Lustau Dry Amontillado, Los Arcos Sherry

I didn't think that I would be writing an article about sherry production, but how does one write about sherry without talking about production?

   The world of sherry is a new an exciting one to me, being from Western Canada. Sherry consumption (such little as there is) is usually reserved for old matriarchs who sip contentedly during Christmas on a dram of Harvey's Bristol Cream. Far be it (very far indeed) for me to put forward my much maligned notions on cream sherry, but suffice it to say that I have never been, nor expected myself to become, a sherry drinker.

   At least, not until I myself come a matriarch, which I consider most unlikely.

   Lo and behold, "the times they are a'changin". I have consumed sherry, willingly, and enjoyed it! I had an upcoming lecture and, as always, fear of being embarrassed by my lack of knowledge made me pick up a few bottles at my local BC Liquor Store (http://www.bcliquorstores.com/).

   First on the hit-parade was a little number known as a dry Amontillado, and here is when I must say a little something about sherry production.



Lustau casks



   Firstly, sherry is made using a method of production known as the solera-system. This is a system by which three layers of large barrels are stacked on top of each other. The top layer is the youngest aged sherry, the bottom layer is the eldest. Each bodega or winery has it's own system, but in general every 4 months to 2 years the bodega will move about 15% of the wine down to the next level. The wine then takes on the characteristics of the older wine in the barrel, and magic is made. When the sherry is ready to move on from the bottom level, it's time to put the magic in a bottle.

   An important part of the magic however, lies inside of the sherry casks themselves. Sherry comes from a very moist part of Spain... yeasts and molds are abundant thankfully. I say "thankfully" because one of those yeasts lives inside of the sherry casks. It is responsible, in large part, to giving fine sherry it's distinctive flavors and aromas. Amontillado starts it's life with that flor or yeast, but then the flor dies and what is left behind begins to oxidize in a completely beautiful way.





Lustau reserva Dry Amontillado, Los Arcos Sherry

Jerez de la Frontera, Jerez D.O., Spain

http://www.emilio-lustau.com/

18.5% ABV, $15 (375 ml)    **Very Good Value**

• visual:   clean; moderate+ caramel core with slight watery rim
• nose:   clean; moderate+ intense developed aromas of toasted almonds, soft wildflowers in the background, rich sea salt, raw walnuts
• palate:   clean; ultra-dry, moderate+ (young crabapple) acids, moderate+ ABV, moderate+ body, moderate+ intense developed flavors of lemon and yellow grapefruit zest, toasted and raw almonds and walnuts, slight white pepper finish, sea salt, light caramel nuances. Very good balance and structure, excellent finish (for the price)
• conclusion:   Great value for the money. Enjoy now - cellaring will have no effect
• PAIRINGS:   popular opinion is to serve this with a beef consume. While I can envision the wisdom of this, I would add some heirloom tomato and fresh pasta... but please, enjoy this wine in the warmth! This is not a wine made for cold weather, at least, not for an Irishman like myself

   So I learned a little something, tried something new, and still got to prepare for my lecture. Sherry really is something special, and has it's own type of magic in the fermentation world. Most sherries are aged for years before they make it to market, and I have in the past been reluctant to give a few moments to taste a new sherry instead of returning to a wine I know. Who am I to be so reluctant with a few moments when someone has dedicated years for my eonological pleasure?



Lustau bodega in Jerez de la Frontera



As always, I welcome your questions and comments.

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!

Ron Matusalem, 15-year Gran Reserva

The tale of a family can almost always be counted on to be filled with mystery, intrigue and a litany of interesting characters. Rare is the family for whom this is more true then the family Alvarez who own, and have successfully run, the Matusalem & Co. distillery ( http://www.matusalem.com/ ).

     Dr. Claudio Alvarez, current owner, can trace his roots directly to his great-grandfather who started the company in 1872 with his brother and one other partner after they emigrated from Spain to Santiago, Cuba. Some internet research says that Matusalem was first distilled in Cuba as far back as 1792 but that is not verified by the company website. Dr Alvarez has now brought his son on board with the company, to continue a family tradition that they have worked zealously for through war, dictatorship and over a century of economic flux. Did you know that at one point (the 1940's), Matusalem was over 50% of the Cuban rum market?

     Ron Matusalem Gran Reserva is made using the solera system which is used primarily for the production of Sherry, and is made (much like cognac) by rules which state that in the 12-year label, 12 year old rums are the youngest age of rum in your bottle... the casks will be stacked on top of each other (on their side) 4 layers high. Every three years, a portion of the bottom cask is bottled and sold. At that point, a portion of the cask (barrique in French) above it is syphoned off and added to the cask below it (to thus refill it to its original level). The top-most cask is topped with new rum, and the process continues.

     Sounds like alot of work? It is, and there are even mathematical formulas to calculate rate of loss from casks per year, average age of rum per cask, etc. The result? Layers upon layers of flavor and bouquet. But I digress.

Ron Matusalem, 12-year Gran Reserva,

Dominican Republic

$60 CAN (BC), $35 US, 30 Euro (Western Europe)

Best of Class & Double-Gold at 2008 San Fransisco Spirit Competition

• very light caramel colors, hardly any orange/amber
• fully intense nose; oak is hitting me immediately... none of the aromas I usually associate with rums. I like a sweeter style of rum (Pyrat for example) and this has only the softest whispers of vanilla and caramel in the background. Front and center I find the oak, yes, and a myriad of citrus and florals (Meyer lemon, some thyme or Bay leaf, red currants also come into play for me) - but it is the nuances of oak that dominate for me
• an interesting palate: full flavored, the oak comes in with an easy drinking robust toasted almond flavor... lightly charred barrels I am assuming. Citrus is still there as well, and that slightly tart currant-like backdrop. Smooth finish, I'm drinking this sans ice or water, and feel the rum isn't suffering from any lack

     I feel like this is a Scotch drinkers rum; by which I mean, it is very well crafted, with alot of nuance that begs to be discovered (not hidden in cola and ice). I have just finished my first bottle of Ron Matusalem Gran Reserva, and never once did I feel the need to "water it down a little". It has marvellous balance on its own, and at room temperature, which I feel is a mark of master distilling. Well worth the money!

CIN CIN! SLAINTE!