Vista D'Oro "D'Oro" with roast pineapple

http://www.vistadoro.com/

Everyone deserves a little something sweet…

As a chef with a conscience, I endeavor to cook as seasonally as possible: a lot of rutabaga and parsnip in the winter – a lot of strawberries and fresh tomatoes in the summer. That being said, every once in a while, we all deserve something special~!

And so when I found out that we had family coming to dinner a few days ago, off I went to the local stores to see what was bright, fresh and exciting. Huge pineapple on sale? Brilliant! I knew right away that a curry-fest was in order and, because I hail from Irish lineage, I also knew that I could get away with deviating from the normal “butter chicken”.

Well the meal was a success (*curry recipe to follow in another article) but dessert was the thing that really stopped conversation and got the table down to some serious eating! And looking at the photo now, I can remember how it even tasted better than it looks. Seriously.

But you know me, I simply can’t conceive of creating a beautiful meal without a beautiful beverage to compliment. And instinctively I wanted something sublime to finish the meal: a dessert wine that was going to have as much impact on the palate as this dessert has on the eyes. There was one wine that sprang to mind immediately: the Vista D’oro (eponymous) “D’oro”: a fortified walnut wine from Patrick and Lee Murphy.

Patrick amongst the vines

When I was out to visit Patrick last summer we had the better part of a lazy afternoon to walk the fields, chew the fat, and reminisce. We’ve known each other for several years and so it is with a certain pride that I listened as he explained the growth in sales... Patrick and Lee are bastions of quality in a wine-region (Langley) that even within BC is “snubbed” a little. Outside of BC? Outside of Canada? Unknown and certainly unrecognized.

But the first time I tried the wines of Vista D’Oro I knew that there was something special here: contemporary Pinot Noir, lush dessert wine, and now even branching into Sherry! It was the “D’Oro” though that I remembered for years after that first tasting. I remembered because it was the first time my wife went to a tasting with me and told me *(husbands: you know what I mean) that “we were buying it”.

It was a bit over $50 at the time. More money than I think my wife had ever spent on a half-bottle of wine. We kept that bottle far longer than I wanted to; always putting it back on the shelf for “a special occasion”. And there I was just a few months ago, walking with Patrick as he told me that all of his customers were doing exactly the same thing: saving the bottles rather than drinking them. This meant slow sales and the Murphys needed a solution.

Solution? Drop the price: from $50+ to under $40; and listed in the BC government stores as well, which meant that anyone anywhere in BC could find it or get it. And whilst $35 still isn’t an inexpensive treat after dinner, it is reasonable enough that clients started drinking the wine rather than just shelve it for when the relatives come calling. More people drinking the wine meant more people wanted to drink the wine! Result? Vista D’Oro is finally starting to bask in the glow of well-earned admiration from paying customers.

Still not convinced? When you stop by for a visit, make sure you ask about Patrick’s tomatoes (there is a waiting list of A-list Vancouver chefs) or the stunning preserves which you can enjoy on the deck of the tasting room.

THE WINE

Vista D’Oro “D’Oro”

91+ points, Excellent Value

Marechal Foch, Merlot and Cabernet Franc infused with estate walnuts, fortified with 100% pure, gluten-free, BC grape spirit

. In the glass this appears to be another quality example of fortified wine from Portugal. Then I remind myself that it is, in fact, from Langley, BC. The aromas offer stewed plum, cherry compote, dried savory herbs and warm/dusty earth… the only give-away is the trademark Vista D’Oro musky perfume in the background; like walking through an Arabic coffee shop and smelling the hookah-spice from the night before. The sweet palate is classic port-styled as well, with many of the aromas being mimicked perfectly (always a sign of professional quality) as well as a distinct note of fresh currant bread and finishing with a dab of spicy pepper. Absolutely excellent balance, structure and concentration; I enjoy the fact that, though a dessert wine, this is medium bodied and doesn’t weigh too heavily on the palate. Tastes like more!

THE FOOD

Grilling pineapple is nothing new, but the addition of a hint of vinegar brings the entire dish into balance. I love sweets, but sweet upon sweet just dulls the taste buds. Try this new approach, this healthy approach, and discover a quick and (relatively) easy dessert that wows!

RECIPE (4 portions)

1 medium to large pineapple, skin-off

2 fl oz apple cider vinegar

4 Tbsp brown sugar

2 Tbsp  rough chopped almonds or pecans (optional)

2 cups   Greek yoghurt

1 cup     fresh berry sauce

2 Tbsp   toasted coconut

STEPS

. cut large circle slabs out of the pineapple, about 1” thick

. remove the inner core; I use a shot-glass with a cloth over-top and it works perfectly

. warm the vinegar and brown sugar together just until the sugar dissolves

. put the pineapple slabs on a baking sheet, brush the tops with the sugar solution until all four pieces are thoroughly coated *(optional: top with rough chopped nuts)

. turn the oven broiler to high. Broil minimum 5 minutes or until the sugar is brown and caramelized

. being very careful because nothing burns worse than caramelized sugar: remove the pineapple from the oven and plate

. fill centre core with Greek yoghurt. Top with berry sauce and toasted coconut

Bon Appetit~!

So enjoy your meal with great wine and family or friends. Treat yourself, spoil someone else, and above all: savour the moment~! Many thanks to Patrick and Lee Murphy at Vista D’Oro for being so generous with their time. http://www.vistadoro.com/

As always, I look forward to your thoughts, comments and questions. Here, or:

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @ www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

Ferreira 1991 LBV Porto (Port)

http://eng.sograpevinhos.eu

Legacy.

Every parent, from the moment they set eyes on their first child, yearns to leave a legacy. I don’t imagine that history would show anything else and I don’t imagine that the future will either. No, when I look at my daughter, I too feel the pull; the tug at my heart to create something that will stand-up to time.

Dona Antonia Ferreira did just that. In the 1800′s, in a time when women weren’t allowed to vote and the “Rule of Thumb” meant a man could beat his wife with a stick as long as it wasn’t wider then his thumb (that’s a fact), this brave soul bucked traditional, reversed roles, and took the reins of her family business. She had been left a widow at age 33, had a young daughter to look in the eyes, and had a legacy already of four generations of family owned, family run wine in the Duoro region of Portugal.

Antonia took that legacy on a journey that has lasted centuries and shows every intention of lasting centuries more.

She built roads, cared for the workers, expanded vineyards, fought the dreaded phylloxera and traveled throughout Europe to find ways to save her crops. In short, Antonia lived for more then just herself. She came from money but her father had squandered much of the family fortune by the time Antonia took control of what became one of the most influential port houses in the world.

So she rebuilt it. To what extent?

Dona Antonia’s daughter, Maria, eventually became the  Countess de Azambuja. Amazing for a woman who could legally be beaten by her husband and had only the shakiest of legal principles to own her family business rather then see it go to an uncle or male cousin.

And the wine? As always my friends, the proof is in the glass:

1991 LBV

91+ points

• visual:   clear; full intense garnet core, slight cherry rim
• nose:   clean; medium+ to fully intense developing aromas of dried blueberry, stewed blackberries, fresh black raspberries and Saksatoons, woodsy tones, savory herbs and tomato leaf, dark tea
• palate:   clean; sweet, medium+ crisp strawberry acid, medium+ chalky/chewy tannin, medium+ to full bodied, medium+ alcohol (20.5% ABV), fully intense developing flavors that are perfectly in-line with the aromas; bright red and black berry acids hit the palate full-speed and are followed by a plethora of herbaceous/floral tones… well-integrated oak follows with some dark cocoa notes. Very good balance, excellent structure and medium+ to long length; keeps developing up to 20 seconds
• conclusion:   a joy to drink now, but can be cellared for decades. Enjoy 2013-2023++
• FOOD PAIRING:   the high sugar level in this fortified wine cry out for balance! Consider then Roquefort infused croque-en-bouche with almond caramel, edible orchid garnish…. the savory tones of the cheese are a tried-and-true counterpart to Port’s naturally heavy fruit-induced sugar rush

Legacy.

Dona Antonia couldn’t have known how far her quest to ensure her daughter’s prosperity would take her family brand. The name Ferreira is synonymous with unwavering quality and brilliant value. The new head of the winemaking team, Luis Sottomayor, took up the mantle of command in 2003 and has since been nominated as the best winemaker in Portugal twice.

In December 2013, Ferreira port was also voted by Wine Spectator into the prestigious TOP 100 list for the year as well as receiving the highest scores per category for several of its fortified wines.

And what does all of this mean for you?

Value. Plain and simple. Here is a brilliant quality LBV (Late Bottle Vintage) which is considered to be inferior quality to a recognized Vintage Port. And yet, it has aged gracefully for 20 years and could have lived for many more had I the patience. It is not every port-house that can boast the same skill… under promise, over deliver – the creed of great business people the world over and obviously an unspoken mantra in the halls and on the slopes of Ferreira Porto.

As always, I look forward to your thoughts, comments and questions. Here, or:

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @ www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

Fonseca Terra Prima Porto

Someone recently asked me what the real difference between winemaking and organic winemaking is. In simplest terms, all farmers need to fertilize their crops; whether it be grapes or corn.... organic farmers won't use artificial fertilizers, they use natural fertilizers (and preferably produced on or very close to their own farm).

   And what does this do for the wine we ask? Well nothing really. Nothing you say? But that's the point I say~! Artificial fertilizers use non-organic compounds, they rely on man-made chemistry to do the work of Mother Nature. These compounds leech into the soil, and thus into the food (grapes) and thus into the wine; changing  the wine.

   Organic practices also severely limit the amount of sulphites allowed, which is of vital importance for those of you who find red wines in particular give you a bit of skin flush, headache or a sore tummy. Yes, the sulphites are still there: it's a natural part of the winemaking process. But! But it is severely limited and you should be able to consume organic wines with limited reaction or no reaction at all.

   The patriarch of the port community, Fonseca Guimaraens (http://www.fonseca.pt/) is the first winery in the Douro region of Portugal to adopt certified organic practices for it's port production from start to finish. This includes the aguardente (similar to brandy) that is used to fortify the red wine. And why would House Fonseca make this bold move, years before anyone else in the region is ready to do so?

   Because they are innovators.

David Guimaraens

   (read a recent article of mine of port production if you wish to learn more about the Douro region: http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2012/01/porto-hutcheson-colheita-1999.html ) 

   Even though Fonseca Guimaraens has been in continuous operation since 1822, 6th generation family winemaker David has launched into the unknown not just with organic principles, but also through technology. Fonseca recently showcased their newest addition to the staff, a device of their own invention: a piston-paddle vat known as "Port-Toes". It has been created with the purpose of more efficient temperature control  during fermentation thus allowing for a gentler touch with greater results.

   And the results? As always my friends... in the glass.

Fonseca Porto Terra Prima n/v

$30 http://www.bcliquorstores.com/  89 points

• 
  visual:   clear; fully intense inky purple core with slight cherry rim, no bricking
• nose:   clean; moderate+ to fully intense and developing aromas of ripe red cherries, succulent plums, blackberries, dark chocolate and warm earth
• palate:  clean; sweet, fully intense (red and black cherry) acids, moderate+ (well integrated and soft) tannins, moderate+ body, moderate+ABV(20%), fully intense and youthful flavors relying heavily on fresh red berries and light floral notes to make a heavy impact. Moderate structure and very good to excellent balance with only medium length
• conclusion:  the youth of the vines is apparent. Whilst there are rich flavors, they are somewhat monotonous, however the finesse of the structure leads me to believe that future vintages will rival some of the truly great ports of the world. Drink now, holds to 2017.
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   with wines of this sweetness, it's a bit of folly to pair with anything even close to the same sweetness. Consider a Savory dark chocolate torte with lemon whip cream and stewed plums

the "Port-Toes"

   And so a bit of a dichotomy; House Fonseca. Almost two centuries old, they utilize state of the art facilities and "ahead-of-the-curve" techniques in the vineyard to create purist flavors with sublime structure. I can only imagine that Manuel Pedro Guimaraens, the man who bought controlling interest in the  Fonseca & Monteiro Company in 1822 and started this port house which is all about family, is looking down and watching this new generation with pride.





                As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!   CHEERS~!!!

Rocky Patel "Decade" 10th anniversary

10 years in the business of making fine cigars... for some families that's a drop in the bucket, but everyone started somewhere. Rocky Patel started with a vision of uncompromising quality in 1993, and many industry people thought (or possibly wished) that he wouldn't make it to the 10-year mark.

     Fortunately for us, the consumers, they were wrong. Not only has Rocky Patel managed to continue making cigars in the manner they wanted, but they've broken some records for quality and created a loyal following around the world. I read on their website http://www.rockypatel.com/ that Rocky visited over 600 cities in 750 days... madly passionate about his business? Either that or he's dying to reach a new level of frequent-flyer-miles.

     So there he is, Rocky has reached the decade mark in his business: does he rest on his laurels and enjoy some well-deserved rest? Why no sir-ee, he creates a celebratory brand, Decade 10th Anniversary, which proceeds to peak at a new high for quality scoring by http://www.cigaraficionado.com/ of 95 points for the Torpedo. 95 points is one of the highest ratings for any cigar. Ever.

     I love a good cigar as much as any man, more then some I suppose, and yet I can't help but be filled with a touch of dread now. What can Rocky Patel possibly do for an encore at 20 years? I'm just joking of course, we all know that even now - Rocky is working through the night somewhere trying to figure out how to earn one more point... one more loyal follower on his quest for relentless quality. One more loyal customer.

     And that, dear friends, is how great businesses are made.

Rocky Patel "Decade" 10th Anniversary

$10 USD, $35+ CAD   **BUY THIS NOW**

Torpedo: 6.5*52

wrapper:   Sumatra

filler:         secret

binder:      secret

• visual:   smooth and sleek; a very tight roll with no imperfections, slightly glossy, burned evenly right down to the last 1" with a thick white ash that held firm
• nose:   moderate+ to fully intense and developed; rich dark coffee, dark cocoa, cedar notes, black pepper came in strong again at the half-way point but was creamy and balanced. Very similar notes to the Velvet Edition, just more developed and better balance
• palate:   almost exactly the same as the nose, with the addition of a slight jalapeno spiciness in addition to black peppercorn; I would add that there was never a "hot" sensation - brilliant balance and construction
• conclusion:   Brilliant value for the money, this is without a doubt one of the best cigars I've ever smoked. I will smoke this again, and share with only the best of my friends
• PAIRING:   Madiera... an excellent fortified wine coming from Portugal, or Marsala coming from Sicily. Rich nuanced dried fruit flavors will play off the coffee notes, the extended sugar will balance the black peppercorn and slight jalapeno on the palate. Both also run about 20% ABV and will not aggravate the spicy qualities as a 40% spirit most definitely will (and possibly throw it out of balance)

     Rocky Patel. A man and a company with vision. My only serious question is succession: all great companies are designed so that if the leader steps down, the quality will stay the same. Who is being groomed at Rocky Patel so that Rocky can start to enjoy his well-earned rewards?

Rocky Patel enjoying life



     As always, I welcome your comments.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!