New Year's Eve 2014: a time for raclette!

New Year's Eve: a time for celebration and reflection.

Did we accomplish everything we set out to this year? Did we mend the broken fences in our relationships? Did we set the bar a little (or a lot) higher in our chosen work? Were we dutiful and present with our loved ones? And what seemingly impossible task will we set for the next 12 months?

As a culture it seems as though we are at odds with our own desires so much of the time and on New Year's no less so than any other. We cherish the coming of a "New Day"; a chance to begin fresh... clean slate and all that. And, yet, we often fail at seizing this very opportunity when it presents itself three times a day.

I speak of the family meal; that red-headed step child of modern North American culture. We eschew the ideologies of the 50's and all that they stood for: the blind pursuit of accumulating material goods, of always needing to find a faster way to do things, of always wanting NEW NEW NEW! And yet, for many families here, the 1950's were a time that celebrated - even venerated - the family meal.

This "Big-Band" generation of adults could remember - vividly - that only a few years earlier the world had been engulfed in a war that threatened to consume humanity. Soldiers were separated from wives and children for years, mothers were for the first time (for many) working full-time jobs and forced to leave their children for most of their week. Years of this were endured: the family unit has rarely suffered such long-term torture.

And then - Peace. And with it came the reunion of husband with wife, father with child, wife with family. And the dinner table? In those eyes dinner wasn't a chore (mostly) - it was a gift, to be treasured. This was the time that North Americans began reaching for greater heights with their family time: barbeques became chic rather than rustic and the thought of everyone not convening around the table at 6 pm? Incredulous.

No matter what your definition of family is, we all suffer from a lack of time - proper time - with those we hold most dear. It's no surprise that the fastest growing area of food-sales in North America today is the ready-to-eat meal followed closely by take-out/quick-service. The rate at which we eat a meal in our car is growing faster whilst the rate at which we sit with loved ones and carpe diem is withering.

It was in the 1950's that the Swiss-American chef Konrad Egli popularized the dish fondue and, as with many "new" things of the time, fondue-mania swept the land. Bravo I say! For what creates better ambiance, a better setting, for conversation than the fondue or, in this case, raclette.

raclette

In essence, take some hard cheese and melt it under a small heat-lamp until it's soft enough to spread like butter and smear it on fresh bread or, more traditionally, slices of potato with shaved cured meat and some sour pickles/pickled onions on the side. Wash it all down with a few bottles of Riesling or Pinot Gris and you have the dish that has captivated central Europe since the 1200's and probably much further back.

But wait! I hear you claim... Watch cheese melt? Isn't that the culinary equivalent to watching paint dry?!

True my friends! This is why we don't raclette alone (note to my Editor: I've just used a noun as a verb - this is artistic licence not cheese-induced dementia). Whether we're "racletting" or "doing-the-fondue" we always do this as a team-activity: the joy is in the moments between the food as much as the food itself. For, really, what else is there to do when cheese is bubbling happily in front of you, a plate of cold-cuts and pickles to nibble on and full glasses of vino all around - what else is there but to eat, drink and be merry?!

My family discovered this New Year's event quite by accident only last year and, we enjoyed ourselves so much, we decided immediately that it would become tradition. We invite people we haven't seen enough of, buy far too much dairy product then can be good for a body, slake our thirst with more wine then is prudent and smile, laugh, joke and carry-on into the wee hours. That's when the dark-chocolate-fondue comes out and the belts get loosened a notch or three. It's a bloody good time had by all.

And so whether you find yourself seeking a kitschy last-minute plan for food on New Year's Eve, or needing an excuse to pull old friends 'round your table for a long-awaited night of mild gluttony and excessive cheeriness, perhaps this is the thing for you. The wines we chose for our evening were from wineries that made my list of Top Wines 2014 and are, in my opinion, some of the best value-for-money that can be found today in any market. Each winery has excellent shipping options and should be exercised if you love finding stunning wine at a fraction of its true value.

Enjoy the slideshow and HAPPY NEW YEAR!

http://www.cinco.ly/~AYCATPsGQRce

Cipes Blanc-de-Noirs 2008

$35 CAD (in BC)

92 points, EXCELLENT value

SILVER - National Wine Awards of Canada, 2014

... someone once said "It is the duty of all wines to be red!". Well, whether in a red dress or a white one, Pinot Noir shows an impeccable ability to pair off a variety of foods without weighing down the palate. Perfect choice for New Years Eve when, we know, there will be food and drink a-plenty running the length and breadth of the evening (and early morning). This offering from Summerhill is certainly one of my favorite sparkling wines of this style; the restrained elegance showcasing the Kelowna terroir as much as it does Eric von Krosigks' winemaking deftness. Light golden hues with bright silver highlights would indicate a youthful wine but, as one pauses over the glass to inhale, the aromas show a sophisticated maturity. Traditional notes from the Methode Champenoise are expected: the toasty-brioche-fresh-from-the-oven and almonds, but, then comes the Okanagan soil with it's burst of lime zest, young apricot and cranberry finished by a light spice much like good ginger tea. Finessed pearls of small, creamy goodness wash over the palate and the flavors mimic the nose with ease. EXCELLENT balance, structure and concentration this wine will cellar well for several years and is a joy to drink now. Enjoy 2014-2018++ FOOD PAIRING: a new treat for me, I'm enjoying south Indian/Asian with bubbly - mango, ginger and cilantro absolutely adore this sparkling wine!

Meyer Family Vineyards Pinot Noir 2012

McLean Creek Road Vineyard, Okanagan Valley DVA

$40 CAD (BC)

92+ points, STUNNING value

...  to many: there is Pinot Noir and then there is Burgundy. I would be remiss if I didn't stipulate that, to me, Burgundy is as much a frame of mind as it is a geographical location... it's been explained to me that Burgundy is as much, if not more, a sense of respecting the land, the soil, the forest, wind and rain. Natives of that oenological haven explain that to be truly Burgundian (as a winemaker) is to observe the land, listen to the vines and only then does one start to help the land produce the wine it wants to make. It is a selfless passion.

... The team at MFV are consummate Burgundians. This wine sings with precision and roars with passion; unfiltered - the bouquet carries layers of warm Arabic spice, musky sandalwood, oiled leather, green peppercorns, blackberry pie and raspberry-wild thyme compote. The palate carries brisk yet inviting medium+raspberry/currant acid and medium+ ultra-fine tannin with substance to them; the flavors convey an utter symmetry to the aromas. Excellent balance, structure, concentration - this would be a bargain at $150 from Musigny and, indeed, I've seen wines of this caliber reach $300. Cellars well for years, drinks superbly now without any need for decanting/aerating: enjoy 2014-2020.

(and with the chocolate fondue...)

Painted Rock Merlot 2012

Skaha Lake, Okanagan Valley DVA

$40 CAD (BC)

91+ points, EXCELLENT value

*MERITS DECANTING OR 1 PASS THROUGH THE AERATOR*

... oh Merlot, you much-maligned grape! So in vogue in the '80's until consumers realized that there were other varietals. Then they turned their backs on you - shameful. Merlot can carry depth like CabSauv, ruggedness like Malbec, minerality like Pinot Noir and all the smoothness of a Michel Bubblé song. Yes - that's right - in a craftsman's hands this becomes a wine of excellence and, with chocolate, an absolute dream. Deep earthy aromas punctuated by red and black floral tones (irises, rosehips) and sticky blueberries, blackberries and Saskatoons bubbling in a pan on the stove. The young palate is tightly coiled precision; medium+ red currant acid plays well with full chewy/chalky tannin that crave some fat for balance. And here's the fun part! Chocolate has just the right amount of fat to balance a Merlot like this impeccably! This wine has excellent balance, structure and concentration and cellars with ease for years. Enjoy 2014-2020++

-------------------------------

... and that's the end of the party folks!

Many thanks to Ezra Cipes at Summerhill Pyramid Winery, Jak Meyer at MFV: Meyer Family Vineyards and John Skinner at Painted Rock Estate Winery for the very generous sample bottles. As always you can find more recipes, free wine reviews and my notes on premium distillates and cigars on:

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COLOR: BC wine tasting at Canada Place, Sept 2014

  http://www.winebc.org

It's always a good afternoon when I get to meet with friends, and how much better could it be than meeting those self-same friends in the hallowed halls of Canada Place with a banquet hall full of BC wine, artisanal cheese and handcrafted chocolate?

Simple answer: it doesn't!

the unfatigueable Michael Bartier

Yesterday I was fortunate enough to sample through the Fall releases from some of the best wineries in our little corner of the winemaking world; ripe Viognier, lip-smacking Sauvignon Blanc, elegant Chardonnay... the list goes on. And through it all I was  welcomed with warm smiles (like Michael Bartier's).

It was too short a time for such a dizzying array and by the end of the afternoon I found myself more then a little chagrined; what had I missed?! There were still tables I hadn't even visited, much less made the time to speak with the viticulture masters ensconced there. But, as fate would have it, there was a terrific experience waiting for me to wrap things up... a quick interview with Jak Mayer from Mayer Family Vineyards ( http://www.mfvwines.com/)

Jak has been involved in the BC wine industry for years now, and has brought international recognition with him: the likes of Jancis Robinson, Stephen Spurrier and Decanter Magazine know a bit more about BC's capacity to produce world-class wines because of the work of Jak Mayer and his dedicated team. Obviously, I had questions for this man that three hours of tasting BC wine had only accentuated.

Stay tuned for that article coming shortly but, since I've let the cat out of the bag, I'll share perhaps one of the most important subjects we touched on. I asked Jak:

"More developed appellations... are they important to the BC wine industry and will we see them in our lifetimes? Currently there are 5 appellations that cover an area larger than France: can we progress to sub-appellations? Mayer Family Vineyards certainly takes care to put the name of the individual vineyards on its labels!"

JAK MEYER
"Yes, they are important - but not the most important thing that we in BC need to focus on. Let's be honest; most wineries here simply don't know enough about their land to even begin a sub-appellation process. People are still trying to figure out what grows best where and that process takes time. Nothing can change that. But what we can do is recognize that with such a (relatively) small growing area and expensive land, bulk wines are not the future of BC. We as a collective need to show the world our quality - not quantity."

** British Columbia is larger in square acres then France and Germany together, though it has total area of planted vineyards at approximately 10,000 acres/4,000 HA compared to France at 850,000 HA**

And in a heartbeat, I understood what had happened for me that afternoon: I had witnessed yet another level of quality being presented by BC winemakers. Sauvignon Blanc on the same level as some of the best work in the Leyda region of Chile, intricately developed Chardonnay to rival California or Burgundy, sparkling Blanc-de-Noirs that dollar-for-dollar are easily equal to the sublimely quaffable products of Champagne.

If the rest of the wine-world could be characterized as Goliath then BC can start to be seen as David; for this speck on the northernmost tip of the grape-growing map is showcasing time and time again wines that match the efforts of much "mightier" magnates. If you haven't yet tried wine from this region, small wonder; Algeria produces more wine the BC does. But your search may yield great rewards my friends... enjoy the slideshow!

http://www.cinco.ly/~A4IAZ8LMrhkj

Many thanks to the Wine BC and to the innumerable wineries, winemakers and merchants who took the time and expense to put together a brilliant afternoon.

As always you can find more recipes, free wine reviews and my notes

on premium distillates and cigars:

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @ www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

Right-Banks of the world: comparing St Emilion

When I started the #WineTastingCircle of Vancouver, it was with the aim of furthering my wine-education. I wanted the opportunity to taste wines with my colleagues in a private setting of cooperation and discovery... it was my Dad, really, who set me on this path when he told me "Don't save your special bottles of wine for special occasions, use them to create special occasions"

And so in the Summer of 2013 I held my first #WineTastingCircle with a total of 4 attendees. We compared the superlative vintage of 2000 Bordeaux with six different regions represented, with the goal of understanding not only how the vintage affected the areas, but the blends as well, and how well those iconic wines were aging. But in the back of my mind I always knew I wanted to take that concept one step further.

Right-Banks of the World: comparing St Emilion vs other regions making similar styled-blends. A bold idea I was told by colleagues, especially as we would be tasting the wines blind, but an educated palate would be able to decipher California from Bordeaux, Washington from Chile... right?

Well, that what I set out to learn and to make it a proper comparative I needed to make a level playing field.

CRITERIA

Varietals: Merlot, Merlot with Cab Franc, perhaps a hint of Cab-Sauv

Price-point: (BC dollars) $40-$80

Vintage: variable... as its not all from the same area - vintage isn't really a factor

Attendees: 10 sommeliers, wine-judges, journalists, importers and merchants. Total experience about a century in the industry and another century as non-professional wine lovers (wine-geeks in training?)

And of course I had my venue, the inimitable Uva Winebar wine cellar/private room ( http://www.uvawinebar.ca/ ). I must make mention of their genuine hospitality and professionalism, and my personal gratitude for their continued patronage of our quarterly event. Small wonder that the hospitality industry in Vancouver drops in at Uva on a regular basis... industry folks always know the best spots :)

And so you may be forgiven for thinking that at this point I had it all figured out: all the technical minutia of time and place, the wines, the people. What more could there be? My friends, what we really had to overcome - when we got to the room and started pouring the wines wrapped in paper, no hint of what lay beneath... what we had to challenge in those 4 minutes we were given per wine to dissect: to analyze with our eyes, our noses, our taste, was: our own prejudice.

For who could be more prejudiced about wine then wine-lovers, professionals or neophytes? We read the trade-papers, we listen to the experts, the winemakers, the critics. We are the ones who scan for changes in weather patterns. Why? So we better know whether to invest in the vintage or not: is this going to be the big one ? The stellar year that lurks in grand cellars for decades to come and savvy people buy now for a pittance and open decades from now to rounds of applause? Who could have more preconceptions about wine then the very people who are supposed to be immune?

But it's the nature of life: we get a little education and then we get an opinion, and Heaven help us when we get one of those! It was my very first wine-guru, the gifted DJ Kearney who taught that, whilst she was studying for the Master of Wine program (of which we have 3 in Canada) she was, after all, still just learning. A pantheon in the wine-industry who this Spring is a judge at the Argentina Wine Awards told us that she was basically the same as we students of the ISG Level 1. She was learning, growing, developing and hungry for more.

always respected Chateau Pipeau, St Emilion

I knew that I needed to bring that energy to the #WineTastingCircle and, in fact, my colleagues all brought the same fire in their bellies. We had veterans of 25+ years experience and novices only 2 or 3 years into the hallowed halls of professional wine critiquing. It was as wide an array as could be imagined for one table but we were all pulled by the same force which was: To Learn. We fulfilled that role judiciously.

St Emilion is considered by some to be the "heart" of the Right Bank of Bordeaux and has been producing wine for centuries. Soft, plush, fruit-driven Merlot; some with dynamic structure and concentration to last decades and be worthy of their stratospheric price-tags, some juicy little gems intended for fast consumption on lazy afternoons and chic Saturday night parties. Would we be able to tell which two of the ten wines assembled were from reputable, Grande Cru Classe chateau?

THE LIST

2005 Chateau Pipeau, St Emilion Grand Cru Classe  http://www.chateau-pipeau.fr/html/pipeau.html

2005 Jean-Faure, St Emilion Grand Cru Controlee   http://www.jeanfaure.com/

2003 Duckhorn, Napa Valley, California      http://www.duckhorn.com/

2003 Stags Leap, Napa Valley, California    http://www.cask23.com/

2008 Domaine de Chaberton "AC 50", BC, Canada     http://www.domainedechaberton.com/

2007 Painted Rock, Skaha Lake, Okanagan Valley DVA, BC   http://www.paintedrock.ca/

2011 Painted Rock, Skaha Lake, Okanagan Valley DVA, BC

2010 Tinhorn Creek "Oldfield Series", BC, Canada      http://www.tinhorn.com/

2011 Ghost Pines, 62% Sonoma County / 38% Napa Valley    http://www.ghostpines.com/

there was a 10th wine, sadly corked...

LESSON #1   Could we tell the Bordeaux?

utterly brilliant Jean-Faure, St Emilion, 92 points

No. Out of all of the professionals, and all the skilled palates, differing experiences, etc etc not one person could tell which wine came from Bordeaux. But beyond that, some wines were so similar that they could have passed for "twins" or two bottles from the same vintage and same winery thrown into the mix as a test.

2005 Jean-Faure, Grand Cru Classe St Emilion VS 2011 Tinhorn Creek reserve Merlot, Okanagan Valley DVA, BC

In the glass we could see that the Jean-Faure was older, but in all other respects these wines were identical. One member of the panel pointed out the similarities and so we all tried them side-by-side (myself I was inclined to disprove him) and damned it all but he was right! 10 people, 10 votes that the "little" winery from BC had produced a Merlot of such character, such concentration, such finesse that no one could tell it from the Bordeaux. But I knew the difference:

2005 Jean-Faure at auction in California approximately $40+ making it about $100+ in BC. 2010 Tinhorn "Oldfield Series" about $30 at the winery: one-third the price. That was the difference.

an elegant wine; complex, seductive

LESSON#2   Would the California wines be our top-scoring wines?

No. Easy to believe that New World palates would crave that "classic" (to some) California over-ripe fruit, but Parker-esque devotees we were not. Top-score went to a winery that is relatively unknown even in BC - but I need to qualify that. The highest scoring wine of the night was from Domaine de Chaberton which is in our farming belt in the Lower Mainland: Langley. Better known for their excellent value-for-money white wines, the reds from this winery have for the most part fallen off the radar of industry-insiders. I was fortunate enough to be gifted a bottle of this "AC50" which is made by the owner, about 125 cases per year. It is an Ode to everything that is brilliant in St Emilion style blending and reminded  me of Chateau La Gaffelierre, 1er Grand Cru Classe the very first time I tried it. Should you not be familiar with Gaffelierre, it is enough to understand that they have  incredible legacy in France and are owned by nobility.

Asides from the many differences such as vineyard age, pedigree, etc which are all just back-story, the big difference to me is that Chaberton AC50 runs about $50-$60 in BC whilst Gaffelierre runs over $150 if memory serves... once again, triple the price.

LESSON#3   Would the iconic wineries produce the highest scoring wines?

Once again, no. Whilst it's true that some of the more prestigious wineries crafted product that was impressive to all: deep, rich, concentrated wines with superb balance, structure and length on the palate it was in fact a bevvy of new producers who took or tied for first, second and third place.

I have long been a proponent of the notion that when one practices something for a considerable length of time, one gains skills. It's just a fact. The equation has always been explained to me as the "10,000 hour rule": anyone who practices a skill, any skill, for 10,000 hours will become a master at it... baseball, physics, agriculture. All skills follow the "10,000 hour" rule. And we as consumers believe that intrinsically! We cling to businesses with longevity because, instinctively, we believe that their quality of product or service must be superior. In the world of wine, that has long been a Belief.

But we must also be cognizant of the fact that we have entered a New Age of Wine. The entire industry has been turned upside-down in less then 20 years and virtually every rule that was etched in stone has been (successfully) broken. Wine is being produced in regions that no one thought possible, at altitudes considered unproductive, with varietals that had "no place being grown there". Really, when we consider the wine industry as a whole, who would have ever given credence before 1976 to the idea that the French would consider a Napa Valley Chardonnay more classical, more elegant, more "French" then France?

Clare gorging herself at Painted Rock

But that is the lay of the land today. Today it isn't just Bordeaux creating great Bordeaux, and we as educated consumers should be willing ( with due diligence) to open our eyes, our tastebuds and our wallets to the potential of these new ventures. St Emilion has a very special place in my heart and I will always cherish the producers there who have branded quality on their viticulture for centuries. But if there was one message that was hammered home to me time and time again in this tasting it was something my two-year old daughter taught me when last we visited Painted Rock vineyards on the bluffs above Lake Skaha.

It was a beautiful early Fall day; we got to the winery and Clare ran straight for the vineyard. She clambered over rocks and tramped through the rows until she found what she considered to be the perfect spot and then stopped to apply herself to the task of eating as many grapes as possible. It was brilliant! I see now, many months later, that she didn't stop to ask herself where the grapes were from: she tasted, she loved, she continued. We all of us have fallen prey to attractive packaging and weighty lineages, but just like my child (and a blind tasting) showed me:

It's what's inside that counts!

THE SCORES

*scores are my own and not representative of each individual member of the #WineTastingCircle, but do reflect the consensus 

unanimously voted the top wine of the evening

1st place

2008 Domaine de Chaberton "AC50"     93 points

...on the nose offers rich aromas of sous-bois or wild under-growth, tobacco leaf, fresh red currants/raspberries. The palate is awash in well-integrated fine tannin and lean/well-focused medium+ acid... still young in it's life, this wine has years for development and a decade plus in the cellar. Big concentration on the palate with the same musky/sandalwood edge and a kaleidoscope of fresh red berry/sour cherry flavors colored ever so slightly by a hint of young blackberry/huckleberry. Merits serious decanting or two runs through the aerator.

2nd place (TIE)

2007 Painted Rock Merlot                         92+ points

...Big, bold, beautiful! Fully intense aromas pouring from the glass: rich red and dark berries, a whole bouquet of flowers and gentle teasings of black peppercorn at the end... ultra-fresh palate with crisp, clean acid, silky-smooth tannin integrated thoroughly and an overall impression of seamlessness. Drinking brilliantly now, it will continue to evolve for years and will cellar for a decade with ease. Of note: most people at the table thought this to be top-tier California...

2003 Stags Leap Merlot                               92+ points

...beautifully intense and textured nose of warm winter spices, candied almonds, hints of pink peppercorn and dark flowers. Medium+ crisp acids with tons of life left and a generous fruit driven palate with complimentary tones of pencil shavings, sous-bois forest floor and wild herbs. Very well balanced, with good concentration, this Merlot will last for several years still but not develop further.

3rd place (TIE)

2005 Jean-Faure                                            92 points

...a classic: complex marriage between honeyed almond aromas and a bouquet of perfumed red and dark flowers mixing with fresh berries in the garden. Crisp, fresh, tastes like it's a new wine! I was so certain that this was only a few years old, I'm certain that there are years of development and a solid decade plus of cellaring for this exquisite wine. Fine, well-integrated tannin, medium+ concentration of bruised plum/red and black raspberry flavors but not quite as developed as the sublime aromas.

2010 Tinhorn Creek Merlot                      92 points

...so pretty! To my mind, this was what most people think of when they think "Merlot". Bright red berry aromas mixing with soft floral tones, a hint of warm earth and the lightest fresh herb tint. Ultra-crisp red berry acid, incredibly well-integrated tannin structure, the palate is a mirror of the nose (always an indication of quality to me). Great balance, structure and concentration. Beautiful for drinking now and can be held in the cellar for several years.

the slopes above Lake Skaha: brilliant Bordeaux from BC

As always, I look forward to your thoughts, comments and questions. Here, or:

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

Painted Rock 2012 Chardonnay Release

I don't usually do this folks, but Painted Rock has just announced the release of their new Chardonnay and I was so pleased to hear about it that I thought I would pass along the information.

Get your orders in early is all I can say~! I know several restaurants who want to purchase this en masse and, for the price, I defy you to show me better quality in our marketplace.
www.PaintedRock.ca


Dear Friends,

We are thrilled to release our newest vintage of Chardonnay.

Listening to and learning from our vineyards, our evolved farming methods have enabled us to achieve extraordinary balance in the planting block. Spectacular growing conditions then allowed us to perform two harvests of approximately 50% each, 10 days apart to capture specific attributes in the fruit. These harvests were vinified separately, the second harvest undergoing malolactic fermentation, and both were then aged 5 1/2 months in 50% new French oak.

I am very proud of this wine. It has beautifully expressive aromatics, luscious mouthfeel and the characteristic bright acids and mineral quality that our Chardonnay is becoming known for.

We only produced 440 cases of this vintage so please let us know at your earliest convenience if you would like to purchase some. You can order directly from Jill (604 765 4538 or sales@paintedrock.ca) or purchase on our ecommerce website at www.paintedrock.ca. The price has remained unchanged for the past five years at $30.00 per bottle.

I hope to see you all this summer at our temporary tasting room or in our new facility opening this August.

Cheers!

John W. Skinner
Proprietor
Painted Rock Estate Winery

Painted Rock winery, Okanagan Valley, BC, Canada

www.paintedrock.ca

One of the great advantages to being first in line for anything is that you get to say "I discovered this!" as opposed to saying "I followed others"
http://www.vancouverobserver.com/blogs/foodsource/2011/01/19/tasting-painted-rock-wines-estate-founder-john-skinner

I was fortunate enough to be one of the first wine writers in BC to write about Painted Rock winery, back in the Olden Days... I interviewed John Skinner (proprietor) in late 2010 and then the article came out online in January 2011.

I re-read that article recently, and found myself smiling at the precocious notion of buying Painted Rock Chardonnay for a measley $30 CAD (a price which, at the time, I thought mildly inflated). These days the Chardonnay positively bursts with expression and is a steal at $30 from the cellar-door or $35-$40 at most private liquor stores. Yes, the times have changed for both John and myself over the course of only two years and I couldn't be happier for the success that the Skinner family and the Painted Rock team have garnered.

Earned I should say~! John Skinner may be one of the hardest working people in the industry that I know of; He's on the road, he's at events, he's pouring at stores, he's coordinating at the winery... and in the midst of it all John invites me over to his home so that we can chat about wine... gracious host, he even made me espresso! Now how many winery owners have done that for you recently?? And so we sat on the deck, overlooking the ocean, sipped on espresso and had a great conversation about the incredibly deft and diligent work of the Painted Rock team:

Kristof:   John, thank-you so much for having me over - it's always a treat to share some time with you.
John:    A pleasure Kristof, the feeling is mutual.
Kristof:   One of the ideas that we've spoken of before is the use of oak; how much it's changed/evolved over the years and the new approaches in "modern" winemaking. What's developed for Painted Rock in terms of this recently?
John:   To use the Chardonnay as an example, this year's vintage (2011) was in new French oak barrel for about 6 months - and this is what we're finding is a real sweet-spot for our Chardonnay... it's respectful, integrated, and allows for the expressions that we're becoming known for...
Kristof:   -I'm sensing there's more to the story...
John:   Yes, it's quite interesting the way it unfolded; Alain Sutre, our consultant (  http://www.paintedrock.ca/Story/Team ) asked me "John, if you could do anything with this wine, what would you change?" I told him that I loved the bright acidity, but if I had my druthers I would love a bit more mouth-feel. Alain smiled and replied that we had an opportunity to do some extra work in the vineyard that would make our efforts in the cellar be rewarded multiple-fold. That's when Alain introduced our winery to the genuine French practice of triage in the vineyard; harvesting from the vines multiple times to ensure that only the perfectly ripe fruit is picked - and at the optimal time. What we're doing in essence is picking for specific attributes... characteristics that will become building blocks when we get to the blending stage. This increased our labor cost hugely, but the results show in the glass and I couldn't be any more proud of what we've created.

aerial shot of Painted Rock vineyard

At this point, John was drowned out by the sounds of gulls cawing, wings flapping and speedboats passing close by... and so we, as civilized men, paused out conversation to sip our espresso. A moment passed, then back to the vineyard John marched me *(with his words) as he continued his explanation with the unabashed joy of an 8-year old with a new bike!

... The really exciting part of all of this is that we're making a single vineyard Chardonnay, but we're making several different wines to make one wine!
Kristof:   John, you know I'm a simple man. Explain it like I'm 5-years old.
John:   Alain took me into the vineyard a week or so before optimal harvest and showed me how the grape had gone a brilliantly amber/honey/golden color and he said "We pick 20%". And so we did! We picked only those golden grapes (and they were so easy to recognize); we fermented it, put it through malo-lactic, then matured it separately in oak. This first wine we made for the mouth-feel, for the pure viscosity and generous nature with its big aromas.
Kristof:   Ok - I'm with you so far.
John:   Then it was only a week after we picked that first wine that we picked another 60% of the vineyard. This was not put through malo and this was the bulk of our wine. This was going be our brightly acidic backbone and so once again, fermented separately, matured separately.
             And then there was the remaining 20% that we let hang for at least another week - and that's all about super-ripe fruit... all of these wines had separate yeasts, separate fermentation, separate maturation and we end up with these vastly different building blocks. We get this rare opportunity to craft a genuinely layered and textured single-vineyard wine.
Kristof:   It's a very unique winemaker, and winery owner to be honest, who has this kind of commitment to quality in any part of the world, much less in the New World. My hat is off to you sir.

It was at this point that we began a long and somewhat rambling diatribe on the state of current affairs in the BC wine industry. I had always recognized and respected the quality of Painted Rock wines, but it was a completely new level of humble awe to listen to John's rendition of how a truly world-class consultant like Alain was out on the slopes and teaching centuries of technique here. I didn't mean to blow smoke up John's ass, but I told him unequivocally how impressed I was.

We here in BC have experienced over 600% growth in our wine production in a generation, but beyond that we have experienced a growth in quality that most regions can still scarce believe. How is it possible that a winery less then 10 years old, is producing Chardonnay with precision and concentration to rival Pouilly-Fuisse? And at a reasonable price?

It must be because of the dogged determination of a few. A few winemakers, vineyard managers, cellar-hands, distributors... perhaps even because of the writers who try to tell their story. My only regret right now? That the Chardonnay in question wasn't finished yet and so I didn't get the chance to write about it. But I did get to taste these beauties and, just maybe, you'll be able to get your hands on a few bottles as well. Worth the price??? The proof is in the glass my friends - just ask John!

2010 Syrah

91+ points

$40 CAD

Skaha Bench, Okanagan

18 months on 80% new oak (60% French, remainder American)

• visual:   clear; deep bruised plum core with slightest bright cherry rim
• nose:   clean; medium+ to fully intense and youthful aromas of bright red cherries, raspberries, dark cocoa tones, black peppercorns and intense white pepper, slight Thai chili finish mixed with savory herbaceousness (south Okanagan sous-bois)
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ red raspberry/currant acid, medium+ to full chewy/meaty tannin, medium+ body, medium+ to full alcohol (14.8% ABV), fully intense and developing flavors in-sync with the nose; awash in red berry tones the palate gives way to warm oak and savory cocoa with a lightly spiced pepper finish. Very good balance, excellent structure and long length
• conclusion:   an excellent example of Syrah/Shiraz, this wine drinks well with serious decanting now, and will reward cellaring with moderated tannin structure. Drink 2013-2020++
• FOOD PAIRING:   I have several good friends/colleagues in the wine industry in Australia (hello McLaren Vale~!!!) and all I want to do is invite them to over for BC Shiraz and BC steak: grilled Pemberton ribeye steak with coarse seasalt rub, charred leeks, BC vinegar brushed portobello mushrooms and steamed new potatoes in Island Farms whole butter #HellYeah

2009 Merlot
92+ points
*unofficial score from the 2013 International Wine Bloggers Conference in Penticton, BC ranging from 91+ to 93 points
$40 CAD18 months, 95% new French oak

• visual:   clear; solid garnet core with slight cherry/brick rim
• nose:   clean; fully intense and youthful aromas developing with bright raspberry jam, red currants, hints of menthol and pine, savor sous-bois underbrush, distinct blackberry mineral finish
• palate:   clean; dry, full red currant acid, full grippy tannin, medium body, medium+ alcohol (14% ABV), full intense and youthful flavors developing much the same as the nose; bright red berries burst on the palate, followed by a dense concentration of wood/earth/savory underbrush characteristics... darker berries follow with some dark tea notes. Excellent balance and structure with long length
• conclusion:   only just coming into it's own, this is really a food wine at present but will develop into a "thinking man's wine" with another half-dozen years of patience. Enjoy 2013-2023 and possibly beyond
• FOOD PAIRING:   the crisp young acids crave fat and the tightly wound tannin crave substance; pull out all the stops for this!! spinach, wild mushroom and blue cheese stuffed beef tenderloin; slow roast, finished with wild thyme butter. Charred eggplant stuffed with tomato compote and caramelized onions. Fresh country bread...   

2009 Red Icon
92+ points
$55
WINNER OF A 2012 LIEUTENANT GOVERNOR'S AWARD FOR EXCELLENCE IN BC WINESBEST RED BLEND IN CANADA, 2011 WINE ACCESS CANADIAN WINE AWARDS

18 months in 95% new French oak
Merlot 30%,  Cabernet Franc 29%, Cabernet Sauvignon 25%
Petit Verdot 15%, Syrah 1%

• visual:   clear; solid garnet core with slightest cherry rim, ruby highlights
• palate:  clean; medium+ youthful yet developing aromas; Okanagan sous-bois savory herbaceousness (think wild sage, thyme, rosemary), an array of red and black berries, warm leather, old wood, cedar tones, black tea
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ black currant acid, medium++ chewy/chalky tannin, medium+ body, medium alcohol (14.3% ABV), medium+ youthful yet developing flavors much in-line with the aromas; a touch of greenness to the fruit as it washes the palate in apple, cherry and plum notes, followed by rich black tea, warm wood and that omnipresent savory herb compound... developing on the palate the longer it sits... excellent balance and structure with long length
• conclusion:   a babe; if you must drink this now, then do it the honor of a double-run through the aerator or a 1-hour decant. Enjoy 2015-2022 and possibly beyond
• FOOD PAIRING:   tonight I came home from a long day, I spent time with my wife, then put my daughter to bed and relaxed with this wine and some country pate, fresh bread, spicy plum compote... to be honest, it may have been one of the best pairings I've ever made.

And so I came to the end of a great chat with a colleague, and a brilliant showcasing of BC terroir (and winemaking skill). I had had my eyes opened to the possibilities that exist when someone genuinely passionate and tenaciously driven decides to accomplish a goal, seemingly impossible though it may be. If someone had said in a professional wine-circle 10 years ago that BC wines would be competitive on a global level.... well, that person probably would have faced a fair amount of derision.

Today the derision would only be directed at those who don't know that that is exactly what the leaders in our industry are doing. But one thing especially stuck with me as I was leaving John's house; the ardor of our wine-geek-chat still making my mind race with dreams of future vintages:

Wine is a business. Wine is a business like any other in that the producer produces a product that hopes to gain acceptance in the market, and the consumer hopes to find a product worthy of consumer-dollars.

But it's also an industry unlike any other in that there can be such fanatical devotion to a label, winery, winemaker, and all due to an incredibly volatile and subjective sensory perception called Taste.

the Skinner family

Very few wineries (in the grand scheme of things) are producing on both levels. Few and far between are the business-people who aspire to creative genius, and few of our most artistic visionaries are savvy business-people. I can say with pride that Painted Rock winery is one of those examples. I say "with pride" because even when I was less then a year into my wine-education, I had figured out as much.... first tasting of the wine, first meeting with John, and I knew that this was a class-act. What I didn't count on what the Skinner sense of propriety:

Painted Rock could sell their wines for more money. Much more. Need an example?? Check out Napa Valley Chards or Bordeaux blends and then tell me that $55 is too much for an award-winning wine from BC~! I asked John about this before I left and, in essence, he said

"Kristof, we put the quality there - that's what wins awards. It's putting the value there that creates a great winery."

Amen.

As always, I welcome your thoughts here or on Twitter @AStudentOfWine

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!!