Evolution wines by Sokol Blosser Winery, Oregon

1971 was a very good year, just ask the Sokol Blosser family.

For it was in 1971, long before anyone had lofty notions of an "Oregon Wine Industry" that the Sokol Blossers planted the self-named vineyards about 30 km (20 miles) south of the city of Portland in the county of Dundee. Started by Stanford graduates, and newlyweds, Bill Blosser and Susan Sokol, these two must have either been incredibly stubborn or truly certain of their vision. I say that because the business-law of averages states that any new company will take about seven years to start making profit.

For this vineyard, the big break took more like eight years when the intrepid couple sent their wine to the  International Wine and Spirits Competition in London winning six awards, including several golds. I can't imagine waiting eight years to receive validation from my peers that I'm doing the right kind of work... it takes a very special person to struggle to create something that flies in the face of "mass-opinion". I mean, really, at heart we're all still in high-school  waiting to see what everyone else is going to wear for the first day of class, and then running home to ask our parents for money so that we can buy the same clothes.

Well obviously Bill and Susan weren't those kind of kids. They built a winery where virtually no one else thought World-Class wine could be made. They sent that wine to one of the most prestigious competitions of the day, and won gold. They then expanded the vineyard the very next year and Bill left the stability and comfort of a well-heeled planners position to take the reins as the Sokol-Blosser winemaker full-time. Bravely forging into the unknown...

But Bill and Susan were never afraid to push into the unknown; they were innovators with the use of cover crops to preserve top-soil, they reduced and eliminated the use of pesticides and herbicides to preserve the local salmon streams, they became recognized as one of the top-100 companies to work for in the state of Oregon (the only winery that year). In short, this couple spent  their careers striving towards a different direction then the mainstream.

But why?

underground wine cellar

Why forge so ardently for organic principles long before it became popular, or even fiscally prudent to do so? Why install solar panels for energy on the WestCoast, where it rains enough to make even ducks uncomfortable? Why create the first U.S. Green Building Council’s LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certified underground barrel cellar? Why work so darned hard when so many others were doing the opposite?

I believe it was to preserve their terroir. 

Inspired winemaking and stunning land weren't the only reasons that The Wine Spectator featured Sokol Blosser and their Pinot Noir in 2001. No... awards, accolades, adoring consumers all happened because these wines tell a story.

I was fortunate enough to have a colleague at PMA Canada send me some samples of the new release from this vineyard; their mid-tier wine which hovers just below the $20 price in British Columbia. Excellent price for certified organic wines in this part of the world, but what about the flavors???

A fresh take on Oregon!

Evolution n/v white

Dundee hills AVA, Oregon

$19.99 www.bcldb.com

90 points

www.PMACanada.com   importers

16th edition

varietals:   Muller-Thurgau, White Riesling, Semillon, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, 

Muscat Canelli, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner

maturation:   100% stainless steel

• visual:   clear; pale gold core with watery rim, silver highlights
• nose:   clean; medium+ to fully intense youthful aromas bursting with exotic floral and lush fruit, yellow and pink grapefruit zest, white flowers, apricot, roses... layers of bouquet
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ grapefruit acids, medium- body, medium- ABV (12%), medium+ youthful flavors mimicking the nose... there truly are layer upon layer to this wine and yet in presents itself in a very approachable manner. Full of fruit and floral this wine uses the Gewurztraminer brilliantly and will appeal to any Spring/Summer patio/beach/deck. Excellent balance and very good structure, medium+ length
• conclusion:   imminently thirst-quenching, this bright little number drinks well now and will not develop appreciably with age. Best 2013-2017/19
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   as the Gewurztraminer was one of the most prominent varietals in the blend (for me) - I would use that as my anchor and try Dijon marinated grilled chicken with BC apricot relish, steamed quinoa, fresh rosemary sauteed apples and baby bok-choy... the sweetness in the wine will respond well to some savory tones in your food, the apricot accentuates the ripe stonefruit notes whilst playing acid (relish) off sweet fruit, I'm on a quinoa kick so there's that - but  really this wine carries multiple layers and can handle multiple layers in the accompanying food

Evolution n/v red

Dundee hills AVA, Oregon
$19.99 
89 points

2nd edition

Bronze Medal Winner - Dallas Morning News Wine Competition

Bronze Medal Winner - New York International Wine Competition

• visual:   clear; deep garnet core with distinct cherry rim
• nose:   clean; moderate+ youthful aromas bursting with cherries, cherry blossoms, roses, savory earth background and light spice
• palate:   clean; dry, moderate+ red currant acids, moderate+ green/grippy tannin  moderate- body, moderate+ ABV (13%), moderately intense youthful flavors much like the nose: fresh and cheery with a hint of savory backbone but not overly complex. Very good balance, good structure, medium length
• conclusion: fresh young wine best consumed young. Will not develop appreciably in bottle but tannin will soften over the next 12-18 months and will drink more easily without food (for those who enjoy a soft red). Enjoy 2013-2017
• FOOD PAIRINGS: I would use this Syrah based blend much like an inexpensive Chianti or perhaps Primitivo... pasta bolognese with prosciutto chips, grilled sausage and portobello mushrooms, shaved Parmesan... it needs no explanation - a juicy wine for some juicy food!

"All things unto themselves" I've heard it said... to me, as I grow in the wine-industry, I find that is still a rarity. It's rare to find people I guess in any walk of life who dare to express themselves as they are, rather then how they wish they were. For a winemaker to express grapes the way that they want to be expressed- well- that's not every winemaker.

Winemakers are proud. Winemakers are bold. Winemakers want to put their stamp on a wine so that people half-way around the world will say: "Oh - that was made by Winemaker X!". It takes more strength of character to allow a wine to travel halfway around the world and someone says: "Oh - that was made in Dundee Hills!".

The Evolution line of wines is still introductory, but certainly walks a long way towards expressing more of where it came then of who made it. These wines may well change the way consumers look at Oregon wines... from lofty Pinot Noir commanding top-level prices to these which are easy drinking and (relatively) easy to afford. I look forward to tasting more of the wines that made Sokol Blosser famous.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Marquis Wine Cellars 2012 Media tasting

Anyone who's been reading my wine articles for awhile knows that I hold Marquis Wine Cellar (www.Marquis-wines.com ) in the greatest esteem. To me, they represent the highest echelon of wine-merchants not only in Canada, but in any country I have ever been.

   John Clerides, owner, is a man who makes things happen. John isn't afraid to voice his opinion on wines, on politics or on the local hockey-team. John also isn't afraid to buck the trends and pursue his own path... whereas some merchants here will stock their shelves based off of Robert Parkers scores, John prefers to hire the best staff he can and sends them forth to all corners, sourcing new treasures for admirers of wines, not scores.

   Here is a list of fine wines that John and his brilliantly eloquent staff introduced at their second annual Media tasting at the shop recently:

the whites

n/v Domaine Renaudie, Touraine Sparkling, Loire Valley

Chenin Blanc - Chardonnay  blend

http://www.domainerenaudie.com/

$24, 91 Points

• nose is dry and dusty with rich minerality and light stonefruit qualities, almost a black pepper finish
• palate is crisp, full (yellow grapefruit) acids, frothy mousse, palate mimicks the nose with medium+ concentration and good length
• this wine is a great alternative to Prosecco or Cava for a similar price; well balanced and integrated acids, good structure and concentration this can be enjoyed on its own or with some rich foods. Think fresh BC salmon, butter poached scallops or a pasta with a light cream sauce and fresh peas!

2008 Bruno Colin aligote , Burgundy

$24, 89 Points

• yes, this is the same Bruno Colin who produces beautiful Premier Cru Montrachet  and truly world-class Pinot-Noir
•  ultra pale straw color with silver highlights
•  rich bouquet leaning more towards the dried peach/apricot flavor with a strong savory herbaceous background and light summer floral notes
•  tight, focused, lean, dry with moderate+ to full acids full of lemon and lime flavors but gets a little mono-syllabic... very good concentration just not alot of layering

2010 Jardin Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa

$20, 92 Points

• very funky nose running rampant with a moderate+ concentration of youthful savory herb notes, wild grasses, rocky/granitic minerality. It almost smells like a Languedoc Chardonnay  with it's fresh pear aromas!
• on the palate a super-inviting moderate+ lemon/lime acid, moderate- body, moderate+ concentration of kumquat marmalade and the savory herbs, still has the strong minerality underneath
• maybe not everyone's cuppa-tea, but I find this totally over-delivers. Once again, an excellent find by Marquis staff

2010 Domaine Baudry "3 Coteaux", Chenin Blanc, Chinon, Loire Valley

 $25  , 90+ Points

• 100% Chenin Blanc blended from 3 different vineyard hillsides
• ultra pale honey color
• aromas of dry dusty minerality with a warm earth undercurrant, distinct black pepper finish
• ultra bright, ultra fresh yellow and pink grapefruit acid gives way to straw notes, rich underlying minerality, quince jam. Great concentration!
• good value, but I believe that part of the $25 price is because a white Chinon  is just so rare in the BC market
• also important to note that this is an organic winery family-owned and run since the mid-1400's... these wines can age (yes the whites) for up to 50 years!

2006 Bernard Gripa St Joseph,

northern Rhone Valley

$43, 94+ Points

• Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier
• lush, fully intense and developing bouquet  of layers upon layers of ripe summer flowers, succulent orchardfruit and honeyed stonefruit, gravelly goodness underneath
• palate is awash in yummyness; full, vibrant, youthful acid fantastically well integrated and developing into a truly world-class wine
• lots of room left for this wine to develop further; it represents the region superbly and will reward anyone with the patience to keep from stealing down to the cellar on a daily basis! A must-have for those of you who enjoy Chateau Mussar from Lebannon

2004 Josko Gravner Breg Anfora, friuli Italy

$120, 93-94 Points

• blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Italico and Pinot Grigio
• important to note the peachy/orange-blossom color
• aged on the skins for up to 9 months! A unique technique for a white wine, creating unique aromas and flavor profiles
• on the nose a savory floral quality I'm totally unfamiliar with, moderate concentration but ultra distinct. Now that I've smelled this, I will never confuse it with anything else, nor can I explain it in any other words
• on the palate moderate+ acid, moderate- (grippy) tannin (yes tannins in a white), medium+ concentration of unique savory herbal-floral notes, excellent balance and structure with superbly long lasting flavor

2010 Domaine Huards Rose, Cheverny, Loire Valley

$23, 89 Points

• soft floral, strawberry aromas
• fun and unassuming, this well-put-together wine is full of delightful structure and nuance. This is a deeper, richer, fuller-bodied and drier version then we're used to from most New World wineries, but very much the norm in Old World producer. Good notes of young cherries, raspberries, some roses and cherry blossom

After some truly inspired choices of whites, we were all looking forward to what John might have as a surprise in red wines... I genuinely believe no one could have predicted that someone in BC would be putting Greek wine next to Crozes-Hermitage, but John is a purveyor of goodness in the bottle, and seems indifferent to wine-prejudice. The wines ranged from great to excellent and the Greek wines were as good, if not better, then many I've tried in the States or Europe.

the reds

2010 Tetramythios Agiorgitiko, Greece

$19, 89 Points

• slightly funky, fresh and inviting herbal/fruity nose
• moderate acids with a young cherry tinge, moderate chewy tannin structure, this wine has some good structure and is enjoyable right now
• bright acids make this a natural pairing for lamb; roast, grilled, braised... the fat in lamb always calls out for "high-strung" acid and this wine will play the part perfectly!

2010 Edgebaston Pepper Pot, Stellenbosch, South Africa

$23, 92 Points

• blend of Syrah/Shiraz, Mourvedre and Tennat
• on the nose more of a cooked/stewed tomato, almost a cinnamon quality/warm spice
• acids are well integrated but full intensity (read: mouth-watering), tannin structure comes in much stronger then it feels (because they're already so well integrated as well), great structure, flavor notes similar to the nose
• this is really a food wine! This has style, this has grace... just looking for the right partner for an evening at home... consider this more an Osso Bucco or Beef Wellington wine as it has the structure to go the distance with your more full-bodied dishes. An excellent example in our marketplace of South African wine



Yahn Chave and his son



2007 Yahn Chave Crozes-Hermitage, Northern Rhone Valley

$38, 92+ Points

• 100% Syrah
• beautiful! rich and integrated cherry, cassis, leather, blackberry, savory earth aromas melding seemlessly
• bright, fresh and inviting... medium+ acids, medium- tannins, lighter bodied style
• would pair like a dream with some simple yet well-made charcutterie; think of a basket filled with salami, cured ham, chevre, fresh bread, some pickles and olives. This is the wine that you want in that basket. The only question is: Who are you going to share it with?

2007 Amalie Robert Pinot Noir, Oregon

$42, 92+ Points

• if you like the lighter, more "classical" Burgundian style of Pinot Noir, then this is for you!
• fresh, light+ to medium black currant/black berry acid, medium (rich and vigorous) tannin, everything in check, everything well-balanced with a good structure
• this wine delivers Burgundy quality at half the price. Is it Burgundy? No. No, but it's got that "Burgundy feel" to it and would be a brilliant addition to anyone's cellar. Can age 5 to 7 years gracefully

And just before we left, a little something sweet to send us on our way with a smile.

sweet

2004 Domaine le Mont, Bonnezeaux, Loire Valley, 

late-harvest chenin blanc 

$37, 91 points

• rich perfume of dried stonefruit (apricots), dried hay
• bright and fresh without huge amounts of residual sugar, rich racy acid, strong concentration of those same apricot marmalade flavors without being flabby or heavy
• I would consider this more for people who say that they don't like icewine or late-harvest but are looking for an after-dinner treat

So John Clerides knows how to throw a party, and no doubt about it! We had great wine, succulent little morsels of food, and the room was abuzz with lively conversation. It's a relaxing thing, for a wine-writer, to know that I'm going to a function where I won't have to worry if the wines may or may not be corked. I don't have to worry about whether or not someone is trying to push a $12 wine on me for a $40 pricetag because they think they can get away with it.

   When I step into Marquis Wine Cellars, my shoulders relax; I'm in a very happy place. This was where I came before I knew what Chinon was, or before I knew how to understand when I was tasting minerality in a wine, this was my first adult foray into wine... now I'm lucky enough to be able to go in and discuss Sonoma Pinot Noir vs Willamette Valley. I get to go in and search for good back-vintages of moelleux Loire whites (which my wife adores).  In short, Marquis Wine Cellars has become a fixture in my wine-education and remains so to this day.

   True enough, I may not agree with every comment or suggestion from the staff and management, but folks this is wine: I'll gladly debate with John why I love great Sonoma Pinot Noir and he can't say that I'm wrong because it's all personal taste at a certain point! No one will agree with you on everything, especially not something as specific as wine, but we can all agree that this is a great place to buy it from!

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Shea Wine Cellars, Willamette Valley

Pinot Noir: love it or don't... there really doesn't seem to be any in between.

     Myself, I love the damned grape. It was one of my first true joys in wine; tasting a great Pinot Noir. Many years later, I still derive the same pleasure - accentuated only be a deeper appreciation for what tremendous work goes into those delightful results.

     My wife, however, can pinpoint a Pinot Noir being opened on the other side of the room because of it's unique characteristics that my wife says: "Are better appreciated by other people.". She truly dislikes it, and will only grudgingly even taste from my glass.

     Sometimes there are exceptions even to that rule, and Shea Wine Cellars  ( www.SheaWineCellars.com )just might be it! Situated in the Willamette Valley of Oregon, Dick Shea started planting grapes on his land in the later 1980's. 95% Pinot Noir, the rest is Chardonnay (which I haven't tried yet), Dick has a truly impressive array of sub-plots and clones.

     The clone I tried is Pommard Clone, which was brought to America in the 1940's & (In My Humble Opinion) is not widely used at present. The winemakers who do use it however, are producing world-class results.

2002Pommard Clone Pinot Noir

$unknown - best guess about $100-$120 Canadian for this vintage if you bought it today

14.4%

• deep ruby centre with established brickish rim, slight sedimentation
• full- to moderate++ intense bouquet; all manner of cherries, black currant, leather, slight tobacco of mild cigars, slight heat from the alcohol, finish with a sweetness reminiscent of blueberries
• moderate acids, moderate tannins, palate equals the nose in all respects
• moderate body... almost a touch more then I expect from Pinot Noir but in a wonderful way
• excellent structure and balance, there is a strong acidic presence right now all the way through the palate, but the fruit is still allowed to show through

     What a wonderful treat, really. My father gave me his last bottle of the '02 & I think it drinks delightfully now, and most likely for quite a few years given the strength of those smooth tannins. We served this with a prime rib roast that I cooked on a bed of leeks and fresh thyme, steamed new potatoes, and a spinach salad I finished with crimini mushrooms roast with white truffle oil, sweet onions and charred bell peppers. The truffle oil really brought out some lovely notes in the wine - but so did the leeks!

                                                          (Shea Wine Cellars in Winter)

lesser known German varietal

I'm not talking about Faust, Geothe or Ludwig... this is another German - much less known. This is Muller-Thurgau!

This is a varietal created in the late 1800's (1889) in Germany by Dr. Muller (are you listening Dad? Doctors and wine go together - lol) and has been incredibly popular with winemakers there since then. Muller-Thurgau was created to combine the vast flavor profile of Reisling and an earlier ripening with large yield. This varietal does not generally age well, is blended into economical German wines, and is an easier way for winemakers to make a consistently fast return on their investment.

WINE A

clear visual

• ultra pale with the barest hint of meyer lemon yellow

clean nose; light notes of

• dusty minerality
• stonefruit, cherry & pear
• very clear nose makes me think stainless steel - no oaking

clean palate; 1 dryness, moderate+ acid (bright and crisp), moderate- intense flavors of

• lemon/lime citrus with grapefruit on the finish
• light minerality
• some soft wild flowers

light+body, light+alcohol (10.5%) and a decent length on the palate of 7-10 seconds

This is a wonderful expression of Muller-Thurgau. It's crisp and clean, with well-balanced acids and alot of fresh citrus fruit. This is a wonderful way to start and evening, or just to relax on the patio on a warm Spring afternoon.

2008 Montinoire Estate Muller-Thurgau, Williamette Valley (Oregon)

**excellent @ $20**

made with Organic grapes by the Marchesi family