Silk Scarf winery (portfolio tasting), Summerland, Okanagan Valley DVA

   It's become a yearly pilgrimage for me; to visit the Silk Scarf winery in Summerland (www.SilkW.net) and talk wine for a couple of hours with Roie, the owner and winemaker.

   Roie is a patient man, to be certain... he took the time to talk about his wines with me before I started school, then just after my Sommelier level 1 course, and then again after my Sommelier Level 2... each time taking the time it needed to answer my ever-developing questions and comments. I don't know that I've always had the patience with my customers at the Fox's Reach Liquor Store http://tagliquorstores.com/fox-reach/ (where I have been Product Consultant for the past few months).

   This Spring Roie and I sat again, with a multitude of wines, and sipped - and chatted - and sipped some more. I used to think that Roie's wines were world-class, but that was before I went to school for a year and a half... now I know they are.

2010 Ensemble Blanc
$22   **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****

varietals:   Alsatian blending of Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Muscat (less then 1%)

• nose:   clean; fully intense developing bouquet of Bing cherries, honeyed red raspberries, rich summer florals and exotic fruit (some pineapple, guava and papaya)
• palate:   clean; moderate+ (cranberry/raspberry) acids, moderate+ developing flavors that mimick the nose. Superb balance, excellent structure and medium+ length
• conclusion:   very well made wine that drinks well now to 2015. Will not develop further in bottle
• PAIRINGS:   although the exotic floral notes in this wine would play well off of a variety of seafood dishes (paella certainly) - I immediately wanted to play off the dominant cherry notes (and there are layers of cherries in this wine) by serving it with duck; a simple roast duck with savory herbs and potato galette was my initial instinct

2010 Viognier

$22   **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****
gold medal: 2010 All Canadian Wine Championship

• nose:   clean; fully intense developing bouquet of summer meadow flowers and layer upon layer of ripe stonefruit (apricot, peaches, nectarines, plums)
• palate:   clean; moderate+ intense (apricot) acids, moderate+ to fully intense developing flavors that mimick the nose with pronounced long cherry notes. Excellent balance and structure, and long, long length on the palate
• conclusion:   drinks superbly now to 2015. Will not develop further in bottle
• PAIRINGS:   rich exotic flavors and slight sweetness pair perfectly with traditional Thai and Vietnamese food... especially coconut and Thai basil braised chicken over red curry rice

2010 Riesling Muscat
12.5% ABV
$22   *** Very Good Value ***

varietals:   96% Riesling, 4% Muscat

• nose:   clean; moderate intensity and youthful aromas of early stonefruit, light minerality, young orchardfruit and cherry blossoms
• palate:   clean; moderate+ (sour cherry) acids, moderately intense and youthful flavors that mimick the nose. Very good balance and structure, medium length
• conclusion:  very good wine that drinks well 2012-2018 (and beyond). Will improve with aging until 2015 (and longer)
• PAIRINGS:   crisp and slightly tart, this wine is a natural for schnitzel, whether it be pork, veal or even chicken... I would prefer a pork schnitzel (for the fat) and finish it with a non-traditional Indian curry sauce

2010 Chardonnay
12% ABV
$22    **** EXCELLENT VALUE ****
only 800 cases produced

maturation:   100% steeltank.

• nose:   clean; moderate+ intense and youthful aromas of classic (refined) Californian style Chardonnay with it's grilled pineapple, caramels and exotic fruit layering (mango, papaya, lychee)
• palate:   clean; moderate (crisp and lively apricot marmalade) acids, moderately intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose. Excellent balance and structure, medium+ length
• conclusion:   drinks well now to 2016(+). May develop slightly over the next couple of years
• PAIRINGS:   all of these flavors take me back to an Irish chef I used to know who made the best butter braised rabbit on fresh farfalle pasta with wild thyme... the buttery rabbit is going to balance the lively acids and the wild thyme contrasts against the exotic fruit

2010 Saignee (rose)
$22    ***** BUY THIS NOW *****

varietals:   65% Syrah, 35% Merlot

• nose:   clean; light+ to medium intensity youthful aromas of rose petals, cherry blossoms with a distinct mineral backbone
• palate:   moderate+ (crisp, lively cranberry) acids, moderate+ intense youthful yet incredibly well integrated flavors mimicking the nose with nuances of orange zest and tangerine. Excellent balance and structure with long length
• conclusion:   drink now. drink often. drinks well now -2015, but will most likely not develop much further in bottle
• PAIRINGS:   Roie from Silk Scarf enjoys this with smoked salmon, and as he has had it many more times then I have, how can I argue? As for myself, I agree that this pairs well with fattier seafood; I was thinking more along the lines of grilled BC dungeoness crab... this wine will love flavors that come from the grill

2008 Ensemble Red 
12.5% ABV

$38   *** Very Good Value ***

varietals:   Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc
maturation:   18 months in 60% French and 40% American oak (first generation)

• nose:   clean; fully intense and developing aromas of bold spicy Cab Franc to open followed by rich red berries (raspberry, strawberry), old leather, some dried berries (blueberry) and a slightly herbaceous finish
• palate:   clean; fully intense (sour cherry) acids, fully intense (grippy) tannins, moderate+ to fully intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose. Very good balance and structure with medium+ length
• conclusion:   very good wine that's a bit too young to drink well... drinks well 2013-2020++. Will continue to develop in bottle until 2015
• PAIRINGS:   a natural for baron of roast beef with rosemary and sage au jus and garlic-chevre mashed potato

2008 Shiraz
13.5% ABV

$38   *** Very Good to EXCELLENT Value ****

fermentation:    on 3% Viognier skins (Cote Rotie style)

• nose:   clean; moderately intense developing aromas of light cocoa and coffee, dark berries (blackberry and saskatoon), finish of dark florals (iris, black roses)
• palate:   clean; fully intense (sour cherry-cranberry) acids, full- (chewy, silty) tannins, moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose. Very good balance, excellent structure and long length
• conclusion:   still quite young for this wine... drinks well 2013-2020. Will continue to develop in the bottle at least until 2015
• PAIRINGS:   a natural pairing for venison... save this for the Fall and a braised venison shank with red-wine demi-glace and potato croquette with a rosemary-walnut crust

2008 Cabernet Franc
13.5% ABV

$33    ***** BUY THIS NOW *****

• nose:   clean; moderate+ intense and developing bouquet of red and black berries, rich earthy-mineral terroir, old worn leather
• palate:   clean; moderately intense (sour cherry) acids, moderate+ (chewy) tannins, moderate+ intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose. Excellent balance and structure with long, long length
• conclusion:   already drinking well, this wine will continue to develop in bottle until 2015 and will hold until 2020 (possibly longer)
• PAIRINGS:   a rich, bold wine that has enough elegance to sit beside a traditional Osso Bucco Milanese complete with the saffron risotto and white truffle shavings

   A really wonderful way to spend part of an afternoon, and Summerland is quite a lovely spot to share some wine at any time of year. Silk Scarf now has food service during the summer months as well; with a menu focused on fresh, local, seasonal components that truly showcase themselves and the wines they are paired with.

   If you still have any doubts as to whether or not you should make the time to stop in and visit Roie or his ever-cheerful wife, just take another look at their website and count the awards they have garnered over the past half-dozen years or recognize some of the restaurants who chose to give Silk Scarf winery a place of honor on their winelists.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Silk Scarf Winery, Summerland, BC

My wife has the patience of Job (a biblical reference for the non-religious audience members)... at the end of last August (2009) we ended up pulling into Silk Scarf Winery in Summerland, BC.

     It wasn't much to look at, a small rancher-style home with a short gravel driveway. There was a sign leading us towards what looked like the patio of the home, but waiting on the other side of the patio glass doors was another world. A tastefully minimalist decorated sitting room with truly artisan wines - and I mean world class. The winemakers wife was pouring small samples for us, and everything we tried that day was well worthy of comment.

      And comment I did! "Oh the Pinot Noir!" I exclaimed!

     "Well why don't you buy a bottle?" Mrs Astudentofwine asked.

     "I couldn't," I said. "I just couldn't."

     You see, we had already bought over a case of wine, and it was only day 3 of our mini-vacation. I had to show restaint. I had to show that I wasn't going to be a slave to my senses... I persevered and stubbornly refused to buy the $22 bottle of Pinot Noir that I was yearning for. It was my wife who paid for that stubborness.

     For almost a year to the day - she listened to me endlessly as I extolled the many virtues of Silk Scarf and their mighty Pinot... "truly one of the great Pinots of BC!"I would say.

     My wife detests Pinot Noir.

     And so this year was more then a vacation for me: it was the fullfillment of a year's anticipation. And it was also a test for myself, in a very real and genuine sense...

     Last summer I was a neophyte; completely unschooled in Wine. This year I had the ISG Level 1 under my belt, tasting notes on over 500 wines; a new outlook... would I taste the Silk Scarf wines the same way?

2009 Viognier

13%, $22 **EXCELLENT VALUE**

• fully intense bouquet; intense summer floral, ripe stonefruit & orchardfruit. I give this wine th ehighest compliment I can give any Viognier... it tastes and smells like it came from John Albans vineyards in California.
• full acids, the moderately intense palate does not live up to the nose in intensity, but perfectly mimicks the qualities. Slight dusty finish and layers of the stonefruit; first peach, then honeyed apricot
• brilliant wine. Brilliant value! This wines smells like a $60 wine and drinks like a $40(+) wine. Any way you look at this, it's great value for you (and me). Serve with terrine, cold smoked chicken sandwiches, smoked duck carpaccio (etc)

2009 Riesling Muscat

$22 **EXCELLENT VALUE**

• 
  
  moderate+ intense nose filled with German style Riesling notes: plastic, petrol - slightly hot alcohol and then the  Muscat at the end with soft exotic floral and fruit
• 
  
  moderate+ acids, long dry chalky finish, moderate+ intense palate of cherries in all their gloray, honeyed apricot, Anjou pear finishes
• 
  
  Brilliant. I know I'm repeating myself -but wonderful wine. This is my ideal match for a slow roast of pork loin with roast apples & Calvados pan jus.

2009 Rose

$22

• 
  
  moderate- intense nose of cherry blossoms, vanilla & orange zest
• 
  
  moderate+ (lemony) acids, long long citrus finish with a minor appearance from the cherry notes
• 
  
  I thought this would be a lovely pairing with dessert! Try it with a black forst cake and watch how the acids balance out the richness of the cake. Other ideas>? How about with a terrine of foie gras and once again, the acids will balance the decadent richness

2007 Merlot

$27

(13 months french oak)

• 
  
  visually rich ruby, showing a slight brickish rim
• 
  
  nose is moderate intense; some hot alcohol off the top, followed by red berries fruit (baie rouges) especially red and black currants, slight dusty finish
• 
  
  moderate++ acids, moderate++ tannins, moderately intense palate with the flavors matching the nose impeccably
• 
  
  I would say to give this wine another year or so in bottle to allow the tannins to soften, allowing the fruit fuller expression. Then I would serve it with a simple beef carpaccio or preferably steak tartare.

2006 Pinot Noir

(not available any longer)

• 
  
  moderately intense nose of dusty chalky cherries in all their splendor
• 
  
  moderate acids, moderate tannins, moderate body with the palate mimicking the nose impeccably
• 
  
  lovely wine to sip on it's own - or serve it with a lightly seasoned roast beef

2007 Pinot Noir

$32 **Very Good Value**

• 
  
  brickish rim with moderate ruby centre
• 
  
  same nose but with just a hint of pepperiness (milder then a shiraz)
• 
  
  moderate++ to full- acids, moderate+ tannins, thinner body then usual - one hopes that another year in bottle may balance it out

2007 Shiraz Reserve

$60 **World Class Wine**

(18 months French oak)

• 
  
  here they are using marvellous technique and laying the wine with Viognier skins - dazzling what it does to the dimensions and levels of flavor
• 
  
  Fully intense unique bouquet: floral notes from the Viognier and garrigue from the Shiraz - layers upon layers
• 
  
  moderate+ acids, full+ acids, fully intense flavors that mimick the nose but include 85% dark chocolate, and dark berries like blackberries and perhaps mild saskatoons
• 
  
  If you have the money - BUY THIS WINE. Seriously. I could open this with any of my wine-geek friends and they would all drool.... serve with duck confit and a smoked onion & cherry compote on toasted brioche.

A world class winery in a sleepy town in Summerland, BC. There are very few restaurants carrying these wines right now - but they are all places I know and respect: John Bishop's, Blue Water Cafe, Cin Cin, etc... come and discover for yourself what a few of us lucky people have been hoarding to ourselves!

Silk Scarf

Oh to find good wine... what a lucky man is he who discovers a new winemaker making wine in his or her own inimitable way. With joy. With passion. With the true love of the craft. How lucky to find that winemaker before your friends do, and then buy that wine for far far less then you know it deserves to be sold for!

I was so lucky, but then I blew it. I told everyone I knew about this brilliant winery in Summerland, BC: Silk Scarf. Their Pinot Noir? Lord in Heaven - one of the best I've ever had from BC.

But today is a day for Viognier. The sun soared over Vancouver with bright, fluffy little clouds skirting hither and thither. I made a fire in the outside fireplace, lit a Cohiba Esplendido, read a little and watched the world pass me by. Then my wife and I opened the Silk Scarf Viognier with a salade Nicoise and, for a moment, were at peace.

2008 Silk Scarf Viognier $23 **BUY THIS NOW**

• 
  
  full, absolutely full bouquet of melons, pineapple, guava, orchard fruit... giving way to soft rich florals like Tiger Lilies gone wild... layered, buttery. I wonder, can I buy a potpourri like this?


• 
  
  moderate++ acids are balanced by a buttery, 10% cream kind of texture, with layers of flavor: crisp pineapple open followed by the citrusy-lemony-grapefruity acids washing the palate. The come lush orchard fruit; I just bite into an Anjou pear, and then a compote of Gala apples, and now at the end I'm left with the barest whisper of that floral.


• 
  
  Time to drink it again.

Well we served it with a Salade Nicoise, but it has enough acid to balance it against butter poached seafood. I could serve it with Coquilles St Jacques, steamed spot prawns, the possibilities don't end. That's the relationship between wine and food that I adore: great wine inspires great food. And vice versa.

Cin-cin! Slainte!