Showing posts with label steak frites. Show all posts
Showing posts with label steak frites. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 27, 2013

Perseus wines, British Columbia vqa

 http://perseuswinery.com/

 
A winemaker friend of mine told me recently:

   "Sending my wine to competition is roughly equivalent to the stress I might have faced, had I sent my children to beauty pageants."

...
Rob Ingram, owner
Rob Ingram, owner
A Little Dramatic I thought, but I gave him the benefit of the doubt. Flash-forward a few weeks and I'm scribbling away at my notes for the new release of Perseus Winery, his words coming back to haunt me. I considered the wineries (relatively) new owner Rob Ingram and what stresses and challenges he must be facing in his day-to-day business as he sends forth his enological minions to all parts of Canada.

One of the biggest stresses must be that he has worked through three consulting winemakers in as many years, trying to find the right fit. Having settled his focus now with JM Bouchard, who is best known to British Columbians for his work at Road 13 just down the street, I can only believe that a greater clarity will come quickly to the wines.

A native of Quebec, which is perhaps better known these days for the decadent "iced-cider" then it is for wine production, Jean Martin (or JM as he prefers) never planned on becoming a winemaker. But that being said, I've met with those who hail from a multi-generation wine-making family and smile in recognition as I hear JM saying "Its all about the dirt!"

You read it in my reviews time and time again, how the top-level professionals in the wine industry have moved in-line with the idea that 90% of making a wine is growing great grapes. We forget, sometimes, how contrary that is to what was wide-spread practice in the industry only a short generation ago (and in some cases, much-much more recent then that!)... there was a time when making wine was more chemistry then artistry, more equation then inspiration and perspiration. We have moved forward, as a collective, by looking back at the "ancestral farming" and even "ancestral wine-making", when less was more and we didn't put into the soil (or the wine) what we didn't want to take out.


And what I took from my glass(es) of Perseus was delightful:

perseus 2011-Chardonnay

2011 Chardonnay

*BENEFITS FROM A 30 MINUTE DECANT OR 1 RUN THROUGH THE AERATOR

89+ points

  • displaying a smokey/flinty mineral-driven nose, this wine has zippy (full) lemon-peel acids that will work wonders with roast chicken! Packing a strong initial flavor-punch of the same mineral tones, I think it safe to say that the winemaker enjoys his white-Burgundy very much. If you want to pair food off the minerality, then oysters/clams/mussels are a natural! Oysters Rockefeller anyone???

perseus 2012 gewurztraminer


2012 Gewurztraminer

90 points

*NO NEED TO DECANT/AERATE
  • This varietal is to wine what a sundress is to women: highly complimentary. And few places in the world are producing so many different interpretations of Gewurztraminer as is British Columbia; this being a personal  favorite! The bouquet is a kaleidoscope of lush tropical flowers, peach/apricot compote and yet delicate mineral-tones underneath. The palate is awash in bright (full) grapefruit acids that are going to be perfect with my next seafood Thai dish and the relatively low alcohol means that I can have that food as spicy as I want. Yum~!


perseus 2011-Merlot

2011 Merlot

89 points

*BENEFITS FROM 1 HOUR DECANT OR 1 RUN THROUGH AN AERATOR
  • Dark ruby core and bright cherry rim, this wine is a very cool-climate example of Merlot. The aromas are full of bright red cranberry/raspberry/currant tones with a hint of warm/spicy musk/earth underneath. The palate is full of those same, ultra-cool, ultra-bright red berry flavors with the slight earthy background and huge chunky tannin just waiting for big, rich winter foods to balance it.

perseus 2011-Syrah-Malbec


2011 Syrah/Malbec

91+ points

*MINIMAL DECANTING/AERATION NEEDED
  • Stunning. From the moment I poured it in the glass, this wine flooded my room with heady aromas of warm tropical flowers, red and black berries, precise graphite-like minerality, subtle oak and more... the sophistication of the bouquet was easily matched by the concentration and balance of the palate which exuded many of the same characteristics and in a refreshingly unique manner. This is not classical Syrah, nor is it classic Argentinian Malbec, but it is a delightful mix of both those worlds. I want no food with it, only my fireplace and a great cigar. But, if I needed to eat, then certainly I would use beef as the Argentinians do and delight my friends with how brilliantly it pairs with any steak. Bon appetit~!

perseus 2010-Cabernet-Sauvignon


2010 Select lots Cabernet-Sauvignon

90 points

*NEEDS 1 HOUR+ DECANT OR 2 RUNS THROUGH AN AERATOR
  • of note: my preference for this wine would be to cellar minimum 2 years to allow it to really come into it's own
  • a deep, dark and inky wine, the aromas are full of traditional red and black currant, leather and graphite notes. Medium+ acids and full/chewy/meaty tannin make me want to use this as a food-wine... the palate is very similar to the nose and enjoys a medium or average length finish. Unquestionably a brilliant choice for your Winter dishes of: roast beef, pot roast, prime rib etc. Want a different pairing? Try this with an ultra-rich dark chocolate dessert and be amazed~!

perseus 2010-Invictus


2010 "Invictus"

Bordeaux-styled blend of: 56% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec

89+ points

*BENEFITS FROM 1 HOUR DECANT OR 1 RUN THROUGH AN AERATOR
  • so dark it seems more black then purple... bruised one might say. Medium concentration aromas that start with the freshness of red raspberries/currants and develop into some blueberry/blackberry tones, warm savory herbs and earth with more then a hint of vanilla. Crisp med+ red currant acids and chewy full tannin, an approachable alcohol (14.9% ABV) to be wary of - truly a wine made for big meals. Very good balance and good structure with medium- length... this wine won't disappoint with your hearty Winter dishes, or for the person who just can't help but fire-up their barbeque for just - one - more - steak!

perseus logo

Perseus is a young winery even by BC standards, which means that for most of the world it's barely out of the womb. But. But with talented, passionate individuals like Jean-Martin Bouchard to watch over her, and with the determination of an owner like Rob Ingram (who managed to secure said talent!), I have no doubts that the winery and the wines will continue to grow and evolve. And any winery that evolves from making their own utterly unique blends right out-of-the-gate will undoubtedly grow into something worth watching.

The proof is in the glass!

As always, I welcome your thoughts here or on Twitter @AStudentofWine

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Sunday, January 8, 2012

Chateau D'Arche, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux Superieur

Alot of names for a little bottle of wine, and I can easily remember the days when this would have been daunting. Let me try and help you understand the label of this lovely (and relatively inexpensive) little way to enter the fiscally intimidating region of Bordeaux.

Chateau D'Arche in Ludon, Medoc
   Firstly, Chateau D'Arche is a very well established chateau; it was classified as a "Cru Bourgeois" in 1932 (explanation to follow) and for almost 20 years has been owned and managed by the owners of the prestigious Chateau Palmer (http://www.mahler-besse.com/). Chateau Palmer, a Grand Cru Classe, is exorbitantly expensive. To wit: a 1945 Chateau Palmer will auction for over $15,000 USD and it's only a 91-point wine.

 I cannot afford Chateau Palmer. But that being said, I am more then willing to enjoy the work of Mähler-Besse (the owners) and their winemaker at a fraction of the cost.

 Now as to the Cru Bourgeois: back in 1855 Emperor Napoleon mandated a classification of the chateau of Bordeaux for the Paris Exposition. The chateau were classified mostly according to the price of the wines and were not intended (we are taught) to be a judgement on quality. This list was divided into Premier Cru (First Class), Deuxiemes Cru (Second Class) and so on through Fifth Class.

   Well very little has changed since that time with the exception that the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and Agriculture created a "Cru Bourgeois" in 1932. This list included 444 wineries that were thought to be of "high quality" and was divided into several tiers as well. This multi-tier system has since been annulled (as of 2008) and there is only one tier: Cru Bourgeois. This is supposed to indicate a high quality wine that was not on the official classification of 1855. Enough history?

   Time for some geography~! What is the Haut-Medoc?? Please refer to my article http://astudentofwine.blogspot.com/2011/01/chateau-la-gorce-medoc-bordeaux-france.html . Suffice it to say that the Medoc region is Left Bank Bordeaux (which in general means the wine will have a significant proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon) and the Haut-Medoc has the highest ratio of Grand Cru chateau.

1999 Chateau D'Arche, Haut-Medoc
Cru Bourgeois Superieur 
$45 BCLDB   **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

commune:   Ludon-Medoc
blend:         45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 15% Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Carmenere
age of vines: minimum 35 years
soil type:    rich gravel
cultivation: completely manual without the use of any chemicals
vinification: traditional saignee method with 21 day maceration
aging:         12 months in 35% new French barriques
awards:      15.5/20 Vinum Wine Magazine
                   2 stars Le Guide Hachette des Vins
  • visual:   clear; medium garnet core with light cherry-brick rim and slight sediment
  • nose:   clean; fully intense and developed bouquet of red and black berries; cherries, black raspberries, blackberries, crisp red currant and cassis, intoxicating summer floral notes of roses, green peppers from the Carmenere and rich savory woodsy and earthy background
  • palate: clean; dry, moderate+ (still crisp red currant) acids, moderate (well integrated and chalky) tannins, medium body, moderate+ alcohol (12.5%), moderate intensity and developed flavors similar to the nose with emphasis on the red berry flavors with a strong woodsy/oaky/earthy presence mid-palate. Good balance, very good structure, good length
  • conclusion:   drinking well now, I have heard people say that this vintage will cellar to 2020... perhaps, but there will be no further development of flavors and one is in danger of losing the last of these zippy acids
  • FOOD PAIRINGS:   as with any great Cab-Sauv blend, my natural inclination is to steak. As this is French, why not a classic Steak Frites with peppercorn demi-cream or even with Steak Tartare and roast elephant garlic jam as an appetizer?


   Chateau D'Arche is not a Grand Cru wine, but it most certainly is Grand Cru skill utilized to it's fullest. The reward is in the glass!


As always, I look forward to your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Saturday, October 15, 2011

Thelema Mountain Vineyards Merlot

So I heard a story recently about an award-winning winemaker from South Africa who used to be a chartered accountant...

I waited patiently for the punchline.

There isn't one. It's a true story and Gyles Webb from Thelema Mountain Vineyards (www.Thelema.co.za) really used to be an accountant, but more then that he was (and is) a man with a passion: excellence in wine.
Thelema vineyards (arial view)

   Gyles and his wife Barbara had dreamt of finding themselves the right spot in Stellenbosch to make the wine they knew they could make. It was a long search, but an abandoned fruit farm of approximately 157 ha became their new home. The farm had been long abandoned, and though grapes had once been grown there - there were none when the Webbs moved onto the property.

   The amount of work that went into developing the land from fruit orchard to working winery was staggering and the Webbs aren't done yet~! In 2000 Thelema bought a 45 ha apple orchard in the Elgin Valley and began to convert it to cool-climate varietals such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.
Thelema vineyards (tasting room)

   But it was the 2006 Merlot that really caught my attention; deep, dark and delicious it's a uniquely rich version of the grape. Merlot of course is capable of many faces; from a soft and fruit-driven single varietal to a blend with Cabernet Sauvignon to a fully tannic and an intense dark berry and chocolate flavor profile. This showing from Thelema would certainly fall under the latter category and is brilliantly executed.

2006 Thelema Mountain Vineyards Merlot
$36    **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

altitude:    approximately 500 m
soil:          Hutton: high proportion of decomposed granite
vines:        planted 1988
maturation:   20 months oak (40% new)
  • visual:   clear; fully intense bruised plum core with slightest cherry/brick rim
  • nose:   clean; moderate+ intense and developed aromas of blackberry, black cassis, black raspberry, light savory herbs and eucalyptus notes
  • palate: clean, dry, moderately intense (red and black currant) acids, moderate+ (soft, smooth, silty) tannins, moderate+ body, moderate+ alcohol (14.5%), moderate+ intense and developed flavors similar to the nose with a distinct peppery finish. Very good to excellent balance and structure with long length
  • conclusion:  I agree with the winemaker's notes that this wine is peaking now and should be enjoyed over the next 24 months. Will not improve with further aging.
  • FOOD PAIRINGS:   a soft and smooth red wine with rich tannin structure screams red meat to me... I was thinking butter poached beef tenderloin with wild thyme roast BC mushrooms and crispy parnip chips but hey, that's just my style :)

  

 I like hearing stories that end on a positive note; an accountant and his wife have a burning passion for wine. They search for their place in the world and work their a$$es off to make the land work and work with the land. Many of you know that I have a new light in my life; Clare Elizabeth (the LittlestStudentofWine). I understand the value of hard work and have a new-found comprehension  for how and why people are willing to dedicate themselves to building something bigger then themselves.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Tinhorn Creek vineyards, Okanagan Valley DVA, BC

I like to support local industry. I especially like supporting local industry when they are producing quality goods, but I love supporting local when they produce quality products in a responsible manner.


   Let me introduce you to Tinhorn Creek vineyards (www.tinhorn.com).

   Tinhorn creek is Canada's first carbon-neutral winery and, just as important, they produce quality wines. Sandra Oldfield is the newly appointed CEO and President of the winery, as well as wearing the hat of winemaker and so it truly is under the leadership and guidance of Sandra that Tinhorn Creek has become a fixture of BC winemaking.



2010 Pinot Gris
$18   ** Good Value **

Awards:   SILVER - San Fransisco International Wine Competition, 2011
Maturation:   one third sur-lies for approximately 8-10 weeks, then blended with the rest. 100% stainless steel
  • nose:   clean; fully intense and youthful aromas of dusty summer florals and orchardfruit with a light mineral backbone
  • palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (green apple) acids, moderate+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking the nose. Good balance and structure, medium length
  • PAIRINGS:   vibrant yet restrained acids made me think of a lighter flavored and less fatty fish such as our local shark; dogfish... try grilled shark with salsa verde and watch the grill bring dimension through contrast and the pungent herbaceousness of the salsa open the Pinot Gris naturally light herbal notes

2009 Chardonnay
$17   *** Very Good Value ***

Awards:   SILVER - World Value Wine Challenge, 2010 JUDGES CHOICE International Value Wine Awards, Wine Access Magazine, 2010
Maturation:  28% in new French oak for 2-3 months
  • nose:   clean; moderate+ intense and youthful aromas of buttery pear, light exotic fruit and grilled pineapple... very modern BC
  • palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (very well balanced lemon zest) acids, moderate+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking the nose in a cool-climate manner... refreshing~! Very good balance and structure, medium length
  • PAIRINGS:   with the acidity and nuanced buttery/exotic/stonefruit flavors my mind immediately went to roast turkey with white-truffled chestnuts and perhaps a savory focaccia, sage and apple stuffing... but that's just me



2010 Gewurztraminer
$18   *** Very Good Value ***

maturation:   4 weeks stainless steel
  • nose:   clean; moderate+ intense and youthful traditional aromas: rich rosehips, lush lychee, grapefruit marmalade, apricot coulis
  • palate:   clean; dry, fully intense (very well integrated green apple) acids, moderate+ intense and youthful flavors mimicking well the nose. Very good balance and structure, medium length
  • PAIRINGS:   the rich flavors and strong structure allow this wine to be paired with stronger flavored foods, whilst the natural fruitiness will soften spicy food... consider this as a natural not only with Vietnamese or Thai foods, but also East Indian food from any number of regions (from vindaloo to tiki masala)... for myself I thought of grilled chicken with spicy peanut and cilantro dipping sauce

2008 2-bench white
$23   *** Very Good to EXCELLENT Value ***

AwardsSILVER - West Coast Wine Competition, 2011
BRONZE - NorthWest Wine Summit, 2011
BRONZE - Canadian Wine Awards, 2010
varietals:   44% Chardonnay, 26% Sauvignon Blanc, 17% Semillon, 12% Viognier, and 1% Muscat
maturation:   Sauvignon Blanc was fermented in a stainless steel tank by itself, Semillon and Viognier were co-fermented together in stainless steel as were the Chardonnay and Muscat
  • nose:   clean; moderate+ intense and developing aromas of papaya, ripe stonefruit, gala apples, strawberries and dried raisins
  • palate: clean, dry, moderate+ to fully intense (green apple and lemon balm) acids, moderate+ to fully intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose. Very good balance and structure with a long length
  • PAIRINGS:   although this layering in this wine would do well with the lighter green curried dishes, my mind went to Provencal bouillabaise with slight spicy rouille and grilled flatbread

Kenn at work in the field
Sandra's husband, Kenn Oldfield chairman, owner and co-founder of Tinhorn Creek, started his career in Alberta working the oilfields. Not much to do with wine, but it must have given him the passion to work with something sustainable and more picturesque then Northern Alberta tarsands. Kenn worked 14 years in the oil industry before turning his attention to wine and by 1994 had taken all the courses necessary for a Master's degree in viticulture from the University of California at Davis.

Sandra just happens to be originally from California and it was here that she got her first taste of the industry - working at the noted Rodeney Strong Vineyards in Sonoma. Sandra eventually came back from her new home in BC and finished her Master's of Enology from UC Davis as well. Together, husband and wife have a powerful amount of learning, but it is perhaps their tie with their land that sets them most apart.
Many champions of great winemaking will talk about the necessity of working with their land; of the harmonious co-existence that should take place between viticulturist and vineyard. Sandra and Kenn have done more then talk about it.
TLC, The Land Conservancy has recognized their work in creating a balanced ecosystem where everyone and everything is taken as having importance. Indigenous flora has been replanted in the vineyard to allow the natural system of the terroir to function as it should, and animal corridors have been created as well. Tinhorn Creek has even taken the effort to source 90% of their bottles from within 500 km (a short distance in Canadian terms) and of that, 35-50% is recycled glass.

2008 Pinot Noir
$20   *** Very Good to EXCELLENT Value ***

maturation:   old French oak 10 months, 24 months in bottle
  • nose:   clean; moderate+ intense and developing bouquet of dry dusty soil, layers of cherries, light herbaceousness and fungal-mushroomy notes... slightly spicy finish
  • palate:   clean, dry, moderate+ (red currant) acids, moderate+ to fully intense (chalky) tannins, moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick well the nose. Excellent balance and structure with medium+ length
  • PAIRINGS:   Pinot Noir can be said to have one true food partner, and to me that is boeuf bourguignon... I would pair mine with spicy parmesan crisps
2008 Merlot
$18   *** Very Good Value ***

AwardsGOLD - All Canadian Wine Championships, 2011
GOLD - World Value Wine Challenge, 2010
SILVER - NorthWest Wine Summit, 2011
SILVER - Grand Harvest Awards, 2011
SILVER - New World International Wine Competition, 2011
SILVER - West Coast Wine Competition, 2011
BRONZE - Intervin Wine Competition, 2011
BRONZE - Canadian Wine Awards, 2010
BRONZE - Pacific Rim International Wine Compeition, 2011
BRONZE - San Fransisco International Wine Competition, 2011
Honourable Mention - International Wine & Spirit Competition, 2011
TOP100 - Vancouver Magazine Wine Awards, 2011
maturation:   new to 3-year old French oak for 12 months
  • nose:   clean; moderate+ to fully intense and developing bouquet of cherries, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, red and black currants, dry dusty soil, slightly hot cinnamon-peppery finish
  • palate:   clean, dry, fully intense (red currant) acids, moderate+ (chalky) tannins, moderate+ to fully intense and developing flavors mimicking the nose with a restrained mushroom-fungal note. Good balance, Very good structure and long- length
  • PAIRINGS:   good merlot needs good steak~~ I would grill a simple striploin and finish with an herbed butter and a Chiliwack corn salsa

2007 Oldfield Series Merlot
$25   **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

AwardsGOLD - Grand Harvest Awards, 2011
SILVER - All Canadian Wine Competition
BRONZE - Canadian Wine Awards, 2010
BRONZE - Intervin Wine Competition, 2010
BRONZE - BC Wine Awards, 2010
varietals:   92% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Syrah
maturation:   8 months in 100% French oak (new to two year old), then 15 months in bottle
  • nose:   clean; fully intense and developing bouquet of red and black cherries, strawberry compote, red and black currants, black roses, strong terroir
  • palate:   clean, dry, moderate+ intense (red and black currant) acids, moderate+ (very well integrated chalky) tannins, moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose with the finish of old leather and light tobacco. Excellent balance and structure with long length
  • PAIRINGS:   I said that a good merlot needs a good steak, and thus greatness deserves greatness: spend the money and buy the best ribeye or prime-rib you can... free-range, local, organic, Kobe if you can find it... then grill it with a hint of olive oil and sea-salt. That's it... maybe a piece of parsley for garnish **grin**
Tinhorn vines in autumn
I certainly do believe that supporting local industry is important for sustainable business to take place. That being said, I don't believe in supporting local just for the sake of supporting local. Local businesses, to me, need to provide a commodity that is competitive on a global level. Tinhorn Creek is doing that, and doing it in an environmental responsible manner. Tinhorn Creek has my business.

As always, I look forward to your questions and comments.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Sunday, March 27, 2011

Las Perdices Cabernet Sauvignon, Lujan de Cuyo DOC, Argentina

There was once a joke in the wine industry that "It is the duty of all wines to be: red".

   Being a red wine drinker, I certainly have felt like that from time to time, but I am more inclined to follow the new adage that: "It is the duty of all wine to express terroir". Terroir: that inexplicably French term meaning the soil of a specific region, the wind, the quality of sunlight, the very energy of the people and how all of that translates into flavor of the grape.

   It is the duty of all wine to express where they are from; the land from whence it is grown, the tang of seasalt on the wind as it brushes the vineyards, the soft blanket of sunlight holding the grapes as they work their magic and transform from acidic berries to lush flavor bombs. It is the duty of wine to tell a tale of the people who worked the vineyards and toiled through the fermentation and maturation process. It's alot to ask from a bottle of wine, but is it too much to ask?

   In the early 1950's, Juan Munoz Lopez left Spain to begin a new life in Argentina. As I've said many times before (and will no doubt say many times again) I have nothing but the utmost respect for anyone who forges out on their own and begins their own something. Build a winery, open a car-repair shop, start a cupcake business - I think you are absolutely brave.

   I imagine it must have been difficult for Juan leaving friends and family and moving to the other side of the world. He must have felt quite alone as he walked through the fields of his new vineyard, his new life, and was trying to decide whether or not he had made "the right move". When along comes a partridge...

   Sounds like the opening line of a joke right? But no, seriously, Juan was walking the vineyards and was genuinely surprised by the number of wild partridges on his property. He asked his neighbours and they said that the partridges had always been there, and so the wild birds became constant companions on Juan's walks through the vineyards. It's easy to understand, then, how the vineyard became "Las Perdices" (The Partridges) rather then Domaine Juan Lopez... after all, hadn't the partridges been there first?


equipment at Las Perdices

   Juan's two sons now run the winery, and are developing a portfolio with international standing and respect. They have developed their skills and infrastructure to be able to allow the nuances of the grape to show through - even though their production has now reached a capacity of 900,000 Litres. They still use manual labor to pick the grapes, the grapes go through a sorting process not once, but twice, and the winery has invested in French and American oak barrels of the highest quality.


   It says alot, about this family's beliefs in quality above quantity, and striving every day to allow their wines to express themselves as completely as possible.

Las Perdices 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(the town of) Agrelo, Lujan de Cuyo DOC, Mendoza, Argentina
14.5% ABV, $18 CAD  
90+ points, **Good Value**

ALTITUDE         1,030 meters above sea level
SOIL                    Alluvial origin, loam-lime, medium depth, supported by a layer of gravel.
MATURATION   aged for 6 months in French and American oak (new and used)
  • visual:   clean; deep plum-garnet core with slight cherry rim (little brick)
  • nose:   clean; moderate+ intense youthful aromas of red raspberries, red cherries, old leather, light vanilla, rich floral notes, black pepper on the end
  • palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (red currant) acids, moderate+ (slightly chalky and grippy) tannins, moderate+ alcohol, moderate body, moderately intense and youthful flavors of red raspberries and cherries, red currants, old leather, light notes of rich earth, slightly blackcurrant (cassis) finish. Very good balance and structure, medium length on palate
  • conclusion:   Good value for the money, this wine will hold in the cellar to 2013 certainly. It's a well balanced wine but doesn't have alot of personal expression in it - still - much more then one would find for the same price from other regions
  • PAIRINGS:   Good Cab-Sauv calls for good beef - try this with your roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, pot roast with crispy parsnips, or even just a well made burger~!

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Calvet Reserve, Bordeaux, France

Every once-in-a-while, everyone needs some time with a good friend. Maybe you play some basketball, maybe you go to a movie, or maybe, like me, you sit with a good cigar and a bottle of wine. No matter the "indulgence" (shall we say) the intent is the same: to share time with the ones we love.

 Tonight I was lucky enough to do exactly that.

 Rocky Patel produces some exquisite cigars, of which the "The Edge: Square" would most definitely be one... I smoked this cigar for over 30 minutes and was only half-done, it was smooth and full of rich nuanced flavors, tightly rolled and a genuine pleasure. Rocky Patel produces no mediocre cigars, and I have always treated them as the special occasion they are (no matter how frequently I may smoke them).
 At the current rate of under $3/ cigar (http://www.holts.com/ has them on sale for a box of 50 for under $150), these are a pleasure you can enjoy any day of the week. I was lucky enough to have them included in a sampler pack sent to me, and will enjoy ordering them again.

Rocky Patel, The Edge "Square"
Country of Origin: Honduras
Strength: Full
Wrapper: Corojo, Maduro
Binder: Nicaraguan
Filler: Nicaraguan

 But the cigar was only part of the evening. Just as important was the wine, and tonight we shared a bottle of Calvet Reserve, 2009; Merlot- Cabernet Sauvignon

 One of the things I really appreciated about this wine was its approachability; easy to drink as soon as we opened the bottle, that doesn't always happen with Bordeaux wines. My theory is that this is mostly Merlot based, perhaps around 70 to 80%, because it is so supple and full or rich body (and drinking so easily so young). The Cab-Sauv is there for some structure and a bit more layering of the perfume. Smart way to make Bordeaux style wine if you want it to drink early.
 Of course, no one could ever think of Maison Calvet as being anything less then savvy wine people. The infamous Emile Paynaud (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%89mile_Peynaud) started with them at the tender age of 15 in 1927... Emile was not only a brilliant eonologist but was also decidedly full of common-sense, a sometimes rarity in the wine (or any other) industry.

  Emile brought many new ideas to winemaking (eonology): picking fruit when it was fully ripened, selective picking, accelerating the speed from picking grapes to actual fermentation, and what may have been the most controversial at the time - using malolactic fermentation as a technique and not viewing it as a mistake. These and many other reasons are why Decanter Magazine (http://www.decanter.com/) named him "Man of the Year" in 1990, and deservedly so.

2009 Calvet Reserve, Bordeaux, France
Merlot - Cabernet Sauvignon
13.5% ABV, $16 CAD  **Very Good Value**
  • visual:   clean; deep plum-garnet core with slight cherry rim
  • nose:   clean; moderate+ intense youthful aromas of cherry, blackberry and cassis, light hints of old leather, dark florals like irises, dark roses, some green peppercorn at the end
  • palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ (red currant) acids, moderate+ (dry chalky) tannins, moderate ABV, moderate+ body, moderate+ intense youthful flavors of red and black currants, red and black raspberries, light nuances of old leather, some dark florals and light peppercorn at the end of the palate. Good balance and structure, short to medium length.
  • conclusion:   Well thought out and executed value wine. This doesn't express much of Bordeaux, but is imminently drinkable for $16 which can't be said for alot of wine in that price-range. Drink now or hold for up to 18 months, will not improve with aging
  • PAIRINGS: Classic Steak Tartare; the bit of Cab-Sauv wants some beef flavors to marry against, but the soft Merlot doesn't want too intense flavors. The moderate acids will love a touch of fat, and because it's an easy drinking wine its a good way to start a meal rather then use during main course. Want it for a simple dinner? Pasta bolognese - or as I'm doing tomorrow, some rich and robust lazagna!
As always, I welcome and value your comments.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!