Sunday, September 19, 2010

La Foret Pinot Noir, Bourgogne (Burgundy)



So all of you may know that the infamous Burghund or "Burghound" ( wwww.Burghound.com ) was in Vancouver, BC this weekend. Lucky me - I was invited to a private tasting and lecture that was held in his honor and with the infamous Allen Meadows presiding.

    The notes of that tasting will follow a bit later when I catch up, but for now I would like to talk about La Foret Pinot Noir from Burgundy in the aftermath of the encyclopedic knowledge I was allowed access to just yesterday. 
     Pinot Noir  is capable of greatness. Pinot Noir  is capable of depth and vivaciousness.

     The was once a man who said "The first duty of all wine is to be Red". Some would say "The first duty of all wine is to be Pinot Noir". I would say that what I took from the 2 hour lecture was that "The first duty of all wine is to express terroir". Express the place from whence the grapes come; tell me what it feels like when the sun comes up on the hills of the vineyard or when the breeze wraps itself in the cool of the evening. Tell me about the terroir.

2006 La Foret, Pinot Noir, Bourgogne (Burgundy)
12.5%, $22 CAN (BC)

  • visually moderate cherry color with slight ruby centre and slight orangish-brick rim

  • nose= moderate++ to full- intense leathery oaky notes, followed by the gamey-bloody meatiness, slightly hot alcohol with candied plum finish

  • moderate++ acids, moderate+ tannins, moderately intense palate the mimicks the nose but is muted by the overbearing acids & lacking in nuance

  • good body, slightly unbalanced structure
To me, this is a decent wine in-so-much as it actually has some character, which is not something I would normally associate with a $22 wine (from just about anywhere). But to me, this is also a flawed wine as the acids really do overpower the fruit & nuanced oak palate which could be excellent (for the price). I would serve this with the classic food of Burgundy; boeuf bourguignon or coq au vin. The acids would love a bit of beefy fattiness to balance them, but the unctuousness of the chicken would also pair well. Either way - serve this lean but well meaning wine with a bit of fat and enjoy an inexpensive introduction to Burgundy.

CIN  CIN!! SLAINTE !!


Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Pinot Noir, Bourgogne Style

My good friends at Marquis Wine Cellar (http://www.marquiswines.com/ ) have work diligently to bring the Burghund here to Vancouver for a series of tastings and seminars this coming month. In an effort not to be completely blank when people start talking about the great wines of Burgundy, I have opened a decent bottle of Pinot Noir, Bourgogne-style.

Bouchard Pere & Fils is an interesting wine story, as most stories that revolve around wine are. It turns out that the family can trace it's wine roots back  to the wine routes of the early 1700's and an ancestor who dealt with the trading of cloth, and subsequently wine. "Why wine?" you ask. "Why not!" I retort.

The photo (courtesy of the Burghund) tells the whole story. Really, who wouldn't want to be involved in this? But seriously there must be a good family story in there somewhere, and maybe one day I'll have the chance to learn it.

What I do know is that this dedicated family now has over 150 hectares of planted vineyard & is producing note-worthy wines (the notes are everywhere on the Net). One of the most predominant notes (for me) was the Burgundy report of 2009 ( http://www.burgundy-report.com/autumn-2009/bouchard-pere-et-fils-2009-update-2007s/ ) which says that the main problem for Bouchard's 2007 vintage isn't the wine itself, but rather the export market! That is to say, French winemakers are finding the same challenge faced by our own winemakers here in the New World: A Depressed Economy.

Fortunately, Bouchard makes wines for every budget, and the Reserve Pinot Noir comes in at a modest $22 CAN in BC and around $15-$17 in the US... good value, very good value indeed, when I look at the sadly small number of New World wines of quality that are sold for a similar price.


2007 Reserve Pinot Noir
12.5%, $22 CAN (BC)
  • visually a light ruby color with slight brickish rim
  • after being opened and vacu-sealed for 2 days:: pronounced fully intense aromas of Burgundian terroir (leathery gamey meat) I swear to god I smell calves liver and venison - please don't judge me - it's really what I smell. Fruit in the background - black and red berries
  • moderate+ acids, moderate+ chalky tannins, moderately intense palate similar to the nose but milder... soft leathery oak, a presence of gamey meat with the red berries coming through with more vigor, especially red currants and a dash of blackberry


  • moderate- body, good structure (flavors last 10 seconds+) and a good to very good balance - I would agree with some sommeliers who say they like to serve this in the Summer, slightly chilled
  • Serves with terrine. My mind naturally goes to little French boulangeries and a fat wedge of terrine forrestierre (with wild mushrooms & thyme), some cornichons (little sour pickles) and baguette. Vive le France! Vive le Bourgogne!!

Cin-Cin! Slainte!

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Luigi Bosca Reserva Syrah, Argentina

What is Rhone style wine? I tell you honestly, until only a week ago I really had no idea what it was.

     Today is a different story. Upon tasting the Gigondas, and comparing it to my recent excursions into Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape, I am rapidly coming up to speed on the flavor profile of Rhone style reds.

     Imagine my utter surprise then upon opening a bottle of Argentinian Syrah and smelling leathery oak, bloody gamey meat, deep black & red baie rouges (especially red and black raspberry) and a lingering hint of garrigue (bay leaves & wild thyme). It is the first time I've ever had such depth from an Argentinian Syrah and all I can say is: "I want more."

2007 Reserva Syrah from Luigi Bosca, Argentina
14.5%, $25 approximately in Alberta - not available in BC **EXCELLENT VALUE**
  • deep plumy garnet center with marked brickish rim
  • moderate++ to fully intense nose; notes above
  • moderate+acids, moderate+(+) tannins, moderate+ intense flavors very in-line with the nose with the marked appearance of lilies and irises; a distinct floral hit on the palate
  • moderate body, moderate+ hot alcohol, very good structure and good balance
A great find, even if it was my father who found it and gave me a bottle (*grin*). If it was available in BC, it would be about $32-$35 and even at that price, still (IMHO) a great value. This to me immediately brings to mind the fines vintages of Gigondas (most likely as I was drinking it only yesterday)... rich and full of flavor and punch, perhaps it lacks a little in finesse, especially at the end of the palate - this wine is also only 3-4 years old and could easily age another 4-6 years I believe.

Drink with pasta bolognaise (as I'm doing right now to marvellous success), braised lamb shank or beef short ribs.

Cin-Cin! Slainte!

Monday, September 6, 2010

Domaine Brusset, Gigondas

Those who are "in the know" (Robert Parker for one, and Mike - my product consultant at the local BCLB Speciality Store for two) say that Domaine Brusset ( http://www.domainebrusset.fr/ ) is the premier winery of the Gigondas.

     Who am I to argue?

     My wife (Mrs AStudentOfWine) and I were to have a somewhat celebratory dinner & those who know my wife know she loves, nay, adores the classic Chateauneuf du Pape blend of Grenache, Syrah & Mouvedre. Those who know me, know that I rarely can afford said classic blend (starting at $60 CAN in BC, but really costing $90+++ for a decent wine.

     And so I stopped by my local BCLB spec store & told my woes to Mike, who recommended the Domaine Brusset "Tradition Le Grand Montmirail". We drank it with a beouf bourguignon with crimini mushrooms & roast elephant garlic & loved every drop!

2007 Domaine Brusset, Gigondas,
Tradition Le Grand Montmirail
14%, $34 CAN (BC) **FANTASTIC VALUE**
  • visual deep ruby centre with slightest brick rim
  • deep moderate++ intense nose starting off with lots of black and red fruit (baies rouges, etc); black & red raspberry, leathery oak (only new French oak is used for this blend & it shows), levels of bloody, gamey meatiness (in the best of all possible ways)
  • moderate+ acids, moderate++ tannins, moderate++ intense palate: the palate mimics the nose impeccably
  • moderate body, very good structure and balance, slightly hot alcohol
All in all a $60 wine for $30. Easy decision next time I need a g-s-m blend, right? However! It is said that these wines can age easily for another 10 years and given the acid/tannin/structure, I would agree. I would also say I can't wait to try this wine as a 7 year or 12 year cuvee.

Love Chateauneuf-du-Pape? You will adore this.

CINCIN! SLAINTE!

Friday, September 3, 2010

Silk Scarf Winery, Summerland, BC

My wife has the patience of Job (a biblical reference for the non-religious audience members)... at the end of last August (2009) we ended up pulling into Silk Scarf Winery in Summerland, BC.

     It wasn't much to look at, a small rancher-style home with a short gravel driveway. There was a sign leading us towards what looked like the patio of the home, but waiting on the other side of the patio glass doors was another world. A tastefully minimalist decorated sitting room with truly artisan wines - and I mean world class. The winemakers wife was pouring small samples for us, and everything we tried that day was well worthy of comment.

      And comment I did! "Oh the Pinot Noir!" I exclaimed!

     "Well why don't you buy a bottle?" Mrs Astudentofwine asked.

     "I couldn't," I said. "I just couldn't."

     You see, we had already bought over a case of wine, and it was only day 3 of our mini-vacation. I had to show restaint. I had to show that I wasn't going to be a slave to my senses... I persevered and stubbornly refused to buy the $22 bottle of Pinot Noir that I was yearning for. It was my wife who paid for that stubborness.

     For almost a year to the day - she listened to me endlessly as I extolled the many virtues of Silk Scarf and their mighty Pinot... "truly one of the great Pinots of BC!"I would say.

     My wife detests Pinot Noir.

     And so this year was more then a vacation for me: it was the fullfillment of a year's anticipation. And it was also a test for myself, in a very real and genuine sense...

     Last summer I was a neophyte; completely unschooled in Wine. This year I had the ISG Level 1 under my belt, tasting notes on over 500 wines; a new outlook... would I taste the Silk Scarf wines the same way?


2009 Viognier
13%, $22 **EXCELLENT VALUE**
  • fully intense bouquet; intense summer floral, ripe stonefruit & orchardfruit. I give this wine th ehighest compliment I can give any Viognier... it tastes and smells like it came from John Albans vineyards in California.
  • full acids, the moderately intense palate does not live up to the nose in intensity, but perfectly mimicks the qualities. Slight dusty finish and layers of the stonefruit; first peach, then honeyed apricot
  • brilliant wine. Brilliant value! This wines smells like a $60 wine and drinks like a $40(+) wine. Any way you look at this, it's great value for you (and me). Serve with terrine, cold smoked chicken sandwiches, smoked duck carpaccio (etc)
2009 Riesling Muscat
$22 **EXCELLENT VALUE**

  • moderate+ intense nose filled with German style Riesling notes: plastic, petrol - slightly hot alcohol and then the  Muscat at the end with soft exotic floral and fruit

  • moderate+ acids, long dry chalky finish, moderate+ intense palate of cherries in all their gloray, honeyed apricot, Anjou pear finishes

  • Brilliant. I know I'm repeating myself -but wonderful wine. This is my ideal match for a slow roast of pork loin with roast apples & Calvados pan jus.
2009 Rose
$22

  • moderate- intense nose of cherry blossoms, vanilla & orange zest

  • moderate+ (lemony) acids, long long citrus finish with a minor appearance from the cherry notes

  • I thought this would be a lovely pairing with dessert! Try it with a black forst cake and watch how the acids balance out the richness of the cake. Other ideas>? How about with a terrine of foie gras and once again, the acids will balance the decadent richness
2007 Merlot
$27
(13 months french oak)

  • visually rich ruby, showing a slight brickish rim

  • nose is moderate intense; some hot alcohol off the top, followed by red berries fruit (baie rouges) especially red and black currants, slight dusty finish

  • moderate++ acids, moderate++ tannins, moderately intense palate with the flavors matching the nose impeccably

  • I would say to give this wine another year or so in bottle to allow the tannins to soften, allowing the fruit fuller expression. Then I would serve it with a simple beef carpaccio or preferably steak tartare.
2006 Pinot Noir
(not available any longer)

  • moderately intense nose of dusty chalky cherries in all their splendor

  • moderate acids, moderate tannins, moderate body with the palate mimicking the nose impeccably

  • lovely wine to sip on it's own - or serve it with a lightly seasoned roast beef
2007 Pinot Noir
$32 **Very Good Value**

  • brickish rim with moderate ruby centre

  • same nose but with just a hint of pepperiness (milder then a shiraz)

  • moderate++ to full- acids, moderate+ tannins, thinner body then usual - one hopes that another year in bottle may balance it out
2007 Shiraz Reserve
$60 **World Class Wine**
(18 months French oak)

  • here they are using marvellous technique and laying the wine with Viognier skins - dazzling what it does to the dimensions and levels of flavor

  • Fully intense unique bouquet: floral notes from the Viognier and garrigue from the Shiraz - layers upon layers

  • moderate+ acids, full+ acids, fully intense flavors that mimick the nose but include 85% dark chocolate, and dark berries like blackberries and perhaps mild saskatoons

  • If you have the money - BUY THIS WINE. Seriously. I could open this with any of my wine-geek friends and they would all drool.... serve with duck confit and a smoked onion & cherry compote on toasted brioche.
A world class winery in a sleepy town in Summerland, BC. There are very few restaurants carrying these wines right now - but they are all places I know and respect: John Bishop's, Blue Water Cafe, Cin Cin, etc... come and discover for yourself what a few of us lucky people have been hoarding to ourselves!

Saturday, August 28, 2010

Shea Wine Cellars, Willamette Valley

Pinot Noir: love it or don't... there really doesn't seem to be any in between.

     Myself, I love the damned grape. It was one of my first true joys in wine; tasting a great Pinot Noir. Many years later, I still derive the same pleasure - accentuated only be a deeper appreciation for what tremendous work goes into those delightful results.

     My wife, however, can pinpoint a Pinot Noir being opened on the other side of the room because of it's unique characteristics that my wife says: "Are better appreciated by other people.". She truly dislikes it, and will only grudgingly even taste from my glass.

     Sometimes there are exceptions even to that rule, and Shea Wine Cellars  ( www.SheaWineCellars.com )just might be it! Situated in the Willamette Valley of Oregon, Dick Shea started planting grapes on his land in the later 1980's. 95% Pinot Noir, the rest is Chardonnay (which I haven't tried yet), Dick has a truly impressive array of sub-plots and clones.

     The clone I tried is Pommard Clone, which was brought to America in the 1940's & (In My Humble Opinion) is not widely used at present. The winemakers who do use it however, are producing world-class results.

2002Pommard Clone Pinot Noir
$unknown - best guess about $100-$120 Canadian for this vintage if you bought it today
14.4%
  • deep ruby centre with established brickish rim, slight sedimentation
  • full- to moderate++ intense bouquet; all manner of cherries, black currant, leather, slight tobacco of mild cigars, slight heat from the alcohol, finish with a sweetness reminiscent of blueberries
  • moderate acids, moderate tannins, palate equals the nose in all respects
  • moderate body... almost a touch more then I expect from Pinot Noir but in a wonderful way
  • excellent structure and balance, there is a strong acidic presence right now all the way through the palate, but the fruit is still allowed to show through
     What a wonderful treat, really. My father gave me his last bottle of the '02 & I think it drinks delightfully now, and most likely for quite a few years given the strength of those smooth tannins. We served this with a prime rib roast that I cooked on a bed of leeks and fresh thyme, steamed new potatoes, and a spinach salad I finished with crimini mushrooms roast with white truffle oil, sweet onions and charred bell peppers. The truffle oil really brought out some lovely notes in the wine - but so did the leeks!
                                                          (Shea Wine Cellars in Winter)

Saturday, August 14, 2010

Sonoran Estate Winery, Summerland BC

Let me start by saying that genuine hospitality is a dying art form. True, genuine, hospitality where one feels like an old friend coming home rather then a stranger who has walked in the door uninvited...

Sonoran Estate Winery has an atmosphere of genuine hospitality.

My wife (Mrs AstudentofWine) and I were in Summerland, BC last August for a well earned week of r&w (rest and wine - of course) when we almost literally stumbled across Sonoran. A nice looking brown home at the end of a short gravel driveway, one side of the house looks out over Okanagan Lake and the valley. There is shade, and cool tile floors, and someone always behind the counter ready to pour a taster of what-you're-in-the-mood-for.

This visit, I had the distinct pleasure of meeting Adrian, the winemaker. A jovial fellow, we got down to tasting wine in earnest quickly and he whisked me away to the inner workings of Sonoran in the "cellar". There were many treasures hidden there, and Adrian was kind enough to let me sample more then my fair share. I owe a debt of gratitude not only to him for letting me sample such truly excellent craftsmanship - but to my wife as well, for taking over the driving at that point.

2008 Riesling/Gewurztraminer
13.5%, $14

  • nose is moderate++; full of roses & summer floral with a background of grapefruit & young stonefruit (peaches before they reach maturity)

  • moderate++ acids, moderate palate (same as the nose)

  • moderate (to mod-) body, moderate alcohol, moderate+ structure
I find this to be an appealing summer patio wine; inexpensive and good value for the money - it has good balance and structure and drinks easily on its own. Not my choice with food - but if pressed would serve it with lighter food like a shrimp salad croissant or crab salad.

2009 Oraniensteiner
13.0%, $16

  • moderate+ intense nose; hot alcohol, citrus notes (especially grapefruit), and candied banana

  • moderate- (soft) acids, moderate palate starting with ripe stonefruit and finishing with limey terroir

  • full- body (this wine has a big mouth feel without any of the flabbiness), full alcohol (serve it well chilled to keep from overpowering), brilliantly developed structure - drink this wine now!
Great wine - I loved every drop, but would once again warn not to serve it above 14C. Serve with a breast of smoked duck and a spicy apricot compote or relish!

2009 Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc
60% Pinot Gris, 14%, $18 **EXCELLENT VALUE**
  • moderate+ intense nose of citrus and mild herbaceousness or garrigue
  • full- acids with a fully intense palate of the limey terroir... citrus and herbs come into play and the finish is almost gravelly
  • moderate- body, moderate alcohol (it doesn't feel like 14%), excellent balance and structure
Just a well made wine and that's all there is to it. I could, and have, sipped this on a patio in the mid-afternoon whilst reading a book - or - as the start to a meal on a hot evening when the palate really needs some help to open up. Serve this with BC chevre (goat's cheese) in any dish & prepare yourself for a treat.

2009 Riesling
12.3%, $18 **EXCELLENT VALUE**

  • moderate+ to full- intense bouquet of layers upon layers of honey, apricots, peaches, small yellow flowers

  • moderate acids awash with the limey terroir of the vineyard and a long long long crisp, clean finish

  • moderate body, moderate alcohol, brilliant balance and structure
What a treat. This certainly appealed to my wife, who is a true fan of Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Oraniensteiner and any of the aromatic whites. I loved it because the dry palate balanced the richly sweet nose perfectly. I would love to serve this with cold smoked duck, seared scallops, coconut prawns... the list is truly endless. Fondue!

2008 Gewurztraminer
$17

  • full- intense nose with multi layers of ripe stonefruit, floral upon floral and a ton of honey

  • moderate++ acids (perfect to balance the nose) but I noticed a slightly sour aftertaste to the acids
2009 Riesling Gewurztraminer
13.3%

  • light nose, very faint and hard to open; lime, stonefruit, floral, gravel

  • moderate++ to full- limey acids

  • moderate+ body, slightly hot alcohol, long finish
Once again, a wine I would ensure was 12C to 14C and no warmer or the alcohol seems quite hot. I thought this was a perfect pairing with any of your fatty meats like pork loin (wrapped in bacon) or a cream based sauce - Coquilles St Jacques perhaps!

2007 Merlot

  • visually starting to show a light cherry/brick rim with dark ruby centre

  • moderate+ intense nose shows leather (26 months in oak!) and the fruit is just making an appearance with plums

  • moderate++ acids, moderate++ tannins all interfere with the palate where, once again, the plummy fruit is just starting to appear

  • Great Structure!
I would give this wine at least another 9-12 months before tasting again.

2007 Malbec
13.5% **BUY THIS WHEN IT BECOMES AVAILABLE @ $25**

  • (barrel sample)

  • moderate+ intense nose; dark baies rouges or red berries, earthy terroir with a hint of pepper

  • moderate acids, moderate+ slightly chewy tannins, moderate palate; filled with earthy plummy goodness

  • moderate(+) body, moderate+ alcohol, good balance and a long, developed structure
     I have been saying (since the fateful day that I tasted this wine) that, In My Humble Opinion, this wine will change the way that we perceive BC red wine. Not because of the quality - which is excellent... there are quite a few BC wineries producing quite a few excellent quality red wines. Many of which are superior to this one (although I would say the same echelon).

     It is because of the quality versus the price.

     $25 for a BC red of great quality is a rare, rare find. I was truly impressed with the level of workmanship & look forward to sharing many a bottle of this with many of you.

2007 "Forbidden Love" Icewine
11.2%, $30, Pinot Noir & Pinot Blanc blend **Very Good Quality**

  • fully intense bouquet of intense garden floral, honey upon honey & candied almonds

  • moderate++ acids, with the palate mimicking the nose completely
Icewines & Late Harvest wines are not usually my thing. But.
     But this has excellent balance, a lovely contrast between sweet, honey floral nose and crisp almost "pop in your mouth with lime zest" acids. Overall a very good quality product & well worth the money.

2008 Erenfelser Icewine
13.2%, $30, **Excellent Value**
  • moderate++ intense nose, full of notes of dried raisins & reminding me of Olorosa Sherry with the particular nose that the Solera system imparts
  • full- acids, rich developed palate with the usual fruit & floral & honey - but once again the dried raisin flavor stayed on the palate for an incredibly long time
Much more my type of desert wine - I could almost see this paired with foie gras au torchon and a green apple and raisin chutney, some fresh rosemary potato bread & a small wedge of pecorino cheese.

2006 Oraniensteiner Icewine
11.5%, $35 **Very Good Value**
  • fully intense nose rich with all overripe stonefruit: peaches, nectarines, apricots & of course honey
  • moderate+ to full- acids, palate mimicks the nose again but with the same sense of dried raisins and a ton of residual sugar (too much for my personal tastes)
  • moderate++ body, moderate- alcohol, very good structure
      Another well crafted wine - much more to my wife's tastebuds then to mine, but thoroughly enjoyed by both of us.
_________________________________________________________________________

     So a wonderful way to spend the afternoon in Summerland, BC... sitting up on the side of the hill on a cool patio, sipping at well crafted wines (did you know they have a chef now?). You can have a little something to nosh on and just watch the world pass by.

     A truly hospitable & amenable place to visit. We ended up walking out with almost an entire mixed case of wine - some to cellar (the icewines can last for years) and some to share this summer with friends and family... as it should be.