the Henokiens. The membership is limited to companies that are leaders in their respective fields, remain family owned, have a history of 200 years’ experience and still bares the name of the founder… you won’t be surprised now to learn that the membership is currently stuck at 30 companies. In the entire world.

So my last trip down to Las Vegas I was recommended this little gem by my good friends at the Double Helix in the Venetian ( www.doublehelixwine.com ). These are my same highly proficient colleagues who introduced me to the Chateau LaFleur St Jean which is right across a country road from Petrus and yet sells for less then $100 USD a bottle… with 3-4 years of cellar age on it~!! So anyways, when these people make a suggestion I perk both my ears and prepare to learn.

the Latour wine-making facility

And opening this bottle was certainly a learning experience. This has balance, structure, precision… in short it has all of the qualities that one could ever hope for from Burgundy and it has them in ample quantity. Best part? It only runs about $50-60 USD so about half the price of what I would pay in British Columbia (the second highest liquor tax in the world).

I knew enough from my FWS (French Wine Scholar) program to know when I smelled, swirled and tasted the wine that it was something special, but it was when I read about the company that I discovered just how unique this really is. Since 1797 the family has been refining their skills as negocients or wine-brokers… but to call them brokers is really a failure in translation as there is so much more then that. This is a family that for 10 generations, from father to son, has bequeathed a legacy of winemaking that has little comparison. For how does one compare any modern winery against this kind of collective wisdom? Centuries of studying their soil, the aspect, the slope, the way the wind flows in Autumn… a thousand minute details collected, organized and put to good use. Who can really hope to equal the Burgundians when it comes to knowing one’s land?

And here is the family, still working the land and honoring tradition whilst being leaders in innovation. Of particular note is their intricate wine-making facility in which all handling of the juice from the grapes is done through gravity to eliminate unnecessary oxidization.

I could go on, but the best proof of a wineries work is still to be found – in the glass~!

2009 Montagny 1er cru “La Grande Roche”

Cote Chalonaise, Cote D’Or, Burgundy

91+ points

soil: limestone, chalk, clay

*NOTE: DO NOT SERVE TOO CHILLED! UNDER 15c/68F WILL INHIBIT AROMAS/FLAVOURS

• This wine sings with precision from the initial aromas to the end of the palate: a textured bouquet of clean hay/almonds/crushed seashell minerality is brilliantly balanced by crisp/lean acids driven by that self-same seashell mineral focus. The structure is impeccable and the length a generous 20-30 seconds… a natural pairing for seafood, but especially richer Oyster Affairs such as the classic Oysters Rockefeller 

As a New World consumer, it’s difficult sometimes to truly understand the Old World systems: premier cru, grande cru, premier classe, vielle vignes, appellation… how do any of these words have bearing on California, Washington or Ontario? Well as a much wiser man explained to me, if wine were art then the French vineyards are Degas, Cezanne or Matisse. The vineyards, and the people who have helped shaped them into what they are, have defined a style of wine-making that all must learn if they are to ever develop their own art. Burgundy and the Cote Chalonnaise are not the be-all/end-all of what Chardonnay is~!

But. But it’s families such as the Latours who inspired people like the Wente clan of California; without whom there would be little in the way of Chardonnay in the New World, and even less quality. It isn’t obligatory to honor these pantheons for their own sake, but respecting centuries of dedication seems the least we New World consumers can do. And so I raise the last of my glass to the great artists of Burgundy and invite you, when you want to taste Old School precision to do the same.

As always, I look forward to your thoughts, comments and questions. Here, or:

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

a Master-level lecture on Burgundy by Pierre-Henry Gagey of Maison Louis Jadot

Faithful readers will remember that I was recently honored by being invited to  guest sommelier at the Post Hotel ( http://www.posthotel.com ) for their annual Wine Summit ( http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2012/07/post-hotel-wine-summit-2012.html )

Pierre-Henry Gagey (thanks to WineTerroir.com)

   I could go into detail again and again about the majesty of the setting; the backdrop of rugged Rocky Mountains still capped in snow at the end of May (it snowed twice during the 3 days I was there). I could recant tales of sitting indolently in the smoking lounge; enjoying a brilliantly well-kept Cohiba and sipping aged Gran Marnier whilst reading a new novel. I could even wax poetic about the brilliantly executed service in every department of that luxurious, yet truly comfortable, hotel.

   I could, but we'ld be here all day and I wouldn't get to talk about meeting Pierre-Henry Gagey, President of Maison Louis Jadot ( www.LouisJadot.com ).

   So the tiniest bit of back-story just for context; Maison Louis Jadot was a family owned and run winery from the mid 1800's until 1985. At that time the matriarch of the family decided to sell interest in the company to 3 major shareholders as she had no heir. These were the three daughters of the Kopf family, who had been instrumental in the continued development of Louis Jadot as a brand, especially in America. At this point Pierre's father was the incumbent Director of the winery and had a more then able assistant winemaker, and Pierre had just come on-board the year previous. Pierre had made his way in the world in a completely different industry before starting to follow in his father's footsteps but, in his own words, "it has brought me a perspective on the world of wine that I would not have had otherwise".

   Having had more then one career before turning to wine and wine-journalism, I can understand that on a profound level. I found I understood a lot more about Pierre and his thoughts on wine then I expected going into the lecture... I'm not sure what it was I had expected, but I'm certain I wasn't the only one surprised to genuinely like him so much!

   It was easy to like Pierre; quick-to-smile and rarely a negative word crossing his lips, his eyes full of mischief as he talks about tramping through the vineyards... the following is a recounting of that, as co-host Anthony Gismondi ( www.GismondionWine.com ) called it, "Master-class on Burgundy and Burgundian Wines".

  Mr Gismondi (Tony as he likes to be called) started by recanting a tale of his first visit to Maison Louis Jadot and what was supposed to be a modest sampling of vintages before the evening meal... the tasting started at about 7 pm with 30 white wines from different vineyard sites. Just when Tony thought that they were nearing the end and could move on to dinner (about 9 pm now) out comes Pierre with 30 different reds! Needless to say, dinner was a glimmer on the horizon not realized until very late in the evening.

   Pierre-Henry will tell you with genuine enthusiasm about his work; he is a Burgundian making wine in Burgundy. What's noteworthy about that you ask? Well, truth be told, flying winemakers are everywhere these days and Burgundy is not without it's fair share... Italians, Germans, Australians, Americans, people from across the globe have re-discovered their love for these wines and are coming to try their hand at crafting Burgundian elegance. But Pierre was born here, and loves to find ways to let this land tell it's own story.

   In his words "My family has been in Burgundy for many generations and this is what we have been doing. So making Burgundian wine is in our blood... I try not to think too much about it. I respect the grape and try to give to the people who drink our wine some of the landscape."

  Pierre then launched into a brief history of the region; speaking of the legacy of winemaking in Burgundy that stretches back over 2000 years. "Of course," he says, "back then we didn't know how to make wine! But we learned. We learned from our cousins in Italy who settled here. And we started with Pinot Noir, which is everything. Pinot Noir was one of the first grapes, and it is the base of everything."

   He then cautioned about the necessity in Burgundy to keep the varietal as pure as possible, and not get overzealous with mutations. Clones are a necessity, of course, when considering planting a Burgundian vine in another land. But in Burgundy, the vines have naturally selected themselves into something beautiful and respect must be given to that.

  
2009 Domaine J.A. Ferret, "Les Clos", Tet de Cru, Pouilly-Fuisse

$30 USD
this is from a 1 HA site; single vineyard

Pierre starts by praising the 2009 vintage as not only being a great vintage for Burgundy, but indeed for most of Europe. "You would have to be an idiot, not to make a great wine this year". But for Burgundy what makes a great vintage is (to Pierre) a great month of September. "You don't want to have too much sunshine because the Pinot Noir is a fragile creature and when it gets too much sunlight the sugars start to rise. The best is good sunlight, light breezes and low moisture: it allows the grape to maintain it's acidity while still developing flavors."

• this was the first Domaine in the area to start bottling their own wines over 100 years ago. The estate has been owned and managed solely by women ever since and Pierre has been trying to purchase land in this area for over 20 years... he was unsuccessful until 2005 and is very excited to have this 13 HA addition to his portfolio. Maison Jadot has continued the traditions practiced here, and has hired a young 29-year old female vineyard manager to oversee production.
• "this is very different from the Cote de Beaune" he continues, "this is very friendly, very inviting. Of course there is minerality; there is tension, precision, purity."

Mr Gismondi then posed the question to Pierre "How do you approach winemaking when you have, let's say, 5 sites all within a few kilometres of each other?"

Pierre's response: "The idea of Burgundy (as concerns wine) is that the  winemaker should always be in the background, never in front. And really, this is the concept of terroir. It is a combination of elements that are crafted by the winemaker... in Burgundy, yes, we could blend our wines (from different sites) together and we know that we would make great wine. We know this! But would lose our identity, we would lose why Burgundy is so unique."

2009 Mersault (blanc)

$55+ USD

•  total production 6000 cases
• produced from multiple growers and multiple sites (some quite famous)
• Pierre reluctantly acknowledges that "this wine is as good, if not better, then anything that Maison Jadot is making from it's own vineyards..."
• 10% new oak, fermentation in barrel. Different use of oak for 1er Cru (30%) and Grand Cru (up to 50%)
•  malo-lactic fermentation (degradation in Pierre's words) is avoided, or slowed, by storing the wine in as cool of a cellar as possible. Pierre is staunchly against acidification of his wines

2009 Domaine Gagey, "Le Clos Blanc", 1er Cru, "Greves", Beaune

$60+ USD  

• this planting was started by Pierre's grandfather with vine-cuttings from Montrachet
• "we think that the pleasure in this wine is in it's subtlety, that it is discreet. But - precise!"
• he continues by explaining why he thinks Burgundy can make such stunning examples of place: "we are lucky in Burgundy, because we have been studying our vineyards for 500 years... many places cannot say that but we can. it makes all the difference to know our soil like this"

2009 Domaine Duc de Magenta, 1er Cru, "Clos de la Garenne", Puligny-Montrachet

$70+ USD

•  the family that produces this wine for Maison Jadot has a long relationship with the company and produces (2) wines for them, the other being Chassagne-Montrachet
• 2 HA; single vineyard
• Pierre was asked how much control Maison Jadot has over the producers: when they pick, at what ripeness, how careful is the sorting, etc. Pierre's response: "very little actually. It is a relationship of trust; some of these growers we have been working with for 30, 40 years. They understand our needs, our level of quality, and respect the trust we put in them."

2009 Domaine de Heritiers Louis Jadot, Grand Cru, "Corton-Charlemagne"

$90++ USD 

• the largest of the 6 Grand Cru of Beaune at approximately 50 HA
• this is from a 2.5 HA plot (southern exposure) that Maison Jadot bought almost 100 years ago
• when asked as to what kind of "style" Maison Jadot is trying to create, Pierre responds: "when I'm asked about style I think of my friend who makes Champagne... we are not interested in style, we are looking for character which is more accurate for us.  The lees for example are very important; the lees feed the wine. So we keep some lees."
• Pierre continues to speak of this particular wine "You can feel that this is different in the mouth; a little fuller, a different vibration. We don't have the words for this but we know that it is different and is on a different level."
 

2009 Chateau des Jacques, "Clos du Grand Carquelin", Moulin-a-Vent

$35++ USD

• this was a great experience for me; to see a Bourgogne winemaker putting Beaujolais in the same portfolio tasting as Premier Cru Beaune and Grand Cru Chambertin. Loyal readers know of my personal love and professional respect for the great winemakers of Northern Beaujolais. I think they often get lumped-in with winemakers of another level of quality who produce "Beaujolais Nouveau"... which is not to say that all Beaujolais Nouveau is poor quality, but the great Nouveaus are rare. Whereas great quality Morgon, Fleurie and Moulin-a-Vent  abound!
• Pierre is very excited about northern Beaujolais as well, in large part because "the Beaujolais area is having a very tough time. They are having a tough time because the quality has been mediocre over the past 30, 40 years. Which is a pity because the Gamay grape, grown on the granitic soil (which is very different from Burgundy clay and marl soil) can produce very good wine."
• Pierre and his father came to this property in 1986 and recognized it's potential for greatness immediately. In Pierre's words "sometimes you just stand in a place and you know it has the potential to produce greatness"
• Under previous ownership there had been two labels; the upper-echelon named "vielles vignes" or "old-vines". Pierre isn't interested in labels such as this (nor Reserve, Special Reserve, etc) even though the vine-age is now between 30 and 50 years old, and so with his father broke the vineyard down to 5 specific sites, each with their own characteristics including this site with a particularly high proportion of Manganese
• at this point Pierre even invited the audience to "play a trick" on their friends: "take a bottle of 2009 Beaujolais and put it in your cellar for 5 years, easily, because 2009 was a great year for the Beaujolais area. 2011 is also a great vintage... then serve it blind for your friends and you will be surprised! Because what happens then to great Beaujolais is really spectacular; the Gamay disappears, leaving only great wine. The Gamay isn't important, it is Moulin-a-Vent that is important, it is Clos de Carquelin that we taste in this wine!"

2006 Domaine des Heritiers Louis Jadot, 1er Cru, "Clos des Ursules" Beaune (rouge)

$50+ USD (not widely available)

• Pierre chose 2 separate vintages of red Burgundy specifically to showcase terroir and what vintage variation can do with that terroir. In Pierre-Henry's words, 2005 was a great year that often times overshadows 2006 (unfairly as the '06 often tastes better right now) and capable of great aging... drink your '06 now and save the '05!
• this vineyard (2.5 HA) is the very first piece of property bought by Maison Jadot over 150 years ago. It is a monopole; meaning that there is only one owner (Maison Jadot in this case)
• total production is about 800 cases/year
• average vine age is 25 years

2005 1er Cru, "Clos de la Commaraine" Pommard
$50+ USD

• rated 90 points by Allen Meadows (the Burghound)
• Pierre launched into a dialogue about the "age-ability" of wines in response to a question from Anthony Gismondi about how long Maison Jadot wines could and should age: "any Maison Jadot can age for 10 years for sure, sometimes 15, 20, 30 years... we are drinking wines right now from 1904, 1911. But I get this question a lot; when should I drink this wine? It will not be better in 10 years, it will be different. Don't - forgive me Anthony - but don't listen too much to journalists! Trust your own palate!"
• we were then educated by Pierre as to why he had chosen the opposing vintages: "clearly you can see why you should not drink the 2005! This is too young, and even though it is a different area... Pommard is always a little tighter, a little more tension. There are 3 great Premier Cru in Pommard. This is not so well known because only one proprietor... we do not own the vineyard, we have a long-term contract with the owner. And so even if this is not so easy to find, it is very good value"

2007  Domaine Gagey, 1er Cru, "Les Baudes", Chambolle-Musigny (rouge)

$100+ USD

• 90 points from Stephan Tanzer, 16.5/20 from Jancis Robinson
• located immediately below Les Bonnes Mares Grand Cru and considered rich and powerful expressions of the region
• "when you hear the name Chambolle-Musigny you think elegance, delicacy, beauty! For us Chambolle-Musigny is a dream; the name itself has a certain sensualitie. These wines are sensual."
• this is a small vineyard that Pierre's father bought in the 1990's and only produces 5 or 6 casks per year
• this vintage was "a little more difficult"... up to 25% of the crop was lost to the sorting table but, as Tony stated so elegantly, "perhaps you (Pierre) suffer too much from the Maison Jadot condition of seeing your work as good, very good, and "could-be-better". This is such a good wine Pierre, I think you can relax." That was a comment that won resounding applause from the audience.

2006 Grand Cru, "Griotte-Chambertin"
$120-$170++

• very small vineyard less then 5 HA, only 3 proprietor
• to Pierre he can taste the impression of the local cherries, and not just the cherries, but the flesh of the cherries "and that is 2006; a great vintage for drinking now, but is also Griotte. I love this place"

2009 Domaine Louis Jadot, Grand Cru, "Clos Vougeot"

$150+++ USD

• average vine age is 30 years
• "2009 a great vintage; obviously a little young right now. Can be a little tough in the beginning! This young it is very tight. But the vintage is excellent."
• "this (Clos Vougeot) is so important for Burgundy because so many great winemakers have come here "
• "and you notice these spices in your mouth? We think these spices are typical of great Burgundy when they are young..."
• Pierre had evidently finally realized that his 1.5 hour lecture had been running into overtime for quite awhile, and tried a summation: "Obviously now when you have heard us winemakers talk, you have heard our passion. And it is our hope that you will hear this and be filled with a kind of envy and want to come, yes, come to Burgundy. It is good to taste the wine, and good to come to the wine-cellar, but you are young and full of life! Come work in the vineyard for a day! Then you will know the true Burgundy!". Anthony Gismondi responded with the succinct "Just get out of your car."

Pierre-Henry in Chicago

   Pierre is more then friendly, more then polite and well-spoken in several languages. Pierre is authentically passionate, and it's that passion that resonates though his audience and through his wines. By the end of our 90 minute lecture (which ran over by 30 minutes) I'm pretty sure that most of the room was enthralled. We were held captive by an unabashed love of Burgundy, and for what Burgundian soil can produce in it's wines; cool and steely Chablis,  delicate yet layered Cote de Nuits and the rich-fruit-bombs, full-of-earthy-perfume from Morgon and Moulin-a-Vents. Bourgogne (Burgundy) is as capable of greatness in it's wines as any other region.

  But not every region has champions like Pierre-Henry Gagey.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

 CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!