Xavier, Cotes du Rhone (France)

As any Google search will tell you, Xavier Vignon ( http://www.xaviervins.com/ ) is a consulting oenologist for several notable wineries in the Cotes du Rhone... what they don't tell you, is who those wineries are. I don't know who they are either (sorry I can't solve the puzzle like Rick Castle would).

What I can tell you is that Xavier is a man very intimately connected with the local industry, and in a rare position to know who is doing the best of what in any given year. He now uses this long accumulation of knowledge to create his own, reasonably priced, blends.

The Cotes du Rhone blend is a traditional Chateauneuf du Pape blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah & 20% Mouvedre. I think it's become such a stand-by and classic style of blend because those percentages (in general - any given year may change it) reflect a true sense of balance in the wine. This blend certainly achieves those goals.

2007 Xavier, Cotes du Rhone blend

$20 CAN (BC), 14.5%

• deep bruised plum center colors with light cherry rim
• full- intense nose primarily of black raspberries, black cherries, ripe plums, leathery oak (and a whiff of slightly hot alcohol)
• moderate acids, moderate+ slightly gravelly tannins, moderately intense palate that mimics the nose well, but is slightly less developed and tapers off quickly. Think more green cherries rather then black.
• moderate+ body, moderate+ structure

pair with: something with a bit of fat to it, to balance the acids. Steak with a compound butter? There's enough structure that it can handle lamb as well (once again playing off the acids)... I have it! Try a grilled veal cutlet (bone in) with a wild mushroom cream demi-glace... serve with creamed spinach, parsnip & apple puree & roast bell peppers.

This is a good wine for the money, and as those of you in the States can buy this for $15 instead of $20 - an even better buy. It certainly outperforms its very reasonable cost!

CIN CIN! SLAINTE!

Alban Vineyards, a viognier to remember

Just a few months ago, there was a wonderful wine tasting for media & industry at Marquis Wine Cellar (http://www.marquis-wines.com/ ). I was fortunate enough to be invite by John Clerides, owner & patron saint, and still remember with fondness several of the delightful wines sampled that evening.

One in particular was the Alban vineyards Viognier (http://www.albanvineyards.com/ ). Now this varietal has quite a story, from being of one the most widely planted in the Rhone region of France to being virtually extinct only 20 years ago. One man, a mister John Alban, literally doubled the amount of Viognier being planted worldwide by himself. A dramatic raise from 50 acres to over 100 acres if my research is correct.

So John Alban. Rhone style varietals grown and blended by a master-craftsman in the Central Coast AVA in California, and by Californian standards, at very reasonable rates. Consider this little gem...

2007 Alban Vineyards "Central Coast" Viognier
by John Alban, winemaker, 14.9%, $38 CAN **very good value

• moderately intense notes of honeysuckle, floral citrus, melon & orchard fruit
• moderate++ acids, well balanced by an exceedingly long structure comparing admirably to the nose. A touch more citrus on the palate, and far less exotic fruit and floral than is found in the "Estate" Viognier for $70 CAN
• this wine softens at the end of the palate, allow more buttery notes to come forward. Expect papaya, tangerine, rich Gala apples to appear after the acids have calmed down. Pair this with fish that have some fat to them such as grilled salmon. Absolutely natural marriage. Also consider veal with roasted chestnuts and cream reduction - seems odd, but both would bring brilliant notes from this richly structured wine.