Showing posts with label Cedar Creek winery. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cedar Creek winery. Show all posts

Thursday, September 18, 2014

COLOR: BC wine tasting at Canada Place, Sept 2014

  http://www.winebc.org


It's always a good afternoon when I get to meet with friends, and how much better could it be than meeting those self-same friends in the hallowed halls of Canada Place with a banquet hall full of BC wine, artisanal cheese and handcrafted chocolate?

Simple answer: it doesn't!

the unfatigueable Michael Bartier
the unfatigueable Michael Bartier
Yesterday I was fortunate enough to sample through the Fall releases from some of the best wineries in our little corner of the winemaking world; ripe Viognier, lip-smacking Sauvignon Blanc, elegant Chardonnay... the list goes on. And through it all I was  welcomed with warm smiles (like Michael Bartier's).

It was too short a time for such a dizzying array and by the end of the afternoon I found myself more then a little chagrined; what had I missed?! There were still tables I hadn't even visited, much less made the time to speak with the viticulture masters ensconced there. But, as fate would have it, there was a terrific experience waiting for me to wrap things up... a quick interview with Jak Mayer from Mayer Family Vineyards ( http://www.mfvwines.com/)

Jak has been involved in the BC wine industry for years now, and has brought international recognition with him: the likes of Jancis Robinson, Stephen Spurrier and Decanter Magazine know a bit more about BC's capacity to produce world-class wines because of the work of Jak Mayer and his dedicated team. Obviously, I had questions for this man that three hours of tasting BC wine had only accentuated.

Stay tuned for that article coming shortly but, since I've let the cat out of the bag, I'll share perhaps one of the most important subjects we touched on. I asked Jak:
"More developed appellations... are they important to the BC wine industry and will we see them in our lifetimes? Currently there are 5 appellations that cover an area larger than France: can we progress to sub-appellations? Mayer Family Vineyards certainly takes care to put the name of the individual vineyards on its labels!"

JAK MEYER
"Yes, they are important - but not the most important thing that we in BC need to focus on. Let's be honest; most wineries here simply don't know enough about their land to even begin a sub-appellation process. People are still trying to figure out what grows best where and that process takes time. Nothing can change that. But what we can do is recognize that with such a (relatively) small growing area and expensive land, bulk wines are not the future of BC. We as a collective need to show the world our quality - not quantity."

** British Columbia is larger in square acres then France and Germany together, though it has total area of planted vineyards at approximately 10,000 acres/4,000 HA compared to France at 850,000 HA**
And in a heartbeat, I understood what had happened for me that afternoon: I had witnessed yet another level of quality being presented by BC winemakers. Sauvignon Blanc on the same level as some of the best work in the Leyda region of Chile, intricately developed Chardonnay to rival California or Burgundy, sparkling Blanc-de-Noirs that dollar-for-dollar are easily equal to the sublimely quaffable products of Champagne.

If the rest of the wine-world could be characterized as Goliath then BC can start to be seen as David; for this speck on the northernmost tip of the grape-growing map is showcasing time and time again wines that match the efforts of much "mightier" magnates. If you haven't yet tried wine from this region, small wonder; Algeria produces more wine the BC does. But your search may yield great rewards my friends... enjoy the slideshow!
http://www.cinco.ly/~A4IAZ8LMrhkj


Many thanks to the Wine BC and to the innumerable wineries, winemakers and merchants who took the time and expense to put together a brilliant afternoon.

As always you can find more recipes, free wine reviews and my notes
on premium distillates and cigars:
on Twitter @AStudentofWine



Saturday, November 23, 2013

The #WineTastingCircle of Vancouver: BC Syrah compared

A friend and winemaker called me a few weeks ago and asked if I would try his unreleased 2011 Syrah (from BC) and let him know my thoughts.

I have to say, it's a good job that affords one phone calls like that on a regular basis! So of course I generously offered that my taste-buds were up to the task but then the winemaker zealously offered the 2010 Syrah as well; so that I could make an informed conclusion as to the wines' development.

My day was getting better and better, for that was when I remembered that one of his neighbors had also sent me his 2010 and 2011 Syrah. Four bottles is too much for even I to drink on my own, and so I began to drum-up a list of potential reprobates who would come and swill with me in some shady den of iniquity.
Then genius hit: I had always wanted to sit and compare these BC Syrah/Shiraz versus their counterparts from around the world. Well, "if you build it - they will come", and so I got on the phone right then and there and started beating the bushes for support for my little tasting.

First a trickle, then a torrent, of Syrah and Shiraz from every corner of the importer world came washing over my desk like a peppery-Tsunami. By the time I got in my car and drove to UVA winebar (www.uvawinebar.ca/) we had accumulated 16 wines. One writer looked at the assembled throng (? flock? gaggle? herd?) of bottles and simply stated "You got a little carried away." I smiled nervously, wrapped them all in paper bags until even I forgot which was which, and we got down to the business we had gathered for: ascertaining what level of Syrah BC was producing when compared side-by-side, blind, versus some of the most experienced producers in the world.

THE CRITERIA

  • single varietal Syrah
  • most recent vintage (85% of wines were 2009,2010 or 2011)
  • priced between $30 and $50 CAD (in the BC market)

THE PARTICIPANTS

  1. Painted Rock 2010, 2011 (BC) www.paintedrock.ca
  2. Black Hills 2010, 2011     (BC)    www.blackhillswinery.com
  3. Desert Hills 2008               (BC)   www.deserthills.ca
  4. Le Vieux Pin 2011             (BC) www.levieuxpin.ca
  5. Cedar Creek 2005              (BC)  www.cedarcreek.bc.ca
  6. Mission Hill SLC 2007     (BC)  www.missionhillwinery.com
  7. Cannonbah   2007                      (AUS)  canonbah.com.au
  8. Glaetzer "Bishop" 2012               (AUS)  www.glaetzer.com
  9. Tyrrell "Hunter Valley" 2010   (AUS) www.tyrrells.com.au
  10. Thorn-Clarke "Shotfire" 2010 (AUS) www.thornclarkewines.com.au
  11. Perez Cruz  "Maipo" 2006              (CHILE)  perezcruz.com
  12. Tanagra " Casablanca" 2006         (CHILE)  www.villard.cl
  13. Corralillo "San Antonio" 2010    (CHILE) matetic.com
  14. Altico  "Jumilla" 2011  (SPAIN)  www.carchelo.com
We swirled, we sipped, we spit, we debated. All of these wines, some with more then one vintage - blind - in an hour. And through it all we all learnt a great deal. It was quite a surprise when the unveiling occurred! Indeed, the entire process was a learning one for us all, in the words of one attendee "I'm surprised. I'm surprised not just at the generosity of fruit in all of the wines, but that even I - who have lived in BC for years, cannot tell which are the BC wines."

Here are the top three wines, in order. Scores are approximations and an average.

canonbah 2007 shiraz AUS

1. Canonbah drought reserve, 92/93 points

From the Western Plains of Australia, picked at a yield of 1 ton per HA and only in years of drought, this wine sings of refined elegance and decidedly masculine in it's approach. Imagine a Syrah that drinks much the same way that James Bond looks when played by Daniel Craig; muscular yet refined, intense yet sophisticated. This was a wine that categorically impressed everyone on the panel. Only one person guessed where it was from and for the rest of us, we were so delighted by it's concentration, clean mineral-tones, heavily spiced-musky aromas and pungent earthiness that I don't think we cared. This is truly World-Class and well worth the $50 (SPEC) in BC.


glaetzer Bishop shiraz 2012


2. Glaetzer's "Bishop", 92 points

Precision shone through every sip, every tendril of aroma that slipped up from the bottle. So bright, so refreshing was this wine that more then one person commented (when tasted blind) that it must surely be a New World wine, and obviously cool-climate. We unanimously voted this wine second place, and by a narrow margin. Capable of many years of aging, there is also a great deal of development left. I would personally love to taste a bottle with 10 years on it and see how the fresh notes integrate with dark berries, leather and spice.

LeVieuxPin -Syrah-Cuvee-Violette-2011-F

3. Le Vieux Pin, 91+/92 points

If the Canonbah was the epitome of masculine elegance, then Le Vieux Pin is the essence of feminine. A hedonistic plethora of floral, musky, ripe red berry tones not only danced from the glass when poured, but continued to evolve for the entire time we had the bottle open. Stunningly fresh yet balanced acids, fine and well integrated tannin,  full concentration of flavors that evolved as well. Utterly delightful and well-worth cellaring.



Honorable mention must be made to the exquisite 2005 Cedar Creek Syrah which was, upon release years ago, rated the best wine in Canada. Now with several years in a well-attended cellar it has evolved into a graceful example of how the varietal can age; with warm raisin aromas and sweet buttery tones, the acids still fresh and integrated, the tannin utterly refined. A graceful palate, everyone was captivated and would have ranked as our number 4 choice for the evening.

And perhaps this was what I had been looking for; a sign of validation that though BC is a small wine region (Algeria produces more wine then BC), we are producing quality. Some of the results were truly brow-raising, and many of the tasters walked away with a greater appreciation for the dynamic work happening "Down Under". Truly, Australia Syrah/Shiraz is not the same heavily-oaked, jammy-berry-laden, high-alcohol beverage that it once may have been... but by the same token, as the wine-industry has evolved over the past decade, BC wines have evolved no less.

And as we dragged our weary-palates towards the door, scores had become less important then process. More important still was the feeling that we perhaps understood a little better the direction our home-grown winemakers were going. Sticking to their instincts, following their own sense of what their land wants to express, I cannot help but believe that when our vines have a few more years on them - I will be reading Australian and Chilean writers talking about how well their Syrah is comparing to BC.

Many thanks not only to the wineries, but to the agents who graciously donated their time and sample bottles:
www.renaissancewine.ca : Desert Hills, Thorn-Clarke
www.freehousewine.com : Glaetzer, Black Hills
www.markanthonywinemerchants.com : Mission Hills, Tyrrell

As always, I welcome your comments here - or on Twitter @AStudentofWine

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Monday, March 28, 2011

Cedar Creek "Platinum Reserve" Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley VQA

Everything worthwhile in life is a gamble. Everything worth that gamble, worth that risk, is worth working for and work you must if you want to reap the rewards.

   The sentiment is encapsulated by Cedar Creek winery and it's proprietor, Senator Ross Fitzpatrick. The senator bought the winery in 1986; a time in BC winemaking when the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) was threatening to swallow the infant wine industry in the Okanagan.


View at Greta Ranch, part of Cedar Creek Winery

   True enough, grapes had been planted in the Okanagan Valley (VQA) since the late 1800's in some cases, but the industry was modest to say the least, and quality was... sporadic. The senator was born and raised in the Okanagan, though his work had taken him far from home. I imagine that it was during those travels that he developed an appreciation for the magic that the grape can carry with it. It was a belief in that magic that brought him back to the place he was raised, and an incurable desire to create the same magic at home.

   Since then, Cedar Creek winery has replanted hybrid vines with vitus vinifera, turned a basement cellar into "state-of-the-art" facilities, and brought many awards to their shelves including twice being named Canada's Winery of the Year. It is the adherence to quality with the "temperance of patience and perseverance" which has lead them down the road of success.

   How do I know that Cedar Creek is living it's words and not just mouthing pleasant platitudes? As of 2010 they are separately fermenting separate blocks of Pinot Noir! Perhaps that isn't a revolutionary tactic, but it is most certainly a mark of dedication and shows that Cedar Creek's winemaker Darryl Brooker is willing to put in the extra time and effort to achieve superior results. But did the work pay off?

Cedar Creek "Platinum Reserve" 2007 Pinot Noir
Okanagan Valley VQA, British Columbia, Canada
13.9% ABV, $38 CAD    ** EXCELLENT VALUE **
SOIL       clay, loam and some sandy soil
AGED        17 months in 100% French oak
  • visual:   clean; moderate ruby/garnet core with substantial cherry-brick rim
  • nose:    clean; moderately intense and developed bouquet of red and black cherries, black raspberries, black currant (cassis), old worn leather, light Christmas spices at the end such as nutmeg and clove, soft layers of dried flowers
  • palate:    clean; dry, moderate+ (red currant) acids, moderate+ (slightly grippy) tannins, moderate alcohol, light body, moderately intense and developed flavors mimicking the nose; red and black raspberry and cherry, old worn leather, light vanilla nuances, dried flowers, black irises and roses, an almost buckwheat honey quality. Excellent balance and structure, long finish on the palate
  • conclusion:   Stunning wine and well worth the money. I'm not used to BC Pinot Noir that keeps for 5 years or longer, and this wine will cellar well until 2013 I have no doubt... excellent concentration of flavor still, crisp acids and lively tannin structure
  • PAIRINGS:   Firstly do yourself a favor and please decant a minimum of one hour. At first I wanted just a simple turkey dinner with this, then found myself moving to smoked pork loin as it opened up. After an hour there was so much development on the palate that I wanted - was craving -a classic Steak Tartare; the beef plays off the tannins, the acids play off the fat. Roast some elephant garlic (softer, more subtle) to rub into the crostini you use and that too will invigorate the Pinot Noir
    Senator Ross Fitzpatrick and his son Gordon have a mantra for Cedar Creek Winery:
Respect the land, honour tradition, pursue perfection.
   Apparently, they have succeeded.


Senator Ross Fitzpatrick and son Gordon

As always, I look forward to any questions or comments.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!