Grilled Ribeye meets CabSauv

The passion at Hopcott’s meats ( http://www.hopcottmeats.ca/ ) is nothing short of inspirational: this is what ribeye steak is supposed to be! And yet I hear time and time again from people that $15 on a steak is “just silly” and spending an extra $1/lb for free range/antibiotic free ground beef is “wasting money”. Well I’m pretty sure that a lot of the reasons we should all be investing in local butchers is not getting out there and so I knew I had to write an article on:

“Why should you spend the money?“

You and I both know that some grocery store in your neighborhood is selling striploin steaks this week: 4 for $12 or something similar. Great deal right? Who doesn’t like getting more for less? But then there’s the crux: are you really getting more?

On the one hand you’ve got bargain steaks at your grocer: cheap, probably not trimmed very well but you and I can handle that… probably more gristle/sinew/tendon then we would like as well, but we’re willing to swallow that *(pun intended). But what about the nutritional value? When you consume grass-fed beef, you increase your:

• Better Saturated Fat Profile
• Better Polyunsaturated Fat Profile
• More Antioxidants

*(many thanks to http://www.scienceofnaturalhealth.com/grass-fed-beef-nutrition.html)

What is your family’s health worth?

I take a look at the world around me and it doesn’t take a scientist to tell me that fresh beef from my own town is going to be better for me then something frozen for 6 months, then thawed, from Uruguay or Texas. I like the fact that when I walk into Hopcott’s, I can shake hands with the people that raised the cattle that is going on my table. I let my daughter eat beef jerky and pepperoni. Why? Because I know the people that make it, fresh every week. No additives. No preservatives… like when I was a kid growing up on the Prairies.

And so when people ask me how I can pay $10 or more for a single steak I just shake my head. When was the last time you bought a steak at a restaurant?? You know you aren’t getting any decent steak for $10 anywhere and if you go upscale? Try Las Vegas my friends – $60 and $80 steaks are the norm there. Now go back to Hopcott’s and ask them how much ribeye you get for $80 and start smiling!

But how do I, a chef with over 25 years’ experience, cook a steak like this? There are some basic rules that I, and most quality chefs, follow.

1. let the meat come to room temperature before grilling; this allows the muscle to relax and creates a more tender steak

2. ensure your grill is HOT; you want to sear the outside of the steak as quickly as possible to keep those lovely juices inside the steak and not on the bottom of your grill. 500C minimum for searing

3. cook your steak less than you think you need to, then let it rest longer than you think it needs; never forget residual heat in the steak will continue to cook it… I bring mine just to medium-rare, rest for 5 to 10 minutes, then serve and they are usually just a shade under medium

Now when I was prepping for this article I actually starting second guessing myself and so asked my friend, Mike Lindsay, who is Hopcott’s head butcher his thoughts on the subject. This is a guy who has a profound respect for beef; hard not to when you actually visit the animals as they’re growing up and look them in the eyes. This was the man I needed to show me a new trick or two when it comes to the barbeque. His thoughts on grilling great ribeyes??

“A little olive oil, some salt… maybe a pinch of pepper. Maybe.”

Bravo my friend – couldn’t have said it any better myself. Oh sure, you can fancy it up by finishing the steak with a little compound butter *(infused) such as roasted garlic, French thyme or my favorite Boursin infused butter… damn, it’s better than hollandaise! But  when you’ve got great components, try letting them speak for themselves.

This dinner we had to celebrate the sunshine had virtually no seasonings at all: the steak is just olive oil/salt/pepper, the beets are au naturel, the potatoes just a hint of butter, the carrots a light fireweed honey glaze and the salad is just lemon and olive oil. All of this is from Hopcott’s, because you know they have a fantastic produce selection now as well, and all from within 30 miles or so of my house.  Such concentration of flavors! All that was left for me was to choose the wine and I had a couple of beauties I’ld been saving for just such an occasion: a bottle each of Argentinian and Napa Cab-Sauv. They complement the steak in different ways and are both excellent values in any market.

Tomero Cabernet Sauvignon, 2012

by Bodega VistAlba (http://blendsinc.com/tomero)

90+ points, Excellent Value

*MERITS 1-HOUR DECANT FOR BEST RESULTS

… young, this CabSauv is a babe in the woods and will seriously benefit from another 2-3 years in the cellar. That being said, it was a treat that I knew was going to pair brilliantly with grilled ribeye steak. The thing to remember with Argentinian Cabs, personally, is that they are truly designed to go with food, and this is a perfect example. Ultra-ripe dark currant, black raspberry and dark floral aromas swirl through the glass *(think irises and dark roses). When you take your first sip, razor sharp full acid seems to bite at your lips creating a brilliant frame for full, finely-textured tannin and a symbiotic balance for the richness of slightly fatty grilled meat. This is a classic interpretation of what Bordeaux’s (arguably) greatest varietal can do in the South American land of cowboys, steaks and bold wine. Drink now, or hold for a decade plus, this wine can be enjoyed 2014-2025.

Louis M Martini Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010

www.LouisMartini.com

91 points, Excellent Value

… I never expected this; that I would one day be singing the praises of a mega-producer like Martini. But I must give credit where it’s due and these professionals have crafted an incredibly reasonably priced introduction into “What Is Napa”. From the opening bouquet of warm blackberry/currant compote, wild scrub-brush on the hillside, savory herbs and graphite minerality every aspect to the wine quietly declares its craftsmanship. Medium+ dark raspberry acids are far too well balanced for the good of the consumer who, when testing the wine to judge its quality, quickly finds that he or she has savored half the bottle before dinner is even cooked and guests have arrived. Ultra fine tannin feel chalky, full of dimension, and needing to be chewed a little – making the prospect of grilled meat seem a necessity rather then indulgence. Make no mistake about it, this is one of the great values in California Cab today… full of life, feel free to cellar some if you must though it seems a shame as it’s truly come into it’s own. Enjoy 2014-2019+

Maybe you’re close enough to Pitt Meadows to stop off at Hopcott’s and say hello. They’re mighty friendly folks and you’ll be glad you did. But if you aren’t then maybe you’ll take a moment and Google “local butchers”… these small businesspeople are in the business of providing the very best quality for you that is possible. Not the cheapest food, the best food. And really, aren’t you and your family worth that?

 Many thanks to Hopcott’s meats for the fine victuals, to Patagonia Imports ( www.PatagoniaImports.com ) for the Tomero and to my friend Peter Marshall at Gallo Imports ( http://gallo.com/wine/Canada/Canada.html ) for the fine bottle of Martini Cab.

As always, I look forward to your thoughts, comments and questions. Here, or:

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @ www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

2014 Vancouver International Wine Festival: Trade Tasting

http://www.playhousewinefest.com/

There's a reason why the viticulture Illuminati descend on Vancouver at the end of February each and every year: pantheons whose names are carved on the modern history of wine. Mondavi, Antinori, Chapoutier, Perrin, Tattinger... the list goes on. And why? Why do these giants come to the far side of the globe, to a (relatively) small city with a very new wine market; historically predispositioned to drink beer rather then savor sparkling wine?

One important reason is the voracity of local wine professionals to grow, to learn, to absorb as much as possible from these families and businesses who count their experience not in years but in generations. 7000 tickets are sold each and every year for only two days of Trade Events which means that, for the principals from the wineries, this is an opportunity for them as well! The opportunity to sample their well-loved, hand-crafted, more-then-slightly-doted-on Reserves and Gran Reservas for a throng of informed consumers who (mostly) appreciate the hard work and dedication that went into creating them.

For the wineries, this is the chance to influence the influencers: to dazzle with the creamy mousse of Champagne, titillate with cheeky rose and gratify with gutsy Cab-Sauv. The Public Tasting will sell cases upon cases of wine, but the Trade Tasting sells containers of wine and can shift the very tide of the Industry for those willing to put their best foot forward.

And what of the insiders from BC and surroundings who flock to the events? If you haven't been able to make the time for this yet, then you've been missing out and there's no nicer way to say it. Winemakers, viticulturists, principals from the top wineries in the world here to pour for us but, more important, to answer our questions! What is the hidden value in Bordeaux? What's the next exciting project for Chateau Ste Michelle? How is Ray Signorello working in the vineyard to evolve the already iconic "Hope's Cuvee" Chardonnay? Over 175 wineries here this year and over 175 rare opportunities to speak one-on-one with these game-changers. Oh, and they all bring one private reserve just to pour for the Trade Tastings... as if we needed another incentive. 

I was absolutely stunned by the level of quality this year in all price-points and hope that you get the opportunity to taste them as well.

1. Chateau la Maroutine, white Bordeaux

90 points

http://www.liffordwine.com/on/brands/chateau-la-maroutine

What a beautiful wine and brilliant value too at around $20 CAD... "Summer in a glass" was how I first described it, and I still can't find a better way to summarize: rich, fully intense youthful aromas of ripe apricot compote, fresh grass and warm hay, an entire garden of white and yellow flowers. The bouquet is followed by a palate of crisp, clean minerality and approachable acids. Great balance, structure and concentration, this wine over-delivers. Worthy of note; Sandrine Darriet, eonologist/winemaker for the winery, is also a professor at the illustrious Universite de Bordeaux!

2. Chateau Ste. Michelle, sparkling Pinot Noir rose

90+ points

http://www.ste-michelle.com/

Clean, crisp, mineral-driven Pinot Noir with the blush of young raspberries and the savory hints of wild thyme growing in the garden... an utterly delightful way to start the day, this is such a perfect representation of what Washington is capable of. Pair this with some fresh WestCoast salmon and your tastebuds will thank-you! I love that this is a winery humble enough to ask for guidance from some of those "iconic" producers: Loosen and Antinori. And the result? A "String-of-Pearls" of plots throughout Washington producing true representation of the soil, the varietal and the winery. Terroir may be a French concept, but it's alive and well in America.

3. Signorello, "Hope's Cuvee" Chardonnay

92+/93 points

http://signorelloestate.com/

Not the first time that I've mentioned this producer from Napa Valley ( http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2013/05/signorello-portfolio-tasting-2013.html ), nor the last as evidenced by the current vintage of their reserve Chardonnay. Consistently excellent and over-delivering quality, Ray Signorello drives that value of terroir in his vineyard. The site for the "Hope's Cuvee" is, in his opinion, one of the best plots on the entire property. Signorello leaves the work of crafting this wine to the vines themselves and remains out of the picture as much s possible: very low yields (2 tons/HA), wild yeast fermentation, no cold stabilization, 16 months in barrel all go towards creating a living testament from  a son to the memory of his mother.

4. Tenuta Argentiera

Bolgheri Superiore

91+ points

www.argentiera.eu

A new classic: this wine was to me utterly Bordeaux. A traditional Left-Bank blending of Cab-Sauv, Merlot and Cab-Franc it sings with aromas of fresh red raspberries, black currants, hints of graphite and the warmth of wood... gentle sous-bois undergrowth tones round it out. The palate is crisp, clean and in the words of a mentor "Tastes like more" meaning that there is no palate-fatigue with this wine. Great balance and structure I would never have guessed it to be Italian (not meant as derogatory). I asked Jeanette Servidio the Sales and Marketing Director why a Tenuta in Livorno, Italy would be crafting a Cab-blend, gorgeous as it is. Her response: "why make mediocre Sangiovese when we can make World-Class Bordeaux??" It turns out that when the humble owners took possession of the property, neighbors suggested something along the lines of "Hey - those guys down the road making Sassicaia have done a good job with Cabernet... you should try too!" And, they listened... calcareous soil with lots of limestone makes their site a perfect match and, after tasting it, how could anyone argue?

5. Santa Rita "Casa Real"

Bordeaux styled blend

93 points

www.santarita.com

Cecilia Torres, winemaker for Santa Rita, has been the artisanal guiding force behind this signature wine since its inception in 1989. The vineyard in Alto Jahuel however, has been been doing it's work for much, much longer... the median age of the vines is around 85 years old and the sheer weight, concentration and complexity of the wine speaks to that legacy. In the glass it offeres rich, textured aromas of roast beef, wild sage, currant jelly and a pinch of Thai chili. The palate is full; dynamic yet approachable and oh-so-inviting with it's chewy yet fully integrated tannin. An absolute World-Class Cab, it offers fantastic value at just over $100 for if you've ever tried to purchase 1st Growth Bordeaux, $100 doesn't get you very far. A sophisticated vintage, this is marked by the coolness of the year and it's immense ability to continue developing in savvy-cellars for decades.

...

And the list goes on. "To see is to experience" as they say, but perhaps in this instance it should read "To taste". Every year the Vancouver International Wine Festival keeps growing, keeps attracting more winemakers, more chefs, more sommeliers and more great wine. The question is no longer why you should be here next year, only why shouldn't you?

My thanks to the @VanWineFest and Heth PR ( http://hethpr.com/ ) for access to the Trade Tasting room and for coordinating such a stellar event so close to home.

As always, I look forward to your thoughts, comments and questions. Here, or:

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

Right-Banks of the world: comparing St Emilion

When I started the #WineTastingCircle of Vancouver, it was with the aim of furthering my wine-education. I wanted the opportunity to taste wines with my colleagues in a private setting of cooperation and discovery... it was my Dad, really, who set me on this path when he told me "Don't save your special bottles of wine for special occasions, use them to create special occasions"

And so in the Summer of 2013 I held my first #WineTastingCircle with a total of 4 attendees. We compared the superlative vintage of 2000 Bordeaux with six different regions represented, with the goal of understanding not only how the vintage affected the areas, but the blends as well, and how well those iconic wines were aging. But in the back of my mind I always knew I wanted to take that concept one step further.

Right-Banks of the World: comparing St Emilion vs other regions making similar styled-blends. A bold idea I was told by colleagues, especially as we would be tasting the wines blind, but an educated palate would be able to decipher California from Bordeaux, Washington from Chile... right?

Well, that what I set out to learn and to make it a proper comparative I needed to make a level playing field.

CRITERIA

Varietals: Merlot, Merlot with Cab Franc, perhaps a hint of Cab-Sauv

Price-point: (BC dollars) $40-$80

Vintage: variable... as its not all from the same area - vintage isn't really a factor

Attendees: 10 sommeliers, wine-judges, journalists, importers and merchants. Total experience about a century in the industry and another century as non-professional wine lovers (wine-geeks in training?)

And of course I had my venue, the inimitable Uva Winebar wine cellar/private room ( http://www.uvawinebar.ca/ ). I must make mention of their genuine hospitality and professionalism, and my personal gratitude for their continued patronage of our quarterly event. Small wonder that the hospitality industry in Vancouver drops in at Uva on a regular basis... industry folks always know the best spots :)

And so you may be forgiven for thinking that at this point I had it all figured out: all the technical minutia of time and place, the wines, the people. What more could there be? My friends, what we really had to overcome - when we got to the room and started pouring the wines wrapped in paper, no hint of what lay beneath... what we had to challenge in those 4 minutes we were given per wine to dissect: to analyze with our eyes, our noses, our taste, was: our own prejudice.

For who could be more prejudiced about wine then wine-lovers, professionals or neophytes? We read the trade-papers, we listen to the experts, the winemakers, the critics. We are the ones who scan for changes in weather patterns. Why? So we better know whether to invest in the vintage or not: is this going to be the big one ? The stellar year that lurks in grand cellars for decades to come and savvy people buy now for a pittance and open decades from now to rounds of applause? Who could have more preconceptions about wine then the very people who are supposed to be immune?

But it's the nature of life: we get a little education and then we get an opinion, and Heaven help us when we get one of those! It was my very first wine-guru, the gifted DJ Kearney who taught that, whilst she was studying for the Master of Wine program (of which we have 3 in Canada) she was, after all, still just learning. A pantheon in the wine-industry who this Spring is a judge at the Argentina Wine Awards told us that she was basically the same as we students of the ISG Level 1. She was learning, growing, developing and hungry for more.

always respected Chateau Pipeau, St Emilion

I knew that I needed to bring that energy to the #WineTastingCircle and, in fact, my colleagues all brought the same fire in their bellies. We had veterans of 25+ years experience and novices only 2 or 3 years into the hallowed halls of professional wine critiquing. It was as wide an array as could be imagined for one table but we were all pulled by the same force which was: To Learn. We fulfilled that role judiciously.

St Emilion is considered by some to be the "heart" of the Right Bank of Bordeaux and has been producing wine for centuries. Soft, plush, fruit-driven Merlot; some with dynamic structure and concentration to last decades and be worthy of their stratospheric price-tags, some juicy little gems intended for fast consumption on lazy afternoons and chic Saturday night parties. Would we be able to tell which two of the ten wines assembled were from reputable, Grande Cru Classe chateau?

THE LIST

2005 Chateau Pipeau, St Emilion Grand Cru Classe  http://www.chateau-pipeau.fr/html/pipeau.html

2005 Jean-Faure, St Emilion Grand Cru Controlee   http://www.jeanfaure.com/

2003 Duckhorn, Napa Valley, California      http://www.duckhorn.com/

2003 Stags Leap, Napa Valley, California    http://www.cask23.com/

2008 Domaine de Chaberton "AC 50", BC, Canada     http://www.domainedechaberton.com/

2007 Painted Rock, Skaha Lake, Okanagan Valley DVA, BC   http://www.paintedrock.ca/

2011 Painted Rock, Skaha Lake, Okanagan Valley DVA, BC

2010 Tinhorn Creek "Oldfield Series", BC, Canada      http://www.tinhorn.com/

2011 Ghost Pines, 62% Sonoma County / 38% Napa Valley    http://www.ghostpines.com/

there was a 10th wine, sadly corked...

LESSON #1   Could we tell the Bordeaux?

utterly brilliant Jean-Faure, St Emilion, 92 points

No. Out of all of the professionals, and all the skilled palates, differing experiences, etc etc not one person could tell which wine came from Bordeaux. But beyond that, some wines were so similar that they could have passed for "twins" or two bottles from the same vintage and same winery thrown into the mix as a test.

2005 Jean-Faure, Grand Cru Classe St Emilion VS 2011 Tinhorn Creek reserve Merlot, Okanagan Valley DVA, BC

In the glass we could see that the Jean-Faure was older, but in all other respects these wines were identical. One member of the panel pointed out the similarities and so we all tried them side-by-side (myself I was inclined to disprove him) and damned it all but he was right! 10 people, 10 votes that the "little" winery from BC had produced a Merlot of such character, such concentration, such finesse that no one could tell it from the Bordeaux. But I knew the difference:

2005 Jean-Faure at auction in California approximately $40+ making it about $100+ in BC. 2010 Tinhorn "Oldfield Series" about $30 at the winery: one-third the price. That was the difference.

an elegant wine; complex, seductive

LESSON#2   Would the California wines be our top-scoring wines?

No. Easy to believe that New World palates would crave that "classic" (to some) California over-ripe fruit, but Parker-esque devotees we were not. Top-score went to a winery that is relatively unknown even in BC - but I need to qualify that. The highest scoring wine of the night was from Domaine de Chaberton which is in our farming belt in the Lower Mainland: Langley. Better known for their excellent value-for-money white wines, the reds from this winery have for the most part fallen off the radar of industry-insiders. I was fortunate enough to be gifted a bottle of this "AC50" which is made by the owner, about 125 cases per year. It is an Ode to everything that is brilliant in St Emilion style blending and reminded  me of Chateau La Gaffelierre, 1er Grand Cru Classe the very first time I tried it. Should you not be familiar with Gaffelierre, it is enough to understand that they have  incredible legacy in France and are owned by nobility.

Asides from the many differences such as vineyard age, pedigree, etc which are all just back-story, the big difference to me is that Chaberton AC50 runs about $50-$60 in BC whilst Gaffelierre runs over $150 if memory serves... once again, triple the price.

LESSON#3   Would the iconic wineries produce the highest scoring wines?

Once again, no. Whilst it's true that some of the more prestigious wineries crafted product that was impressive to all: deep, rich, concentrated wines with superb balance, structure and length on the palate it was in fact a bevvy of new producers who took or tied for first, second and third place.

I have long been a proponent of the notion that when one practices something for a considerable length of time, one gains skills. It's just a fact. The equation has always been explained to me as the "10,000 hour rule": anyone who practices a skill, any skill, for 10,000 hours will become a master at it... baseball, physics, agriculture. All skills follow the "10,000 hour" rule. And we as consumers believe that intrinsically! We cling to businesses with longevity because, instinctively, we believe that their quality of product or service must be superior. In the world of wine, that has long been a Belief.

But we must also be cognizant of the fact that we have entered a New Age of Wine. The entire industry has been turned upside-down in less then 20 years and virtually every rule that was etched in stone has been (successfully) broken. Wine is being produced in regions that no one thought possible, at altitudes considered unproductive, with varietals that had "no place being grown there". Really, when we consider the wine industry as a whole, who would have ever given credence before 1976 to the idea that the French would consider a Napa Valley Chardonnay more classical, more elegant, more "French" then France?

Clare gorging herself at Painted Rock

But that is the lay of the land today. Today it isn't just Bordeaux creating great Bordeaux, and we as educated consumers should be willing ( with due diligence) to open our eyes, our tastebuds and our wallets to the potential of these new ventures. St Emilion has a very special place in my heart and I will always cherish the producers there who have branded quality on their viticulture for centuries. But if there was one message that was hammered home to me time and time again in this tasting it was something my two-year old daughter taught me when last we visited Painted Rock vineyards on the bluffs above Lake Skaha.

It was a beautiful early Fall day; we got to the winery and Clare ran straight for the vineyard. She clambered over rocks and tramped through the rows until she found what she considered to be the perfect spot and then stopped to apply herself to the task of eating as many grapes as possible. It was brilliant! I see now, many months later, that she didn't stop to ask herself where the grapes were from: she tasted, she loved, she continued. We all of us have fallen prey to attractive packaging and weighty lineages, but just like my child (and a blind tasting) showed me:

It's what's inside that counts!

THE SCORES

*scores are my own and not representative of each individual member of the #WineTastingCircle, but do reflect the consensus 

unanimously voted the top wine of the evening

1st place

2008 Domaine de Chaberton "AC50"     93 points

...on the nose offers rich aromas of sous-bois or wild under-growth, tobacco leaf, fresh red currants/raspberries. The palate is awash in well-integrated fine tannin and lean/well-focused medium+ acid... still young in it's life, this wine has years for development and a decade plus in the cellar. Big concentration on the palate with the same musky/sandalwood edge and a kaleidoscope of fresh red berry/sour cherry flavors colored ever so slightly by a hint of young blackberry/huckleberry. Merits serious decanting or two runs through the aerator.

2nd place (TIE)

2007 Painted Rock Merlot                         92+ points

...Big, bold, beautiful! Fully intense aromas pouring from the glass: rich red and dark berries, a whole bouquet of flowers and gentle teasings of black peppercorn at the end... ultra-fresh palate with crisp, clean acid, silky-smooth tannin integrated thoroughly and an overall impression of seamlessness. Drinking brilliantly now, it will continue to evolve for years and will cellar for a decade with ease. Of note: most people at the table thought this to be top-tier California...

2003 Stags Leap Merlot                               92+ points

...beautifully intense and textured nose of warm winter spices, candied almonds, hints of pink peppercorn and dark flowers. Medium+ crisp acids with tons of life left and a generous fruit driven palate with complimentary tones of pencil shavings, sous-bois forest floor and wild herbs. Very well balanced, with good concentration, this Merlot will last for several years still but not develop further.

3rd place (TIE)

2005 Jean-Faure                                            92 points

...a classic: complex marriage between honeyed almond aromas and a bouquet of perfumed red and dark flowers mixing with fresh berries in the garden. Crisp, fresh, tastes like it's a new wine! I was so certain that this was only a few years old, I'm certain that there are years of development and a solid decade plus of cellaring for this exquisite wine. Fine, well-integrated tannin, medium+ concentration of bruised plum/red and black raspberry flavors but not quite as developed as the sublime aromas.

2010 Tinhorn Creek Merlot                      92 points

...so pretty! To my mind, this was what most people think of when they think "Merlot". Bright red berry aromas mixing with soft floral tones, a hint of warm earth and the lightest fresh herb tint. Ultra-crisp red berry acid, incredibly well-integrated tannin structure, the palate is a mirror of the nose (always an indication of quality to me). Great balance, structure and concentration. Beautiful for drinking now and can be held in the cellar for several years.

the slopes above Lake Skaha: brilliant Bordeaux from BC

As always, I look forward to your thoughts, comments and questions. Here, or:

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

Signorello portfolio tasting, 2013

evolutionfinewines.com

signorelloestates.com

I was at this year's Vancouver International Wine Festival, perusing the many lanes of wine from California, and one particular set of wines kept drawing me back time and time-again:

It was the wines of Ray Signorello and Signorello Estates.

Ray Signorello

I had the pleasure of speaking with Ray just a few weeks ago, after I had sat with his local importer *(Evolution Fine Wines) for a portfolio tasting. Ray not only keeps a home in Vancouver as well as Napa, but also travels extensively to promote his business. I appreciated, then, Ray making the time to discuss his passion.

I had been under the mis-perception that Ray was a native Vancouverite and so wondered quite innocently whether Ray had felt accepted by the Napa Valley community when his father purchased land for a vineyard in the mid 70's. Ray explained that though his family moved to Vancouver in the 60's, they're actually old-school California; emigrating there in 1904 from Italy, with serious roots in the areas surrounding San Francisco.

And then Ray clarified my notions of a wine-community in Napa Valley...  when his family purchased their current vineyard in '77, there were only about 100 or so odd winemakers in all of California. A far cry from the over 450 wineries in Napa Valley alone today! The community was small, and yes - tight-knit as one would imagine. But these were a people, this was a time, when sharing was part of common manners. The Signorellos were welcomed into the fold, and the Signorellos became active in the community.

If watching hockey and fighting archaic liquor laws is an unwritten aspect to being a winemaker in BC, then re-investing in the Napa Valley Vintner's Association and supporting a globally recognized American AVA is part-and-parcel of being one in this region. But there's a way to supporting that brand that Ray Signorello feels is appropriate;

Some newer wineries have adopted an almost "Disney-land like" atmosphere. Far be it for anyone to tell another business-person what is wrong (or right), Ray simply states how he wants to run his business. Signorello Estates is a winery that produces world-class products; enjoy the pairings with food in their restaurant... one of the first in a winery in the region. Ray explains how this is something the winery did not to increase profits, but to increase the customers enjoyment and understanding of the wines.

A sensible way to showcase their efforts, I still wish I could drink the wine while riding a Ferriswheel... :)

The first wine I tried was a Chardonnay that I've come back to time-and-time-again over the years. This wine sings with precision and is eloquent in its expression of region; it was a genuine privilege to taste it again and make notes. Made in honor of Ray's mother (Hope Signorello), I must believe that she was an extraordinary woman to inspire such persistence from her son (the accountants have asked Ray to rip out the vines as they are no longer fiscally viable... Ray has refused and I for one hope he continues making this wine for decades).

2010 Signorello Hope's Cuvee Chardonnay

$89.99 BC

$59.99 Alberta

92+ points

93 points The Wine Advocate

first vintage affected by Luc Morlet, consulting winemaker
no cold stabilization

wild yeast ferment

100 % malolactic fermentation in French oak (40% new)

10 months on the lees
16 months in barrel (twice the local average)

30 year old vines, harvested at night

530 cases produced

• visual:   clear; medium straw core with silver highlights
• nose:    clean; fully intense and youthful aromas of spice and apples, stonefruit ripening and warm straw
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ green/yellow apple acids, medium+ body, medium+ alcohol (14.6% ABV), fully intense and youthful flavors which mimick the nose; a brilliantly precise minerality is immediately apparent with young honey tones singing on the tastebuds and lemon balm/citrus to follow, light toffee, seasalt and oak tones. Excellent structure, balance and length
• conclusion:   a brilliant example of varietal, this is a truly world-class wine meriting time and attention. A joy to drink now, and a pleasure to cellar... Enjoy 2013-2018
• FOOD PAIRING:   though an obvious choice for rich seafood dishes (Newburg, coquilles St Jacques) or veal, this makes me want my favorite butter poached rabbit! Need a recipe, just ask.

We followed the world-class Chardonnay with a lengthy foray into the great grape of Napa Valley: Cabernet Sauvignon. Certainly many varietals grow well here including Syrah, Merlot, Petit Syrah, Petit Verdot and others, but in this AVA Cab-Sauv must be the undisputed king!

As Ray's family had now been on this land for over 35 years, I was curious to discover what had evolved in their understanding of the terroir. Much like the monks had learned in the valleys of Tuscany, centuries ago, the Signorellos are learning which clones do best on which slopes. They are learning how to decrease yields to increase results and create a more interesting wine. Indeed, Ray stipulated that one of the keys to learning the land was "Keeping an open mind... because this (winemaking) is a never ending cycle of learning".

2010 "Trim" Cabernet Sauvignon

89-90 points

$19.99 (SPEC) BC

$11.99 Alberta

83% Cab-Sauv, 9% Merlot, 8% Syrah

• visual:   clear; fully intense bruised garnet core, bright cherry rim
• nose:   clean; fully intense and youthful aromas of bright fresh cherry blossoms, winter spices (allspice, nutmeg), plums and raspberries with worn leather and light caramel tones in the background
• palate:   clean; dry, fully intense raspberry/red currant acid, medium silky tannin, medium+ body, medium alcohol (13.8% ABV), medium+ intense and youthful flavors much in-line with the nose; the bright berries flavors dominate the front palate with a solid yet graceful oak-driven finish. Very good balance and structure, medium+ length
• conclusion:   truly competitive in it's price-point and meant to be enjoyed now. Enjoy 2013-2017
• FOOD PAIRING: a young wine like this has enough muscle to handle some truly big flavors in food, consider carne asada with roasted corn salsa, pickled okra and watermelon salad

2010 "Edge" Cabernet Sauvignon

courtesy WineAlign.com

91 Points

$29.99 BC

$21 @Costco Alberta

*2012 Decanter Wine Awards commended medal recipient

86% Cab-Sauv, 9% Syrah, 5% Merlot

aged minimum 15 months in French and American oak

• visual:   clear; fully intense garnet core with bruised cherry rim
• nose:   clean; fully intense youthful aromas developing with dark floral notes, plums, red and black raspberries, spicy mineral undertones
• palate:   clean; dry, fully intense red and black raspberry acid, fully intense green and grippy tannin, medium+ body, medium+ alcohol (13.8%), medium+ to fully intense youthful flavors much like the nose with bright/fresh floral tones balanced by warm earth and wood-notes (sandalwood). Excellent balance, very good structure and long- length
• conclusion:   basic rule-of-thumb for me is "However long it spends in barrel, give it twice as long in bottle before consumption". This can be drunk now, but will evolve for several years... best 2015-2020+
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   This wine is starting to display a variety of flavor profiles and as such, I want to give some focus back to the wine. Consider a lamb bolognese with crispy prosciutto chips, steamed baby vegetables and roasted garlic-black olive ficelle (bread). The wine has the fullness of acid to enjoy a pairing with fatty lamb, the stewed flavors in the sauce will contrast the freshness of the wine, salty prosciutto plays off berry tones as does briney olive whilst roasted garlic marries with the earthy wood notes

By the time I got to this part of the tasting, I was starting to get a bit of a sense of region from the red wines. Not just technically proficient, here was wine that was starting to tell a story of it's land and to me, that was exciting. I asked Ray what it was that made his land, his terroir, unique.

One of Ray's favorite parcels of the vineyard is the south-east corner, on a rocky hillside that has 2 different exposures; south and east... here it's a little cooler then in other parts because of the way the wind caresses the slope. Here the grapes are allowed (by Mother Nature) a little more hang-time, lowering the base alcohol and creating more balance in the finished product. This is the slope that speaks to Ray, and Ray is listening carefully, to make the wine that wants to be made.

2010 "Fuse" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

93 Points

$39.99 BC

$24.99 Alberta

82% Cab-Sauv, 15% Syrah, 3% Merlot

4th vintage for this wine

all varietals aged separately in French and American barrel for 15 months

barrels are racked every 6 months

4,539 cases produced

• visual:   clear; fully intense garnet core with plum/cherry rim
• nose:   clean; fully intense and developing bouquet; a thinking man's wine - green pepper bursts on ripe, red fruit with a tenacious streak of exotic leather, tobacco and graphite filling the backdrop. Stunning.
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ currant acid, medium+ soft/chewy tannin, medium+ body, medium+ alcohol (13.8% ABV), medium+ to fully intense youthful yet developing flavors much like the nose; for all that this wine carries Syrah, in taste it approaches Right Bank Bordeaux in it's delivery - rich, complex, red and blue fruit driving earth tones with precise minerality guiding the way. Excellent balance, structure and length... just give it time!
• conclusion:   a wine just barely coming into it's own... almost a shame to drink it now. Almost! Will develop in bottle for years and most likely decades. Enjoy 2015-2025+
• FOOD PAIRING:   forgive me - no food pairing. This is a wine I want to savour with good friends, a fireplace and a quiet evening. If I must pair it with food, then let me think of this like a Frenchman; cotes du beouf with foie-gras stuffed morel mushrooms, parsnip pave, and a salad of endive-raddichio-Asiago to start...

Undeniably one of the highlights of the tasting for me! The wines that follow are truly world-class but, for me, to get this quality and at this price is rare. This is an incredibly articulate wine, capable of being poured beside many many bottles far more expensive... have a rich uncle and want to WOW him? Pour him a glass of this. He'll thank you for it, and so will your wallet!

But tasting this wine made me think of the many legends in California that Ray and his father must have known and gotten to know in those early days - those cowboy days when Montelena was kicking ass and taking names in France. I asked Ray who his inspirations were and Ray responded with a litany almost too fast and furious to keep up with:

• the great Robert Mondavi; his passion for the industry and especially for Napa
• Harlan estates; for their unyielding pursuit of quality and dedication to excellence in single vision estates
• Guigal; for making truly momentous wines
• Romanee Conti; for making Romanee Conti a noun/verb/adverb/adjective in winemaking greatness
• Giacomo Conterno; for bringing global recognition and respect to the Piedmonte wine and it's aging potential

2009 Signorello Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

95+ points

95 points Wine Enthusiast

$97.99 BC

$63.99 Alberta

88% Cab-Sauv, 12% Cabernet Franc

100% Estate fruit

vines planted 1990

production 381 cases

• visual:   clear; deep garnet core with slightest cherry rim
• nose:   clean; fully+ intense youthful bouquet of spicy plum compote, wood tones, aged leather, savory underbrush (sous-bois to the French)
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ black raspberry acid, fully intense grippy/chewy tannin, medium+ body, medium alcohol (14.7% ABV), fully intense and youthful favors mimicking the nose starting with dark red berries and leather notes, to ultra dark cocoa (think 87%) and an ultra-precise graphite backbone. And it keeps evolving evolving evolving on the palate! Excellent balance, World-class structure, World-class length
• conclusion:   This stunning wine is already accessible, but in a "young-Barolo" manner; my friends in Piedmont don't drink Barolo (in general) before they are 10-15 years old... Drink 2013-2030+, in my humble opinion will start to peak around 2018-2020
• FOOD PAIRING:   consider: coffee crusted beef carpaccio on toasted rye, boursin creme fraiche, fresh thyme infused poached apricot... for me, with the manner in which this wine is displaying it's strengths, I would want to play off of the cocoa notes and the savoury tones. Coffee loves cocoa and the beef is a given, the toasted rye gives nutty quality not unlike some of the woodsy tones in the wine, the boursin is a bit bitter and creamy - playing well with the tighter berry flavors and finally the herb infused stonefruit will draw out the herb/sous-bois from the wine, making it feel a bit more Old World

By this time, I knew that I was in the presence of remarkable winemaking. And I knew that there would be young winemakers out there wondering "How do I ever get to this level?" Well... never one to mince words, I asked Ray what his advice would be to someone just starting out.

"It's important to know other wines - tasting other people's work and drawing from that experience." Ray answered, "then carve out your own style and stick to it! Be impassioned by it! Great wine is as much about the story behind the wine as it is about what's in the glass (or bottle)."

I'm pretty sure I know what Ray means by that - it's much the same advice my grandfather gave me when I said I wanted to be a writer... but Ray wasn't done yet! "Having your own vines - " he continued, "- that's the ultimate goal! That's what's going to give your wine - you new winemakers out there - that's what gives your wines true longevity."

2008 "Padrone" Napa Valley Estate Blend

96 points

93+ points Robert Parker

89% Cab-Sauv, 11% Merlot

100% Estate

yield a meagre 1.3 tons/acre

production 430 *6 bottle cases

native yeast fermentation

extended maceration (25 days)

maturation 20 months in 70% new Troncais, Nevers and Alliers oak

non-filtered

• visual:   clear; fully intense garnet core with slightly brickish cherry rim
• nose:   clean; fully intense developing bouquet of warm Winter spices, dark floral tones, eucalyptus, orange peel, ultra premium cigar tobacco (Romeo and Julietta anyone?), nuanced sous-bois abounds with a finish of ripening dark berries
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ to fully intense black raspberry and black currant acid, fully intense chewy/silty tannin (a dichotomy I know - but it's what I got), medium+ body, medium+ alcohol (14.7% ABV), fully intense youthful flavoring perfectly aligned with the aromas; driven by crisp red and black berry tones and followed-through by an ultra-precise graphite minerality and generous oaky shoulders/savory herbs. World-class balance, structure and length!
• conclusion:   after tasting thousands of wines, and well over 100 California Cabs, I believe this is the highest score I have ever given a Californian wine; structure/balance/concentration, this wine has it all. Just an infant at present, this will evolve gracefully for decades. Enjoy 2018-2040 and possibly beyond
• FOOD PAIRING:   simple. Keep your food with this wine simple - to allow the wine to be the star. Consider sous-vide beef tenderloin forestierre (wild mushroom ragout), Swiss-styled potato rosti seared in duck fat, steamed garden carrots, roast celery and braised Belgian endive. Now I know I said keep it simple, but that doesn't have to mean a grilled cheese sandwich! All of the flavors on this plate are singular and intended to articulate that one flavor to the fullest potential. They also emphasize each other and the wine through contrast; contrasting texture, contrasting flavors  contrasting aromas... to sip the wine then taste a fresh carrot, another sip and some mushroom ragout, yet another sip and then the braised endive; each component bringing out different notes from the wine. The sous-vide beef is critical to the dish's success! A gentle cut like tenderloin, with very low fat, needs gentle cooking to preserve moisture - the sous-vide will give a texture like butter and enhance the beef flavors, not masking behind grilled flavors.

And then it was over. Like one of those dreams when you wake up and still see it playing in your mind... I could still taste the wine hours/days after the tasting. And here I was talking with a world-class winemaker who, I don't think, envisions himself as such. In fact, Ray even made a joke about the 100-point system and the bias that goes along with it:

"A man walks into a wineshop and the owner is there pouring samples. The man tastes the sample : bitter, sharp, aggressive, unbalanced...."

"The owner smiles, but Robert Parker gave it 95 points!"

"yeah - I'll take a case of it."

And that's the world of wine (or so it seems some days). Ray followed up on the joke by saying that people "need to trust their own palates more, and wine-writers less". Well, I've been saying much the same for years now and agree whole-heartedly.

I tried one last time to explain to Ray what his wines meant to me, now that I'ld had the opportunity to taste them in such a fantastic manner. Ray was quick to deflect the praise back to his entire team (the mark of a great leader) and I was reminded of a quote on the Signorello website:

"Winemaking isn't just what we do, it's who we are."

the patio at Signorello Estates

I look forward to your thoughts as you taste these wines for yourself...

let me know on Twitter @AStudentofWine

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!