Showing posts with label world-class wine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label world-class wine. Show all posts

Friday, February 21, 2014

to my son Adam on the day he was born: 1968 Marcel Trepout Armagnac

Dear Adam,
 today I watched you being brought into the light of day.
I held your mother's hand, the two of us utterly spent by long sleepless nights and too much worrying. But I held her hand in that operating theatre, managing a wane grin under the surgical mask, and promised her with my eyes that everything was going to be ok. It was a hope, a prayer, and I dreaded that I was making a promise I couldn't keep.
Adam 3 hours old
But out you came, "safe and sound" as your older sister likes to sing. You won't know that song - it will be many many years until you read this letter and by then much will have been forgotten... Canada won Gold today at the Sochi Olympics, but you may never read about it: how the Women's Hockey team fueled national pride and a curler carved a niche for herself in history. You may, however, hear more then once about how your grandpa Pecora drove 13 hours through the snow, across the high mountain passes, so that he could see you today.
One of the few times I've ever seen that man moved to silence. Because you were so still, so peaceful, and so very beautiful if you don't mind your Dad being effusive. But how could I not be? Your older sister is the sparkle in my eye, and the very breath of life, but today I found my heart breaking because it had split to make room for even more Love. I tell you truthfully son, that you will never know the boundaries of your heart until you have children and only then will you learn that there are no boundaries when it comes to Love. There is only more.
And now the point of this letter: to give you a gift on this, your very first birthday. The gift I choose is, as my father would say, the most dangerous of all gifts: advice. And as is my want, the advice comes in the form of a parable or a story, about wine - or in this case a spirit.

Marcel Trepout 1968 Armagnac

Bas-Armagnac, France

94+ points

... liquid gold in my glass, like amber with bronze highlights1968 MarcelTrepout
... aromas that blend and intertwine so seductively as to make the word "bouquet" utterly inept: salt-water toffee, white truffle shavings, a cacophony of Summer flowers melding into potpourri with fresh peaches/nectarines/pears and hints of wild thyme/bay leaf/sage/lavender growing on the hills
... on the palate lively acids dance across the palate in a bewildering pattern of tap/jazz/ballet, the myriad of aromas translating with precision to this new medium. I can taste the pears ripening nearby, and the wild herbs in the garden. I can sense the rich minerality in the soil and the sheer weight of the years it spent in barrel whilst it transformed from simple fortified spirit to sublime creature.
You see Adam, much of life can be compared to how you choose what you drink and thus my advice (advice I follow myself, which is a rarity) is drink half as much but twice as good... Drinking cheap wines and spirits to excess is like doing anything to excess: temporarily satisfying, it will leave a lasting impression on you and those you are with that is anything but positive.
I bought this bottle of Armagnac in 2008, or maybe 2009. I've held onto it for those five years plus, rationing it out to moments of triumph and only the best of friends. It's been more then a treat to me, it's been a celebration and as your grandpa Gillese taught me "Don't save your special bottles for special occasions, use them - to create special occasions!"
With this bottle I celebrated your mother agreeing to be my wife, I cherished the start of my new writing career and raised a glass when we found out that we were expecting your sister: our first child. And now I'm polishing it off with the feeling of your tiny hand still clutching my finger as you slept on my chest and I'm thanking god for all the riches in my life. Was it worth the price? The extra cost? Couldn't I have appreciated the moments just as much without the brandy?
Perhaps, but then again, perhaps not. Not all people are the same and I don't claim to be most people: I don't eat McDonald's, I don't drink Coke and I don't celebrate life with water. I celebrate with wine because wine, to me, is a celebration of life in itself.
Armagnac isn't as prestigious as Cognac; for every 6 bottles of Armagnac sold, 100 bottles of the other are. It's far more fashionable to buy Cognac, I know that. But wouldn't I be just the same then as those people who eat McDonald's and drink Coke? Isn't it preferable to do our own research, come to our own conclusions, and have our own sense of taste? Armagnac is one of the oldest centres for spirit production in Europe and was making brandy 200 years before Cognac was and you know that I believe "practice makes perfect".
Half as much, twice as good.
I like that I can stand behind the producers of Armagnac; small, family-run businesses that are passed down generation to generation with a genuine appreciation for the land. Quality-control isn't a motto here, it's a way of life that has ingrained itself into the collective psyche... you'll sense it in the markets and feel it when you walk into a patissiere and walk out with a fresh baguette. In some cultures, quality is still more highly prized then quantity and this is one of them.
If I were to make brandy, I would want - I would need to make something that I would be proud of. It's no less when I'm drinking: I'ld much rather one glass of something brilliant then two glass of mediocrity that leave a hollow feeling and make me hungry for more. Don't kiss two girls! I waited a long time to marry so that I could marry the most beautiful, the strongest, the most self-less woman I had ever met. Don't waste your time in dead-end jobs where you sell your soul each time you punch the clock! Let yourself work hard at your passion... when the quality is there, the money will come. I promise you!
This is a fleet and fragile thing we call life, Adam. Far too short to do anything but choose the best men you know as your friends, find a woman who makes your heart sing and never be too scared to tell her how you feel, and, when you drink - drink well!

Dad.

Monday, April 15, 2013

Haywire Gamay Noir rose VS BS rose


A friend and colleague passed me a couple of bottles of rosé the other day...

It sounds like the start of a "wine-geek" joke right? No - seriously, she passed me these two bottles of rosé and at the time I almost thought she was joking! You have to understand, Vancouver in March is a dismal sight most days: only a few degrees above zero Celsius (translated to Fahrenheit is about 50), pouring rain, winds blustering either off the Bay or down from the local mountains that are still covered in snow.

And she gives me rosé.

But there's more to the story! It seems two winemaker colleagues/rivals have set up a bit of a challenge against each other, with the public as both accomplices and judges... Enter the contenders for Best Rosé of the Bunch:

in the left corner, weighing in at a hefty 13.7% ABV is the Haywire Gamay Noir Rosé ,

and in the right corner dancing lightly at 13.4% is the BIG BS!
(That's Bartier Scholefield Rosé to you my friends)

These scrappy wines, blushing with the bloom of youth (unlike their winemakers) promised tight competition as soon as I opened the bottles. I did my due diligence, and made my way through the murky waters of on-line research. In doing so I discovered that not only did these gifted (special?) winemakers want "we the people" to judge the battle, but wanted our response in verse.

In verse? This joke just gets more and more odd...

A battle between two sibling rosé, the outcome judged by the public - in verse.


Well there once was a wine from Haywire
  who liked to spend nights...
err...
... nothing rhymes with Haywire.

Truth be told, when I actually got around to tasting the wines the weather had changed; the air had warmed by 10 degrees or so, the skies had opened to allow glorious sunlight to bathe my deck and the wind had stopped blustering (unlike Scholefield) and become a gentle murmur. In short, I had reached my ideal rosé time. And I was reminded of the many things that Spring brings; green grass growing, the scent of new flowers, my wife's allergies, and love. And if one thinks of love, one must think of Shakespeare. And when I thought of Shakespeare I knew I'd found my response to these "Two Gentlemen of Okanagan"


But soft! What light through yonder bottle breaks?
  It is the East, and BS is the sun.
Arise, fair sun, and kill Haywire's envious moon
  who is already sick and pale with grief ,
that thou, her maid, are more fair then she:
  Be not her maid, since Haywire is envious (and rightfully so)
Her vestal livery is but pale salmon to your rose,
  And none but fools do wear it; cast it off.
It is my BS. Oh, it is my love!
  Oh that Michael Bartier knew it were!
He speaks and yet says nothing - no - that's David, what of that?
   The wine discourses, I will answer,
I am too bold - the wine speaks not to me:
  Two of the fairest stars in all Heaven (the Okanagan Valley DVA)
Having some business in the wine business, do entreat my eyes
  to sparkle at their mischief 'til new bottles can be opened.
With gladdened heart I'll rest awhile
and watch two loves battle for mine affections;
in the end, 'tis I and my friends who come out on top!


2010 Haywire Gamay Noir rosé
Okanagan Valley VQA
91 points
  • visual:   clear; pale salmon amber core with watery rim, silver highlights
  • nose:   clean; medium+ youthful and developing aromas; slightly spicy earth tones, warm berry compote, lively floral notes reminiscent of great Viognier, crisp mineral undercurrant
  • palate:   clean; dry, medium+ raspberry/currant acid, light+ to medium body, medium+ alcohol (13.7%), medium+ intense youthful and developing flavors that mimick well the bouquet; the minerality sings with precision and is followed by a bountiful floral and fruit driven palate. Excellent balance and structure, medium+ length
  • conclusion:   truly a world-class rose, this wine is capable of holding it's own for several years but will not improve. Enjoy 2013-2016/7 
  • FOOD PAIRINGS:   floral toned wine with lively acids and great structure are built for food, and in many people's opinion - seafood. But consider this flight of whimsy: 7-hour braised rabbit (or poultry for the less adventurous) with raz-el-hanout on fresh thyme infused quinoa, steamed kale tossed with roast chestnut butter and apricot glazed garden-carrots... as I said.. adventurous, but with purpose! Rabbit carries little flavor of it's own, but will cosy to Arabic spicy blends and that spice will enhance the natural spice in the wine. The fresh thyme does the same but through contrast. The kale cleans the palate whilst the quinoa and chestnut open the door to savory tones and the apricot enhances the floral. A hint of butter will off-set the medium acids - this wine begs not to be paired with cream which will seem cumbersome (also consider Italian pairings like tuna in olive oil!)


2010 Bartier-Scholefield rosé
Okanagan Valley VQA
92 points
  • visual:   clear; medium sanguine or "bleeding" rose core... like a poached peach. Watery rim with copper highlights
  • nose:    clean; medium intensity developing aromas of warm dusty earth, clay pottery, tight minerality, dry herbal tea, white flowers
  • palate:   clean; dry, medium+ to full (tight) red and black currant acid, medium- body, medium alcohol (13.4%), medium + intense and developing flavors that mimick the nose... immediate focus is drawn to the very precise minerality and tight young berry tones that dominate, warm earth is a background that develops on a consistent palate with a soft floral finish. Truly excellent balance and structure with long length
  • conclusion:   a stunning wine that is just coming into it's own; concentration, acidity, length, structure - a wine to enjoy for years! Savor 2013-2018 and possibly beyond
  • FOOD PAIRING:    big, bold, distinct flavors mean that I could pair this will very different fare then the previous wine. I would use this much like the Chateau Mussar rose; a heavily seasoned gigot d'agneau (leg of lamb) roast over wood with charred eggplant caviar dipping sauce, steamed collard greens (or beet tops), fried flat-bread and goat's milk feta. This wine has the structure and dimension to require fully intense food flavors to match - this will take some of the richest food you can imagine and bring it into balance. Gracefully.

And so all joking to one side, truly these two wines on their own are enough to open the eyes of the consumer. If you've said before that great rosé only comes from Tavel, Provence, Spain, Chile... then you need to try these.

If you've said that rosé is only for the hottest days of Summer, then you need to try these.

And if you've already found yourself saying to the computer screen "But I don't even like rosé!" then you simply must try these. For the price, you will open a new door in the expression of wine and the expression of BC.

How do I know this? Because I said all of these things before trying these wines. And now? Now I can't wait to try my next bottle.... there's a reason the blog is called "A Student of Wine" my friends!

As always, I welcome your comments and questions.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Saturday, June 5, 2010

Barolo!

There is a place, in the low hills of Piedmonte, where the Barbaresco grapes make way for the "Wine of Kings, the King of Wines: Barolo"
Barolo actually has a madly erratic history... it used to be a sweet wine until the late 1800's when the winemakers in the region hired one of the best winemakers of the time from France. You see, Nebbiolo (the grape from which Barolo springs) is picked very late in the year - October. By the time winemakers are picking Barolo, the winemakers down the valley (about 150-200 meters down) are already bottling their Barbaresco! This means that the sugars haven't had a chance to ferment to dryness, meaning a sweet wine. In comes the Frenchman who figures out a way to ferment in the cellar, and voila - now a dry Barolo.
2004 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato, Piedmonte, Italy $120
  • rich cherry/ruby centre with a pronounced rim of orange & brick
  • deep, unctuous bouquet starting with highlights of leather, baie rouges include cherries and plum, hillside flowers (irises predominate), chalky soil with notes of minerality
  • moderate acids, full tannins, full flavors starting with the baie rouges; red currants hit the palate quickly, followed by plums, the calcareous terroir comes in mid palate and stays and stays, evolving with the depth of the tannins from the oaking and the leather that oaking gives

Wow! What to say? This wine has received from 93 to 96 points from a plethora of wine gurus. It placed 6th in the top 100 wines of Italy for 2008. But the best part - the best? This wine hasn't peaked yet. Not even close... give it 5 years the revisit & be prepared to taste a glass of divinity.

www.piocesare.it