It's Monday 01st December and in less than four weeks I will be celebrating my fourth anniversary in wine journalism. Only four years and yet it seems like so much longer because so much has happened and I have been fortunate enough to work with such gifted and passionate winemakers, cider-masters and distillers.

the inimitable and always congenial John Skinner of Painted Rock showing me the Cab Sauv that haunted me all year

It is because of their passion, and the way that this passion has inspired me, that I have decided to create The Chef and The Grape Top Wines and Spirits: a tribute to quality, value and passion.

My friends, we live in the Golden Age of Wine. Consumers have never in the history of (hu)Mankind had access to such a dizzying array of wines, of such rare calibre of excellence, from such distant corners of the world. And for a pittance! For a fraction of what one might have spent 100 years ago. We are blessed.

And here am I, perched in my corner of the office, where the vista unfolds at the base of the mountains; swaths of frozen gossamer already sheath the peaks and I can start to sense where the tree-tops, jade bristle-brushes waving in the winter breeze, will soon be sporting new coats of glistening ice-gems. And my mind wanders back through the year: the 2014 Vancouver Wine Festival, California Wine Fest, New Zealand Wine Fair and the amazing excursion from Oltrepo Pavese, Italy to name a few momentous tastings... yes, as I said, I am blessed.

These wines have been chosen out of about 2000 tasted in 2014 and have been chosen as much for Value as for sheer Excellence. That is to say, don't be surprised to see a $20 wine beat a $100 wine: to my mind, a $100 should be getting 92+points and if it doesn't then it's providing poor value. Just as a $20 wine that does score 92 points is providing amazing value.

Full descriptions are provided below:

TOP WINES AND SPIRITS 2014

1st place Sparkling: the STUNNING value of Cristalino

SPARKLING

1.    Cristalino Cava, Rose, Spain... 91+ points, $15+ CAD, $10-$12 USD

2.   Summerhill "Ariel", Kelowna, BC, Canada... 93 points, $85 CAD

3.   Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc-de-Noirs, Champagne, France... 93 points, $100+ CAD

honorable mention: Marques de Gelida, Gran Reserva Cava "CLAROR" (bio-dynamic), Spain... 92 points

WHITE

1.   Louis Latour 2010 Corton Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Burgundy... 94+ points, $120-$160+ USD

2.   Meyer Family Vineyards 2012 McLean Creek micro-cuvee, BC, Canada... 93+ points, $65 CAD

3.   M. Chapoutier Chante-Alouette Hermitage Blanc, Cotes-du-Rhone, France... 93+ points, $85 USD

honorable mention: Mudhouse single-vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand... 92+/93 points

ROSÉ

1st place Rose: David Akiyoshi's stunning Sangiovese

1.   David Akiyoshi 2012 Sangiovese rosé, Lodi, California... 92+ points, $18 USD

2.   Haywire 2012 Gamay Noir rosé, BC, Canada... 92 points, $25 CAD

3.   Cà del Gè Muscato Frizzante, Oltrepo Pavese, Italy... 92 points, €9

RED

1.   Black Hills 2010 Carmenere, BC, Canada... 95 points, $50 CAD (300 cases only)

2.   Thorn-Clarke "William Randell" Shiraz (Syrah), Barossa Valley, South Australia... 93+/94 points, $70+ CAD

3.   Bodega VistAlba Corte "A", Mendoza, Argentina... 93+ points, $65+ CAD

honorable mention: Painted Rock 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Skaha Lake, BC, Canada... 91+ points, $40 CAD

DESSERT

1.   Málaga Jorge Ordóñez "Old Vines", Portugal... 94 points, $75+ USD

2.   José Maria da Fonseca 20-year Moscatel de Setúbal, the Peninsula of Setúbal, Portugal... 93+ points, $65+ USD

3.   Dalva 1963 Colheita white-port, Duoro, Portugal... 93 points, $115++ USD

honorable mention: Hainle Vineyards 2010 Gewürztraminer Icewine, Peachland, BC, Canada... 93 points, $85++ CAD

1st place Spirits and perhaps the finest spirit I have ever experienced. #Magical

SPIRITS

1.   Marcel Trépout 1968 Armagnac, France... 94+ points, $150+ USD

2.  Pusser's 15-year, British Virgin Islands, West Indies... 93+ points, $90+ CAD

3.   Luksusowa potato Wódka (Vodka), Poland... 91 points, $25 CAD or less!

And now the chance to explain why I chose what I did...

SPARKLING

... small surprise to regular readers that Cristalino Cava has taken top place - AGAIN: absolutely stunning value for the money, this bubbly has garnered awards around the world and stunned sommeliers/judges everywhere. All you need to remember is that Wine and Spirit Magazine has given this their Value Award 3 years in a row - do I hear 4??

2nd place Sparkling: the Ariel from Summerhill, BC, Canada

... Summerhill winery's "Ariel" may be the most eloquent, elegant expression of sparkling wine I have ever had. I prefer this to Cristal and Dom Perignon, and consider it more on the level of Veuve Cliquet "La Grande Dame" but about $100 less per bottle! This is for lovers of mature sparkling wine (I just raised my hand) and carries nuanced tones of dried apricot, almonds and nougat, fresh baguette and cold, crisp, clean minerality amongst others.

... Nicolas Feuillatte may have crafted near-perfection with their 2012 Blanc-de-Noirs... I was overwhelmed by the levels, the concentration, the balance. This is one of the most beautiful expressions of Pinot Noir in Champagne I've had for years and, remember, 2014 Vancouver Wine Festival was themed on Sparkling Wine... I tasted more then a few :)

... I do love Cava, to be certain. That to one side, this offering from Marques de Gelida moves past the "limitations" of Cava and begins to express flavors and aromas most often only found in offerings from northern France for substantially more money! I was wholeheartedly impressed not only with craftsmanship but with the extreme value as this bubbly runs about $20 USD.

WHITE

... Louis Latour is a legend. This wine explains why: stunning layers, concentration, balance... the words are pitifully weak next to the wine. This is truly one of the most beautiful wines I've had in years and, hard for some to believe, is an Excellent Value at $150 USD. If one could find a Bordeaux red of this calibre, it would fetch $500++USD with ease and even a Champagne of this quality would be $300 USD. No - if you are a wine-lover, forget whether you love red or white. If I was a dinosaur I would be a "Bordeaux-a-saur" and yet even I acquiesce to this wines' greatness. If you do enjoy it, make room in your cellar for Chateau Musar white as well... a must!

Jak Meyer telling me about his Exceptional micro-cuvee Chardonnay

... I never expected to find one of the best values in Burgundy in Canada. Ever. And yet here I am telling you that, after working with Maison Jadot only last year, if you want fantastic value in Burgundian precision, Burgundian elegance, Burgundian intellect focused behind a purely Canadian terroir... pick up a case of the MFV micro-cuvee for about the price of 2 bottles of equivalent quality from Burgundy. An easy decision for me! Listen to the interview in the linked article above and, afterwards, you can ask Jak Meyer what Steven Spurrier thought of the wines if you don't believe me...

... wine has been grown in Hermitage for almost 2000 years. It took winemakers like Michel Chapoutier to turn that into #WorldClass product. This is, perhaps, not a record-setting year for scores from this region - but it is a singularly expressive vintage. This wine speaks with great verve of France, of region and of the varietal: 100%  Marsanne in this case. If you see this on a wine-merchant's shelf, purchase it - it is it's own reward.

... honorable mention went to Mudhouse and their inimitable winemaking duo for crafting the most eloquent expression of Sauvignon Blanc I have ever had. What Nadine Worley and Ben Glover have done is craft something so singular that it stands as an example of what is possible when people Believe. This carries depth and dimension far beyond its modest price-point and belongs to something far more grandiose. Small wonder Ben and Nadine, both, are recognized around the world for setting the highest standards for production and elocution.

ROSÉ

... David Akiyoshi was a name I had never heard before 2014, but a name that I shall now never forget. David is, to me, one of the most skilled winemakers I have (never) met. I've only tasted two of his wines; both were, shall we say, unusual to the marketplace - and yet utterly #WorldClass. This is one of the best Sangiovese I've ever had (for the price especially) and certainly one of the best rosé. If you haven't tried his wines yet then you simply haven't experienced the new taste of California!

a guest savoring the Vancouver moment with a glass of Ca del Ge muscato frizzante

... Haywire wines have been blazing a trail across British Columbia and Canada. To some (the un-learned) this means little. To those in the know, it means that these fine folks are kicking ass in one of the most progressive and competitive wine-regions on Earth. Smaller production than Algeria, BC is winning top honors around the world... and Haywire is winning awards amongst British Columbians. Will this be to your taste? I haven't the foggiest... but no one could try this and say it was anything less than superbly crafted.

... The first time I tasted the wines of the Oltrepo Pavese I was stunned into speechlessness (which
rarely, never happens). These "under-dogs" of the Italian winemaking community have been battling not only a growing international marketplace but, also, disdain from their own brethren. It seems as though Italians consider this region to be a "lesser" producer... to which all I can say is that genius is rarely recognized at home! Though I was mightily impressed with many wines, this rosé stood out as something unique and worthy of notice.

RED

... I'll perhaps never know if that sample bottle of Carmenere was really intended for me when my media pack was mixed with that of an older, more learned colleague - but I'll always be grateful for the confusion! For this was the second time I got to try the 2012 Black Hills Carmenere  and I knew - I knew - that it wasn't a fluke! This was one of the best red wines I have ever had in my life. And it was from Canada! Well throw out the rule-books and let's approach wine with an open mind because now anything is possible my friends! Graham Pierce (winemaker) and his team are pushing the boundaries of what is possible and they are doing this in a BIG way - expect greatness from subsequent vintages.

1st place Red and highest scoring wine of 2014: Black Hills Carmenere, BC, Canada

... After five generations of winemaking, I could expect competence, and hope for great professionalism - but who could predict that this family from South Australia would scoop award after award after award?! Well, anyone who is familiar with the portfolio could have... these guys are serious about their wine. The Thorne-Clarke "William Randell" takes Syrah/Shiraz to a new level that few wineries in the world can compete with and none can replicate. Ask me what I love most about it? I know that next year they'll put out the same level of product - or better. And the year after. And the year after that. And the year after that...

... Bordeaux is the standard by which all "Big Boys" measure their red-blends: Cab-Sauv, Merlot and perhaps Cab-Franc... except in Argentina where some bold wineries are including Malbec (one of the original Bordeaux varietals). In this we find Malbec with CabSauv and Bonarda... unexpectedly full of dimension, elegance and concentration this has the capacity to become a Mover-and-Shaker in the world of wine. For now expect to find this for a fraction of its true worth, and enjoy!

... my bias for BC wines comes not from being a native of British Columbia, because I'm not. My bias comes from the earnest toil that wineries are devoting to these new plantings; the absolute dedication to learning their land and coming to a fuller understanding of what the Land wants to express. None are taking that ideology more to heart than John Skinner and the team at Painted Rock on the bluffs above Skaha Lake in the Okanagan Valley DVA, British Columbia. This is not the best Cab-Sauv I had all year but it was so personal that the memory of that tasting has haunted me for months. Having watched the evolution of this winery's Chardonnay into what I consider Premier Cru level (in only a few years) I have no doubt that the development of this wine will be equally formidable. I advise purchasing sooner rather than later: the Red Icon (Bordeaux style blend) already sells in Singapore for $900/bottle.

DESSERT

... before this tasting I had never had a Málaga before: this spoiled me in the most beautiful way possible. The incredible concentration of flavors and aromas was staggering: warm Christmas spices like warm apple-cinnamon loaf fresh from the oven, grilled pineapple, pear chutney, fresh honeysuckle under a summer sun... and then there was the balance! Impeccable! Ripe sugars played off a near perfect harmony of lemon-balm full acid. For the price, this may be the finest dessert wine I have ever had.

3rd place Dessert: Dalva opened my eyes to an entirely new style of Port wines

... Moscatel de Setúbal is, much like any other grape, capable of greatness in the right hands. In the hands of José Maria it has grown beyond greatness and into something transcendent; this is an example to other winemakers of the power that comes with generations working towards a common goal. It is no flattery to say that this wine is on a level of craftsmanship and expression of region that many wineries may never reach: Christmas spices mixing with a hint of Raz-el-Hanout, baked earth, crusty bread fresh from the oven, almonds toasting in a pan... the aromas and flavors are so pure, so concentrated that they must be experienced to be believed.

... White Port. White Port?! Surely a joke; that's what I thought when I saw a winery owner at a stunning Portuguese wine-tasting with an aged white-port. I had always been taught that white ports were sub-standard; lacking in any true depth of flavor, concentration or finesse. I tasted the wine to be polite and was rewarded with one of the most unexpectedly decadent flavors of the year: rich nougatty-goodness with complimentary tones of slightly burnt honey, orange marmalade and orange blossom tea with the perkiest, most vibrant acid to balance the high levels of sugar. Harmonious. And this was my introduction to Dalva wines; producers of excellence and true pioneers in the crafting of vintage white port.

... I gave honorable mention to the Hainle vineyards Gewürztraminer icewine, and, small wonder; being the first producers of icewine in North America. This particular cuvée is named "Clare's vintage" in our house for it was purchased in honor of the birth of my daughter and what a spectacular way to celebrate it! Decadently sensual aromas of fresh apricot marmalade cooling in the window, over-ripe peaches dripping their honey-liquer on fingers as we devour them with gusto and an entire garden of summer flowers wafting through the room: yellow roses, daffodils, peonies, asters and dahlias. Brilliantly balanced, this will cellar for decades and reward the faithful.

SPIRITS

... I've met them: the snobs. Those who say that only Cognac is capable of true grace, balance and articulation. To them I quote the immortal John Cleese "phhhlllllllltttttttt" as I stick out my tongue. And then, were I in a graceful mood, I would pour them a dram of this heavenly elixir. The team at Marcel Trepout have been crafting some of the finest distillate in the world, and doing so for a very very long time. Remember that Armagnac was being produced 200 years before Cognac ever got started, and practice makes perfect! Aromas that blend and intertwine so seductively as to make the word “bouquet” utterly inept: salt-water toffee, white truffle shavings, a cacophony of Summer flowers melding into potpourri with fresh peaches/nectarines/pears and hints of wild thyme/bay leaf/sage/lavender growing on the hill... this is an Experience.

2nd place Spirits: one of the finest rums on the market today and easily scoring 93+ points.

... I'm a rum fan, no doubt about it. And, I've been an advocate for the craftsmanship of Pusser's rum; also, no question. But if someone would have told me that Pusser's 15-year would, in my mind, be challenging 18-year and 21-year Caribbean rums of long pedigree I would have been quick to argue: "I've been to Cuba!" I'ld state. "I've had brilliant examples of this work from some of the finest producers in the world!". A select group to which, for me, Pusser's now belongs without hesitation or reserve. For under $100 CAD this has been one of the finest spirits I have ever tasted: a harmony of orange zest, molasses, warm nutmeg and vanilla like a Christmas pudding just pulled from the oven and a big mug of black tea beside it... sublime. And it gives back to the community? Well that's like having your cake and eating it too :) Rhum-cake that is.

... bartenders everywhere are nodding their heads in agreement with me on my choice for third place; Luksusowa Wódka is most likely the finest quality spirit of it's class and out-performs competitors much more expensive than it is. My ultimate test for distillates is to taste them straight and at room temperature... a test for which most $20-something vodkas would make me cringe. The Luksusowa is beautiful! Crisp, clean and without any of the "petrol" notes one finds in many spirits under a certain price. I've had the pleasure of creating stunning infusions with it as well as many classic cocktails. I have never found a vodka for anywhere near the price that competes. #StunningValue

the reason why I celebrated that bottle of Marcel Trepout

I sincerely hope that this enlightens you to some of the great treasures out there in the world of wine and spirits in 2014. To the winemakers, distillers, agents and importers I worked with: many thanks again for your time and generosity throughout the year. It has been my great privilege to work with each and every one of you and I look forward to being able to share more of your stories, on an even larger media platform, in the coming year.

   Chef Kristof Gillese

As always you can find more recipes, free wine reviews and my notes on premium distillates and cigars on:

 Twitter @https://twitter.com/astudentofwine

 Facebook @ www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

 Pinterest @http://www.pinterest.com/KristofGillese/

 Google+ @https://plus.google.com/114010103418743183883/posts

Schug vineyards; 1996 Heritage Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

http://www.schugwinery.com/

In 1976 California was celebrating victory at "The Judgement of Paris".  Their wines took first place not only for white wine, but also for red in a blind tasting; paneled by some of the greatest palates in France. This brought an incredible influx of energy and enthusiasm for the potential of Californian wine-making as could scarcely be imagined only a few years previous.

Walter Schug had already been making wine there for 15 years.

walter schug

Before the "hooplah", before the bright-lights of possible stardom brought people of every walk to the sun-baked valleys, fog cooled coastline and craggy hills. Before all of this, Walter had seen the potential and had brought his bride across the ocean to a new land and a new life. And in the '70s he imagined a wine that no one else believed in: a true Bordeaux-styled blend, on the same level of quality, precision and finesse as could be found anywhere in the world. But Walter saw it being made on those rocky crags, warmed by pure California sunshine and cooled by the ever-present ocean breeze. He found someone else as adventurous as he was, a winery owner named Joseph Phelps and together they charted into the unknown. The year was 1974 and they made 670 cases, uncertain as to it's future. The wine was named Insignia and successive vintages went on to receive multiple 100-point scores and become one of America's most expensive wines, and most prestigious.

But we already know that Walter's passion for wine is bigger then passion; it is ardor, combined with zealotry in the most infectious manner possible. Having shared a glass or two with him, I can say that drinking Pinot Noir  with Walter Schug is like eating chocolate with my two-year old... the smiles get bigger and bigger, the laughter begins to spread and soon I've forgotten about taxes and mortgages and anything but how much fun I'm having. Because Walter loves Pinot Noir and he loves to share the special beauty it carries.

Perhaps I love Bordeaux styled blends in the same way. I admire, then, the man who created a Bordeaux blend that rivaled the quality of France, when no one thought it possible. And he continued that work even after leaving Phelps Winery and opening his own eponymous haven to all things from the grape...

Recently Walter's son Axel who runs the family business, now that Dad is "mostly-retired" after over 50 years of wine-making, sent me a bottle of their 1996 Heritage-Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. I won't preach about the merits of this wine; the score speaks for itself as does the tasting notes. But one should recognize that by 1996 Walter had been working with Cab-Sauv for over 15 years in his own winery and over 35 years in California.

They say that it takes 10,000 hours of practice to master a skill. Any skill. By that token, Walter had transcended mastery and come to Artistry. And it was with a very select group of "uber-professionals" that I shared this piece of oenological history, and only the wine-Mecca of Vancouver would serve as a proper setting: www.uvawinebar.ca

The cork was firm, decanting barely necessary, and as we all began to swirl, swirl, swirl our glasses a heady perfume lifted from the crystal cages. This was an Experience that we would not soon forget. Steve Edwards, general manager of UVA/Cibo was as impressed as I was and couldn't stop repeating

"It's so fresh~! I just can't believe how fresh it still is but so developed~! And '96 was a cool vintage - remember??"

Steve. Dude. In 1996 I was a 25-year old from Northern Alberta... the closest I got to knowing a vintage was when they started dating the month my beer was made in. No Steve, I don't remember how cool it was in Carneros that year, but I am truly in awe of the people who do remember things like that almost 20 years later. Just as I know with certainty that I will be remembering this bottle 20 years from now.

Here are my own notes from that evening, which were very much in unison with other, more educated palates then mine:

1996 Sonoma Valley Heritage-Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc

94+/95 points

• visual:   clear with light sediment, dark ruby core with substantial cherry/brick rim. Wears its age gracefully
• nose:   clean; fully intense developing bouquet of a myriad of berries: dark cherries, blackberries, blueberries, dark raspberries and currants... a primal musky cologne mixed with warm evergreen trees, deep earth tones, leather, Asian peppercorn and black tea
• palate:   clean; dry, ultra-bright full red currant acid, medium- fine yet textured tannin, medium- body, medium- alcohol (surprising 13.5% ABV), fully intense developing flavors that are brilliantly in-sync with the bouquet: a treasure-trove of flavors that combine and compliment each other. Minerality sings from start to finish and is the conductor that guides a full orchestra of components into a seamless harmony. World-class balance and structure, long+ length with flavors continuing to develop up to 60 seconds and longer
• conclusion:   truly surprising, this wine has years of life left in it. Only to share with those you truly love, respect and admire: 2013-2018+
• FOOD PAIRING:   what a crime to pair food with this, for what culinary creation could hope to match the concentration, balance and elegance? You must splurge my friend, for only with World-Class food can there be balance with this World-Class wine. Consider what celebrity chef Raymond Blanc is serving at the decidedly decadent le manoir aux quat'saisons:
• “GROUSE” RÔTIE, CHOU, LARDONS ET SAUCE AUX MÛRES
  Roasted new season grouse, cabbage, bacon and blackberry jus
  (may contain shot)

Of course, if you don't have the opportunity to visit Le Manoir, then you could just make it yourself - substitute a cornish hen for the grouse!

Italian chickpea fritters @ UVA

We live in a time when a 95-point wine from Pomerol or Pauillac will cost you an easy $500 or more, without any degree of age on the bottle. Even that same scoring wine, coming from one of the more "prestigious" houses of California would cost $300 without breaking a sweat. It beggars belief then that there have been times in the recent past when Schug vineyards was selling its wine at cost, just to allow them to enter new markets.

I love a deal. I love great deals on wine. I adore great deals on great wine, but this borders on theft. It is a steal, I tell you, to purchase a wine of this calibre for this price. Be assured, your friends and your competitors are actively searching for the next, best deal on Bordeaux styled wine. Perhaps it is only from looking at those who first crafted these wines in the New World that you will find your competitive edge.

The proof? As I've been known to say: The proof is in the glass my friend.

many thanks to the following:
Le Manoir au Quat'Saisons  for being an un-ending source of inspiration, http://www.manoir.com
Crush Imports  for bringing Walter and Axel's wine to Western Canada, http://www.crushimports.com/

As always, I look forward to your thoughts, comments and questions. Here, or: 

on Twitter @AStudentofWine

on Facebook @www.facebook.com/TheChefandTheGrape

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Signorello portfolio tasting, 2013

evolutionfinewines.com

signorelloestates.com

I was at this year's Vancouver International Wine Festival, perusing the many lanes of wine from California, and one particular set of wines kept drawing me back time and time-again:

It was the wines of Ray Signorello and Signorello Estates.

Ray Signorello

I had the pleasure of speaking with Ray just a few weeks ago, after I had sat with his local importer *(Evolution Fine Wines) for a portfolio tasting. Ray not only keeps a home in Vancouver as well as Napa, but also travels extensively to promote his business. I appreciated, then, Ray making the time to discuss his passion.

I had been under the mis-perception that Ray was a native Vancouverite and so wondered quite innocently whether Ray had felt accepted by the Napa Valley community when his father purchased land for a vineyard in the mid 70's. Ray explained that though his family moved to Vancouver in the 60's, they're actually old-school California; emigrating there in 1904 from Italy, with serious roots in the areas surrounding San Francisco.

And then Ray clarified my notions of a wine-community in Napa Valley...  when his family purchased their current vineyard in '77, there were only about 100 or so odd winemakers in all of California. A far cry from the over 450 wineries in Napa Valley alone today! The community was small, and yes - tight-knit as one would imagine. But these were a people, this was a time, when sharing was part of common manners. The Signorellos were welcomed into the fold, and the Signorellos became active in the community.

If watching hockey and fighting archaic liquor laws is an unwritten aspect to being a winemaker in BC, then re-investing in the Napa Valley Vintner's Association and supporting a globally recognized American AVA is part-and-parcel of being one in this region. But there's a way to supporting that brand that Ray Signorello feels is appropriate;

Some newer wineries have adopted an almost "Disney-land like" atmosphere. Far be it for anyone to tell another business-person what is wrong (or right), Ray simply states how he wants to run his business. Signorello Estates is a winery that produces world-class products; enjoy the pairings with food in their restaurant... one of the first in a winery in the region. Ray explains how this is something the winery did not to increase profits, but to increase the customers enjoyment and understanding of the wines.

A sensible way to showcase their efforts, I still wish I could drink the wine while riding a Ferriswheel... :)

The first wine I tried was a Chardonnay that I've come back to time-and-time-again over the years. This wine sings with precision and is eloquent in its expression of region; it was a genuine privilege to taste it again and make notes. Made in honor of Ray's mother (Hope Signorello), I must believe that she was an extraordinary woman to inspire such persistence from her son (the accountants have asked Ray to rip out the vines as they are no longer fiscally viable... Ray has refused and I for one hope he continues making this wine for decades).

2010 Signorello Hope's Cuvee Chardonnay

$89.99 BC

$59.99 Alberta

92+ points

93 points The Wine Advocate

first vintage affected by Luc Morlet, consulting winemaker
no cold stabilization

wild yeast ferment

100 % malolactic fermentation in French oak (40% new)

10 months on the lees
16 months in barrel (twice the local average)

30 year old vines, harvested at night

530 cases produced

• visual:   clear; medium straw core with silver highlights
• nose:    clean; fully intense and youthful aromas of spice and apples, stonefruit ripening and warm straw
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ green/yellow apple acids, medium+ body, medium+ alcohol (14.6% ABV), fully intense and youthful flavors which mimick the nose; a brilliantly precise minerality is immediately apparent with young honey tones singing on the tastebuds and lemon balm/citrus to follow, light toffee, seasalt and oak tones. Excellent structure, balance and length
• conclusion:   a brilliant example of varietal, this is a truly world-class wine meriting time and attention. A joy to drink now, and a pleasure to cellar... Enjoy 2013-2018
• FOOD PAIRING:   though an obvious choice for rich seafood dishes (Newburg, coquilles St Jacques) or veal, this makes me want my favorite butter poached rabbit! Need a recipe, just ask.

We followed the world-class Chardonnay with a lengthy foray into the great grape of Napa Valley: Cabernet Sauvignon. Certainly many varietals grow well here including Syrah, Merlot, Petit Syrah, Petit Verdot and others, but in this AVA Cab-Sauv must be the undisputed king!

As Ray's family had now been on this land for over 35 years, I was curious to discover what had evolved in their understanding of the terroir. Much like the monks had learned in the valleys of Tuscany, centuries ago, the Signorellos are learning which clones do best on which slopes. They are learning how to decrease yields to increase results and create a more interesting wine. Indeed, Ray stipulated that one of the keys to learning the land was "Keeping an open mind... because this (winemaking) is a never ending cycle of learning".

2010 "Trim" Cabernet Sauvignon

89-90 points

$19.99 (SPEC) BC

$11.99 Alberta

83% Cab-Sauv, 9% Merlot, 8% Syrah

• visual:   clear; fully intense bruised garnet core, bright cherry rim
• nose:   clean; fully intense and youthful aromas of bright fresh cherry blossoms, winter spices (allspice, nutmeg), plums and raspberries with worn leather and light caramel tones in the background
• palate:   clean; dry, fully intense raspberry/red currant acid, medium silky tannin, medium+ body, medium alcohol (13.8% ABV), medium+ intense and youthful flavors much in-line with the nose; the bright berries flavors dominate the front palate with a solid yet graceful oak-driven finish. Very good balance and structure, medium+ length
• conclusion:   truly competitive in it's price-point and meant to be enjoyed now. Enjoy 2013-2017
• FOOD PAIRING: a young wine like this has enough muscle to handle some truly big flavors in food, consider carne asada with roasted corn salsa, pickled okra and watermelon salad

2010 "Edge" Cabernet Sauvignon

courtesy WineAlign.com

91 Points

$29.99 BC

$21 @Costco Alberta

*2012 Decanter Wine Awards commended medal recipient

86% Cab-Sauv, 9% Syrah, 5% Merlot

aged minimum 15 months in French and American oak

• visual:   clear; fully intense garnet core with bruised cherry rim
• nose:   clean; fully intense youthful aromas developing with dark floral notes, plums, red and black raspberries, spicy mineral undertones
• palate:   clean; dry, fully intense red and black raspberry acid, fully intense green and grippy tannin, medium+ body, medium+ alcohol (13.8%), medium+ to fully intense youthful flavors much like the nose with bright/fresh floral tones balanced by warm earth and wood-notes (sandalwood). Excellent balance, very good structure and long- length
• conclusion:   basic rule-of-thumb for me is "However long it spends in barrel, give it twice as long in bottle before consumption". This can be drunk now, but will evolve for several years... best 2015-2020+
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   This wine is starting to display a variety of flavor profiles and as such, I want to give some focus back to the wine. Consider a lamb bolognese with crispy prosciutto chips, steamed baby vegetables and roasted garlic-black olive ficelle (bread). The wine has the fullness of acid to enjoy a pairing with fatty lamb, the stewed flavors in the sauce will contrast the freshness of the wine, salty prosciutto plays off berry tones as does briney olive whilst roasted garlic marries with the earthy wood notes

By the time I got to this part of the tasting, I was starting to get a bit of a sense of region from the red wines. Not just technically proficient, here was wine that was starting to tell a story of it's land and to me, that was exciting. I asked Ray what it was that made his land, his terroir, unique.

One of Ray's favorite parcels of the vineyard is the south-east corner, on a rocky hillside that has 2 different exposures; south and east... here it's a little cooler then in other parts because of the way the wind caresses the slope. Here the grapes are allowed (by Mother Nature) a little more hang-time, lowering the base alcohol and creating more balance in the finished product. This is the slope that speaks to Ray, and Ray is listening carefully, to make the wine that wants to be made.

2010 "Fuse" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

93 Points

$39.99 BC

$24.99 Alberta

82% Cab-Sauv, 15% Syrah, 3% Merlot

4th vintage for this wine

all varietals aged separately in French and American barrel for 15 months

barrels are racked every 6 months

4,539 cases produced

• visual:   clear; fully intense garnet core with plum/cherry rim
• nose:   clean; fully intense and developing bouquet; a thinking man's wine - green pepper bursts on ripe, red fruit with a tenacious streak of exotic leather, tobacco and graphite filling the backdrop. Stunning.
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ currant acid, medium+ soft/chewy tannin, medium+ body, medium+ alcohol (13.8% ABV), medium+ to fully intense youthful yet developing flavors much like the nose; for all that this wine carries Syrah, in taste it approaches Right Bank Bordeaux in it's delivery - rich, complex, red and blue fruit driving earth tones with precise minerality guiding the way. Excellent balance, structure and length... just give it time!
• conclusion:   a wine just barely coming into it's own... almost a shame to drink it now. Almost! Will develop in bottle for years and most likely decades. Enjoy 2015-2025+
• FOOD PAIRING:   forgive me - no food pairing. This is a wine I want to savour with good friends, a fireplace and a quiet evening. If I must pair it with food, then let me think of this like a Frenchman; cotes du beouf with foie-gras stuffed morel mushrooms, parsnip pave, and a salad of endive-raddichio-Asiago to start...

Undeniably one of the highlights of the tasting for me! The wines that follow are truly world-class but, for me, to get this quality and at this price is rare. This is an incredibly articulate wine, capable of being poured beside many many bottles far more expensive... have a rich uncle and want to WOW him? Pour him a glass of this. He'll thank you for it, and so will your wallet!

But tasting this wine made me think of the many legends in California that Ray and his father must have known and gotten to know in those early days - those cowboy days when Montelena was kicking ass and taking names in France. I asked Ray who his inspirations were and Ray responded with a litany almost too fast and furious to keep up with:

• the great Robert Mondavi; his passion for the industry and especially for Napa
• Harlan estates; for their unyielding pursuit of quality and dedication to excellence in single vision estates
• Guigal; for making truly momentous wines
• Romanee Conti; for making Romanee Conti a noun/verb/adverb/adjective in winemaking greatness
• Giacomo Conterno; for bringing global recognition and respect to the Piedmonte wine and it's aging potential

2009 Signorello Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

95+ points

95 points Wine Enthusiast

$97.99 BC

$63.99 Alberta

88% Cab-Sauv, 12% Cabernet Franc

100% Estate fruit

vines planted 1990

production 381 cases

• visual:   clear; deep garnet core with slightest cherry rim
• nose:   clean; fully+ intense youthful bouquet of spicy plum compote, wood tones, aged leather, savory underbrush (sous-bois to the French)
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ black raspberry acid, fully intense grippy/chewy tannin, medium+ body, medium alcohol (14.7% ABV), fully intense and youthful favors mimicking the nose starting with dark red berries and leather notes, to ultra dark cocoa (think 87%) and an ultra-precise graphite backbone. And it keeps evolving evolving evolving on the palate! Excellent balance, World-class structure, World-class length
• conclusion:   This stunning wine is already accessible, but in a "young-Barolo" manner; my friends in Piedmont don't drink Barolo (in general) before they are 10-15 years old... Drink 2013-2030+, in my humble opinion will start to peak around 2018-2020
• FOOD PAIRING:   consider: coffee crusted beef carpaccio on toasted rye, boursin creme fraiche, fresh thyme infused poached apricot... for me, with the manner in which this wine is displaying it's strengths, I would want to play off of the cocoa notes and the savoury tones. Coffee loves cocoa and the beef is a given, the toasted rye gives nutty quality not unlike some of the woodsy tones in the wine, the boursin is a bit bitter and creamy - playing well with the tighter berry flavors and finally the herb infused stonefruit will draw out the herb/sous-bois from the wine, making it feel a bit more Old World

By this time, I knew that I was in the presence of remarkable winemaking. And I knew that there would be young winemakers out there wondering "How do I ever get to this level?" Well... never one to mince words, I asked Ray what his advice would be to someone just starting out.

"It's important to know other wines - tasting other people's work and drawing from that experience." Ray answered, "then carve out your own style and stick to it! Be impassioned by it! Great wine is as much about the story behind the wine as it is about what's in the glass (or bottle)."

I'm pretty sure I know what Ray means by that - it's much the same advice my grandfather gave me when I said I wanted to be a writer... but Ray wasn't done yet! "Having your own vines - " he continued, "- that's the ultimate goal! That's what's going to give your wine - you new winemakers out there - that's what gives your wines true longevity."

2008 "Padrone" Napa Valley Estate Blend

96 points

93+ points Robert Parker

89% Cab-Sauv, 11% Merlot

100% Estate

yield a meagre 1.3 tons/acre

production 430 *6 bottle cases

native yeast fermentation

extended maceration (25 days)

maturation 20 months in 70% new Troncais, Nevers and Alliers oak

non-filtered

• visual:   clear; fully intense garnet core with slightly brickish cherry rim
• nose:   clean; fully intense developing bouquet of warm Winter spices, dark floral tones, eucalyptus, orange peel, ultra premium cigar tobacco (Romeo and Julietta anyone?), nuanced sous-bois abounds with a finish of ripening dark berries
• palate:   clean; dry, medium+ to fully intense black raspberry and black currant acid, fully intense chewy/silty tannin (a dichotomy I know - but it's what I got), medium+ body, medium+ alcohol (14.7% ABV), fully intense youthful flavoring perfectly aligned with the aromas; driven by crisp red and black berry tones and followed-through by an ultra-precise graphite minerality and generous oaky shoulders/savory herbs. World-class balance, structure and length!
• conclusion:   after tasting thousands of wines, and well over 100 California Cabs, I believe this is the highest score I have ever given a Californian wine; structure/balance/concentration, this wine has it all. Just an infant at present, this will evolve gracefully for decades. Enjoy 2018-2040 and possibly beyond
• FOOD PAIRING:   simple. Keep your food with this wine simple - to allow the wine to be the star. Consider sous-vide beef tenderloin forestierre (wild mushroom ragout), Swiss-styled potato rosti seared in duck fat, steamed garden carrots, roast celery and braised Belgian endive. Now I know I said keep it simple, but that doesn't have to mean a grilled cheese sandwich! All of the flavors on this plate are singular and intended to articulate that one flavor to the fullest potential. They also emphasize each other and the wine through contrast; contrasting texture, contrasting flavors  contrasting aromas... to sip the wine then taste a fresh carrot, another sip and some mushroom ragout, yet another sip and then the braised endive; each component bringing out different notes from the wine. The sous-vide beef is critical to the dish's success! A gentle cut like tenderloin, with very low fat, needs gentle cooking to preserve moisture - the sous-vide will give a texture like butter and enhance the beef flavors, not masking behind grilled flavors.

And then it was over. Like one of those dreams when you wake up and still see it playing in your mind... I could still taste the wine hours/days after the tasting. And here I was talking with a world-class winemaker who, I don't think, envisions himself as such. In fact, Ray even made a joke about the 100-point system and the bias that goes along with it:

"A man walks into a wineshop and the owner is there pouring samples. The man tastes the sample : bitter, sharp, aggressive, unbalanced...."

"The owner smiles, but Robert Parker gave it 95 points!"

"yeah - I'll take a case of it."

And that's the world of wine (or so it seems some days). Ray followed up on the joke by saying that people "need to trust their own palates more, and wine-writers less". Well, I've been saying much the same for years now and agree whole-heartedly.

I tried one last time to explain to Ray what his wines meant to me, now that I'ld had the opportunity to taste them in such a fantastic manner. Ray was quick to deflect the praise back to his entire team (the mark of a great leader) and I was reminded of a quote on the Signorello website:

"Winemaking isn't just what we do, it's who we are."

the patio at Signorello Estates

I look forward to your thoughts as you taste these wines for yourself...

let me know on Twitter @AStudentofWine

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!