Terre delle Falcole, Chianti Classico

I love ambition in a wine-maker and, if truth be known, I really admire ambition in anyone (but most especially in someone who can please my over-demanding palate).

   How then can I not admire a man from Cleveland, Ohio who decides that he should move to Italy to make wine>? Incredible as it may seem, that is exactly what Frank Grace did in 1996; investing in a property in Tuscany with his German business partner and opening Il Molino di Grace under the direction of noted Italian wine-maker Franco Bernabei (www.IlMolinodiGrace.com).

Il Molino di Grace, Tuscany

   By the year 2000, Frank and his team had achieved the impossible: rated the Winery of the Year by Wine and Spirits Magazine (www.WineandSpiritsMagazine.com) Frank and Franco were at the top of world. Their 2000 vintage of Sangiovese, known as "Gratius" even received the Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri  award, which is the most prestigious wine award in Italy. What does one do at this point?

   Buy some more land, and start a new label of course~! Hence the label Terre delle Falcole (land of the Falcon) which is oh-so-dramatic. Using the same knowledge that had catapulted them to the top of their field in next to no-time, Frank and Franco set about trying to develop the nuances of their terroir and, as we have seen many brilliant winemakers do, let the land express itself.

   Bravo gentlemen.

2003 Chianti Classico, Terre delle Falcole

(it is both the region of Tuscany (DOCG) and the name of the wine)

$20 USD, $30 CAD



http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/

     *** Very Good Value ***

varietal:      100% Sangiovese

maturation: 12 months French barriques, Slavonian oak casks and stainless steel

vinification:18-20 days,at between 29 C to 31C, malolatic fermentation

• visual:   clean; incredible fully intense violet-garnet core with slight cherry-brick rim (the color is deeper because of the high temperature of vinification)
• aroma:   clean; moderate+ intense and developed aromas of worn leather, dried blueberries and blackberries, cassis or black currants, light perfumed black florals such as irises-roses-and mild exotics, mild wintery spices such as clove and nutmeg, baked earth
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate++ (red currant) acids, moderate (slightly grippy) tannins, moderate+ body, moderate alcohol, moderate+ intense and developed flavors that mimick well the nose; emphasis on the berry first on the palate, with the long slow revealing of winter spices on baked terra cotta. Excellent balance and structure, medium+ length
• conclusion:   drink now to 2014... still has lively acids, rich tannin and good concentration of flavor but will not improve with further aging
• PAIRINGS:    when in Rome >>>> and so when in Tuscany, eat Tuscan food. Try this with a simple grilled flatbread with savory herbs, cheese and field fresh tomatoes. Try it with a pan-seared anchovy pasta with too much garlic (there is never too much garlic)... this wine has layers to play off~!







Il Molino (in the fog)

An excellent wine already, I can't wait to try further releases from this winery as their work will only develop into further layering and deeper concentrations. Already a very good value for the region, this is a lovely expression of both Sangiovese and the Chianti Classico DOCG.
 
As always, I look forward to your comments and questions...
 
CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

ISG Level 2, Tuscany, Froscobaldi vs Dievole

I've been writing for almost one year, and still I haven't really explained what ISG school is like.

     Well, level 1 was much harder then I expected it to be. Some of you may remember that I had the great honor of studying under DJ Kearney ( www.internationalsommelier.com/services/dj_kearney ). Well that was an honor and a challenge! She knew we were a small class of motivated sommeliers-to-be and so she pushed and prodded us to find greater depths within (the glass). We succeeded, and I have her to thank.

     Most people walk out of Level 1 and walk straight into Level 2. I did not. I took 6 months to study, sip, take notes, and drink some more... I am extremely glad that I did. Every class (one per week) is a lecture of 3.5 hours that could easily become 8 hours or longer. In my next class we will talk about Piedmonte, Veneto, Tuscany & all of Southern Italy.

      Are you serious?

     Oh yes... they're serious. All of that in 3 hour with 6 blind tastings at the end. And so, one is forced to study about a couple of hours a day to keep up, and stay ahead, of the lectures. I have been miserable at staying ahead, but am working my utmost. Hence the Tuscan wine tonight and a glimpse into what ISG is like; it most assuredly is alot of work, but if one has the motivation, it is also an incredible opportunity to open one's eyes to the wide world of wine.

     If one talks about Tuscany, one talks about the wine region of Chianti... please forgive me as I try my best to explain tonight's studying. Chianti was not always Chianti... it was the Grand Duke of Tuscany (Cosimo III de Medici) who created one of the first wine regions in the world in 1716. Though the wines then were praised for their easy-drinking and rich flavors, less then 100 years ago Chianti was known for insipid red wines that "showed aggressive acidity".

     It was the owners of Sassicaia vineyard ( http://www.sassicaia.com/ ) who turned everything upside-down. From an area outside of the DOC or DOCG, they started producing a wine in the 1960s that showed greatness was still in the soil of Tuscany. They were the forefathers of the "Super Tuscan". A resurgence to the area followed, and now we are the ones to reap the rewards as we tipple into our glasses for yet some more fruity goodness.

2008 Remole, Tuscano

http://www.froscobaldi.it/

12.5% ABV, $18 CAD **Very Good Value**

central Tuscany, 85% Sangiovese and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon blend

soil type: sand and clay

• visual:     clean; light garnet core with slight pale cherry rim
• nose:      clean; moderate+ intense youthful and somewhat layered aromas of cherry blossoms, raspberry, red currants, funky barnyard oak, vanilla, slightly hot alcohol
• palate:     clean; 0 dryness, moderate+ crisp acids, moderate slightly grippy tannins, moderate body, moderately intense fresh and youthful flavors; cherry blossoms, raspberries, red currants dominate with a solid oak backbone and a light floral finish. Good balance, good structure, medium length of finish.
• conclusion:   an easy drinking wine to drink now (2011 to 2013). Decant for one hour for best results - I found it tight to start and needed time to relax.
• PAIRS WITH:   charcuterie. Don't let the French name fool you - it's all Italian (as well); plates loaded with sausages, hunks of cheese, fresh bread and fruit compotes or mustard. Bon Appetito!

2006 Nipozzano Riserva, Chianti Rufina DOCG

http://www.frescobaldi.it/

13.5% ABV, $28 CAD **Very Good Value**

Soil type: Dry and stony, with clay, limestone

90% Sangiovese with complementary grapes (Malvasia nera, Colorino, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon)

• visual:     clean; moderately intense garnet core with light cherry rim
• nose:     clean; moderately intense youthful bouquet showing some age and layering; ripe cherries, raspberry, red currant, blackberry, spicy edges of white pepper, funky barnyard oak, vanilla florals, slightly hot alcohol
• palate:      clean, 0 dryness, moderate+ red currant acids, moderate+ green grippy tannins, moderate+ body, moderate+ intense flavors showing some age and development; red currant and raspberry dominate followed closely by solid oak presence, limestone terroir, end palate of blackberry lightly touched by vanilla and florals. Good balance, very good structure, long length on the palate
• conclusion:   This wine is just coming into its own. Drink 2011 to 2015 and possibly further... I would love to see the crisp red berries turn to dark berries and tar notes
• PAIRS WITH:   crisp acids call for fats. I would use a wine like this with foie gras (au torchon), truffle and fresh bread. The acids in the wine will play off the fat in the foie gras, the earthy truffle will play up notes in the wine's terroir and barrique aging and the bread is just good.

2004 Dievole Chianti Classico DOCG

13.5% ABV, N/A in Canada, $25 USD **Very Good Value**

http://www.dievole.it/

Soil: marl, alberese, and calcareous

• visual:     clean; deep ruby core with defined cherry rim
• nose:    clean; moderate+ intense aromas showing age and development; rich coffee, plums, cherry, raspberry, vanilla, tar
• palate:   clean, 0 dryness, moderate red currant acids, moderate+ to full chewy tannins, moderate body, moderate+ intense palate showing age and development; bright cherry, raspberry and especially red currant initially, followed by vanilla oak, bruised irises, cherry blossoms at the end. Good balance, wonderful structure and a long finish.
• conclusion:   Drink now. This wine is coming to the end of a beautiful life; drink 2011-2012. Fresh fruit flavors are already dying out and will not last another 2 years (I imagine)
• PAIRS WITH:   Sundried tomato and smoked chicken farfalle with browned butter sauce and fresh peas. Yum.

     If 4 hours of research has taught me anything, it is that Tuscany (and Chianti of course) is capable of a great many things... this is why some call it the Bordeaux of Italy! Crisp vibrant and acidic wines to drink young in the heat and some more mature blends worthy of cellaring for 10 years or more. How do you know which is which? Unless you have alot of time to Google, you'll just have to try a few!

CIN CIN ~!!!   SLAINTE ~!!!   CHEERS ~!!!

2 oz tasters!

What a joy it is to go to a restaurant or wine bar and be able to order 2oz tasters of wine - thus being able to sample a mulititude without the heavy onus on the wallet (or the liver for that matter).

The wonderful people at JOEY's (Burrard) have such a thing, and it is a marvel to behold. The largest selection of wines in Western Canada (I believe) in their electronic pouring system - if memory serves they have something in the range of 15 to 18 wines by the glass or by the 2 oz taster. Perhaps this means a regular visit to JOEY's?? Oh yes, perhaps so.

WINE A

clear visual;

• deep ruby centre
• slight strawberry rim
• moderately strongs legs (12%+ my guess - 13.5% actual)

clean nose; moderate++ or full- intense notes of

• hot alcohol!
• moderate oaking & leather
• ripe red cherries
• a bit of gaminess to it

clean palate; 0 dryness, moderate- acid, moderate++ to full- tannin, moderately intense flavors of

• chalky gravel
• moderate++ oaking (18 months?)
• baies rouges (those ripe red cherries again and a touch of currant)
• blackberry and saskatoon
• dark chocolate at the end of the palate

moderate++ body, modrate++ alcohol, full palate

This wine had long, chewy tannins with a rich & fully developed flavor. Even with the tannins as big as they were, they didn't get in the way of the crisp red fruit. I say: Enjoy now and buy a few more bottles to open every 6 months - savor the development of an excellent wine.

2007 Barone Ricasoli Chianti (Tuscany, Italy)

WINE B

clean visual;

• moderate garnet centre
• clearly defined moderate strawberry/brick rim
• heavy legs (my guess 13.5%+ - actual was 14.5%)

clean nose; moderate++ intense aromas of

• ripe strawberries and cherries
• light floral scents
• slight tinge of iron (the terroir?)
• hot alcohol again

clean palate; 0 dryness, moderate++ acid, full- tannin, moderately intense flavors of

• all the same as above
• the oaking seems moderate++ (12 months new oak at least I would guess)
• the iron comes through more on the palate

moderate body, moderate alcohol (but it feels hot!), full palate

Why are the acids soooo high?? This wine has a lovely, rich flavor - but I feel like I'm drinking it prematurely. The acids and tannins are still too predominant (IMHO) and overwhelm the fruit - though the terroir still has a chance to show. I would wait another 2 years before I even opened anpother bottle - but with the structure I can imagine this being an incredible wine (later on).

2006 Usseglio Chateauneuf du Pape (Rhone, France)

WINE C

clear visual;

• moderate garnet centre
• slight cherry rim
• moderate- legs (my guess was 11-12% but actual was 14%!)

clean nose; moderate- intense aromas of

• black plum
• floral such as lilies or irises
• moderate leathery oak (9 to 12 months I would guess)
• light mushroom

clean palate; 0 dryness, moderate acids, full- tannins, moderately intense flavors of

• baies rouges
• chalky, rough, chewy tannins
• cigar box
• green apple - very intense

moderate body, moderate++ alcohol (but very soft on the mouth), long and developed palate

Once again, (IMHO), the overwhelming tannins really get in the way of the fruit. This of course could be stylistic - or because it's meant to be enjoyed with food rather than on it's own, or it's a touch too young, or any number of things. The bottom line to me was that I didn't want more than 2 oz. 2 oz and I got a great taste of something new - but more than that and my palate would have crashed on itself...

2007 Pesque "Terrases" Cotes-du-Ventoux (Rhone, France)

Dolcetto & Chianti

Good morning all...

I decided that I needed to test my wine skills with a wine-professional yesterday, and so I took a trip down the street to visit Sebastian LeGoff @ Uva wine bar.

Sebastian is a warm, wonderful human being - and those are few and far between... we met when UVA first opened & I was down the street from him @ Subeez cafe. My general manager, Andrew Amy, and I went down to welcome him to the neighbourhood & were impressed with his devotion to food & wine (two of our favorite things). Since that day, I make time as I can to go and visit his oasis & forget the world in a good glass of vino.

So long story short, I told Sebastian that I was taking the sommelier class & he invited me down to taste wine with him. Yesterday I asked for two wines to be poured blind and I would write notes on them - then asking Sebastian to critique.

WINE A

--moderate+ intensity nose; plum, chalk, violet flowers

--00 dryness, moderate++acid, moderate++tannin; blackberry, dark cherry, peppercorn

moderate+intensity flavor, long finish, good structure

my guess: a Cab blend with Malbec

WINE B

--moderate intensity nose; bright, light cherry, grass, vanilla

--0 dryness, light acid, moderate+tannin; green apple, cherry, tiny bit of spice on the finish

moderate intensity, moderate+ finish, good structure

my first guess: Chianti

second guess : Gamay Noir

WINE A is a Dolcetto, from the Piedmont region of Italy. Beautiful rich wine that I would love to drink again with grilled meat.

WINE B is, according to Sebastian, a very old style of Chianti - the name of which is written in doctor scribble that I unfortuneately cannot read. Wonderfully bright, yet still intense, wine that drinks just a little too easily on it's own. I think (perhaps I'm mad to say this) that a sangria with that wine would kick a$$.

So, a worthwhile investment of time and money, as a visit to UVA always is... just give yourself an hour longer than you think you're going for... the balance of life tips very hard over to the "play" side of the scale when you enter those doors.