2007 Piesporter "goldtropfchen" Riesling spatlese weingut St URBANS-HOF

Riesling; the longest-lived wine on the planet. Period. There is a barrel of Riesling in a German museum, which is still drinkable and tasted every 5 years by a panel of experts, from the mid-1600's.

   That's right, the wine is almost 400 years old.

   I thought an exclamation point at the end of that last statement would be overkill, but I'm sure you felt the implied emphasis! Riesling is a kind of "magical" varietal and no one is (arguably) better at working with this ancestral vine then the Germans. Baden, the Mosel, Pfalz or the Rheingau ; all of these areas and more, every part of Germany lends something different to it's wine. Some give a clean-slate minerality, others- ripeness of fruit, whilst some offer a baked-honey-utterly-lavish finish to the late-harvest wines that most of the world only dreams of.

   Yes, in Germany the mighty Riesling  becomes more then the sum of it's parts.

   And in Germany, depending on when in the picking season the grape is harvested, the sums of those parts will be given a different name. I suppose I should start by offering that these ingenious folks even have different names for varying levels of quality. Not given arbitrarily, all wines are given rigorous tasting and testing before judgement:

1. Deutcher Tafelwein : basic table wine
2. Deutcher Landwein :  a little better quality, from one of the specific 19 regions
3. Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA):  here's where we start to find some good quality; region specific to only 13 areas... these wines start to speak about where they come from
4. Prädikatswein :  the best quality; this is a new title replacing a much longer one that was easily confused with the third level (especially for non-German speakers)... although these can be dry, they almost always have a lip-smacking, dentist-(un)approved residual sugar. These wines tell a story, and tell it well.

St Urbans-Hof slopes

   So alot of information to digest, but this article is going to focus on one  Prädikatswein in particular: the St Urbans-Hof Riesling Spatlese... always a thing of beauty, this particular vintage (2007) is a true gem. I truly am thankful to the friend and colleague who turned me on to this small band of artisans. 

   Of course, this isn't the first article I've written about the family run winery from the Mosel region ( http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2011/03/riesling-st-urbans-hof-mosel-germany.html ) and I imagine that it won't be my last. These wines are filled with depth, concentration, balance and offer good to excellent value at any price-point.

   You doubt my words? Fine with me, for the proof (as always) is in the glass my friends.

2007 piesporter, goldtropfchen, Riesling-spatlese weingut 

St Urbans-Hof (winery), Leinwen, Mosel, Germany

$55 regular, on-sale at some speciality stores in BC for $39

93 Points
http://www.urbans-hof.de/

wine merchant in BC/Alberta: www.renwine.com
 

let me diverge from my normal style of article and talk about the label for a second, and the litany of words/names that appear.  

piesporter :   name for the (small) wine-growing region around the village of Piesport on the north bank of the Mosel river. Approximately 69 HA
goldtropfchen :   a term used to signify a this regions' top-level wine meaning "little drop of gold" 
Riesling-spatlese :   these Rieslings almost always carry a richer currant of ripe fruit flavors; I often find stonefruit dominant in tasting notes, and because of a generally higher level of residual sugar often have a fuller body and higher alcohol 
weingut :  meaning an estate which is growing grapes for wine, as opposed to purchasing their grapes, purchasing their juice, or growing their grapes for someone else's wine
Leinwen : is the name of the small town and Mosel as stated earlier is the region

• visual:   clear; ultra pale straw core with gold and silver highlights
• nose:   clean; fully intense and developing aromas of warm hay, honey, ripe stonefruit and stewed apricots, a super-intense line of crisp/vibrant minerality is piercing and yet balances thr ripe fruit perfectly
• palate:   clean; off-dry (64.7 grams sugar/L), full (yellow grapefruit) acids, moderate- body, moderate- alcohol (9% ABV), fully intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose with that strong current of minerality running rampant throughout... a strong spicy finish reminiscent of great Gewurztraminer. Excellent balance, very good structure and long length
• conclusion:   already drinking well, this wine has the acidity and sugar levels to ensure a long life in the cellar, but will not develop appreciably. Drink 2012-2025
• FOOD PAIRINGS:   use the sugars to best effect! Consider grilled lobster with fresh Thai basil coconut sauce on roasted peanut rice noodles and steamed gai-lan ... lobster loves Riesling  and a slightly spicy sauce will play well off the residual sugar in the wine. The mineral tones will embrace the earthy flavors from roasted nuts and the fresh vegetable will act as a little palate cleanser.

looking DOWN the slopes at St Urbans-Hof

    So many names, so many descriptive words. The Germans seem determined to make something as simple as fermented grape-juice as complex as they can. But what are we talking about? What is wine?

   Wine is more then just the grapes, more then just the fermentation process, or the maturation. Wine is more even then the people that perform all these tasks and more. Wine is a sometimes magical process that allows the grapes to tell the story of the land and the people that they come from.

   Perhaps a simple concept, but not an easy task. St Urbans-Hof has managed to do just that; with the German concepts of name, name, naming I can start to understand that story a little better from the moment I pick up the bottle. I know where this wine is from, and a bit about the people who made it. They're proud of what they've done, to put their name on the label so prominently.

   And so they should be

Nik Weis, current winemaker/proprietor

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Summerhill winery, Kelowna, BC

You ever have one of those perfect days? The sun is shining, the birds are singing and the world is your oyster...

the view from Summerhill vineyard

   I was having one of those days just a few weeks back; I was driving back from the awe-inspiring Wine Summit at the Post Hotel in Lake Louise, Alberta ( http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2012/07/post-hotel-wine-summit-2012.html ) and the roads were absolutely clear. I had left first thing in the morning and was set to arrive at Kelowna's Summerhill Winery ( www.summerhill.bc.ca/ ) for lunch and a short interview with the winemaker Eric. If you're not familiar with this organic winery, you should take note: they are now the first certified bio-dynamic winery in British Columbia!

   So anyways, little did I know that I was going to meet a kindred spirit in Eric, enjoy a dozen wine samples with lunch and miss my evening class of the French Wine Scholar program in Vancouver. Ok, perhaps the extra wine made my afternoon snoozier then expected, and perhaps missing my class made my program more challenging then it already was, but I wouldn't have changed a thing.

   Eric is a very calm fellow; quite analytical in nature (seemingly) and genuinely approachable with a superbly dry sense of humor. Regardless that it was a summer day with the bottling line cranking out a new vintage full-throttle. Regardless that icewines were still fermenting and the executives clamouring for Eric to work some magic and get them into the bottle line. And regardless that this is Canada's most visited winery, which was filled to the brim with eager guests, Eric still took the time to welcome me into the inner sanctum of Summerhill's wine cellar gracefully. Of course, he may just have wanted to escape the early June 30+C heat as much as I did!

   We chatted for a bit as he led me through the cavern, about the growing conditions at the end of 2011. Everyone I've spoken to has talked about the challenges that Fall with inclement weather; too much moisture after near-drought and then low temperatures resulting in a shut-down of the vines. Summerhill was no exception to these conditions but, as a wise person I know one said:

   "Anyone can make great wine in a great year... you have to be an idiot some years not to make great wine. But the true professionals can make very good wine every year."

   Eric adapted to the challenging conditions in, I imagine, his calm and un-ruffled manner and he made icewine. Syrah icewine, Cab franc icewine, you name it - it became icewine (40 acres worth). We tasted some of those, and all were still actively fermenting.

2011 Riesling icewine
 92+ points

• vibrant  golden straw core
• bright citrus notes, bright summer floral, yellow grapefruit zest
• stunning balance this is zip, zip, zippy! Ultra refreshing this is my kind of icewine with full acidity, candied lemon zest notes running rampant, great balance, structure  with a strong start and finish. Very good concentration

2011 Viognier  icewine
 91 points

• murky in the glass (still fermenting)
• on the nose medium concentration of rich floral and stonefruit... layer upon layer with minerality underneath
• full acids, medium+ concentration focusing on nectarines and kumquats. A little lean right now but expect it to fill out as it matures

 2011 Zweigelt  icewine
 91+ points

• also murky in the glass, rich ruby-purple tones
• slightly sea-salt and traditional red berry aromas with a hint of warm earth
• full acids balance the sugar high, bright fresh berries full of life, very inviting... it's not terribly complicated but triumphs in it's simplicity (as opposed to being monotonous). Good concentration, balance, structure

We then had a good chat about cultured yeasts vs wild yeasts and what they bring to the party. Eric loves that every yeast will develop it's own priorities in flavenoids in the wine... simply put, every yeast enhances different aspects. I had assumed that perhaps because Summerhill embraces organic and bio-dynamic principles, that they would be using wild yeasts, but Eric cautions about the volatility of doing this... he knows what he wants to develop from his vineyards and to achieve these goals is using over 25 cultured yeasts judicially.


2011 Merlot icewine
 90+ points

• murky umber-ruby core
• medium+ sugary fresh berry notes with light red floral
• full acidity with those zip-zip-zippy acids balancing the fresh red berry flavors... excellent balance and concentration but a very linear flavor at present

2011 Syrah   icewine

 90+ points

• same umber-ruby core
• classic aromas of stewed and fresh plums, a touch of cocoa powder and blueberry
• medium+ acids that are well balanced, inviting with a slightly spicy finish and a developed Irish shortbread characteristic

 And finally I came down off of the sugar-rush in time to taste some wine that was being bottled as we spoke. We spoke about how Eric perceives his Cab Franc needing American oak instead of French, and how he prefers not to fine his wines with eggwhite or gelatin (making it vegan-friendly).

2009 Cab Franc
 91+ points

• almost 2 years in American appellation oak, 10% new. Coopered in BC
• racked but not fined
• medium+ to fully intense aromas; fresh red berries, rich savory earthiness, a little Kelowna sous-bois, touch of menthol-eucalyptus
• medium+ red and black currant acids, medium+ chalky tannins, medium body, medium+ concentration of flavors red and black raspberries, old leather, a hint of red meat/roast beef. Excellent balance, structure, length

 We moved just a few feet further and Eric poured something bright and vibrantly purple into my glass... I being who I am, drank without asking any questions. "Wow" I say, "this is bright, and fresh, and lovely. What is it?"

  "Cab Sauv" responds Eric, completely stunning me. This wine drank like a young Gamay Noir; super lively and understated tannins. How could this be? It was because we were tasting it before the barrel aging and what a treat it was. I failed to take proper notes on that wine, but it did lead us into an engaging conversation about flavor profiles in different varietals. Eric commented several times on how the preference in tastes is different in every region of the world, and winemakers need the business-sense to pay attention to that as they develop what has come in from the vineyard. "Who's showing up to the party" is the way he likes to put it.

   Eric and I moved our party out onto Summerhill's large deck at the restaurant overlooking the lake. There we started a leisurely lunch accompanied by a bevvy of still and sparkling wines. A word to the wise, make the time to stop here for a bite to eat! Knowledgeable, friendly staff, organic and responsibly-harvested foods prepared with definite skill and, compared to Vancouver, incredibly reasonable prices.

2008 Zweigelt
 $35, 91+ points

•  282 cases produced
• traditional slightly herbaceous, fresh fruit with leathery undertones (French oak, nothing newer then 3 years old)
• crisp yet approachable acidity that melds seamlessly with medium- chewy tannins... flavors very similar to the nose with the minerality that I love this varietal for. Excellent balance, structure and long length. Worth every penny

    I must give a nod to the chef because now when I listen to the recording from the early part of the meal, there are extended bouts of silence; punctuated only by the occasional sigh of contentment and clinking of silverware. Eric and I moved into a round of sparkling rosé, organic Pinot Noir and I found myself quite taken with the rosé; full of life it had deep savory tones and a richness far too often missing in North American versions.

   This lead us into yet another topic of conversation: oxidization in wines. I put forward the notion that the wine textbooks pre-1960 didn't talk about oxidization as much as they do now, and they certainly didn't talk about it with the same sense of wariness. Oxidization, to my knowledge, was once looked at as a winemakers tool that could be used to great effect and it seems to me as if the mainstream industry is losing that in an effort for "purity". Eric enlightened me as to how many judges in recent competitions are reporting more reductive qualities from Stelvin enclosure or screw-top then from cork... that the "perfect" enclosure is creating it's own host of issues in modern wines. Perhaps wine, as a living entity, needs oxygen... perhaps in some instances oxidization is a necessary and useful tool. There are alot of people in the wine industry who are actively exploring this concept.

   Speaking of exploring, Eric then chose a world-class sparkling Chardonnay for us to delve into as we ate:

2005 Cipes Gabriel sparkling Chardonnay 
(blanc-de-blancs)

$65, 94 points
*winner* Best International bottled-fermented Sparkling Wine, IWSC - London, England December 2009

• dry; bright, crisp, fresh carrying strong minerality throughout the palate
• tiny pearl-like bubbles; effervescent, rich/creamy mousse
• vibrant lemon-lime zest acidity, long notes of ripe apricots and almost-ripe pineapple
• stunning concentration and balanced my salmon entree perfectly, very long length on the palate and the structure is impeccable... truly Champagne quality for half the price

   I was stunned at the quality. I had tasted the Gabriel before at industry events, and always been impressed, but sitting in the sun with a bit of properly prepared food in front of me brought this wine into a new light. A true heavyweight contender in the international arena, it was sheer pleasure each and every drop.

   So then it begged the question: "What do you drink when you're not drinking your own wine Eric?"

   The answer was brilliantly simple: "Everything". Eric believes strongly (as the best businesspeople do) that he needs to know what his competition is up to and, without seeming trite, he says he "just loves wine".

   Bravo. So do we!

   And these days it seems like, more then just about anything else, what I'm loving about great wines whether they be a great $15 bottle or a great $150 bottle is the story they tell. Great wines have an immense capacity to open the senses to another place; they speak of the warmth of the sun, the way the slope rolls to the riverbank, the way someone hand-selected each cluster of grapes. Great wines speak of terroir; that inexplicable mix of land, grape and spirit (pun intended).

   Eric and I spoke of that at length, reminiscing over wineries and vintages we both knew where the winemaker and vineyard met in a moment of co-operation and told the story of where they were from. Pierre Henry-Gaget, the winemaker for Maison Louis Jadot, once told me that "Great wines are trying to tell a story. It is our job to listen."

   It occurred to me then, sitting with Eric von Krosigk, that I was with someone who truly understood that. And I also knew that I had figured this out several hours earlier at the beginning of the interview when I tried Eric's first wines and heard him talk about them. Here is a winery that understands, or perhaps they would say that they are starting to understand, their terroir. This is evidenced as much by the impeccable balance of their $20 white wines as by the rich layers in their $35 reds... there is as much local story to the award-winning sparkling wines (worth several times their cost) as there is to the dazzling array of icewines.

   Summerhill organic winery, the first certified bio-dynamic winery in BC, has a story and it's a good one. It's filled with hardwork and dedication to something bigger then themselves. Perhaps when you taste the wine, all you will taste is wine, but I can honestly say that it is some of the best wine of it's kind that I've had.

   The proof? In the vineyard, in the restaurant, in the staff and most definitely... in the glass my friends.

(left to right: Gabe Cipes, Ezra Cipes, Ari Cipes, Eric von Krosigk, Stephen Cipes)

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Hainle vineyards, Peachland, BC, Canada

I had a great conversation with friends today: it was my daughter's first birthday and so, naturally, we were sitting with glasses of wine and having a chat.

   The conversation turned to the topic of people who stick to their beliefs in the face of  adversity... People who inspire us through their fastidious attachment to what they believe is true and good and worthy of effort. And then they succeed. Despite (or because?) of the contrariness that surrounds them, they succeed where none believed possible. Examples abound! Sylvester Stallone and Rocky, finding diamonds in the Canadian Arctic (the geologist who did believe in Canadian diamonds was told by professors in university that his theory was "un-sound"), and there are even examples in the wine industry.

   Yes, the wine industry is scattered with more then its share of visionaries who believe in something beyond what most people do. I'm proud to say that I know one of those visionary winemakers and his name is Walter Huber and he owns/runs Hainle vineyards (https://www.hainle.com/wineawards.php).

   This isn't the first time I've written about Hainle vineyards but, much as with many things in life, for me it keeps getting better everytime I go back.

1. http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2011/03/hainle-vineyards-peachland-okanagan.html

2. http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2011/06/hainle-vineyard-estate-winery-peachland.html

3.    http://astudentofwine.blogspot.ca/2011/06/hainle-vineyards-estate-winery.html

   Let's be honest, Hainle vineyards doesn't get very much good press in British Columbia... I can't even say that I've seen any good press on them in Canada. But how can that be I wonder? Is it because there's nothing good to say?

    I could talk about Walter's fundamental belief in organics and bio-dynamic principles. I could talk about Walter's willingness, nay eagerness, to share his time and wine-samples with anyone of any level of wine-education who demonstrates passion and zeal for quality. I could even talk about Walter's continual self-education and relentless search for wine techniques both antique and modern that bring the best results to his wines (ask to see his rare books!).

   I could talk about all of these things and more, but they don't really matter. What matters to you, and to me, is what's in the glass. What matters is that wine gurus around the globe who know far more about viticulture and vinification then I may ever learn are singular in their praise for Walter's work with the diverse portfolio that is Hainle/Deep Creek vineyards.

   To wit, the Los Angeles International competition has awarded Hainle Zweigelt 100 points not once, but twice in the past 10 years. Twice, and yet the local media is silent on the subject. Here in BC the '07 Pinot Noir received 99 points last year at the second largest wine tasting in the province in Whistler. The first Canadian Pinot Noir to win 99 points, and no one wrote a word about it. Then a few months ago in March (2012) Walter was invited to Geneva to receive the CQE Gold Award (International Quality Wine) from the eponymous Century International Quality Era Award committee.

   I have heard it said that sometimes truly great people are appreciated abroad before they are ever appreciated at home. Perhaps I am too juvenile in the ways of the wine industry to say with any certainly which winemakers are or are not genuinely great... Perhaps.

   So don't take my word for it my friends, the proof (as always) is in the glass.

Hainle Vineyards / Deep Creek 2012 releases

2011 Riesling-Gewurztraminer
$20, 92-93 points

• made with the Muller-Thurgau yeast from Pieroth winery in Germany (http://www.pieroth.com/ ), this is a new level of early approachability for Hainle white wines
• rich stonefruit and light summer floral bouquet
• bit of residual sugar on the palate is balanced by superbly refreshing full acids which are incredibly well integrated in such a young wine

2011 Sauvignon Blanc
$25, 92 points

• made with the same yeast strain
•  nose displays a dizzying array of savory lemongrass/Asian herbaceousness
• palate is marked by the trademark Hainle vineyards mineral backbone but is well-balanced by that savoriness... much as in the above example the acids are racy and vigorous and yet in an integrated and approachable manner 

2009 Old Vines Riesling
$25, 91 points

• vines are now aged almost 40 years
• different yeast / not the Muller-Thurgau
• aromas are already developing into traditional petrol/waxy with crisp, clean fresh slatey mineral backbone
• the palate follows suit with bright, fresh acids that cleanse.. approachable but still tasting a little young
• would suit the fattier fishes at this point in it's life, or the rich Alsatian food that follows Germanic traditions (think curried bratwurst, schnitzels, raclette)

2009 Pinot Gris
 $20, 89-90 points

• nose is displaying more lees-qualities at this point (almonds, toasty brioche) and soft summer floral qualities with an undercurrent of savoriness akin to Burgundian sous-bois or underbrush
• trademark minerality is felt keenly on the palate with slightly softer acidity then I'm used to from this winery (medium instead of medium+ to full) this is a great wine to enjoy on it's own, whether it be on a patio or for an evening function

2009 Erenfelser
$27, 95 points

•  I have to start off  by stating that this is one of the most unique examples of this varietal that I can remember ever having... Mrs AStudentOfWine loves Erenfelser and so I end up purchasing a fair share of them over the course of a year. Most examples of this varietal are fairly simple in nature and overwhelm with basic notes of jammy stonefruit and over-ripe exotic floral
• this is a wine of different calibre! If you understand the difference between a beach towel and Irish linen, then you understand this wine. The nose is a filigree of never-ending stonefruit and floral qualities that almost trip over themselves in their dance with the Hainle mineral backbone and savory sous-bois
• on the palate: crisp, clean, dry with a host of floral tones that ring from front to back and have a world-class persistence, great concentration... what a shame that Canadians prefer Erenfelser with residual sugar because they're missing out on a truly superb wine

2009 Gewurztraminer-Sauvignon Blanc
$20, 92 points+
1500 cases produced, sells out every year

• rich straw color, bright flecks of silver and gold throughout
• elegant rose-perfume, hints of spicey pepper tempered by warm hay and lemongrass
• light residual sugar (off-dry), fully intense and deliciously crisp, clean, refreshing acids, utterly transparent full concentration of flavors that truly reflect the terroir  
• versitile wine! food pairings with sushi, Thai, summer salads, fresh seafood

2011 Gewurztraminer
$20, 89 points

• made with the Muller-Thurgau  yeast
•  fairly straightforward nose which has an intense focus of stewed apricot/apricot compote
• palate once again POPS with an intense and yet very approachable acidity, touch of residual sugar. Very refreshing, this is a great wine when you need to beat-the-heat!

2009 Pinot Noir
$45, 94+ points

   very exciting! Walter and I were discussing this vintage and he let me in on the fact that he kept this wine macerating for 6 weeks... 42 days is double what some wineries will spend on their Bordeaux-styled blends with Cabernet-Sauvignon, much less for a fragile grape like Pinot Noir. Crazy stuff! But Walter says that he uses this technique very specifically because he wants the depth of color, he wants the depth of flavor...

• color is very deep almost Royal-purple
• nose is fully intense bouquet  of black roses, irises, plums, distinct mineral background... almost like the great Morgon or Moulin-a-Vent  quality which is truly ironic as the greatest Gamay Noir describe how they take on Pinot Noir characteristics
• palate is choc-a-bloc full of rich, meaty, chewy, fatty, unctuous tannins just aching for great food to sit beside, acidity is enthusiastic but well-behaved, concentration of flavors is full with the same notes as the bouquet  with the inclusion of fresh red berries to start. Excellent balance, stunning structure

   I need to finish this review with an observation; many people have vastly differing views on what a great Pinot Noir  ought to be... I've sat with world-class winemakers extolling the virtues of Oregon and Sonoma examples and then been inundated with scathing remarks from merchants saying that Sonoma doesn't make "real Pinot"... this may or may not be your cup of tea, but to me (and many others) this is a truly gifted example of what this varietal can be, but rarely is.

2008 Estate Pinot Noir (Hainle's Reserve)
$90, 99+ points

   To start I need to preface by sharing that Walter had the privilage of tasting Romanee-Conti next to his award winning 2007 Estate Pinot Noir just a short time ago. Walter believes that his '08 vintage demonstrates more of the Romanee-Conti nuances and is, in fact, a better wine then the '07 vintage that scored 99 points.

• color is paler then the '09 (regular) Pinot Noir  with a trace amount of oxidization
• a truly puissant  and yet extremely elegent bouquet; harmonious layers of sweeter bright red berries, soft roses and irises, light truffle-like notes, warm savory earth
• on the palate crisp and clean with mineral tones singing right from the start, tight red berry acids (cherries, young plums), intense floral notes are balanced with some of the sweeter/candy notes felt in the nose... almost Morgon-like again, but the best of all Gamay. Concentration is through the roof, balance in impeccable and the structure is brilliant

   This is one of the finest wines I have ever had. 

  Truly, this is drinkable now, and sheer joy, but this will reward patient cellaring and because of the craftsmanship will have a fantastically long life of well over 20 years. Consider this wine an investment; you and I may never spend the $2000 for a bottle of Romanee-Conti, and this wine might very well (once again) score higher then that heavy-weight of Bourgogne.

2009 Z3 (Zweigelt, Baco Noir, Pinot Noir)

this is the third and last release of this blend

$ 27, 91-92 points

• much darker pigmentation then usual; fully intense garnet core with slightest cherry rim. No oxidization
• nose is full of traditional Z3 notes; big dark berries (blackberries, Saskatoon, black cherry), followed by Okanagan sous-bois  savoriness and lightly meaty-bacon notes
• whilst normally not my thing, I found this blend to be lovely and a wonderful sipping wine on it's own! Big, rich chewy tannins that are approachable with medium, bright acids, medium+ concentration 
• a natural pairing with venison due to the richness of the berry aromas and flavors, texture to the tannin structure and approachable acids which don't require much in the way of fattiness in the food to balance

2009 Baco Noir
$25, 90 points

• traditionally dark pigmentation with no visible oxidization
• aromas are deep, dark blueberry compote with Okanagan sous-bois
• acidity is fresh and inviting; an excellent wine to start a meal or serve in the middle of a warm and lazy afternoon. The blueberry notes in the nose are quite dominant on the palate (in a good way)... a fresh alternative to Gamay Noir

 2008 Merlot - Cabernet Sauvignon

 $55 (?), 93 points

• comes from the vineyard in Osoyoos
• medium+ garnet core with slight cherry/brick rim
• bouquet is Bordeaux-like; rich red berries, savory earthiness, soft ripe red/black floral notes, delicate minerality, pencil/graphite edge, soft and mild cigar tobacco like Davidoff
• acids are medium+, quite young and tight, already starting to integrate, tannins are the Hainle fleshy, chewy, meaty variety meriting a long cellaring... concentration is very good, excellent balance and structure
• drinking best 2015++

 2009 Estate Zweigelt
$45(?),92 points

• color is deep, dark fully concentrated purple/garnet core with no oxidization
• traditional blueberry, Saskatoon aromas with a sweeter, more fruit-forward style... light background of sous-bois but you need to search for it a bit
• moderate acids (fresh and inviting), moderate+ chewy tannins which are already integrating well, this is really a fruity little wine that wants to be served early in a meal or earlier in the evening... 
• Walter has a firm belief that this wine pairs brilliantly with oysters (fresh or cooked) and I have tried this pairing and find it to be, absurdly, true! For this particular vintage I would pair off Oysters Rockefeller and watch the warm bacon notes bring similar notes from the wine into focus

2010 Pinot Noir Icewine
$45(?), 90+ points

•  pale golden-amber core with orange rim
• nose is a much richer floral to start; think of yellow roses just after the rain, savory winter spices like spice cookies, toffee
• on the palate much more refreshing acidity, lower residual sugar, bright and fresh this is for people who think that they don't like Icewine because they're all too sweet... this should appeal to pastry chefs as they acidity will be quite versatile with desserts. Would also work well as a gelee or shaved-ice as a palate-cleanser in a formal meal because of the richness of the acid

 2011 Gewurztraminer-Icewine (Clare's vintage)
$45(?), 97 points++

   I must preface this review by stating that the name "Clare's Vintage" is only for myself and my family. You see, I regularly recommend to private clients that when offering a gift for someone who purchases a new home, or celebrates the birth of a child, that the gift of a bottle of icewine is perfect. Most new vintages of icewine will sell for under $100, and icewine is one of the wines most capable of great aging... in some cases for 100 years or longer. And? And the value keeps increasing with each passing year or decade. Some icewines at only 10 to 20 years old can be worth as much as $5000 or more in the right market. The best  can be worth 10 times that amount or more. This means that your friends can open the icewine you gave them at their mortgage-burning party and be savoring a wine worth far more then most of us would ever part with. In keeping with that idea I pre-purchased a case of the 2011 icewine from Hainle vineyards for my daughter Clare when she was born. I will give it to her when she turns 20 and if she wants me to auction it, it will pay for her university for several years.

• rich amber color, liquid honey or rich hay, almost orange marmalade
• bouquet  is almost beyond words; the aromas are about more then just ripe fruit/compote layers... almonds, winter spices with a hint of Thai chili, savory earth
• on the palate, lots of residual sugar balanced by a lip-smacking acidity, showing great cohesion for still in barrel, fully intense apricot and grapefruit flavors, kumquat marmalade, candied orange peels, lemon zest, huge floral layers with an almost rosewater quality, Turkish delight... full concentration, amazing balance and structure, long long long length

   I consider myself fortunate that I met Walter Huber and Hainle vineyards early in my wine career... Walter is one of those vignerons  who is willing to take the time to talk with his clients. Walter doesn't get egotistical because his wines win awards around the world. Walter doesn't chose to share his time with people because of how much wine they're buying.

   Walter likes talking about wine with people who truly are passionate... he likes to share what he's learnt with those around him. To me, that makes him rather remarkable. And then, to taste his wines... well, as always, the proof is in the glass my friends.

As always I look forward to your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Sonoran Estate Winery, Summerland BC

Let me start by saying that genuine hospitality is a dying art form. True, genuine, hospitality where one feels like an old friend coming home rather then a stranger who has walked in the door uninvited...

Sonoran Estate Winery has an atmosphere of genuine hospitality.

My wife (Mrs AstudentofWine) and I were in Summerland, BC last August for a well earned week of r&w (rest and wine - of course) when we almost literally stumbled across Sonoran. A nice looking brown home at the end of a short gravel driveway, one side of the house looks out over Okanagan Lake and the valley. There is shade, and cool tile floors, and someone always behind the counter ready to pour a taster of what-you're-in-the-mood-for.

This visit, I had the distinct pleasure of meeting Adrian, the winemaker. A jovial fellow, we got down to tasting wine in earnest quickly and he whisked me away to the inner workings of Sonoran in the "cellar". There were many treasures hidden there, and Adrian was kind enough to let me sample more then my fair share. I owe a debt of gratitude not only to him for letting me sample such truly excellent craftsmanship - but to my wife as well, for taking over the driving at that point.

2008 Riesling/Gewurztraminer

13.5%, $14

• 
  
  nose is moderate++; full of roses & summer floral with a background of grapefruit & young stonefruit (peaches before they reach maturity)
• 
  
  moderate++ acids, moderate palate (same as the nose)
• 
  
  moderate (to mod-) body, moderate alcohol, moderate+ structure

I find this to be an appealing summer patio wine; inexpensive and good value for the money - it has good balance and structure and drinks easily on its own. Not my choice with food - but if pressed would serve it with lighter food like a shrimp salad croissant or crab salad.

2009 Oraniensteiner

13.0%, $16

• 
  
  moderate+ intense nose; hot alcohol, citrus notes (especially grapefruit), and candied banana
• 
  
  moderate- (soft) acids, moderate palate starting with ripe stonefruit and finishing with limey terroir
• 
  
  full- body (this wine has a big mouth feel without any of the flabbiness), full alcohol (serve it well chilled to keep from overpowering), brilliantly developed structure - drink this wine now!

Great wine - I loved every drop, but would once again warn not to serve it above 14C. Serve with a breast of smoked duck and a spicy apricot compote or relish!

2009 Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc

60% Pinot Gris, 14%, $18 **EXCELLENT VALUE**

• moderate+ intense nose of citrus and mild herbaceousness or garrigue
• full- acids with a fully intense palate of the limey terroir... citrus and herbs come into play and the finish is almost gravelly
• moderate- body, moderate alcohol (it doesn't feel like 14%), excellent balance and structure

Just a well made wine and that's all there is to it. I could, and have, sipped this on a patio in the mid-afternoon whilst reading a book - or - as the start to a meal on a hot evening when the palate really needs some help to open up. Serve this with BC chevre (goat's cheese) in any dish & prepare yourself for a treat.

2009 Riesling

12.3%, $18 **EXCELLENT VALUE**

• 
  
  moderate+ to full- intense bouquet of layers upon layers of honey, apricots, peaches, small yellow flowers
• 
  
  moderate acids awash with the limey terroir of the vineyard and a long long long crisp, clean finish
• 
  
  moderate body, moderate alcohol, brilliant balance and structure

What a treat. This certainly appealed to my wife, who is a true fan of Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Oraniensteiner and any of the aromatic whites. I loved it because the dry palate balanced the richly sweet nose perfectly. I would love to serve this with cold smoked duck, seared scallops, coconut prawns... the list is truly endless. Fondue!

2008 Gewurztraminer

$17

• 
  
  full- intense nose with multi layers of ripe stonefruit, floral upon floral and a ton of honey
• 
  
  moderate++ acids (perfect to balance the nose) but I noticed a slightly sour aftertaste to the acids

2009 Riesling Gewurztraminer

13.3%

• 
  
  light nose, very faint and hard to open; lime, stonefruit, floral, gravel
• 
  
  moderate++ to full- limey acids
• 
  
  moderate+ body, slightly hot alcohol, long finish

Once again, a wine I would ensure was 12C to 14C and no warmer or the alcohol seems quite hot. I thought this was a perfect pairing with any of your fatty meats like pork loin (wrapped in bacon) or a cream based sauce - Coquilles St Jacques perhaps!

2007 Merlot

• 
  
  visually starting to show a light cherry/brick rim with dark ruby centre
• 
  
  moderate+ intense nose shows leather (26 months in oak!) and the fruit is just making an appearance with plums
• 
  
  moderate++ acids, moderate++ tannins all interfere with the palate where, once again, the plummy fruit is just starting to appear
• 
  
  Great Structure!

I would give this wine at least another 9-12 months before tasting again.

2007 Malbec

13.5% **BUY THIS WHEN IT BECOMES AVAILABLE @ $25**

• 
  
  (barrel sample)
• 
  
  moderate+ intense nose; dark baies rouges or red berries, earthy terroir with a hint of pepper
• 
  
  moderate acids, moderate+ slightly chewy tannins, moderate palate; filled with earthy plummy goodness
• 
  
  moderate(+) body, moderate+ alcohol, good balance and a long, developed structure

     I have been saying (since the fateful day that I tasted this wine) that, In My Humble Opinion, this wine will change the way that we perceive BC red wine. Not because of the quality - which is excellent... there are quite a few BC wineries producing quite a few excellent quality red wines. Many of which are superior to this one (although I would say the same echelon).

     It is because of the quality versus the price.

     $25 for a BC red of great quality is a rare, rare find. I was truly impressed with the level of workmanship & look forward to sharing many a bottle of this with many of you.

2007 "Forbidden Love" Icewine

11.2%, $30, Pinot Noir & Pinot Blanc blend **Very Good Quality**

• 
  
  fully intense bouquet of intense garden floral, honey upon honey & candied almonds
• 
  
  moderate++ acids, with the palate mimicking the nose completely

Icewines & Late Harvest wines are not usually my thing. But.

     But this has excellent balance, a lovely contrast between sweet, honey floral nose and crisp almost "pop in your mouth with lime zest" acids. Overall a very good quality product & well worth the money.

2008 Erenfelser Icewine

13.2%, $30, **Excellent Value**

• moderate++ intense nose, full of notes of dried raisins & reminding me of Olorosa Sherry with the particular nose that the Solera system imparts
• full- acids, rich developed palate with the usual fruit & floral & honey - but once again the dried raisin flavor stayed on the palate for an incredibly long time

Much more my type of desert wine - I could almost see this paired with foie gras au torchon and a green apple and raisin chutney, some fresh rosemary potato bread & a small wedge of pecorino cheese.

2006 Oraniensteiner Icewine
11.5%, $35 **Very Good Value**

• fully intense nose rich with all overripe stonefruit: peaches, nectarines, apricots & of course honey
• moderate+ to full- acids, palate mimicks the nose again but with the same sense of dried raisins and a ton of residual sugar (too much for my personal tastes)
• moderate++ body, moderate- alcohol, very good structure

      Another well crafted wine - much more to my wife's tastebuds then to mine, but thoroughly enjoyed by both of us.
_________________________________________________________________________

     So a wonderful way to spend the afternoon in Summerland, BC... sitting up on the side of the hill on a cool patio, sipping at well crafted wines (did you know they have a chef now?). You can have a little something to nosh on and just watch the world pass by.

     A truly hospitable & amenable place to visit. We ended up walking out with almost an entire mixed case of wine - some to cellar (the icewines can last for years) and some to share this summer with friends and family... as it should be.

Sonoran Estates, Summerland, BC

Sonoran estate wineries ( http://www.sonoranestate.com/ ) was a welcome stop on our week long stay in the Okanagan last August. It was over 30C and Mrs Astudentofwine and I had been driving all day, tasting more then a little wine, and needing some respite from the road.

Then we found this brilliant winery in the low hills above Summerland; the patio faces the lake with un-interrupted views and constant breezes. The interior of the wineshop is cool, warmed by the inviting staff, and host to a horde of inexpensive and delicious wines. Now they have a chef, cooking classes, a modest b&b... we have a bottle of their Kerner Icewine that we savored at the end of a long evening of barbeque with family and Belgian chocolate.

A sommeliers natural habitat: finding the perfect wine to balance fine food and great company.

2005 Sonoran Estate "Full Moon" Kerner Icewine

13.6%, $16 (approximately) **Excellent Value**

• soft golden hues
• vibrant, fully intense nose of Solera system sherry; lots of raisins, dried apricot, dried apples & butter
• moderate++ acids balance the 4 sweetness, moderate+ intense palate that mimics the nose almost completely... with a long finish of wild roses not found on the nose
• full bodied, moderate alcohol, very very good structure

This is a beautiful wine that is still developing (IMHO). Don't serve with sweet desserts! Think of it with a savory appetiser like foie gras (yes - like Sauternes but not $100 a bottle). After dinner? Perhaps with a ricotta cannoli, pumpkin ricotta cheesecake, or just some brilliant cheeses! I drank it a year ago, and since then it has grown new layers if memory serves. I look forward to trying more from this decidedly undervalued winery.