Showing posts with label Whiskey. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Whiskey. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 18, 2013

After-Dark Whiskey, Gluten-Free

http://www.distillerspride.com/

A few weeks ago, a friend and colleague who manages one of the best private liquor stores in the Lower Mainland of BC sent me a quick email. It read:

"Kristof, I have a sample of whiskey for you."

I responded to Crystal (the person in question) "Crystal, many thanks, but I'm allergic to whiskey (being a celiac). That's besides the fact that I live a 90-minute drive from your store."

This was followed by a subsequent email of

"It's gluten-free."

...
...
...

"I'm on my way."

Ok - I must admit to be more then a little dubious. In my heyday - long before I knew that drinking it was creating an allergic reaction, I was a loyal whisk(e)y drinker. Scotch, Irish-Whiskey, Bourbon... ah the joys of pot-distilled grain alcohol~! I had my preferences; from Tullamore Dew with my pint of Harp, to an Oban or Glenmorangie to pair with a cigar, to Booker's "Old Rare" just for sippin'

So, then, gluten-free?? I couldn't imagine how it could be done, much less done well - but I was keen to try. I almost stayed within the speed-limits as I chased this idea up to Edgemont Village and the oh-so-special den of iniquity there-in. I wandered into the store ( http://edgemontliquor.com/ ) and was confronted by walls of world-class wines and spirits reaching to the heavens (or at least 12'...) "Help.." I pleaded

Thank goodness Crystal has procured not only great products, but great people to share their knowledge as well. A kind man pulled out the last few drops from the sample bottle, poured it into a proper spirit glass (many thanks - it does make a difference), and left me in peace to analyze....

I was flummoxed! My poor palate, which hadn't had a sip of whiskey in about 5 years, was now being inundated with nuanced flavors and aromas unlike any other. It was soft on the nose, needing some coaxing, but opened on the palate... well... you can read the review later!

So I called the importer that very day, told him that I had to write about this, and arranged to receive a sample bottle (a perk of the trade). And then - then I went to work!

On ice, straight up, chilled bottle, room temp, with water, with soda, etc etc etc. Oh it's a hard life being a writer! But it occurred to me, doing all of my little experiments, that for all that I knew many flavors of whiskey - I don't actually know much about whiskey itself. And so I did some research:

I knew the basics: that in Western Europe it's considered to have been created by the Celts long before the first recorded distillations in the 14th century.... no, by that time the water of life as it was known had been around for centuries. But what of it? And what's really changed since then?

Well several components are known to truly create flavor in Whisk(e)y: the still, the water, the malt and the maturation. Let's examine them more closely.

THE STILL
I know a fellow, great guy, who is madly passionate about single-malts. He and I have bantered over the years and I'm proud to be able to call him a friend. For his day-job he's currently head barman at a prosperous piece of plank on Granville Street, slinging pints to some of the cities finest. By night he's building his own cider-house and is set to change the world of cider/cyder one apple at a time :)

Well he and I have talked about stills and he helped me to understand that column-stills deliver fast results and continuous production. The downside? Lack of flavor... purists (pardon the play on words) much prefer the older style of pot-still which has been used for centuries. These stills leave a little bit of flavor behind; a little impurity. This is what most whiskey lovers would say produces the best quality, the best flavored spirits.

THE WATER
Most world-class businesses understand that it takes great components to create a terrific end product. In Scotland, distilleries guard fiercely the wells, springs, creeks and glens from whence their magical water flows. There's even a vodka company that brags about melting icebergs for their spirit! This is a common theme in the finest producers of beverages.

THE MALT
Just as every distillery has it's own vista, so too it looks onto a different land. It's from this land that distilleries find their grain to toast and the where-withal to toast it. For example, Highland distilleries still burn peat to toast the malt. The result? Very smokey malt, hence smokey flavors in the distillate.

THE MATURATION
And then there's the last piece of the puzzle. A spirit, you see, doesn't evolve (arguably) as it ages in bottle. Most experts agree whole-heartedly that spirits only develop as they age in cask. The biggest revolution in the world of Whisk(e)y may be in this last crucial step!

In days of yore, maturation was only in French or American oak barrels (to the best of my knowledge). These days? Sherry casks, wine casks, port casks, rum casks... you name it and there's probably a distiller somewhere who it toying with how to extract flavors from another type of barrel. All of these previous residents (of the barrel) have left behind something of themselves - and they add that bit of themselves to the Whisk(e)y.

I for one was especially fond of the Glenmorangie when they developed their Sherry cask finish; slightly floral, almondy, toasty notes added great dimension to one of my all-time favorite spirits.

And so that brings us to the fellow in question, the star of today's article: After Dark gluten-free whisky from Radico Khaitan Ltd of Rampur, India ( http://www.radicokhaitan.com/after_dark_premium.html ). Their importer into Canada is Distiller's Pride ( http://www.distillerspride.com/ ) and you can read more about their products on the website.

After Dark
$40 (BC)
91+ points
Silver Medal at the Monde Selection Quality Award 2011

*adding a few drops of water opens the palate and aromas immensely, and was done for the purpose of the following notes

  • visual:   clear; medium golden-amber core, copper highlights
  • nose:   clean; medium+ spicy chili, honey, ripe stonefruit, white flowers, musky background, cedar tones
  • palate:   clean; fully intense flavors that are perfectly in-sync with the aromas; a heady concentration of honeyed floral tones, soft stonefruit glazed with Thai chili honey and a truly rich woodsy/musky backdrop. Excellently crafted, this is superb at room temperature!
  • conclusion:   a world-class spirit; to me, one of the great markers of any spirit is: Can I enjoy it straight, and at room temperature. This spirit can do both. I found that a few drops of water really does open the nose and palate immensely, and would recommend this to anyone purchasing a bottle.
  • pairing:   tonight I'm going with the Don Lino cigar of Dominican Republic... rich mocha-tones will enjoy and balance the spice in the Whisky!

And so, a delightful end to many trials and experiments with several guest judges in my home... all agreed that the spirit was immaculately crafted - more Speyside in it's approach then Highland, it must be judged on it's own merits. I am glad to be shown that the world is changing, and a door that was once closed to me - and to millions of others - is now re-opened. But one last word~!

This is not just a Whisky for celiacs! When I think of the blended Scotch that we here in BC can purchase for the low $40's, I am reminded that the market is rather sparse. The quality of most is decent, if not great, and the flavors are good, if not fully developed... those are the Scotches we drink with an ice-cube, and on a Tuesday night, not a Friday with a good friend.

Do yourself a favor. Give this a try and if you really, sincerely, believe your blended Scotch of similar price is better - I'll buy the rest of the bottle from you and drink it myself. You doubt my word??? The proof - my friend - is in the glass!

As always, I welcome your thoughts and comments here or on Twitter @AStudentOfWine

CINCIN~!!!     SLAINTE~!!!     CHEERS~!!!


Friday, November 12, 2010

Robusto Cigars

Well well well...

A little something different perhaps? All this talk about rum had me itching for a good cigar, and so today I decided to treat myself! Cigar Aficionado Magazine ( http://www.cigaraficionado.com/ ) has ratings every month on cigars, new and old. When I popped by my local tobacconist (a lie - it was http://www.citycigarcompany.com/ on 4th ave) I mentioned that it was a trying day, and I deserved a little something special.

(City Cigars)
     So now I do something I've never done before, and write a little blog about the brilliant Romeo & Julieta "Wide Churchill" I smoked on the drive home. First let me say that Kevin, and all of the service staff at City Cigars, was more then helpful... from the tips he gave me on lighting a cigar with a small lighter as opposed to the torch I usually use, to offering to take a look at my small humidor next time I'm in the area. A true font of information, and a gentlemen! So, Kevin took it to heart when I said I needed a little treat on my rough day.

     "Well" says Kevin, "I've got just the ticket for you! A new gem from Romeo & Julieta that scored 93 points in the latest Cigar Aficionado."

     I'm not usually a sucker for points, but I am a sucker for passion. Kevin was damned passionate about this cigar & so I was easily sold. I took the cigar, and the magazine (which I never pass up an issue of, and have collected for years) and walked down the street to the local STARB***s for an Americano. The rest of my afternoon was a blissful drive in the afternoon Fall light with a great cigar & a decent cup of coffee. The "Blue Rodeo" cd was a heck of a good fit as the three of us (Cigar, Man, Coffee) made our way down the Barnet Highway on our way home.

Romeo & Julieta "Wide Churchill", Cuba
$28 CAD **Very Good Value**
  • Burn:     the burn started incredibly even, with beautifully rich smoke, a clean draw, and rich flavors right from the start
  • Aroma:   fully intense aromas of leather, extra dark chocolate (85%) & even a hint of musk (although I was wearing cologne)
  • Flavor:   fully intense flavors with no bitterness! Still the leather, and dark chocolate in layers, but also Brazil nut (seriously - I'm a chef & I swear I tasted Brazil nuts) and a rich undertone of dark espresso
  • PAIRS WITH:    here is what can make the cigar a marvel, or just a really lovely experience: I smoked this whilst drinking an Americano. Big mistake. This Robusto has layer upon layer of rich and developed flavors; it needs something it's equal to match it. My advice? This could easily be my mid-morning cigar (when I'm in Cuba) with a real espresso & a minimum 10-year old rum... think Cruzan, Santiago, even the reserve Diplomatico would suffice - but it needs a rich and complex rum. Don't spend almost $30 on a cigar, then spend $2 (per ounce) for your rum. Treat yourself! Buy a $50 bottle (minimum) and only open it on special occasions.
     This cigar was fantastic, and well worth the money. My only issue was half-way down, the damned thing started to burn un-evenly, and by the last 1/4 it was basically unsmokable. Pity- I would have smoked it down to the ring. This cigar, by-the-way, would be a brilliant match with many a single-malt Scotch (but beware - the peatiness may overwhelm the palate) and especially the finer Irish Whiskeys, where the sweetness will play off the Robusto flavors.

     So ends my first cigar review, and hopefully not the last!

CIN CIN!!   SLAINTE!!